The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Jrnd · Jun 25, 2019

I dismounted the actuator, it was turned manually, I saw no worries, it was easy to move from bottom to top.
By doing a test again, it is another actuator who has put in AL-06 message .... Can this come from a bad connection to the arduino?

BenKay · Jun 25, 2019

No I don't think it can be bad Arduino connection, but certainly bad connection between motor and driver.

You really need to do various fault finding steps to narrow down the faulty component.

First of all, do all the following WITHOUT linear actuators, just motors connected.

1. Connect drive controller 1 to motor 1 with cable-set 1
2. If error, connect drive controller 1 to motor 1 with cable-set 2 (if no error, then cable-set 1 is faulty).
3. If still error, connect driver controller 1 to motor 2 with cable-set 1 (if no error, then it is motor 1 that is faulty)
4. If still error, connect driver controller 2 to motor 1 with cable-set 1 (if no error, then it is driver controller 1 that is faulty).

This is the kind of process you will have to follow to narrow down your problem, standard trouble-shooting really, but with so many components potentially at fault, you do really need to be methodical in your testing.

Jrnd · Jun 25, 2019

BenKay said:
No I don't think it can be bad Arduino connection, but certainly bad connection between motor and driver.

You really need to do various fault finding steps to narrow down the faulty component.

First of all, do all the following WITHOUT linear actuators, just motors connected.

1. Connect drive controller 1 to motor 1 with cable-set 1
2. If error, connect drive controller 1 to motor 1 with cable-set 2 (if no error, then cable-set 1 is faulty).
3. If still error, connect driver controller 1 to motor 2 with cable-set 1 (if no error, then it is motor 1 that is faulty)
4. If still error, connect driver controller 2 to motor 1 with cable-set 1 (if no error, then it is driver controller 1 that is faulty).

This is the kind of process you will have to follow to narrow down your problem, standard trouble-shooting really, but with so many components potentially at fault, you do really need to be methodical in your testing.

Thank you, I will follow the procedure that you advise me, hoping to find the problem ... I think it will take a while, I'll do it tonight.

Mr Latte · Jun 25, 2019

What is the preferred choice?
Monitor, mounted to move with the rigs motion or static and on its own stand?

BluePotato00 · Jun 25, 2019

Mr Latte said:
What is the preferred choice?
Monitor, mounted to move with the rigs motion or static and on its own stand?

Static and on its own stand. The rig moves to harshly for me to feel comfortable mounting a monitor to the motion rig.

BenKay · Jun 25, 2019

Monitor on its own stand. 100%. I’d seriously have concerns about monitor longevity mounting it on a full motion rig.

HugoB · Jun 25, 2019

Scoops said:
Would you use PTEG for a first time 3D printer like me?

I'd go for PLA, it's easier to print and the developers of the SFX100 system used it, nobody has ever reported a part failing under prolonged use, it's perfect for this project.

But there's nothing wrong with PETG, I used it myself for the SFX100 parts, because I get some direct sunlight on my rig and I read somewhere that PLA degrades in the sun, PETG doesn't. Also PETG is stronger and less brittle so the screws insert into the printed parts are less likely to strip. Only downside with PETG compared to PLA is you need to lubricate the slider because it has a higher friction on the inside of the profile compared to PLA that slides better.

HoiHman · Jun 25, 2019

Mr Latte said:
What is the preferred choice?
Monitor, mounted to move with the rigs motion or static and on its own stand?

Definitely ON the rig, but with reduced motion profiles. When monitor is right behind the wheel, you are "almost in VR". If you play in the dark, you not seeing any movements, but you are feeling them. Everything is in sync. I could never get used to driving on a monitor after playing in VR, until i exchanged my static monitor for one on the rig.

But i have relatively cheap 34" curved with only cost 500 euro and would think twice about mounting the new samsung 49" on my rig and turn it way up.

HoiHman · Jun 25, 2019

HugoB said:
I'd go for PLA, it's easier to print and the developers of the SFX100 system used it, nobody has ever reported a part failing under prolonged use, it's perfect for this project.

But there's nothing wrong with PETG, I used it myself for the SFX100 parts, because I get some direct sunlight on my rig and I read somewhere that PLA degrades in the sun, PETG doesn't. Also PETG is stronger and less brittle so the screws insert into the printed parts are less likely to strip. Only downside with PETG compared to PLA is you need to lubricate the slider because it has a higher friction on the inside of the profile compared to PLA that slides better.

I was actually getting less warping and much better sticking to the print bed with PTEG instead of PLA. So in my opinion (with a Prusa) PTEG would be my preference to start printing with as a beginner.

Pyronious · Jun 25, 2019

I agree that mounting the monitor to the rig is preferred. I have a 34" ultrawide installed on mine, just behind the wheel. In a dark room it's wonderful - your brain just clicks over into believing you're in a car.

I do feel like the VESA mount alone is not quite enough support to make the monitor feel secure on the moving rig. My solution was to rest the bottom edge of the monitor on some 80/20 profile with a layer of high-density foam to prevent vibration/rattling. This gives the monitor additional bracing on the bottom.

diablo2112 · Jun 25, 2019

HugoB said:
Only downside with PETG compared to PLA is you need to lubricate the slider because it has a higher friction on the inside of the profile compared to PLA that slides better.

Thanks for this. I guess the best of all worlds would be PETG for most parts (strength, UV resistance) and PLA for the slider (lubrication, it's not exposed to UV).

diablo2112 · Jun 25, 2019

HoiHman said:
But i have relatively cheap 34" curved with only cost 500 euro and would think twice about mounting the new samsung 49" on my rig and turn it way up.

Ouch. I'm just starting my SFX-100 build, and I'm reading your post thinking yes, I'll just mount my monitor on the rig in a secure manner. That would be my new, 49" Samsung Ultrawide. Just kinda funny had that last little bit in there.

BTW, I've got the 49" mounted right behind my wheel on my current rig. It's wonderful here. Not quite the FOV of my prior triples, but a huge space savings, and the 144Hz and lack of bezels has its own appeal. (And I'm still debating keeping the RSeat N-1 or just going to an 80:20 rig to mount the SFX-100).

jv8 · Jun 26, 2019

For those who don't want to take on 3D printing as yet another hobby - I had a good experience with treatstock.com. On that site I selected the supplier "Modern Blacksmith 3D Printing Services". They worked with me on the custom slicer settings and then ran two printers 24/7 for almost a week (all SFX-100 parts plus shield box). I got the shipment of parts back 12 days from first contact. Everything looks good - the larger 100mm dimensions were spot on. The only slight issue I had is the sliders were 0.1mm to 0.2mm too wide so I will have to take a file to the grooves.

Total cost was $250. When you initially upload the files to treatstock.com the price estimate will be lower but after the SFX slicer settings the amount of material (and time) goes up. That adjustment is handled manually.

Saved me a ton of time and hassle! I have too many hobbies as it is!

Also Modern Blacksmith mentioned they could do faster turnaround if needed by allocating more than 2 printers per order.

minderacer · Jun 26, 2019

HoiHman said:
Definitely ON the rig, but with reduced motion profiles. When monitor is right behind the wheel, you are "almost in VR". If you play in the dark, you not seeing any movements, but you are feeling them. Everything is in sync. I could never get used to driving on a monitor after playing in VR, until i exchanged my static monitor for one on the rig.

But i have relatively cheap 34" curved with only cost 500 euro and would think twice about mounting the new samsung 49" on my rig and turn it way up.

I have to agree here. But I have the 49inch. I tend to run soft profile's tho. Having the monitor in sync with the rig is a must for me. It's the closest to the VR experience I've had with a monitor.

Davidhatton · Jun 26, 2019

looking for help with programming arundio
Pc sees the board on com 10 and ive set this on simfeedback but when i try to load the firmware i get the following error

ArduinoUploader.ArduinoUploaderException: No (unambiguous) virtual COM port detected (after 10000ms).

I have a flashimg yellow led on L and steady green on power but no tx or rx lights which i wouod expect to see when read/write is happening
I loaded simfeedback to a laptop and have the same results.
Now the error talks about a vitrual com port is there any way i can check this or or the arundio board to see if it is ok.

Thanks

SixDegreesOfFlight · Jun 26, 2019

What an amazing thread! I am back in the ring to build this simulator. Having built a 6DOF two years ago (

), it doesn't fit in my new townhouse. I am in Melbourne Aus, and want to get started ordering the main components with the intention of starting the build in October. I will read through the 252 pages, but to get me started what is the concensus about the two main components - the motors and extrusions - for us Aussies? Go with Aliexpress and kinetik? Advice and links would be really appreciated.

Tim Palmgren · Jun 27, 2019

SixDegreesOfFlight said:
What an amazing thread! I am back in the ring to build this simulator. Having built a 6DOF two years ago (

), it doesn't fit in my new townhouse. I am in Melbourne Aus, and want to get started ordering the main components with the intention of starting the build in October. I will read through the 252 pages, but to get me started what is the concensus about the two main components - the motors and extrusions - for us Aussies? Go with Aliexpress and kinetik? Advice and links would be really appreciated.

Go with the contact in the shopping list as David helps you ensure that the servos and drivers come in 'favourably' with respect to customs charges, I have recently checked on prices as well and they are generally among the cheapest on there anyway. My NTL Bearing package definitely has a dud bearing or two in it so there I will be less of a stellar review for NTL, but that said they have taken so many orders now that kinks would likely be largely worked out and they could probably fulfill the order in their sleep by now as soon as you mention SFX100, I would just carefully check the screws and bearings to make sure they move freely and get in touch with them if there is a dud or two in there. I can't be bothered disassembling mine to make them quieter as they work fine mechanically, are just a bit noisier in operation. Kinetic was the worst of the lot to deal with in terms of value for money etc (189 euro to ship economy to NZ for me) but to use the unaltered slider designs etc that is the extrusion you need so no alternatives as yet far as I am aware.

anton_Chez · Jun 27, 2019

@SixDegreesOfFlight Fellow Melbourne boy here, howdy!

Definitely just go with the standard options and save yourself a lot of hassle. Prepare for a month lead time on the profile. The servo's were around half that. David will also be able to split the shipments in two parts so that you avoid the import fees. At least he's done that for a few of us here already. Hopefully he continues to do so.

Ozpilot · Jun 27, 2019

SixDegreesOfFlight said:
What an amazing thread! I am back in the ring to build this simulator. Having built a 6DOF two years ago (

), it doesn't fit in my new townhouse. I am in Melbourne Aus, and want to get started ordering the main components with the intention of starting the build in October. I will read through the 252 pages, but to get me started what is the concensus about the two main components - the motors and extrusions - for us Aussies? Go with Aliexpress and kinetik? Advice and links would be really appreciated.

I'm from Australia as well.
In relation to the profile, there is now an alternative. It is in number 10 on the documentation page:

https://opensfx.com/documentation/

If you enquire through the "Item" web site it refers you to the Australian supplier who is in Melbourne. Their name is Modular Components & Automation. They (Item) are a high end supplier so the profile price seems high but when you take into account the freight costs they end up less expensive than Kinetic.

Other than that, the "standard options" seem to be best.

SixDegreesOfFlight · Jun 27, 2019

Thank you everyone. I really appreciate you replying. I have ordered the leadscrews and bearings from Amy who sent me the list after I wrote it was for SFX100. David was great too. He has split the order for me. If someone else reads this thread, it was much easier to pay David with Paypal than with Aliexpress.