Guide for G27 (and other wheels) configuration

[RasmusP]

February 2024 Update:
Please don't read this thread. I know Google will show it, but it's old and filled with partly wrong information from me.
Just use my LUT package instead:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/



-------------- Don't read this! --------------

Older edit: After almost everyone prefers the LUT-Configuration, I created a Lut-only Thread with all my LUTs attached in a zip-file in the Download-Area here at Racedepartment.
Have a look:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/

Original post:
Hello everyone,
I know there are a lot of settings and guides online for "the perfect settings" but after I spent about 30 hours searching and trying, I really found MY best settings.
They are a combination of different guides (but with the "GAMMA-option" in use) that I will name right now and first:

Really nice and complete Guide on Assetto Corsa Forum
Reddit Thread where my adventure began (and where I got the Link above)
FFB Deadzone Fix Logitech G27
Guide for LUT Generator (can't recommend it but helped me understanding)

EDIT: I thought the LUT was what gave me my perfect feeling BUT IT WAS THE TYPE=GAMMA, not a LUT so I rewrote that whole Guide:

EDIT2: I found out how to write a LUT yourself so I did it and the result is something similar to the gamma-setting BUT less compressed, smoother middle-transition and therefore BETTER! Here is the link to the post if you don't want to scroll down: LINK

TL: DR Lines:
1. Adjust InGame-settings and Profiler

2. Open the controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"
set MIN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001

3. open the assetto_corsa.ini:
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"
set ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7

4. open the ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"
set VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5, CURVE=%doesn't matter%

5. HAVE FUN

6. additional:
- Logitech Profiler:
- overall: 100
- spring: 0
- damper: 0
- untick center spring, NO combined pedals, 900° rotation, TICK "allow game to adjust settings"

- AC InGame:
- Gain: 50% [depends on your wheel but for my G27 it is 50%. 75-125% InCAR]
- Filter: 0
- Min Force: 4%
- kerb, road, slip: 0
- understeer: untick
- Steering Settings: gamma 1, filter 0, sensivity 0!!

For those who want a detailed guide:

After I read very very much about all seen and all hidden settings in Assetto Corsa, I tried everything out, but one of these things was always bothering me:

1. you have a huge dead zone
2. your wheel oszillates
3. deadzone ok but no smooth transition at center
4. just too much force

The solution for me was the GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini!
Combined with the dampening-setting, the Gyro-setting, the min_force and the Center_Boost!
Short version of what this settings do:
To get rid of the Deadzone you need to combine the very little center-boost with the min-force. But then you will have a little bump in the middle because they have a "hard cut" at zero-force.
If you enable the GAMMA-setting this hard-cut will be transformed into a curve, just like the FFB-Output from Assetto Corsa will get compressed to a curve where little forces are boosted and the high forces are lowered.
Here are a few pictures of that:

1. Wheelcheck Result:
2. How the AC-FFB has to be alternated:

3. All these settings combined:

So you get rid of the deadzone but don't get an oscillating wheel! [Plus you feel more details.]

The Settings in detail:
1. controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"

- Filter=0: This should eliminate FFB-spikes but for me it seems like it just kills little details but does not really smoothes out! So let it on 0!

- MIN_FF=0: That means, that the "zero force" is still zero force, theoretically it's THE setting to get rid of the deadzone BUT I experienced, that you need to get up to 17% for the G27 and then don't have a deadzone anymore but case 2.: your wheel oscillates.
If you go down to about 12% you have case 3.: the deadzone is still there, but little. Problem: it doesn't feel nice... 0 Force in the Deadzone and then BAM, FORCE.
My thought about that:
The "MIN FORCE" doesn't have a "Curve" for the lowest force. It just does a hard cut which ends up in my experienced results. (See Picture above: 3. combined)

- CENTER_BOOST_GAIN: In the Guide "FFB Deadzone Fix for Logitech G27 1.2" this setting is used.
Explanation: If you imagine the Wheel, the FFB begins at a little bit right and left from the center-> "deadzone". That is because the force that IS THERE, IN THE CENTER, is too low for your wheel.
This setting BOOSTS the FFB in the RANGE of "CENTER_BOOST_RANGE"

- CENTER_BOOST_RANGE: as mentioned, this is the range of the boost that applies on the FFB FROM THE CENTER. Theoretically you just need to "Boost the deadzone away". But this does not work, I tried EVERYTHING!! (combined with GAMMA this transforms to a "curve"!)

I combined this 3 settings in every possibility but you have always ONE problem: the "center transition" as in "you steer from left to right" gets a BUMP in the middle, because of the boost.
I tried to lower the boost, widen the range, give a little more MIN_FORCE. But nope, you always gets this unrealistic "center-bump". (so you need the GAMMA!)

I have to give the author much credit, it is a really nice setting but it's just not enough for me.

2. assetto_corsa.ini
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"

- FF_SKIP_STEPS=0: If set to 1, you get half of the FFB-Refresh-Rate. So if you have a decent hardware, go with 0! Some people get an error on servers because their CPU is too weak. Then go with 1. It doesn't make a HUGE difference, but the more FF-Inputs, the better, right?

- ENABLE_GYRO=1: Honestly, I don't understand this settings but it smoothens the wheel without taking away important informations!
If you read about that setting: It is for Direct Drive Wheels as the Logitech G27 (not belt drive like Thrustmaster for example) and interprets "the wheel as a Gyro on certain speeds".
If your wheel is a little bit "shaky" overall or oscillates: go with 1!

- DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0: This means, that the InGame dampening (a few versions ago there was a slider?!) is OFF, when the Engine says the damper to be zero. If you increase this settings, your dampening will ALWAYS BE ON, even if the engine does NOT give the input for it.

- DAMPER_GAIN=1.0: That is simple. If the engine gives the input to dampen the FFB-Signal, it is indeed dampened. For my G27 I like it on 0.7 but if your wheel feels a little "numb" you can lower or even deactivate it. I find my wheel too shaky when on 0.0!
Sidenote: ALWAYS USE THIS SETTINGS FOR DAMPENING, NOT THE LOGITECH PROFILER DAMPENING!!!


3. ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"

- Version=1: No idea, just leave it!

- TYPE=GAMMA: I don't know how it works exactly but it is THE setting that got me stunning! I drawed a Curve about how it feels for me and it makes sense but honestly: no idea...
Here is the picture:

- VALUE=0.5: Well in one guide the author tells you "it is on 1 at mine, no idea, just leave it" BUT IT IS IMPORTANT!
It determines how strong the FFB gets "compressed". So on 1.0 it does NOTHING, on 0.1 you feel absolutely no details, it's like ultra-power-steering.
For me about 0.5 is the optimum for having details but no deadzone.
THIS IS THE SETTING THAT ELIMINATES MY DEADZONE AND LET IT FEEL REAL!
What is important here: you have to lower the global FFB in order to have "normal forces". The lower the value, the lower your global FFB! If you put VALUE=0.1 and global FFB on 100% you get broken arms for sure...

- CURVE=%doesn't matter, not active%": Well this is just the settings to take the correct LUT. BUT: I don't use a LUT and I can't recommend it with the G27. Tried it and it was just awful!
IF you want to activate a LUT you have to change TYPE=LUT (thanks to Ross Garland for giving me that info!)


Conclusion:
I know that was a lot and I know it's not perfect but maybe it will help you with your settings and increase the fun you have with Assetto Corsa.
I switched over from Project Cars but was so mad with my wheel that I thought about buying another one. The Deadzone was so annoying but the graphics, sound and gameplay were better and I really wanted that game to get working!

This is just a wrap up from other people's posts and guides but I didn't find a guide here, where you don't need to login to the Assetto Corsa Forum or even there, where all these settings are packed up so you can just read it down and get your settings.
And most importantly: I nowhere found any mention of this GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini so alone for that setting I wrote that all down.

I made this post to give all searching souls another thing to try and hope this makes even a few people happy

Let me know if it helped you!

Kind Regards,
Rasmus

 

[Gaudin]

Had that rattling problem once, the logitech profiler set it's global settings by himself to 100% on everything, tuned down damper and springs to zero again, and all was fine - hope this helps

 

[RasmusP]

I just did everything, I followed all the steps, But it is extremely hard and vibrates in the center a lot

Sorry man I'm not on the computer and on my way to sleep now
Make sure that the value is =1.0 in the ff_post_process.ini.
Also only 100% in the logitech Profiler.
Do you have ffb clip or something installed?
Please go on a track, move the cursor to the right for the app list and activate the ffb app. It's the one with the wheel icon.
The number there should be 100!

If you still have the problem I think your minimum ffb is not at zero. It would match the vibration in the center!
Go to the wheel settings in the game, navigate to the section with the ffb slider and where the kerb, road and slip sliders are too.
There you find the minimum ffb slider!
It has a range from 0 to 25 I think. Put that to 0!

I hope that helps

 

[Arnej]

Had that rattling problem once, the logitech profiler set it's global settings by himself to 100% on everything, tuned down damper and springs to zero again, and all was fine - hope this helps

yes! the vibration is gone, but Is still very hard, is lighter in the middle and suddenly hard extremely hard.

 

[RasmusP]

yes! the vibration is gone, but Is still very hard, is lighter in the middle and suddenly hard extremely hard.

Glad at least the vibration is gone
To the problem that it's hard: it's meant to simulate a real race car. They are that hard
For comparison: the logitech G27 is maximum capable of around 2 Newtonmeters. A real indy car has around 17 Newtonmeters in some situations.
May I ask if, and if yes what car, you ever drove a real car near it's grip limit?

Another problem with the G27 is that if you lower the ffb, you will lose details and you will get this dead zone around the center.
So there isn't really a choice of settings with the G27. Either you take it how it works, or it won't be accurate any more at all
But if it's really too hard for you, just lower the overall ffb strength from 100 back to 75 or something and see how it is

 

[Arnej]

Glad at least the vibration is gone
To the problem that it's hard: it's meant to simulate a real race car. They are that hard
For comparison: the logitech G27 is maximum capable of around 2 Newtonmeters. A real indy car has around 17 Newtonmeters in some situations.
May I ask if, and if yes what car, you ever drove a real car near it's grip limit?

Another problem with the G27 is that if you lower the ffb, you will lose details and you will get this dead zone around the center.
So there isn't really a choice of settings with the G27. Either you take it how it works, or it won't be accurate any more at all
But if it's really too hard for you, just lower the overall ffb strength from 100 back to 75 or something and see how it is

"I ask if, and if yes what car, you ever drove a real car near it's grip limit?"
Mmmm yes, but no a racing car lol, You are right, thanks dude!

 

[Arnej]

Hello Rasmus, me again , I could use the steering wheel as I like, but what was not right now, I do not feel anything in a straight line, for example with KTM X-Bow R on Magione the back straight have small bumps, and I can not feel anything, I tried to change the minimum force 0% to 50% and nothing change same with gain, and nothing change, you have any idea? thanks again again and again

 

[RasmusP]

Hello Rasmus, me again , I could use the steering wheel as I like, but what was not right now, I do not feel anything in a straight line, for example with KTM X-Bow R on Magione the back straight have small bumps, and I can not feel anything, I tried to change the minimum force 0% to 50% and nothing change same with gain, and nothing change, you have any idea? thanks again again and again

Everything else is working "normal"?
My guess would be to raise the gain in the FFB app while on Track. It saves the track+car combo so you don't screw up the settings. Raise it until it feels fine.
You use my LUT? If yes, don't touch the minimum FFB slider, it screws up the LUT

 

[Arnej]

Everything else is working "normal"?
My guess would be to raise the gain in the FFB app while on Track. It saves the track+car combo so you don't screw up the settings. Raise it until it feels fine.
You use my LUT? If yes, don't touch the minimum FFB slider, it screws up the LUT

Yes. i use your LUT, everything else working "normal", is only when driving in line rect, I read, that in mangione with the KTW, you should feel the jumps in the steering wheel, even if it goes in a straight line. I already raised the profit and it still does not change.

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ack-wheel-using-wheelcheck-and-ffbclip.14319/

Point 1.c

 

[RasmusP]

Yes. i use your LUT, everything else working "normal", is only when driving in line rect, I read, that in mangione with the KTW, you should feel the jumps in the steering wheel, even if it goes in a straight line. I already raised the profit and it still does not change.

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ack-wheel-using-wheelcheck-and-ffbclip.14319/

Point 1.c

I don't want to say something negative about WheelCheck or ffbclip but both didn't work for me in any way!
They are great tools to get information about the wheel but the "technically perfect settings" feel like absolute garbage on my g27
My lut is the default ffb how Kunos programmed it. It just eliminates the deadzone in a very defined way I came up with over many hours.
If you touch the min ffb slider, the lut gets transformed in a way it doesn't make sense.

So to feel more details, or better said: if you want to feel low forces stronger, you need to raise the overall ffb.
Best way to do that is to raise the overall slider in the logitech profiler. Raising the overall gain in the game could cause clipping.

But in the end it could also be the case that the G27 just can't deliver these small bumps because it doesn't have enough dynamic between high and low forces

 

[Gaudin]

After yesterday's update, my wheel rattles more than normal whilst breaking and ABS usage - did they change something? Changed nothing on my side, same settings as before the update.

 

[RasmusP]

After yesterday's update, my wheel rattles more than normal whilst breaking and ABS usage - did they change something? Changed nothing on my side, same settings as before the update.

Just testing it!
So at ABS at 100 you will get a massive rattle when the ABS kicks in!
I guess a few percent should do the job at the G27
The rest is the same as usual.
So your old settings would be with ABS slider at "0". Just test for your self

I have it at 10% at the moment. It gives this kind of vibration like you get into your foot when braking into ABS with a real car!

 

[Gaudin]

I just found the option in the settings while not using content manager, it's missing there I think, it was set to 27%, trying now with 10 - thanks as always!

 

[Fernando Deutsch]

After yesterday's update, my wheel rattles more than normal whilst breaking and ABS usage - did they change something? Changed nothing on my side, same settings as before the update.

Exactly the same to me after the update with my G27. How do you guys fixed the rattle? Is not clear to me.

 

[Gaudin]

There is a new option in the Controllers FFB section, just lower that Value ABS and it should be good

 

[RasmusP]

Exactly the same to me after the update with my G27. How do you guys fixed the rattle? Is not clear to me.

Also if you are on the track you can activate the force Feedback app. Move the cursor to the right side and click in the icon with the steering wheel.
Now you have the car multiplicator for overall ffb and below that the effects sliders, with abs included

 

[Arnej]

Hello Rasmus, today i was driving the Ferrari 312/67 on nurburgring, and my ffb is horrible in my g27, and other cars too for example Porsche 911 Carrera RSR in any track off course, you feel a horrible tremor when you turn in the curves, Do you know anything about it, does it happen to you? tired of the assetto and his ffb

 

[RasmusP]

Hello Rasmus, today i was driving the Ferrari 312/67 on nurburgring, and my ffb is horrible in my g27, and other cars too for example Porsche 911 Carrera RSR in any track off course, you feel a horrible tremor when you turn in the curves, Do you know anything about it, does it happen to you? tired of the assetto and his ffb

Hi!
Go on track, open the ffb app (little wheel icon) and have a look at the sliders.
You have the overall, car specific, ffb strength.

Then you have the slips, road, curbs and abs sliders.
Maybe your slips slider is really high and you get understeering with that car? Would be my first thought.

If it's not the slips slider, turn down every of the red sliders and see if it's one of them (not the overall slider of course)

 

[Arnej]

Hi!
Go on track, open the ffb app (little wheel icon) and have a look at the sliders.
You have the overall, car specific, ffb strength.

Then you have the slips, road, curbs and abs sliders.
Maybe your slips slider is really high and you get understeering with that car? Would be my first thought.

If it's not the slips slider, turn down every of the red sliders and see if it's one of them (not the overall slider of course)

get down all the things and still the same, if under the strength of ffb is still feeling, at least I leave it at 0, cars of gt3, gt4 are well, this game outweighs me day lol

 

[Tastaturri]

At first thank you for the detailed guid!

But i have one question abou the steering wheel rotation: So in the logitech-driver you set it to 865° but ingame to 838°. How did you come up with this value?

Also it seems that i have to turn the wheel to much in some corners and somehow it feels unnatural compared to real driving. Maybe i'm the only one noticing that but it just doesn't seem "right" to me.

Edit: i used the settings for the profile and ingame from your LUT guide.

 

[RasmusP]

At first thank you for the detailed guid!

But i have one question abou the steering wheel rotation: So in the logitech-driver you set it to 865° but ingame to 838°. How did you come up with this value?

Also it seems that i have to turn the wheel to much in some corners and somehow it feels unnatural compared to real driving. Maybe i'm the only one noticing that but it just doesn't seem "right" to me.

Edit: i used the settings for the profile and ingame from your LUT guide.

The rotations are a bit strange. I use real head motion and only one monitor with a FOV of 47°.
When I turn my logitech wheel about 90° the ingame head tilts slightly to the left and in theory the ingame wheel should turn 90° too.
But it doesn't LOOK like it does so I just played around with the degrees until they matched perfectly. I could probably find a fitting value for 900° too but never change a running system

The "turn too much problem": are your virtual wheel and the real wheel in sync? If yes, blame Kunos
In AC you sadly don't have a steering lock setup so all cars are like they did them. With different steering locks and we have to get used to them

In theory you could do a workaround and hide the virtual wheel and just change the max degrees of the real wheel in the logitech profiler.

BUT that would alter the FFB strength, the LUT etc etc.
If you use 450° in the profiler instead of 900°, the overall FFB will be compressed with factor 2. The wheel will go crazy and you would have to adjust all the settings

The little off-setting I use doesn't really matter. It's like 2-3% different forces. But greater values would indeed matter a lot!