The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 13, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Forgot to ask @o Tiger Feet o did you need to calibrate the sizing or anything?

Im not entirely sure what you mean by that... I did check the extrusion rate which was pretty much bob on. However, I am having to sand my sliders a fraction to make them fit. Ideally, I would like to resize dimensions of the STL file to make them print slightly narrower while keeping the internals the same. But I havnt a clue how to do that..... Sanding is quite time consuming.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 13, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
Im not entirely sure what you mean by that... I did check the extrusion rate which was pretty much bob on. However, I am having to sand my sliders a fraction to make them fit. Ideally, I would like to resize dimensions of the STL file to make them print slightly narrower while keeping the internals the same. But I havnt a clue how to do that..... Sanding is quite time consuming.

I’ve seen talk of people only printing the bottom few layers to make sure the dimensions are good and changing if need be. I assumed it had something to do with calibrating the printer so it prints the right size.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 13, 2019

That would make sense, however I dont know how you would change the external dimension without affecting the overall scale. Im not sure what the accuracy of the extrusion is but if you take the slider for example. The external dimensions are 51x51mm... Mine have printed at exactly that, but I still have to sand them. It could well be the alu that is a tiny fraction out.....

ScottSonder · Mar 13, 2019

minderacer said:
Don't over heat your stepper motor drivers, make sure they can get a supply of fresh air. For you guys having warping issues have you tried to use brims yet?

Brim is the answer. I got a perfect print off painter's tape with it. With PLA, running the bed at 70c helps a lot I think.

ScottSonder · Mar 13, 2019

This is a tough and anxious wait on the Kinetik shipment, maan. Order seems to be going on a little too long, 2/26 paid, 3/01 shipped. The tracking number went dark after leaving Germany. Ships by national post from there and no updates on that side either.

Has anyone had success with that Kinetik tracking information? I just have nothing else to worry about anymore besides these guys. Orders have definitely arrived sooner than mine, but of course any number of delays could happen. One being that my unit/apartment is immediately listed after my name...

Just wondering if this tracking number ever shows a delivery, or if anyone has even gotten a tracking number before?

saxxon66 · Mar 13, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
That would make sense, however I dont know how you would change the external dimension without affecting the overall scale. Im not sure what the accuracy of the extrusion is but if you take the slider for example. The external dimensions are 51x51mm... Mine have printed at exactly that, but I still have to sand them. It could well be the alu that is a tiny fraction out.....

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/amp/

Furnace Inferno · Mar 13, 2019

ScottSonder said:
This is a tough and anxious wait on the Kinetik shipment, maan. Order seems to be going on a little too long, 2/26 paid, 3/01 shipped. The tracking number went dark after leaving Germany. Ships by national post from there and no updates on that side either.

Has anyone had success with that Kinetik tracking information? I just have nothing else to worry about anymore besides these guys. Orders have definitely arrived sooner than mine, but of course any number of delays could happen. One being that my unit/apartment is immediately listed after my name...

Just wondering if this tracking number ever shows a delivery, or if anyone has even gotten a tracking number before?

I didn’t get anything it just arrived, website still said in progress and nothing else.

saxxon66 said:
https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/amp/

View attachment 296332

Were your inner dimensions measured from the inserts whole edges (narrowest point)? Mine measure as 50cm so would that mean I’d need to remove 1cm from the outer dimensions, not had a proper look yet, just printing the test print.

HugoB · Mar 13, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
Im not entirely sure what you mean by that... I did check the extrusion rate which was pretty much bob on. However, I am having to sand my sliders a fraction to make them fit. Ideally, I would like to resize dimensions of the STL file to make them print slightly narrower while keeping the internals the same. But I havnt a clue how to do that..... Sanding is quite time consuming.

Try playing with your ‘filament diameter’

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-simulator-thread.159524/page-79#post-2891398

You can get your sliders to fit perfectly without having to sandpaper them. You shouldn’t change the dimensions of the STL file. Just try increasing the ‘filament diameter’ in your slicer (by 0.02mm), the 3d parts will come out less thick!

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 13, 2019

I'm definitely going to visit the calibration again. I've calibrated 10000s of testing instruments over the years so things like this really bug me. With such fine margins it does take much.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 13, 2019

I’m confused by how I’m meant to adjust settings, the owls have just finished with a print out the box. How do I adjust settings with Cura?!

I’ve plugged the printer into my PC and it says there are no drivers, I then plug the SD card into the PC via the USB adapter and it has all the files on there for Mac only, I’m downloading the windows ones from the site which I assume is fine, just odd there are only Mac ones.

How does Cura work do I change the settings and then it gets saved to the printer/sd card?

Dennis Karlsson · Mar 13, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
I’m confused by how I’m meant to adjust settings, the owls have just finished with a print out the box. How do I adjust settings with Cura?!

I’ve plugged the printer into my PC and it says there are no drivers, I then plug the SD card into the PC via the USB adapter and it has all the files on there for Mac only, I’m downloading the windows ones from the site which I assume is fine, just odd there are only Mac ones.

How does Cura work do I change the settings and then it gets saved to the printer/sd card?

You load the STL file into Cura. Do your settings and export to the sdcard (gcode file).
Put the sdcard into the 3D-printer and start the print.

You need to level the printer before you start.

There is no need to have the printer connected to the computer at any time.

ScottSonder · Mar 13, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
I’m confused by how I’m meant to adjust settings, the owls have just finished with a print out the box. How do I adjust settings with Cura?!

I’ve plugged the printer into my PC and it says there are no drivers, I then plug the SD card into the PC via the USB adapter and it has all the files on there for Mac only, I’m downloading the windows ones from the site which I assume is fine, just odd there are only Mac ones.

How does Cura work do I change the settings and then it gets saved to the printer/sd card?

Yeah, you generate a .gcode file from Cura and save it to the card.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 13, 2019

Dennis Karlsson said:
You load the STL file into Cura. Do your settings and export to the sdcard (gcode file).
Put the sdcard into the 3D-printer and start the print.

You need to level the printer before you start.

There is no need to have the printer connected to the computer at any time.

Yeh done all the levelling on my test owl, first attempt was too high, second too low and now just right.

Presumably once on the card all the settings you put in Cura will transfer across as part of the gcode? I don’t need to put it a material in the options outside of the bed temp and nozzle temp right?

Sorry for all the questions, pretty sure it’s ready to go start pumping out pieces now perhaps but don’t want to start prematurely and waste material.

Dennis Karlsson · Mar 13, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Yeh done all the levelling on my test owl, first attempt was too high, second too low and now just right.

Presumably once on the card all the settings you put in Cura will transfer across as part of the gcode? I don’t need to put it a material in the options outside of the bed temp and nozzle temp right?

Sorry for all the questions, pretty sure it’s ready to go start pumping out pieces now perhaps but don’t want to start prematurely and waste material.

All settings for the print is done in Cura. As temps and wall thickness and print bed size. Everything is done in Cura.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 13, 2019

Dennis Karlsson said:
All settings for the print is done in Cura. As temps and wall thickness and print bed size. Everything is done in Cura.

Ok sweet, should be good to go but will have to wait until tomorrow. I’ll do a quick test of the slider first and see how the sizing is and start proper on Friday.

ScottSonder · Mar 13, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Ok sweet, should be good to go but will have to wait until tomorrow. I’ll do a quick test of the slider first and see how the sizing is and start proper on Friday.

You may want to hop into the Discord now. There's a 3D printing channel that's been quite helpful to me so far, and I'd be happy to pass any tips along. Went from warped out parts that would break the bed trying to remove, to baby bottom smooth with perfect adhesion. Lots of testing and tinkering, but this is probably one of the skills that'll give back the most after we're all done with our SFX builds.

anton_Chez · Mar 14, 2019

@ScottSonder I wouldn't worry yet about the profiles. Mine took a full month to get to me after payment. Shipping number was the same as yours, no activity for ages.

It's just the way it is with them. After a month, then worry. No one here has NOT received them, just takes a whiiiiiiiiiiille.

HugoB · Mar 14, 2019

I’m on holiday for three weeks in beautiful South Africa, but I miss my SFX100 motion rig..

that’s how good it is.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 14, 2019

ScottSonder said:
You may want to hop into the Discord now. There's a 3D printing channel that's been quite helpful to me so far, and I'd be happy to pass any tips along. Went from warped out parts that would break the bed trying to remove, to baby bottom smooth with perfect adhesion. Lots of testing and tinkering, but this is probably one of the skills that'll give back the most after we're all done with our SFX builds.

I don’t actually have discord even though I know everyone is using it on PC these days. I’ll have a play just so I can ask the right questions re-sizing if it comes out wrong.

Question, can I use GT85 to lube the inserts or do I need something thicker?

jimbraj · Mar 14, 2019

sn4il said:
It's $59 per spool. I did print my set with Inland PLA (http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/PrintedParts.jpg). I love this filament, its cheap, easy to work with and provides great finish and details. $14.99 at Micro Center.
Did anyone check the wear on aluminum profile?
I think I would give it a try, I managed to print a test part with their free sample filament.
http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/SFX/IMG_5614.JPEG

I had terrible luck with a roll of black inland pla. Hopefully it was just that roll because i got a few others.