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The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by sjb266, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. JohnnyV837

    JohnnyV837

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  2. JohnnyV837

    JohnnyV837

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    @Flag Ghost You can also mount it like this: [​IMG]
    Then your L brackets would also fit without spacers/adapters.
    Mount 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom
     
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  3. Flag Ghost

    Flag Ghost
    Premium

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    +32
    Thanks for the bracket recommendations. I ended up finding some slotted brackets on amazon.
     
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  4. minderacer

    minderacer

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    +19
    Would a 3d printed bracket be strong enough? Maybe a carbon infused filament? 8-10mm thick with a high infill? You could make it look like the brackets sim-lab uses for there uprights?
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2019
  5. Antracing

    Antracing

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    Anyone know what the maximum rig weight would be possible with these?
     
  6. JohnnyV837

    JohnnyV837

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    Check this out:

    at around 40s in.

    Person driving is 83 kg and the other person is 75 kg and the rig is 155 kg.
    So draw your own conclusions :D
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2019
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  7. C64

    C64

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    Here is how I designed my rig, the key elements are a rigid base, rigid wheelstand uprights and a low seat position. You can do almost any pedal config or wheelbase config you like because you will have a solid base to fix them to.

    I have replicated my design in the freely availabe "Frameexpert" software
    https://www.framexpert.com/products/framedesigner/download/
    NOTE : the MayTec download is the one to go for.
    This 1 hour youtube video is a good guide to the software and using it for designing a rig... in reality the stuff you need to know could be boiled down to 5 minutes.


    basic rig design.png
    I have also attached the rig design file for anyone to play with. NOTE : download and rename the file from "basic platform.txt" to "basic platform.scene" ... or you won't be able to open it.
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. minderacer

    minderacer

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    Really like the design. I couldn't figure ito how to get the corner brackets as an option in the app, mine a only had the internal brackets as an option. How did you get them in?

    And thank you for posting..
     
  9. C64

    C64

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    I couldn't figure it out either which is why I ended up watching the video... simple answer is they are all in "Acessory" in the toolbar... not in "Connectors". When you want to position the angle bracket hit the "G" keyboar key to rotate the bracket until you get the position you want.
     
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  10. minderacer

    minderacer

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    Thanks
     
  11. Furnace Inferno

    Furnace Inferno

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    It’s probably been asked before but I couldn’t find it, how tight should the slider be in the extrusion? Does it need to be tight or move relatively freely?
     
  12. C64

    C64

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    If you can push it with your hand it will be ok... if it slides freely it is ok... if it feels loose when you twist it side to side then it will rattle, main thing is the side to side twist - a little bit of play will be ok.
     
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  13. razzta01

    razzta01

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    Hi c64
    Hi c64, are you up and running with your motion cockpit with sxf100's? I ask you because I would like to know if the 2 profiles for the seat will or will not touch the floor when using the actuators. I actually just finished my build and would like to place my baquet further down. Exactly like yours.
    Hope you are actually riding your motion cockpit!
    Rgds
     
  14. Furnace Inferno

    Furnace Inferno

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    Hmm need to swap the mallet for the sandpaper then :roflmao:.
     
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  15. DotComRich

    DotComRich

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    Anyone figure out the high pitch sound yet? Apparently it is very common thing with servo motors but I find it odd that just one of my 4 produce the sound. I wonder if everyone has at least one actuator producing the sound and those who don't hear it are just too old (older you get the less high frequencies you can hear). Maybe it has something to do with wiring them in a series?
     
  16. metalnwood

    metalnwood

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    The extrusion can be under like C64's pic. I have the same and there is no worry that it will touch the ground.
     
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  17. Mascot

    Mascot
    Card-carrying mod whore Premium

    Messages:
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    Great to see so many new builds nearing completion!
    A few things to bear in mind based on my own recent experiences:
    If you can, put the drivers on the opposite side of your rig to your PC (or as far away as possible) to help minimise EMI effects.
    For tall P1 (or other 8020) cockpit users: if elbow room is an issue with the rear actuators you can set them back a further 100mm by having them overhang the rear of the chassis and tapping the end of the side rails M8 for the second set of brackets. I posted pics a couple of weeks ago. You can also lower the chassis and seat by fitting the actuators one channel higher up. Popular opinion seems to be that the lower you can get your seat, the better. This gives more of a sense of being in, rather than on, the vehicle.
    Have some suitable packing ready to raise your chassis up ready for fitting the actuators. I found the polystyrene packing from the servo motors to be ideal despite my P1 weighing a ton.

    Edit: here's the pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Furnace Inferno

    Furnace Inferno

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    I ordered the servos earlier today and also got the shipping number for the NTL parts due next week. One slider is all done and filed so now it’s just a case of printing the rest of the parts and doing the electronics once the servos get here.

    Then it’s just a simple process of screwing it all together and attaching it to the rig..... I hope!
     
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  19. Flag Ghost

    Flag Ghost
    Premium

    Messages:
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    Ugh.. just got word my aluminum frame order for my revised rig has been delayed by almost two weeks. I will be ready well before then.. patience patience
     
  20. Flag Ghost

    Flag Ghost
    Premium

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    I've spent a few days now testing different types of 3D filaments to see what type seems to slide the best inside this aluminum profile. Here are my very unscientific results.

    Filament tested
    PLA
    PetG
    iGus iglide I180-PF
    Taulman 910

    A simple test - print a relatively small section of the slider with each filament until I achieved a fit without side play but would move vertically without any extreme effort. I moved the filament piston up and down on the same profile gauging how slippery / smooth the constant movement was, whether it tended to grab on stopping, it's resistance to initial movement, etc..

    The iglide filament was definitely the favorite going in considering it is sold for use as bushings sliding against metal. The results didn't match my expectations.

    Results in order of greatness (enabling smooth uninhibited motion)
    1) Taulman 910
    2) PLA
    3) iGus iglide I180-PF
    4) PetG

    The Taulman 910 was the clear winner besting the other three by a wide margin. The remaining three filament types were very close to one another. Taulman is just super slick while both very hard and durable. This stuff is not easy to print though.. 255 nozzle, 90 bed, prone to warp (used brim and enclosure) and prints SLOOOW 35-40mm/sec.

    If you want the very best in terms of enabling smooth motion the choice is Taulman Alloy 910. The remaining three were very close so, out of the bottom three, I would recommend the PLA as it is definitely the easiest to print. Dissapointingly, the iGlide stuff didn't perform that well, was hell to print, even tougher than the Taulman.. and super expensive.

    Remember these results are unscientific and very subjective. YMMV.

    EDIT: If anyone is contemplating printing the sliders with Taulman Alloy 910.. rethink it. I've spent most of today trying to get a good print from this stuff and I finally just gave up. It is extremely temperamental. I'm sure it's possible but it won't be me.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
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