The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[sn4il]

The transformer doesn't make any noise at all, it's silent. There is a brief sound when you turn it on, but that's it.

Do you use a switch between transformer and servo drivers or they're hard wired straight to transformer? How do you distribute your ground? From transformer or 110V?
Thank you.

 

[HoiHman]

Prusa i3 3d printer on order. What are the recommendations for brands of filament with this printer?

I’m in the UK

I currently use Real filament PTEG for all my projects. Strong, durable, no warping and it sticks very good to the PEI sheet.

 

[Scoops]

Would you use PTEG for a first time 3D printer like me?

 

[diablo2112]

Spent about 3 weeks reading this thread and the SFX-100 wiki and website. Phew.

Took the plunge the last few days. Ordered up a PRUSA i3 Mk3s, the Kinetik 100x100x250 extrusions, and the motors/ball screws/mounts off aliexpress. Now to let it all come in and start learning my new hobby, 3D printing. Figured I'd source the actuators first, as they seem to have the longest lead time. The electronics/arduino end is something I've done before, and everything there I can get locally or through Amazon. Heck, it's not impossible for me to run a 220V feed to my sim room, just to eliminate a bit of clutter (and more heat generation).

No other reason to post, except to say thanks to everyone for all the great documentation. I've had an NLR v3 for a couple of years. Still not sure if I'll add the SFX to this rig for a combined unit, or just replace the v3 outright. Any recommendations here?

Current rig. Recently replaced my triples with an ultra wide (to save room, mainly). I race about 2/3 time in VR, anyway.

 

[BluePotato00]

Spent about 3 weeks reading this thread and the SFX-100 wiki and website. Phew.

Took the plunge the last few days. Ordered up a PRUSA i3 Mk3s, the Kinetik 100x100x250 extrusions, and the motors/ball screws/mounts off aliexpress. Now to let it all come in and start learning my new hobby, 3D printing. Figured I'd source the actuators first, as they seem to have the longest lead time. The electronics/arduino end is something I've done before, and everything there I can get locally or through Amazon. Heck, it's not impossible for me to run a 220V feed to my sim room, just to eliminate a bit of clutter (and more heat generation).

No other reason to post, except to say thanks to everyone for all the great documentation. I've had an NLR v3 for a couple of years. Still not sure if I'll add the SFX to this rig for a combined unit, or just replace the v3 outright. Any recommendations here?

Current rig. Recently replaced my triples with an ultra wide (to save room, mainly). I race about 2/3 time in VR, anyway.

Welcome to the club! I'm going on about 5 months with my working SFX-100 build and there have been no regrets. It's even easier now for new builders with the SFX Shield. I don't think my step-up converter emits much heat if that is a concern of yours.

May I ask how you plan on mounting the actuators to that rig?

 

[diablo2112]

That's the RSeat N1. I have 3 options to mount this to the rig:

1) RSeat has a motion base for the N-1 designed for DBox. I've written them about purchasing this. Adapting the SFX actuators to this looks pretty feasible; or
2) bashing some mounts on the current rig, probably angle iron welded/bolts to the frame; or
3) Ditching the N-1 entirely and moving to an 80:20 setup, probably the P1x.

That's way in the future. I'll figure that out when things get a bit closer to install.

Here's the N-1 motion base:

 

[Tim Palmgren]

Most of us coming from the NLM V3 have shifted the NLM on, you want your seat as low as possible and everyone eventually seems to make the same decision to sacrifice the surge of the NLM for the more direct / lower mount

 

[GFJunky]

Is there any documented guidance on optimum mounting locations for the actuators? I can see why seat low is good. I guess the smaller and squarer you can make the footprint the better to maximise the levels of movement. My current plan works out at 800x1000mm footprint (distance between actuator centers).

 

[sn4il]

I based my frame on these: 2'6" (762mm) x 3'6" (1066mm). Have no idea how good these numbers are. I'm about to find out

 

[NeedforSim]

Is there any documented guidance on optimum mounting locations for the actuators? I can see why seat low is good. I guess the smaller and squarer you can make the footprint the better to maximise the levels of movement. My current plan works out at 800x1000mm footprint (distance between actuator centers).

Hi

You are right, the closer the actuators are the better. Just take care that the front of the platform has enough clearence from the ground. This could help: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-151#post-2927432

 

[Specialist68]

distance is personal, when your rig is long enough 120 cm between actuators is fine
But most people have a short rig that's why they are on 90-100 cm and sitting almost on back actuators due lack of space

 

[Snajrog]

If anyone is looking for motivation I've got a bunch of quick videos of my sim with the SFX-100 on my YouTube page. I'll post more after my 18 year old daughter gives me a video editing lesson or two...
https://www.youtube.com/user/Margaritaman

 

[Snajrog]

distance is personal, when your rig is long enough 120 cm between actuators is fine
But most people have a short rig that's why they are on 90-100 cm and sitting almost on back actuators due lack of space

To your point I was able to get the rear actuators back about another 3" by tapping the 160/40 with an 8mm and bolting the angle brackets in. Works very well. And no darned funny bone elbow shots. I run my seat low between the rails so there we no way it was going to work in the normal position.

 

[GFJunky]

I like that idea. I was thinking of doing similar as currently my rig ends directly inline with the base of my seat so the actuators are going to be proper funny-bone-bashers!

 

[Jrnd]

Hello,
I'm sorry to intervene in the conversation, but I have a problem, and I checked many times without finding the solution ...
I just plugged 2 acuators to do the test, and after maybe 15 seconds I have one of the 2 displays that puts: AL-06
it does not work anymore, whereas for the first no worries ...
Do you have any idea what this could be? because I admit to being on the verge of nerve crisis lol
thank you

 

[Jrnd]

my servo actuator is well parameterized, I checked several times, and the gnd are well connected too ...
on the other hand, on the servo motor I have flashing dots between each digit / letter ...

 

[NeedforSim]

Hello,
I'm sorry to intervene in the conversation, but I have a problem, and I checked many times without finding the solution ...
I just plugged 2 acuators to do the test, and after maybe 15 seconds I have one of the 2 displays that puts: AL-06
it does not work anymore, whereas for the first no worries ...
Do you have any idea what this could be? because I admit to being on the verge of nerve crisis lol
thank you

Hi

I think this could help, please check page 32 of this manual: https://www.google.com/search?newwi...0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j33i299.cIi6scSO_jc

 

[Jrnd]

thank you for your return, I saw, al-06 is overload 2 ... but I do not have the solution

 

[BenKay]

thank you for your return, I saw, al-06 is overload 2 ... but I do not have the solution

The flashing dots are perfectly normal.

Ignore comments about encoder, it does seem to be overload related.
Your best test would be to take off the motor from your actuator, and test this independently from the rest of the actuator assembly.

That will narrow the problem down to something in the motor/driver/connections vs. something mechanical (causing an overload) in your actuator build.

 

[Jrnd]

The flashing dots are perfectly normal.

Ignore comments about encoder, it does seem to be overload related.
Your best test would be to take off the motor from your actuator, and test this independently from the rest of the actuator assembly.

That will narrow the problem down to something in the motor/driver/connections vs. something mechanical (causing an overload) in your actuator build.

ok thank you, I will dismount and redo the tests