The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Flag Ghost · Mar 14, 2019

JohnnyV837 said:
You can just use the normal 40x40 L brackets. You can also use them with slot 8 M8 T nuts in the actuator part, but is better if you use slot 10 M8 T nuts in the actuator, with atleast 4 L brackets per actuator

My 40 series L brackets are made to fit 40 series not 50 series. The hole won't line up as it's 25mm from the base as opposed to normally 20mm.

Flag Ghost · Mar 15, 2019

A helpful 3D printing hint -

If your waiting for your bed to cool down to get your print to release and your impatient or the thing just doesn't want to let go....
Hold a can of compressed air upside down and spray the refrigerant around the edge of the print a few times. It will pop loose every time.

sjb266 · Mar 15, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
My 40 series L brackets are made to fit 40 series not 50 series. The hole won't line up as it's 25mm from the base as opposed to normally 20mm.

That’s what your 3D printer is for.. make some spacers like I did..

A 3D printer resolves most parts related issues I have now days.. I just make my own parts for everything

BluePotato00 · Mar 15, 2019

ScottSonder said:
On that note... How're ovals? I imagine some extreme banking being a ton of fun.

The only "oval" racing I've done in the motion rig is when the pickup trucks were at Lime Rock last season! I did some road racing in an oval series to earn some iRating. Certainly not as nimble as any road car.

I've also done about 10 dirt oval races in it using the Spring 360/405 (I think those are the numbers). Those are a lot of fun to feel the gentle controlled slides.

Flag Ghost · Mar 15, 2019

sjb266 said:
That’s what your 3D printer is for.. make some spacers like I did..

A 3D printer resolves most parts related issues I have now days.. I just make my own parts for everything

Sure but not comfortable introducing a plastic spacer into that high load joint. These plastics compress over time if under stress in a small area.

sjb266 · Mar 15, 2019

Mine don't...

Flag Ghost · Mar 15, 2019

sjb266 said:
Mine don't...

PLA Creep - Just the nature of PLA over time. PetG is a bit better. I would check over time to make sure play isn't creeping in. It may be so slow as not to be an issue. If I can't find some appropriate brackets I will go ahead w/ it.

Pyronious · Mar 15, 2019

Antracing said:
I had this the other week and even though my rift was 3 years old and really well used oculus replaced it with a new one.

That's great news! I wonder if they are trying to burn through inventory now that the new model is on the horizon.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 15, 2019

ScottSonder said:
Ah, you're on glass? You're fine then. I would just add 'brim' adhesion instead of a skirt for the bearing mounts. I started on aluminum like a chump. Aqua net seems good to too if you have issues with adhesion, they had cans at my local walmart.

I just lifted it off no problems this morning, however it doesn’t fit

. Very slightly too big, it seems hope does not build you dimensionally correct pieces!

Now how do I adjust it in Cura? I’ve read the general calibration guide and understand the principle just not sure what settings I need to change.

Pyronious · Mar 15, 2019

Build update: I have reached the stage where I am installing the helicoils in my extrusions. I have a mix of "good" and "bad" helicoils. Even with the "good" ones, I had a heck of a time driving it all the way into the extrusion with the "self-tap" method. It took about 15 minutes of really hard work to get one fully seated. I decided to go the thread tapping route instead.

The first order of business was to figure out the correct tap. The official documentation says "M12" but does not specify a thread pitch. M12 taps are available in a variety of pitches (1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 to name just the first few I found on Amazon). A quick measure of the helicoils revealed that they are 1.5mm pitch. I ended up ordering this M12x1.5 tap from Amazon. It is a good match for the helicoils.

While waiting for the tap to arrive I wired and programmed my servo controllers, tested each one and tested each motor. All good there, whew!

Since my PCB isn't back from fabrication yet I did a rat's nest wiring on the Arduino to get a servo connected to SimFeedback. Tested the start/stop functionality and it works. More good news!

Today the tap arrived I got the other 7 holes tapped in the 1st extrusion. Installed the 7 helicoils in nearly the same amount of time it took me to install just the first one. I didn't tap the full depth of the helicoil, probably about 80% of the way. I used red threadlocker on the helicoils and then dug them in the last 20% by hand with a 1/4" T-wrench. I am feeling positive about the remaining three actuators now. I was really worried at first that I would strip out the head of a helicoil (I only ordered 32) or some other issue.

I should also mention that I used this stuff called Tap Magic to help lubricate the tap while cutting the threads. It seemed to made the job much easier.

I'm also in the early design phase of a new platform for my rig since my old rig is way too flimsy (GT Omega Pro). I decided to use this as an opportunity to learn more about Fusion360, which I've been using to design 3D parts for printing. But using it to design aluminum extrusion rigs is a bit of a different set of tools. Lots of learning about joints and constraints. The best tutorial I found by far is this one from Lars Christensen, which specifically discusses a good workflow for 80/20 design. If you want to learn Fusion360, Lars is the guy to watch.

Anyway, here's a very early work in progress:

Total length is 55", total width is 21". Those seemed to be reasonable dimensions based on the GT Omega (which is a bit longer). I'm installing my Clubsport v3 pedals, Clubsport shifter SQ, an Accuforce wheel, and the seat from my GT Omega (which sits on a 17 x 12 frame).

Any tips from folks about suggestions for the frame would be appreciated, especially with regard to actuator spacing and placement, as well as pedal / wheel / seat mounting as that is my next step.

Thanks! The road to motion continues...

minderacer · Mar 15, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
A helpful 3D printing hint -

If your waiting for your bed to cool down to get your print to release and your impatient or the thing just doesn't want to let go....
Hold a can of compressed air upside down and spray the refrigerant around the edge of the print a few times. It will pop loose every time.

To add to this great advice you can also use a a solution on 50/50 water and isopropyl alchoal, give the base a few squirts. Can usually hear a little crackling as the print releases.

Pyronious · Mar 15, 2019

One more note:

This set of tube brushes has really been useful to have on hand. They are super handy for cleaning the 3D printer, and also for cleaning swarf out of the aluminum extrusions after tapping them.

jimbraj · Mar 15, 2019

Pyronious said:
Build update: I have reached the stage where I am installing the helicoils in my extrusions. I have a mix of "good" and "bad" helicoils. Even with the "good" ones, I had a heck of a time driving it all the way into the extrusion with the "self-tap" method. It took about 15 minutes of really hard work to get one fully seated. I decided to go the thread tapping route instead.

The first order of business was to figure out the correct tap. The official documentation says "M12" but does not specify a thread pitch. M12 taps are available in a variety of pitches (1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 to name just the first few I found on Amazon). A quick measure of the helicoils revealed that they are 1.5mm pitch. I ended up ordering this M12x1.5 tap from Amazon. It is a good match for the helicoils.

While waiting for the tap to arrive I wired and programmed my servo controllers, tested each one and tested each motor. All good there, whew!

Since my PCB isn't back from fabrication yet I did a rat's nest wiring on the Arduino to get a servo connected to SimFeedback. Tested the start/stop functionality and it works. More good news!

Today the tap arrived I got the other 7 holes tapped in the 1st extrusion. Installed the 7 helicoils in nearly the same amount of time it took me to install just the first one. I didn't tap the full depth of the helicoil, probably about 80% of the way. I used red threadlocker on the helicoils and then dug them in the last 20% by hand with a 1/4" T-wrench. I am feeling positive about the remaining three actuators now. I was really worried at first that I would strip out the head of a helicoil (I only ordered 32) or some other issue.

I should also mention that I used this stuff called Tap Magic to help lubricate the tap while cutting the threads. It seemed to made the job much easier.

I'm also in the early design phase of a new platform for my rig since my old rig is way too flimsy (GT Omega Pro). I decided to use this as an opportunity to learn more about Fusion360, which I've been using to design 3D parts for printing. But using it to design aluminum extrusion rigs is a bit of a different set of tools. Lots of learning about joints and constraints. The best tutorial I found by far is this one from Lars Christensen, which specifically discusses a good workflow for 80/20 design. If you want to learn Fusion360, Lars is the guy to watch.

Anyway, here's a very early work in progress:

Total length is 55", total width is 21". Those seemed to be reasonable dimensions based on the GT Omega (which is a bit longer). I'm installing my Clubsport v3 pedals, Clubsport shifter SQ, an Accuforce wheel, and the seat from my GT Omega (which sits on a 17 x 12 frame).

Any tips from folks about suggestions for the frame would be appreciated, especially with regard to actuator spacing and placement, as well as pedal / wheel / seat mounting as that is my next step.

Thanks! The road to motion continues...

I would bump up the width a little 23 or 24 inch

Their is also a free program called frame builder that is good for building 8020 rigs

jimbraj · Mar 15, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
What L brackets are you guys using to connect the 100mm alum actuator profile to your rig? The spacing won't work with my typical 80/20 40mm based L brackets.

I’m using 40x40 but i had to ground the Nubs off on the one side

minderacer · Mar 15, 2019

Pyronious said:
One more note:

This set of tube brushes has really been useful to have on hand. They are super handy for cleaning the 3D printer, and also for cleaning swarf out of the aluminum extrusions after tapping them.

Yes, I was wishing I had some of those when I was tapping mine. Compressed air is also very helpful when you're tapping threads. Wierd thing is I used a 7/16-20 not for the "bad" inserts. End they threaded right in.

metalnwood · Mar 15, 2019

minderacer said:
To add to this great advice you can also use a a solution on 50/50 water and isopropyl alchoal, give the base a few squirts. Can usually hear a little crackling as the print releases.

Dude, it's just for cleaning, not drinking