The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Black_rat]

I think which printer and which software may help to point you in the right direction, I have been through and out the other end but it is a big learning curve, first step a bit of calibration https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/

Then work on temperatures for your filament, also consider the SD card, the one that came with the printer is not always the best to print from. It does make sense eventually and a great sense of achievment once its all hooked up and running

 

[Shrive81]

All that info would probably help huh hahahaha

Printer: Ender 5 ( basically a ender 3 redesigned )
Fillament: PLA 1.75
Slicer: simplify 3d

 

[Black_rat]

Lots of stringing may indicate hot end being too hot, but make sure you have a reasonable profile and you set the temps, suggest 200-210 as an initial trial, but these 3d printers all seem to have thier own character

 

[Vincent Dimaio]

on cura software for layers and perimeters:
- perimeters : 8 mm
- Horizontal shells Top :12 , Bottom : 12

my setup is correct ?

for infill setup, what setup for Solid infill every ?

 

[Specialist68]

on cura software for layers and perimeters:
- perimeters : 8 mm
- Horizontal shells Top :12 , Bottom : 12

my setup is correct ?

for infill setup, what setup for Solid infill every ?

Solid infill every xxx layers is a Simplify3D option , I don't think it can be done with Cura
Someone correct me if i'am wrong

 

[Shrive81]

ya I am using the setting that they posted for the simplify 3D and running the nozzle temp at 210 and bed at 60

 

[UncleGit]

So everything except the bearings has arrived and I'm getting ready to start the 3D printing marathon - how long did everyone else take to get the bearings from NTL ?

I ordered about a week and a half ago.

I've quite a bit of work I can do now with the electrical and getting it into the 6U chassis before I need to start work on actuators I guess.

Looking forwards to the build.

 

[anton_Chez]

Around that. Mine were sent over new year so the time frame is a little skewed. But I don't think it was longer than 2 weeks, not at all. Asia to Australia.

 

[ThugUK]

I'm sure mine took 3 or 4 weeks (UK).

 

[Pyronious]

How long did everyone else take to get the bearings from NTL ?

Here were my delivery times to USA West Coast:

Servo Motors (Mia Chu / Master Jiang 3SMT <miaju@foxmail.com>)
Ordered on Feb 21, 2019
Delivered on Feb 28,2019 (7 days)

Aluminum Extrusions (Kinetik MSystem <info@haec-aluminium.de>)
Ordered on Feb 21, 2019
Delivered on March 7, 2019 (14 days)

Bearing parts (Amy / NTL Bearing <amy@ntl-bearing.com>)
Orderd on Feb 21, 2019
Delivered March 5, 2019 (12 days)

 

[anton_Chez]

The ever organised and analytical Pyronious.

Love it!

 

[UncleGit]

Well it's been 14 days now - so I'll file under "Any day now" since I'm in Portland OR.

Excellent - time to get cracking doing the heliocoils and electrical work.

 

[Flex33]

Anyone have any feedback yet with how the Rift S performs with the motion sim? I have a CV1 but am holding back upgrading..

 

[Tim Palmgren]

Anyone have any feedback yet with how the Rift S performs with the motion sim? I have a CV1 but am holding back upgrading..

I tried the RiftS briefly on someone else's SFX100, clarity improved but the camera tracking seems less ideal if you are on a bumpy surface. Eg driving a stiff suspension car on the carousel in Nordschliefe it bordered on impossible to see due to the amount of bouncing. I don't have that issue in Lighthouse tracked Pimax 5K+ or Vive OG. Otherwise though it seems pretty simple to set up and use / portable in ways that my devices are definitely not. It is a bit cheap feeling relative to the OG Rift, similar to other WMR devices.

 

[Flex33]

I tried the RiftS briefly on someone else's SFX100, clarity improved but the camera tracking seems less ideal if you are on a bumpy surface. Eg driving a stiff suspension car on the carousel in Nordschliefe it bordered on impossible to see due to the amount of bouncing. I don't have that issue in Lighthouse tracked Pimax 5K+ or Vive OG. Otherwise though it seems pretty simple to set up and use / portable in ways that my devices are definitely not. It is a bit cheap feeling relative to the OG Rift, similar to other WMR devices.

Yes the tracking was what I was concerned about. Maybe I should stick with the CV1 for now then.

 

[dedraro]

Guys sorry, on pyronious board the DB25 are marked motor 1, 2, 3 and 4, but how are they compared to the position of the servos on the rig?
They are like this?
Motor 1= Front left (driver side)
Motor 2= Rear left
Motor 3= Front right (passenger side)
Motor 4= Rear right
Thanks

 

[anton_Chez]

Pretty sure it's FR, RR, RL, FL as 1, 2, 3, 4.

 

[saxxon66]

Motor Setup

Motor 1 = Front Right
Motor 2 = Rear Right
Motor 3 = Rear Left
Motor 4 = Front Left

*all from Riders view

Source: https://opensfx.com/build-process-controller-wiring/

 

[ThugUK]

Sit in your rig and hold the shield in your hands the correct way up (so the wording is straight) and that is the way to wire it up. So the top left (connection 4) is front left, the top right (connection 1) is front right, etc.

 

[Pyronious]