Guide for G27 (and other wheels) configuration

[RasmusP]

February 2024 Update:
Please don't read this thread. I know Google will show it, but it's old and filled with partly wrong information from me.
Just use my LUT package instead:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/



-------------- Don't read this! --------------

Older edit: After almost everyone prefers the LUT-Configuration, I created a Lut-only Thread with all my LUTs attached in a zip-file in the Download-Area here at Racedepartment.
Have a look:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/

Original post:
Hello everyone,
I know there are a lot of settings and guides online for "the perfect settings" but after I spent about 30 hours searching and trying, I really found MY best settings.
They are a combination of different guides (but with the "GAMMA-option" in use) that I will name right now and first:

Really nice and complete Guide on Assetto Corsa Forum
Reddit Thread where my adventure began (and where I got the Link above)
FFB Deadzone Fix Logitech G27
Guide for LUT Generator (can't recommend it but helped me understanding)

EDIT: I thought the LUT was what gave me my perfect feeling BUT IT WAS THE TYPE=GAMMA, not a LUT so I rewrote that whole Guide:

EDIT2: I found out how to write a LUT yourself so I did it and the result is something similar to the gamma-setting BUT less compressed, smoother middle-transition and therefore BETTER! Here is the link to the post if you don't want to scroll down: LINK

TL: DR Lines:
1. Adjust InGame-settings and Profiler

2. Open the controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"
set MIN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001

3. open the assetto_corsa.ini:
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"
set ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7

4. open the ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"
set VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5, CURVE=%doesn't matter%

5. HAVE FUN

6. additional:
- Logitech Profiler:
- overall: 100
- spring: 0
- damper: 0
- untick center spring, NO combined pedals, 900° rotation, TICK "allow game to adjust settings"

- AC InGame:
- Gain: 50% [depends on your wheel but for my G27 it is 50%. 75-125% InCAR]
- Filter: 0
- Min Force: 4%
- kerb, road, slip: 0
- understeer: untick
- Steering Settings: gamma 1, filter 0, sensivity 0!!

For those who want a detailed guide:

After I read very very much about all seen and all hidden settings in Assetto Corsa, I tried everything out, but one of these things was always bothering me:

1. you have a huge dead zone
2. your wheel oszillates
3. deadzone ok but no smooth transition at center
4. just too much force

The solution for me was the GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini!
Combined with the dampening-setting, the Gyro-setting, the min_force and the Center_Boost!
Short version of what this settings do:
To get rid of the Deadzone you need to combine the very little center-boost with the min-force. But then you will have a little bump in the middle because they have a "hard cut" at zero-force.
If you enable the GAMMA-setting this hard-cut will be transformed into a curve, just like the FFB-Output from Assetto Corsa will get compressed to a curve where little forces are boosted and the high forces are lowered.
Here are a few pictures of that:

1. Wheelcheck Result:
2. How the AC-FFB has to be alternated:

3. All these settings combined:

So you get rid of the deadzone but don't get an oscillating wheel! [Plus you feel more details.]

The Settings in detail:
1. controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"

- Filter=0: This should eliminate FFB-spikes but for me it seems like it just kills little details but does not really smoothes out! So let it on 0!

- MIN_FF=0: That means, that the "zero force" is still zero force, theoretically it's THE setting to get rid of the deadzone BUT I experienced, that you need to get up to 17% for the G27 and then don't have a deadzone anymore but case 2.: your wheel oscillates.
If you go down to about 12% you have case 3.: the deadzone is still there, but little. Problem: it doesn't feel nice... 0 Force in the Deadzone and then BAM, FORCE.
My thought about that:
The "MIN FORCE" doesn't have a "Curve" for the lowest force. It just does a hard cut which ends up in my experienced results. (See Picture above: 3. combined)

- CENTER_BOOST_GAIN: In the Guide "FFB Deadzone Fix for Logitech G27 1.2" this setting is used.
Explanation: If you imagine the Wheel, the FFB begins at a little bit right and left from the center-> "deadzone". That is because the force that IS THERE, IN THE CENTER, is too low for your wheel.
This setting BOOSTS the FFB in the RANGE of "CENTER_BOOST_RANGE"

- CENTER_BOOST_RANGE: as mentioned, this is the range of the boost that applies on the FFB FROM THE CENTER. Theoretically you just need to "Boost the deadzone away". But this does not work, I tried EVERYTHING!! (combined with GAMMA this transforms to a "curve"!)

I combined this 3 settings in every possibility but you have always ONE problem: the "center transition" as in "you steer from left to right" gets a BUMP in the middle, because of the boost.
I tried to lower the boost, widen the range, give a little more MIN_FORCE. But nope, you always gets this unrealistic "center-bump". (so you need the GAMMA!)

I have to give the author much credit, it is a really nice setting but it's just not enough for me.

2. assetto_corsa.ini
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"

- FF_SKIP_STEPS=0: If set to 1, you get half of the FFB-Refresh-Rate. So if you have a decent hardware, go with 0! Some people get an error on servers because their CPU is too weak. Then go with 1. It doesn't make a HUGE difference, but the more FF-Inputs, the better, right?

- ENABLE_GYRO=1: Honestly, I don't understand this settings but it smoothens the wheel without taking away important informations!
If you read about that setting: It is for Direct Drive Wheels as the Logitech G27 (not belt drive like Thrustmaster for example) and interprets "the wheel as a Gyro on certain speeds".
If your wheel is a little bit "shaky" overall or oscillates: go with 1!

- DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0: This means, that the InGame dampening (a few versions ago there was a slider?!) is OFF, when the Engine says the damper to be zero. If you increase this settings, your dampening will ALWAYS BE ON, even if the engine does NOT give the input for it.

- DAMPER_GAIN=1.0: That is simple. If the engine gives the input to dampen the FFB-Signal, it is indeed dampened. For my G27 I like it on 0.7 but if your wheel feels a little "numb" you can lower or even deactivate it. I find my wheel too shaky when on 0.0!
Sidenote: ALWAYS USE THIS SETTINGS FOR DAMPENING, NOT THE LOGITECH PROFILER DAMPENING!!!


3. ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"

- Version=1: No idea, just leave it!

- TYPE=GAMMA: I don't know how it works exactly but it is THE setting that got me stunning! I drawed a Curve about how it feels for me and it makes sense but honestly: no idea...
Here is the picture:

- VALUE=0.5: Well in one guide the author tells you "it is on 1 at mine, no idea, just leave it" BUT IT IS IMPORTANT!
It determines how strong the FFB gets "compressed". So on 1.0 it does NOTHING, on 0.1 you feel absolutely no details, it's like ultra-power-steering.
For me about 0.5 is the optimum for having details but no deadzone.
THIS IS THE SETTING THAT ELIMINATES MY DEADZONE AND LET IT FEEL REAL!
What is important here: you have to lower the global FFB in order to have "normal forces". The lower the value, the lower your global FFB! If you put VALUE=0.1 and global FFB on 100% you get broken arms for sure...

- CURVE=%doesn't matter, not active%": Well this is just the settings to take the correct LUT. BUT: I don't use a LUT and I can't recommend it with the G27. Tried it and it was just awful!
IF you want to activate a LUT you have to change TYPE=LUT (thanks to Ross Garland for giving me that info!)


Conclusion:
I know that was a lot and I know it's not perfect but maybe it will help you with your settings and increase the fun you have with Assetto Corsa.
I switched over from Project Cars but was so mad with my wheel that I thought about buying another one. The Deadzone was so annoying but the graphics, sound and gameplay were better and I really wanted that game to get working!

This is just a wrap up from other people's posts and guides but I didn't find a guide here, where you don't need to login to the Assetto Corsa Forum or even there, where all these settings are packed up so you can just read it down and get your settings.
And most importantly: I nowhere found any mention of this GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini so alone for that setting I wrote that all down.

I made this post to give all searching souls another thing to try and hope this makes even a few people happy

Let me know if it helped you!

Kind Regards,
Rasmus

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP Would the instructions in your first post work with a Driving Force GT?

yes, absolutely! The LUT version (linked in first Post, actually down on first page) works also!
The wheel-motors are quite the same. Only difference is the REALLY small ffb-deadzone on the DFGT so you will need to use a lower min force and a lower center_boost_gain. Or with using my LUT->the first 3 values must be lower.

Try them and report back I have a friend and configured his DFGT. If you need help I will ask him to send me his settings (don't know them at the moment).

 

[Stephen O'Sullivan]

Thank you for your advice.

For the sake of clarity, I should say that I had already used the FFBClip App's "light" setting to find a suitable FFB level. 72% avoided any clipping for the Ferrari 458 GT2 at Mugello. The steering was light and responsive but lacked road feel. I disabled the app before trying your method.

Road Feel, Kerb Effect and Slipping Effect were all at 0.

I followed your non-LUT instructions, then your DFGT-specific advice:

• Reduced the Min Force to 1%
• Reduced center_boost_gain to 1.00 as per your DFGT suggestion.
• Gain in-game 50%.

I used the Pedal App to check for clipping. In the end, the Ferrari started to clip at 135% on one corner, so a level of 130% seemed sensible. Bear in mind that this was from a starting point of 72%!

The result:

• The wheel was still very light. Normally, car FFB of 130% would be far too much for me.
• Steering was almost completely smooth, with hardly a hint of the DFGT's "notchiness".
• Corner entry and exit was much smoother and more precise.
• Kerbs were lighter yet much more detailed.
• Still a lack of road feel.

All in all, the wheel is smoother and more precise - it feels as though the DFGT has had an upgrade.

Do you think my Min Force and center_boost_gain levels make sense for the DFGT or would you recommend I alter them? If I'm feeling brave, I might try your LUT method soon.

Again, thank you for your research and help. I'm looking forward to trying other vehicles in AC with my "new" wheel.

 

[RasmusP]

Thank you for your advice.
All in all, the wheel is smoother and more precise - it feels as though the DFGT has had an upgrade.

Do you think my Min Force and center_boost_gain levels make sense for the DFGT or would you recommend I alter them? If I'm feeling brave, I might try your LUT method soon.

Again, thank you for your research and help. I'm looking forward to trying other vehicles in AC with my "new" wheel.

Happy to hear that!
Road feel is difficult to achieve with such "low end" wheels. Either it dampens everything else or it isn't there :/ You could try to increase the "road effects" slider a bit but the logitech wheels have a tendency to rattle!

Your values for min force and center boost seem fine! If you want to have a really "firm" wheel in center position try to increase both a bit. Min force to 3% and center boost to 1.1. If you go too high the wheel will shake itself at straights and you will get a "bump" when you move around the center position while doing left-right-left etc. chicanes.

If you wonder how a LUT would be different: You will have a firmer wheel in the center without the little "bump" in chicanes and would also feel a bit more details. BUT you will trade that for a less smooth wheel.
So in my opinion the "GAMMA-Method" is more like driving a normal road car while the LUT-Method is a bit "faster" for sim racing.
Whenever a friend wants to try sim racing I switch to my gamma configuration for him/her to give a more natural experience. Don't feel pressured to spend the time into trying the LUT-method

 

[Stephen O'Sullivan]

Happy to hear that!
Road feel is difficult to achieve with such "low end" wheels. Either it dampens everything else or it isn't there :/ You could try to increase the "road effects" slider a bit but the logitech wheels have a tendency to rattle!

Your values for min force and center boost seem fine! If you want to have a really "firm" wheel in center position try to increase both a bit. Min force to 3% and center boost to 1.1. If you go too high the wheel will shake itself at straights and you will get a "bump" when you move around the center position while doing left-right-left etc. chicanes.

The canned "Road Effect" might dull the FFB detail (and induce rattling!) so it is staying at 0. I tried your suggestion of:

• Min Force 3%
• center_boost_gain to 1.1

The result:

Better control mid-corner. Corners now divide into three sections: entry, apex and exit, instead of just entry and exit. If the goal of FFB is to give the user more idea of what the car is doing, then these changes are a success. As a bonus, there is still no characteristic DFGT "bump" when swiftly changing directions in chicanes. The wheel feels smooth all the way round.

Assetto Corsa now feels good enough to judge different cars' FFB. Some are disappointing. The Ferrari 458 GT2 is very driveable. The Mazda 787B, which formerly felt pretty dead, is a revelation. At Highlands Long, I knew what the car was doing. It is the first AC car that I can push and push, catching little slides and getting the car on the ragged edge in high-speed corners (I can't drift to save my life.) Plus there is a faint engine rumble on the starting line and no notchiness at all when driving. All I need now is a better GPU!

Sorry to be long-winded, but when discussing this stuff, it pays to be specific. Thank you so much, @RasmusP . I urge anyone with a DFGT to try his settings. Remember to make a backup before changing anything!

 

[poir.qc]

In case anyone want to start fresh with this method, after already playing with the ini files:
Found this on stream:

Aristotelis [developer] 20 Dec, 2013 @ 5:11am
Hi, go to your documents folder, find the folder assetto corsa and rename it. Relaunch the game and it will create a brand new one with all default values.

It's better to rename the old one and not erase it, so you can get back things and values you might need.

also, visit the official support forum for additional support.
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum

 

[RasmusP]

In case anyone want to start fresh with this method, after already playing with the ini files:
Found this on stream:

Thanks for the info! Didn't know that it works with the whole folder!

 

[Fernando Deutsch]

As far as I know the FFB is very similar in both wheels! It's more of an upgrade than of a real change.
Helical gears instead of straight, different H-Shifter, slightly different pedals for better Heal/Toe and some button changes and new Wheel Rim.
Motor itself is the same I think!

Well "should be created" is a heavy proposition. What is important to understand is that MY LUT does NOT change the linearity of the FFB! It only changes the little forces and gets rid of the dead feeling at the center.
I have read many many posts about using a LUT for linearity. I tried them all and I don't like it at all!
You do a smooth turn in with your hands and the forces you feel are NOT linear in any way... But with the default ffb they are!
But to get rid of the dead center in a satisfying way you will need a LUT, yes

To get rid of a dead center you need 2 things:
more force at the center and a fall off of these stronger forces. Otherwise you will get oscillation!
Project Cars has 2 sliders: DeadZone Removal and DeadZone Removal FallOff.
My LUT does exactly that, but created by hand.
Way more complicated, a bit better in my opinion

Have fun with your new wheel and if you need help, we will help you

Just a "heads up" . Yesterday I received the new steering wheel. The force feedback of the G27 is way much smoother and progressive compared to the G25 which felt very spiky. Also I feel the G27 much more precise on input for directing the car. I immediately feel I can drive more deep into the braking and corner entry zones. No "placebo", times are going down on all cars. The only configuration change was a new LUT file for the G27.

 

[dcully]

Can somebody please tell me the default settings for the various changes suggested in first post please.
For some reason mid corner i feel like my wheel rotation now hits a block at a certain rotation angle, its very weird and totally not enjoyable, hard to explain the exact sensation so i better start allover again.
The following are the suggested tweaks, im looking for the settings before any tweaks if you understand me.

IN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001

ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7

VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5

 

[RasmusP]

The following are the suggested tweaks, im looking for the settings before any tweaks if you understand me.

MIN_FF=0.00 (it's the in game slider), CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=0.0, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001 (without gain it doesn't do anything, so no default here)

ENABLE_GYRO=0, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=1.0

VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=0, VALUE=1.0

 

[dcully]

Thanks a million.

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks a million.

No problem! Was send quickly from my phone. If you need further help I am there!

 

[HypoToad]

RasmusP:

Not wanting to spend a fortune in case I didn't like using a wheel I purchased a "new" DFGT for next to nothing, the guy mustn't have ever used it, still packed in the box and the instructions were still sealed. Anyway after plugging it in and getting it working it was kinda like wrestling an angry orangutan when going straight.

I tried your lut file and settings and it felt great on corners, a huge improvement, but still a bit of a wrestle in a straight line, so I edited the first lines in the lut like you suggested, I experimented with lowering the values until I can go straight without the wheel see-sawing back and forth, still feel the road fine and it seems to be working great.

I just have to work on my driving as I only used a controller and the wheel is so different, I can keep up with the ghost car and actually beat it on some corners, but it's like learning the car and track all over again. I can see myself putting in many enjoyable hours with this now.

Thanks for posting this, now back to practice.

 

[RasmusP]

RasmusP:

Not wanting to spend a fortune in case I didn't like using a wheel I purchased a "new" DFGT for next to nothing, the guy mustn't have ever used it, still packed in the box and the instructions were still sealed. Anyway after plugging it in and getting it working it was kinda like wrestling an angry orangutan when going straight.

I tried your lut file and settings and it felt great on corners, a huge improvement, but still a bit of a wrestle in a straight line, so I edited the first lines in the lut like you suggested, I experimented with lowering the values until I can go straight without the wheel see-sawing back and forth, still feel the road fine and it seems to be working great.

I just have to work on my driving as I only used a controller and the wheel is so different, I can keep up with the ghost car and actually beat it on some corners, but it's like learning the car and track all over again. I can see myself putting in many enjoyable hours with this now.

Thanks for posting this, now back to practice.

One of my best friends has a DFGT too and yes, the deadzone around the center is only about 2-3% on the DFGT and about 15% on the G27.
You did the right thing with lowering the first values!
One thing though: if you put your LUT into excel and create a graph, it won't be perfectly smooth and after some time you'll maybe notice that the FFB isn't increasing in a linear way.
Here is the LUT I created for my friend and his DFGT:
Graph:

and the LUT in the spoiler:

Spoiler: DFGT_LUT1

0|0.070
0.01|0.100
0.02|0.133
0.03|0.159
0.04|0.182
0.05|0.202
0.06|0.219
0.07|0.232
0.08|0.244
0.09|0.252
0.1|0.260
0.11|0.268
0.12|0.276
0.13|0.285
0.14|0.293
0.15|0.301
0.16|0.309
0.17|0.318
0.18|0.326
0.19|0.334
0.2|0.342
0.21|0.350
0.22|0.359
0.23|0.367
0.24|0.375
0.25|0.383
0.26|0.392
0.27|0.400
0.28|0.408
0.29|0.416
0.3|0.424
0.31|0.433
0.32|0.441
0.33|0.449
0.34|0.457
0.35|0.466
0.36|0.474
0.37|0.482
0.38|0.490
0.39|0.498
0.4|0.507
0.41|0.515
0.42|0.523
0.43|0.531
0.44|0.540
0.45|0.548
0.46|0.556
0.47|0.564
0.48|0.572
0.49|0.581
0.5|0.589
0.51|0.597
0.52|0.605
0.53|0.614
0.54|0.622
0.55|0.630
0.56|0.638
0.57|0.646
0.58|0.655
0.59|0.663
0.6|0.671
0.61|0.679
0.62|0.688
0.63|0.696
0.64|0.704
0.65|0.712
0.66|0.720
0.67|0.729
0.68|0.737
0.69|0.745
0.7|0.753
0.71|0.762
0.72|0.770
0.73|0.778
0.74|0.786
0.75|0.794
0.76|0.803
0.77|0.811
0.78|0.819
0.79|0.827
0.8|0.836
0.81|0.844
0.82|0.852
0.83|0.860
0.84|0.868
0.85|0.877
0.86|0.885
0.87|0.893
0.88|0.901
0.89|0.910
0.9|0.918
0.91|0.926
0.92|0.934
0.93|0.942
0.94|0.951
0.95|0.959
0.96|0.967
0.97|0.975
0.98|0.984
0.99|0.992
1|1.000

 

[HypoToad]

I actually ended up going for the original lut you posted not the updated one with the same changes in the first few lines, it's working beautifully, seems a little smoother than the updated one, I am getting closer to my best controller times already, and it's way more fun, with the controller you can throw the car around with the wheel it's all about smoothness, like a real car.

Will check out your DFGT lut, thanks for all the effort and sharing.

Update:

The more I use the DFGT with the custom lut, still on the original one, the more I like it, it's so smooth and responsive, can't feel it's using gears like some complain of, and no dead zone that I can feel, couldn't be happier, my wife tried it and I could hardly get her off it, thanks again.

So if anyone want's to get a wheel and doesn't want to spend a lot (they go for around $50.00) then get one of these and use the custom lut files from RasmusP you won't be sorry IMO.

 

[Arnej]

Hello Rasmus!, first of all, sorry for my bad english, It's been more than a year since I modified my wheel (Logitech G27), and I can not get a decent ffb, And now I met you! I'll leave you the photo of my log2, I hope not to disturb you, thank you!




PD: In Assetto Corsa i use 869 deegres, to match my steering wheel with the virtual, and log 2 i use 900 degrees not 869 like in the game, Should I do log 2 with 869 degrees?

 

[RasmusP]

Hello Rasmus!, first of all, sorry for my bad english, It's been more than a year since I modified my wheel (Logitech G27), and I can not get a decent ffb, And now I met you! I'll leave you the photo of my log2, I hope not to disturb you, thank you!




PD: In Assetto Corsa i use 869 deegres, to match my steering wheel with the virtual, and log 2 i use 900 degrees not 869 like in the game, Should I do log 2 with 869 degrees?

Hey man, short answer from my phone:
I use the exact same degree ingame. For some reason you need around 870 ingame and 900 in the Profiler.
Your log 2 looks also exactly like mine!
I would suggest you just use my LUT guide and I think you'll be happy with it
If you need further help with it just ask!

 

[Arnej]

Hey man, short answer from my phone:
I use the exact same degree ingame. For some reason you need around 870 ingame and 900 in the Profiler.
Your log 2 looks also exactly like mine!
I would suggest you just use my LUT guide and I think you'll be happy with it
If you need further help with it just ask!

Great!, I'm a little blind , Could you copy me your lut here?, and my setup in game, FFB gain 50% and all the rest is okay?, sorry again for disturbed!

 

[RasmusP]

Great!, I'm a little blind , Could you copy me your lut here?, and my setup in game, FFB gain 50% and all the rest is okay?, sorry again for disturbed!

No problem
Have a look at this post on page 1:
http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...her-wheels-configuration.134490/#post-2474332

Ingame it's important to have the ffb at 100 %. In the Profiler too!
Also important is to have the minimum ffb slider at 0%!
The lut it self is at the bottom
A second lut is in the spoiler. With these numbers you get a slightly stronger ffb in the center

 

[Arnej]

No problem
Have a look at this post on page 1:
http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...her-wheels-configuration.134490/#post-2474332

Ingame it's important to have the ffb at 100 %. In the Profiler too!
Also important is to have the minimum ffb slider at 0%!
The lut it self is at the bottom
A second lut is in the spoiler. With these numbers you get a slightly stronger ffb in the center

Thanks, thanks so much really!, last question, When I use 100% ffb, it's extremely hard, Using this lut, is it the same?

EDIT: I dont see ffb slider in any place

 

[Arnej]

I just did everything, I followed all the steps, But it is extremely hard and vibrates in the center a lot