A decade of 80/20 rig evolution . . .
Two moves since then--one of which brought me back to the U.S. Midwest when I was married in 2017. Now, finally some time to drive in Asetto Corsa and do some cable management during the Christmas break after getting back in the rig a few weeks ago for the first time since 2016!
This rig should be assigned race #999 to honor the Barney Oldfield-driven Ford race car not only because each build started it all for Henry and me, but also--in my case--the number of iterations I have assembled it in!
I feel fortunate to have begun my journey with the "adult's Erector set" albeit with 1515 profiles mixed with 1545 wheeldeck uprights which are still the bedrock of my rig. I researched commercially available aluminum profile rigs before reverse-engineering my initial build from a beautifully laid out 40mm profile parts photo another sim racer whose handle I have unfortunately forgotten. My first 80/20 order was sourced via the much missed and greatly discounted 80/20 Garage Sale, with the long lengths shipping at reasonable cost ($39 I believe!) via UPS from Indiana one state away directly to our warehouse. I had access to a horizontal band saw at work and helpful coworkers so the rig came together quickly.
For controls, I splurged for a $200 Fanatec Forza CSR wheel (somewhat reluctantly for sale after an 8+ year hibernation) and $250 CSP v. 2 pedals (pictured and still in use but which will soon be offered up when replaced by Heusinkveld Sprints.)
On Black Friday 2012, I spent the wee hours of the morning with my mom and a few other intrepid shoppers in a suburban Detroit Meijer store waiting to purchase a discounted Xbox 360 just to play F1 2012.
Wanting to get better with a manual transmission (I have never owned a stick), I added a Thrustmaster TH8RS shifter with the Basher Boards adaptor box (still have it) to allow it to function with the wheel. I bet those peripherals have less than 30 hours use on them.
My first seat was a 58 lb(!) cloth power adjustable seat from then a 2012 Dodge Charger Superbee (I still have the bee-emblazoned and striped driver, passenger, and rear seats which I only dream might someday find their way into an appropriate Dodge musclecar restomod--someone else's if not mine.)
I drove from Detroit to Cleveland to meet a guy at his son's baseball game for a mint Craigslist Fanatec Porsche GT3RS wheel and CSR pedals (the later given to my brother when I bought him and my niece an Xbox 360 and CSR Forza wheel.) Needing pedals to go with the orange Porsche wheel, ISRTV again led me to a well-worn but lovingly maintained CSP v.1 pedals from an aging racer. I had an inkling to buy a cheap TV and build a portable PS3 rig setup to racetracks and car events as a draw for a racing ministry. Despite cars that tended to sound like the same vacuum cleaner, I enjoyed playing Gran Turismo 5, and am very upset that I cannot again drive the Goodwood Hillclimb since Sony refuses to support a GT6 on disc. Atari never abandoned a 2600-series console cartridge, but I digress. The "portable rig" was fleshed out with a Craigslist Corbeau Forza seat from a young autocrosser who used it in his 4th Gen Camaro Z28 rendezvoused with in Ann Arbor (did I mention I still have the seat?!l)
I would later "upgrade" to Xbox One--delaying that jump until the FORZA edition X-box One came out (I still use that console with my "dumb" TV for video streaming) and still get a smile out of powering it up or down with its Ford GT sounds.) I could not justify the cost of a new Fanatec wheel as I instinctively did not like the Elite wheelbase), so I settled for the Thrustmaster TX Racing Ferrari wheel and T3PA pedals (all also for sale). Even with the addition of the gorgeous and pricey alcantara 599X rim (never used), I could never shake the notion that TM wheelbase was a toy compared to my Fanatec gear. LESSON IN HINDSIGHT: I should have bought CSW V.2.
I loved the aural and visual delight of Project Cars on Xbox, but the few times I drove it I felt the rear of the car always wanted to come around. I would also buy AC for console but never played it (it may still be sealed!)
Groundhog Day 2016 brought a layoff followed quickly by a new job in North Carolina. I took all my wheels but only drove the scarcely used TM combo a couple of times. The Xbox One did, however, yield some intense early AM "Medal of Honor" sessions--made even more dramatic from the inky dark of country living. Sim racing faded as a priority when I acquired and aspired to restore a 1970 AMC Javelin to red-white-blue Trans Am retro racer glory. The car was clean and the requisite flared fenderwork was complete but my best friend and now wife found me . . .
Fast-forward to 2018--I built my first and current PC with Ryzen 3700X and a used 1080ti with the goal of running triples. I bought a set of 24-in 1080p ASUS monitors and a SimLab triple monitor stand for a price I could not pass up even though the seller was in Chicago via ISRTV. I sold the monitor stand at the high point of the COVID lockdown for the price I bought it and the monitors.
Thanks to the RD community (thank you Pyronious!), I snagged an SFX-100 shield in the second group buy and Arduino Leonardo (both of which I later sold.) I decided motion was not a realistic option for me (cost, noise, footprint) though I do want to add a harness tensioner.
Instead of motion for immersion, I set my sights on (still unrealized) tactile. I scored two BK Mini LFEs for a good price here on RD, an external Star 7.1 surround sound card, a Monoprice amp, and various SpeakOn connectors and cables. Amazon provided a bargain on a Nobsound amp to power four Dayton exciters per Mr. Latte's seat back recipe. To round out the setup, I finally scored a Behringer NX1000D for the BK minis thanks to a tip from another thoughtful RD member.
When I bought my first wheel, I yearned for a removable wheel like that on the more expensive and more powerful Fanatec CSR Elite--I believe it had only round and Formula rim options--and always aspired to the CSW V.1 which introduced wider interchangeability. COVID prompted me to upgrade to a Fanatec CSW v.2.5 wheelbase and lightly used McLaren GT3 v.1 wheel. I enjoy both but rue not selling the v.1 wheel when they were commanding such fanatically (pun intended) high prices before the v.2 release. I did not use this combo until a few weeks ago. LESSON: Make time for your hobby. LESSON: Do not hesistate to sell!
To better accomodate the CSW v.2.5 wheel, I first bought a TracRacer wheeldeck and adapted it to my 24-in wide rig. I later bought my current, more easily adjustable deck (quick release levers allow tilt and height changes) from Advanced Sim Racing in Canada.
As a longtime fan of the Pontiac Formula wheel used on late '60s and '70s GTOs and Firebirds, a vintage three-spoke round steering wheel has always been a part of my sim racing plans. I have a ca. 1977-78 Formula wheel, but its non-standard bolt pattern is a challenge to adapt to a Podium hub. The Formula wheel is an unabashed copy of the iconic MOMO Prototipo--one ad for the first year 1969 Firebird Trans Am clearly shows a Prototipo where the Formula wheel would reside. Noted car designer Larry Shinoda had custom monogrammed prototipo on his 1969 Mach I which was the canvas for 1969 Boss 302 graphics.
Unable to spring for a vintage Prototipo, I jumped when a 1970s Racemark 350mm wheel with light patina popped up on eBay. Racemark was a German Raid wheel produced with motorsports legend Mark Donohue. Many of these tillers found their way into Porsche 911s, and Datsun Z-cars, and there was even an aftermarket Chevrolet Camaro Z28 package which featured the wheel. Holding the Racemark wheel I was impressed with its heft and the suppleness of the leather--then a lot of care and effort went into removing the seized bolts from the BMW(?) hub adaptor to which the wheel was attached. Alas, I have yet to turn a corner with this wheel as its Nardi/Personal 74mm PCD pattern has been a hold up despite the purchase of an adaptor. It may yet be sold on as it is very heavy (over 2 pounds) and maybe too large in diameter for the CSW 2.5.
Wanting a smaller diameter round wheel as well, I strongly considered some of the replica F1 wheels being produced by 3DRap. I wound up with a Longacre 290mm suede wheel which is often used for karting. This wheel has also not turned a lap due to the need to drill the 3-bolt 50mm PCD pattern. I doubt my own ability to create hub concentric holes and fear marring the anodizing when drilling and--preferably for aesthetics--countersinking. LESSON: Have a friend who is a talented machinist.
To facilitate tactile, I bought a mint Recaro Pole Position seat in red but soon found it to be too tight in the shoulders. Facebook Marketplace led me to my current MOMO which was nearing expiration, I still have the Recaro (seeing a pattern?) LESSON: Sit in any seat you plan to buy! I had planned to do it when I bought the Pole Position, but I was so excited at the proposition of finally owning such a vaunted seat that I forgot!
Motomec adjustable seat rails allow me to have the layback angle I desire and Amazon-sourced springs are intended for isolation once tactile is up and running.
In addition to the fore-aft adlustment provided by the seat slider, four 5/8-in Rockler woodworking bench cam-style clamps allow the seat cross rails to be positioned forward and backward. HDPE tape (another lift from R/CHeliguy) helps the parts to slide and protects the aluminium anodizing of the side rails.
During 2020-21, I slowly bought three of 27-in 1440p Sceptre 165hz monitors at the terrific prices Amazon was offering. In the meantime, several 8-ft 1530 profiles (which had formed a modern looking arbor I built for our wedding in 2017) found themselves transformed into the current side and end rails and triple monitor support unrights, cross bar, and arms on this iteration of the rig.
The pedal portion of the rig is effectively 1560 profile to fit fore and aft, height, and tilt-adjustable TracRacer pedal deck brackets strategically bridged with 80/20 to mount the CSP V.2 pedals. The "1590" profile consists of sections of more "bridal" 1530 profiles bolted to the 1530 side rails using four limited edition red 40x120 TracRacer corner brackets redrilled for purpose.
Part of my fun with a rig is the challenge of adding accessories--especially when it is done effectively, even elegantly, on the cheap.
I have raised my overall seat height over the years, beginning appox. 6-in off the floor with 1.5-in side rails and 1.5-in seat crossbars paired with an OEM seat mount. Now 3-in tall casters, 3-in side rails, 3-in seat cross bars, a seat slider, isolation springs, and tall seat brackets bring my bottom--in a radically backward canted seat--to 18-in(!) off the carpet . A higher seat aids ingress and egress, but it also should give seat bottom mounted transducers more room.
The PC is secured using two long double-sided Velcro strips lashed to a $1 shelf from the Habitat for Humanity ReStore paired with $7 shelf brackets from Menard's (I found the same item at Home Depot also, but for more $.) I am not yet sure what the upper shelf will be used for, but I thought the white angle brackets looked good with the PC case, and the shelf has been handy to have while setting up the chassis and plugging everything in.
I plan to add a 50+ lb Yamaha YS-1000 soundbar--an astounding audio component inspired by Mt. Latte's tactile thread. The YS-1000 boasts 40+ tweeters and midrange cones in array capable of producing surround sound by bouncing sound waves off walls. I am just now working out mounting details, but I anticipate using the monitor uprights. I have a second YS-1000 which I bought for thr factory remote as the universal unit I bought could not unlock complete surround capability. Perhaps sound from in front of the rig AND behind?
Headset is a Logitech G 733S which I could not recommend more. My son has used the same model for for years after going through several headsets a year. I also use this headset for work communication for long meetings although the RGB LEDs are a bit much for video calls. I find them lightweight and comfortable compared to my employer-issued corded headset which manages to hurt my scalp and ears after minutes. The G 733S uses a USB dongle and has amazing range. My office is in the basement at one end of the house, but I do not lose signal until I get well into our bedroom on the mainfloor at the other end of the house. I can even walk halfway into our backyard and still communicate. They also only need charging once a week if that, but I do anticipate using them much more with more time racing.
The folding headphone holder is an IKEA piece which another RD member shared, possibly in this thread. The mouse shelf and keyboard tray were both fashioned from a 24-in square piece of Alucobest panel (aluminum clad composite) that I bought with my initial 80/20 order ten years ago! The mouse itself is a Logitech M575 trackball--not sure that it will stay as I have had limited use with it and it's a bit wonky on triples, but it too was influenced by use by Mark R/CHeliguy and others in these forums.
Six inexpensive 200-lb capacity Harbor Freight inline inline skate style casters make this heavy rig fairly mobile even on a thick rug and carpet and manage to support another 240-lbs of me.
The shifter mount is a short cutoff of 1515 profile to which the TH8RS is unsatisfactorily and temporarily clamped. I had adapted a 1/4-in thick aluminum monitor plate picked up on clearance from Monoprice to bolt the shifter on, but I can't seem to find it!
A few weeks ago, I treated myself to a new for 2022 MOMO 320mm Prototipo wheel and am now wishing I had opted for the 350mm version. LESSON: Do better research! Having both wheels kn hand, the 320mm Prototipo is only slightly different in feel than the 290mm Longacre I bought for 1970s-80s vintage open wheelers.
Taking another page from R/CHeliguy, a newly assembled Ender 3 Pro 3D printer should allow me to make for myself the T-slot and end covers to remedy sharp edges and and dust collecfion points.
In the process of building and rebuilding my rig I have learned to adapt 40-series metric components to my 1.5-in multiple extrusions and to work around not having an available slot when buying heavily discounted 3-, 2, or even 1-slot profiles from the defunct eBay 80/20 Garage Sale.
Unless you can weld or you're a carpenter, I don't believe there is a better way of constructing an adaptable rig that can grow with you than aluminum extrusion. I buy T-nuts and other knock-off plates and brackets, but I have a very soft spot for genuine 80/20 Inc. profiles and hardware including their flanged 5/16-in button head cap screw which does not require washers to avoid bottoming in the slot, and 80/20 economy T-nuts which have cleaner threads than their imitators as well.
I still try to come up with novel ways of joining profiles to make a more streamlined rig ala OSRs Ariel Atom inspired plans and plates as the relentless desire to improve continues.
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(Two minutes elapse while uploading photos.)
With the rig "finished"--for now (!) am taking photos along with a measuring tape to have handy for build #1000!
