The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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F301A6D6-4BF7-4402-91D4-D1B8441D56C3.png
Starts to look HOT
Just realized that I put the fans one down and one up, but maybe that will increase the airflow?
 
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I tried the RiftS briefly on someone else's SFX100, clarity improved but the camera tracking seems less ideal if you are on a bumpy surface. Eg driving a stiff suspension car on the carousel in Nordschliefe it bordered on impossible to see due to the amount of bouncing. I don't have that issue in Lighthouse tracked Pimax 5K+ or Vive OG. Otherwise though it seems pretty simple to set up and use / portable in ways that my devices are definitely not. It is a bit cheap feeling relative to the OG Rift, similar to other WMR devices.

I may be able to clarify as it might have been my rift s :) :)

The facial interface was not on properly, it was really peeving me off but once I got it on properly it stopeed bouncing around. turns out it wasnt the tracking but the actual front of headset bouncing as it didnt have good contact with head.
 
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I need a little information ...
on my db25 connector, the order of the numbers are reversed contrary to the photos of db25 that I saw ...
So how do I do, I respect even the numbers or I make my connection backwards?
thank you
1560946595-20190619-140925.jpg

connection-jpg.284007
 
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I'm still gathering parts but have a question about the O-RING on the shopping list...
It lists o-ring 23.5 x 30.5 x 3.5mm x4 and an Amazon set.
Am I right to assume it's 4 of only each of those sizes needed?
So I don't need to order a huge set and have loads spare?
I've found a seller on eBay UK (https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/sealsuppliesuk) Seal Supplies UK.
But they have various cross sections, which cross section is required: 1mm, 2mm or 3mm?
For the x12 o-rings it works out from this seller at about £6 delivered.
 
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You need 4 O rings. I ordered a kit with at least a thousand.

Yes, plenty spares :roflmao:

But the kit was only like 12 bucks so not a huge issue. But yes if you get the exact size you need you only need the 4, one for each actuator.
 
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I'm still gathering parts but have a question about the O-RING on the shopping list...
It lists o-ring 23.5 x 30.5 x 3.5mm x4 and an Amazon set.
Am I right to assume it's 4 of only each of those sizes needed?
So I don't need to order a huge set and have loads spare?
I've found a seller on eBay UK (https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/sealsuppliesuk) Seal Supplies UK.
But they have various cross sections, which cross section is required: 1mm, 2mm or 3mm?
For the x12 o-rings it works out from this seller at about £6 delivered.

I think you might be understanding the sizing designations of o-rings wrongly...23.5 x 30.5 x 3.5 is not a list of different sizes, but is standard sizing description of a single O-Ring.

That string of numbers means :

Inner Diameter of O-Ring : 23.5mm
Outer Diameter of O-Ring : 30.5mm
Material thickness : 3.5mm (1/2 the difference between OD and ID!)

So it's just 4 o-rings of the above specification that you need..
 
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I finished my connections, but looking at the pictures I wonder if I'm not mistaken ...
we have to connect the pin from a0 to a3 on the aduino?
looking at the different pictures I do not feel that they are connected ...

1560959008-20190619-174017.jpg

20181209_131128-e1544336648198.jpg

1560962955-arduino-pin.jpg
 
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How loud is that unit Pyronious? With all that equipment packed inside this rack, did you experience any problems caused by emi/interference?

The transformer doesn't make any noise at all, it's silent. There is a brief sound when you turn it on, but that's it.

The only thing I wasn't able to put inside the 9U rack was my Accuforce control box. It is very sensitive to EMI and has no internal shielding, so I had to set it on top of the 9U enclosure. The rest of the things (transformer, servo controllers, Arduino/Shield, USB hub, USB audio interface, transducer amplifier) seem to co-habitate just fine.
 
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I finished my connections, but looking at the pictures I wonder if I'm not mistaken ...
we have to connect the pin from a0 to a3 on the aduino?
looking at the different pictures I do not feel that they are connected ...

The more common approach seems to be to just have A0 going out to the safety switch, and the other side of the safety switch all commoned together. Thus A0 acts as a universal enable signal for all the motors together.

I presume having a0-a3 connected, in theory would allow shutdown/activation of individual motors, but in this application that's not particularly useful, and it makes a shutdown button easier to wire.
 
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Prusa i3 3d printer on order. What are the recommendations for brands of filament with this printer?

I’m in the UK

With my Prusa i3 I’ve had the best results with Extrudr PLA, very easy to print, good mechanical properties, tight diameter consistency and a nice matte finish.

More expensive than generic no name PLA, but it’s worth it in my opinion because of its excellent properties and I’ve never had a print fail too, it’s very forgiving of settings.

https://www.3djake.uk/extrudr/pla-nx-2-black
 
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