The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

ScottSonder · Mar 14, 2019

BluePotato00 said:
Skip Barber at Summit Point this week. Also managed a 2nd place in the series this morning. All cars are amazing in the motion rig, but to be honest, the Dallara F3 and Formula Renault 3.5 are the most exciting open-wheelers in the motion rig with the formula preset that was shared on Discord. Maybe I just need a better preset for the Skip Barber (or the patience to work through all the settings and build my own).

I thought you meant the iRacing setup for a second, I started writing up advice for those cars lol..

Great to hear the Skippy is a fun car in the SFX 100. I'll have to snag that preset you're talking about when I'm up and running. I love the close pack racing, as exhilarating as oval without the cautions. On that note... How're ovals? I imagine some extreme banking being a ton of fun.

ScottSonder · Mar 14, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
So minor speed bump, I have no hex keys that fit the thread inserts, what’s the exact size? I’ve got lots just too small and one bigger!

It's an M8, but a 1/4" allen key which is supposed to fit all the way through the insert is the way to know if you have the bad helicoils or not. Or if your eye is sharp enough to detect the different threading in the helicoils from minderacer's picture.

ScottSonder · Mar 14, 2019

minderacer said:
So I was playing around with a rig designing software, stumbled across this! Maytec makes this interesting "The Telescopic System".
http://www.maytec.com.de/index.php?id=80&L=1
I think the 80X80 would work but would need to develop/design a new slide, which shouldn't be hard sense they're designed for 40 series extrusion the slide through.. This would make the actuators a little more compact too. The software claims that they come in at $24 per 250mm.

It would be awesome if we start developing other actuator designs. That 'redneck' 3D printed actuator in particular looks amazing.

minderacer · Mar 14, 2019

ScottSonder said:
It would be awesome if we start developing other actuator designs. That 'redneck' 3D printed actuator in particular looks amazing.

Have that pesky work stuff that came up, but I'll look into it. The only issue I see is it's that you can't directly order via a website so it's probably a specialty item, that you have to get through a distributor. But once you find one willing to ship etc. Believe they should be available everywhere, making shipping cheaper for everyone.

Flag Ghost · Mar 14, 2019

fyi.. may be trying some of that igus iglide filament tomorrow for printing the sliders. Will compare it to PLA.

Steve D · Mar 14, 2019

Antracing said:
I could do with some help, If I try to turn up the settings any more than around 0.68 overall I get a really bad "bouncing" effect under hard braking. (iracing) I cannot pin down what setting is causing it.
I've tried looking at the red bars live but still cannot see which effect would cause it. Its a shame as with the other settings so low the overall effect is not so good.
Its so bad with hard braking it makes my vision go bad, light braking is ok - but you dont stop in time

To clarify i use vr and its hard to see the live effects on a screen in vr.

What are you Min and Max speed settings? Try reducing both and see if that makes a difference.

Otherwise, try disabling or muting (real-time data will still be output) each effect, one at a time and see if the "bouncing" disappears. (If present in the IR profile, check Surge, Pitch, Heave)

If you find which one it is and you are already setting a low intensity value, you could rework that effect and reduce the actuator travel. (Drag the left / right points on the graph to a lower value)

HugoB · Mar 14, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
So minor speed bump, I have no hex keys that fit the thread inserts, what’s the exact size? I’ve got lots just too small and one bigger!

A bit extender should fit, if you take a longer one you can make it go all the way through and into the profile to keep it straight at the same time.

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-simulator-thread.159524/page-33#post-2865175

michael hensen · Mar 14, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
So minor speed bump, I have no hex keys that fit the thread inserts, what’s the exact size? I’ve got lots just too small and one bigger!

Just take an M8 bolt and an M8 nut, thread the nut up the bolt, not all the way, leave some space as you need to loosen the nut in the end, and screw the bolt in the insert up to the Nut.. then turn the nut clockwise.. It will turn the insert into the aluminum..

You might want to use a long bolt so that you can have it straighter..
I did it this way as I had the 'wrong' inserts.. this method took me an hour to thread them all

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-166#post-2931986

ScottSonder · Mar 14, 2019

michael hensen said:
Just take an M8 bolt and an M8 nut, thread the nut up the bolt, not all the way, leave some space as you need to loosen the nut in the end, and screw the bolt in the insert up to the Nut.. then turn the nut clockwise.. It will turn the insert into the aluminum..

You might want to use a long bolt so that you can have it straighter..
I did it this way as I had the 'wrong' inserts.. this method took me an hour to thread them all

Nice, that's 3 methods builders have used if they received incorrect inserts. 7-16/20 tap, this method, or if you have any correct inserts, use them to start the thread for each hole and back out to make it easier to go in with the incorrect insert. Wiki material?

michael hensen · Mar 14, 2019

ScottSonder said:
Nice, that's 3 methods builders have used if they received incorrect inserts. 7-16/20 tap, this method, or if you have any correct inserts, use them to start the thread for each hole and back out to make it easier to go in with the incorrect insert. Wiki material?

Well whatever gets the suckers in

Mine are in.. well stripped 1 .. so still 31 in .. and keep the missing one at the bottom.

ScottSonder · Mar 14, 2019

michael hensen said:
Well whatever gets the suckers in Mine are in.. well stripped 1 .. so still 31 in .. and keep the missing one at the bottom.

You're short 1? If my pack ever arrives, I ordered 50, so I should have extras for those in need.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 14, 2019

Fortunately I found a socket wrench with the correct size and that was nice an easy, still took a while to do by hand but all in now. Still useful info if I’m ever missing the right attachment.

Got the first slider printing, I’m using the free white PLA+ filament that came with it, decided just to go straight for it without checking the calibration which could be my downfall!

Flag Ghost · Mar 14, 2019

What L brackets are you guys using to connect the 100mm alum actuator profile to your rig? The spacing won't work with my typical 80/20 40mm based L brackets.

ScottSonder · Mar 14, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Fortunately I found a socket wrench with the correct size and that was nice an easy, still took a while to do by hand but all in now. Still useful info if I’m ever missing the right attachment.

Got the first slider printing, I’m using the free white PLA+ filament that came with it, decided just to go straight for it without checking the calibration which could be my downfall!

I feel like these are famous last words.

What's your bed/adhesion method? Warping seems like the most dangerous issue for new printers. At least it was for me. The fixed bearing mount has contact points close to the edge, going to need to have a solid method to fight it. Just thoughts from a guy who spent the last week working it out at least.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 14, 2019

ScottSonder said:
I feel like these are famous last words.

What's your bed/adhesion method? Warping seems like the most dangerous issue for new printers. At least it was for me. The fixed bearing mount has contact points close to the edge, going to need to have a solid method to fight it. Just thoughts from a guy who spent the last week working it out at least.

I’ve just gone straight onto the bed, can’t see any warping on the slider but I’ll let it cool and then see how it’s turned out.

Used some rubbing alcohol after yesterday’s test run to clean the glass ultrabase but that’s all I’ve done other than spending a while getting the levelling perfect.

Tim Palmgren · Mar 14, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
What L brackets are you guys using to connect the 100mm alum actuator profile to your rig? The spacing won't work with my typical 80/20 40mm based L brackets.

I bought another 16 brackets with my Kinetic order and it ran me something like another 120 euro lol, I could probably have found something cheaper but I figured I would just get it over with in the one shipment.

minderacer · Mar 14, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
What L brackets are you guys using to connect the 100mm alum actuator profile to your rig? The spacing won't work with my typical 80/20 40mm based L brackets.

I believe most were using the brackets sim-lab uses.. which are still 40 series brackets. But I'm not %100 sure.

JohnnyV · Mar 14, 2019

You can just use the normal 40x40 L brackets. You can also use them with slot 8 M8 T nuts in the actuator part, but is better if you use slot 10 M8 T nuts in the actuator, with atleast 4 L brackets per actuator

ScottSonder · Mar 14, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
I’ve just gone straight onto the bed, can’t see any warping on the slider but I’ll let it cool and then see how it’s turned out.

Used some rubbing alcohol after yesterday’s test run to clean the glass ultrabase but that’s all I’ve done other than spending a while getting the levelling perfect.

Ah, you're on glass? You're fine then. I would just add 'brim' adhesion instead of a skirt for the bearing mounts. I started on aluminum like a chump. Aqua net seems good to too if you have issues with adhesion, they had cans at my local walmart.

acekrusty23 · Mar 14, 2019

Hi guys. I’ve got everything ready to go, except for two Servos. I have two motors assembled and all electronics finished. Can I do a test with just two motors? I just want to check if I’ve wired everything up correctly. Thanks.

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

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