The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[minderacer]

That is a nice looking rig ! - there are 2 things you need to achieve, attaching the actuators and making sure that your rig is stiff enough / does not twist when in motion. You could solve both problems by making a surrounding frame out of 40/120 ( you do not need 40/160 - serious overkill ) with two 40/40 cross beams underneath to rest your rig on... or you could fix your rig directly to the 40/120 and avoid using the 40/40. Then all you have to do is mount the actuators on the 40/120 frame. Whatever you do try to get your seating position as low as sensibly possible relative to the actuators - gives a more "in the car" feeling.

 

[minderacer]

I was thinking about building a cross member system, the issue I saw was, trying to get the seat low.. to get that feeling everyone's talking about. Is there a standard hight above the bottom of the actuator that we should be shooting for? On average how high above are your seats etc.

 

[minderacer]

Well literally just did a Google search and look what I found!!
https://8020.net/catalog/category/view/id/50/?color=15&series=32

Which will either allow me to just use a cross member with 40x40 or 40x 80

 

[minderacer]

I'm a bit obsessed with getting rid of the last bit of corner warp on the 3D printed parts so I threw this printer enclosure together this morning. Wow, is it hot in there !! Maybe too hot.. need to cut more vents in the top. Used a roll of cheap air filled foil insulation and gaffers tape... worked a charm.

View attachment 296232

Don't over heat your stepper motor drivers, make sure they can get a supply of fresh air. For you guys having warping issues have you tried to use brims yet?

 

[Furnace Inferno]

My Kinetik parts have arrived out of the blue and they are 250mm, phew .

Also the inserts seem to be the ones with the hex pattern all the way through.

 

[Flag Ghost]

Don't over heat your stepper motor drivers, make sure they can get a supply of fresh air. For you guys having for you guys having warping issues have you tried to use brims yet?

It's a good idea I just hate using them.

 

[DotComRich]

Currently I have 4 Buttkicker mini LFE's mounted on my rig, one in each corner.
I'm also in the process of buying the SFX100.

Do the buttkickers have any added value when you also have the SFX100, or is it negligible ?
If it has a very small to no added value, I can sell them so I can atleast buy someting to eat again

I would keep at least two maybe even 3 if you do a lot of rally. One for Seat or Chassis, one for pedals and one for shifter if you do a lot of rally. I always know right away when my transducers aren't on and immediately pause and turn them on before I race. I have mine tuned very heavily for engine harmonics in simvibe, as well as things like road texture. They are still a must imo.

 

[Jean-Paul Lanaux]

That makes me worry. I'm still waiting for my package. It was shipped on March 6th. I will report back when I get it.
I'm also building full redneck version of actuator based on 20mm ball screw and 40mm shaft.
I replaced aluminum profile with 4 12mm rods and 3d printed case.
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/New20MM2.jpg
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5685.JPEG
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5689.JPEG

I believe same can be done to original SFX-100.
sn4il

I really like this design. The refinements coming from the on-line community is amazing.

 

[Jean-Paul Lanaux]

Thanks to the originator, to the team which created this project, and all in the community. I am finished to the point that the system is up and operational. This was a very satisfying project to build. Building simulators is a fantastic hobby that touches on so much technology and introduces so many valuable topics: computers, design, engineering, circuits, power, materials, coding, mathematics, etc.

 

[Jean-Paul Lanaux]

If anybody needs to 3d print a electrical box to mount their Emergency Stop button, here you go.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3488566

 

[michael hensen]

for whomever has the 'wrong' inserts and are struggling to get them in.
I've seen this somewhere before but couldn't find it anymore, so it is not my idea..

Drill the inserts in as straight as possible.. mine went in for about 1 turn :-(
then take a M8 bolt and 2 nuts, leave a little thread at the end and lock the 2 nuts together..
Now you can force them in .. loosen the top nut before trying to unscrew the bolt.. otherwise you might unscrew the insert.. (although this shouldn't be a problem). It might be that you cannot get them flush against the top of the aluminum, but in the worst case you can widen the hole in the plastic with a m12 drill and let the remaining inserts sink into the plastic.
I hope this helps, !

I used 2 wrenches to turn it all tight in, with 2 wrenches the force is not that much.. ..It is a bit more work but not as hard as it might look.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

@o Tiger Feet o what were your Cura settings and did you use the stock SD card download it update to a newer version?

This is what ive been using on the Anycubic and Cura. The settings are a mixture of what ive seen other people using for all sorts of projects.

I used the stock card to transfer the prints from PC to Printer. I did update the firmware half way through my prints via USB... just purely out of interest... I didnt see any difference.

Regarding the height on the extruder to the print bed, I found a post it note folded in half was bob on.

 

[sn4il]

Has anyone tried sliders printed with Igus Iglide Filament?
https://www.igus.com/product/700

 

[BenKay]

Has anyone tried sliders printed with Igus Iglide Filament?
https://www.igus.com/product/700

I doubt it, the PLA to be honest is perfectly fine. Those who have run the actuators the longest, have disassembled and inspected PLA sliders and seen almost no wear.
I would imagine the price of a roll of that Igus filament would make you fall of your chair.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

This is what ive been using on the Anycubic and Cura. The settings are a mixture of what ive seen other people using for all sorts of projects.

I used the stock card to transfer the prints from PC to Printer. I did update the firmware half way through my prints via USB... just purely out of interest... I didnt see any difference.

Regarding the height on the extruder to the print bed, I found a post it note folded in half was bob on.


View attachment 296291

Awesome, I know what I’m doing later!

 

[sn4il]

It's $59 per spool. I did print my set with Inland PLA (http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/PrintedParts.jpg). I love this filament, its cheap, easy to work with and provides great finish and details. $14.99 at Micro Center.
Did anyone check the wear on aluminum profile?
I think I would give it a try, I managed to print a test part with their free sample filament.
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5614.JPEG

 

[sn4il]

EDIT
This DID NOT WORK with PetG. Unfortunately this didn’t take the last bit of warping out like I had hoped. May try a skirt although I’m afraid I’ll catch a draft.

What is your bed temp? Are you printing with cooling fan on? If yes, which layer the fan kicks in?

 

[Flag Ghost]

What is your bed temp? Are you printing with cooling fan on? If yes, which layer the fan kicks in?

Bed temp 80C / Aquanet. Layer 2 fan on at only 10%. Enclosure was keeping ambient temp at 115F. I don't think PetG cares. Results were identical. Everything is usable just not perfect.

 

[C64]

Did anyone check the wear on aluminum profile?

Yes - no obvious wear on the profile after 4 months of running for 1-2 hours per day.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Checked my extrusion, one is perfect, two have a few scuffs and one has a corner dented but all fine really, it’s aluminium extrusion at the end of the day so for me I’m not expecting it to be perfect like a piece of furniture.

Will get the motors ordered at the weekend along with the Amazon Arduino bits and then hopefully the NTL parts and servos will arrive by the time I’ve finished 3D printing and I’ll just have to clean and screw it all together.

Forgot to ask @o Tiger Feet o did you need to calibrate the sizing or anything?