The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[JohnnyV]

My 40 series L brackets are made to fit 40 series not 50 series. The hole won't line up as it's 25mm from the base as opposed to normally 20mm.

Ah okay, misunderstanding than.
I use these L brackets: https://www.motedis.nl/shop/Alumini...-sleuf-8/Hoek-40-I-Type-sleuf-8::9999998.html

Rather than a hole, they have a slot so they work fore for matching the 40 to the 50 series profile

 

[JohnnyV]

@Flag Ghost You can also mount it like this:
Then your L brackets would also fit without spacers/adapters.
Mount 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom

 

[Flag Ghost]

Thanks for the bracket recommendations. I ended up finding some slotted brackets on amazon.

 

[minderacer]

Would a 3d printed bracket be strong enough? Maybe a carbon infused filament? 8-10mm thick with a high infill? You could make it look like the brackets sim-lab uses for there uprights?

 

[Antracing]

Anyone know what the maximum rig weight would be possible with these?

 

[JohnnyV]

Check this out:

at around 40s in.

Person driving is 83 kg and the other person is 75 kg and the rig is 155 kg.
So draw your own conclusions

 

[C64]

Build update: I have reached the stage where I am installing the helicoils in my extrusions. I have a mix of "good" and "bad" helicoils. Even with the "good" ones, I had a heck of a time driving it all the way into the extrusion with the "self-tap" method. It took about 15 minutes of really hard work to get one fully seated. I decided to go the thread tapping route instead.

The first order of business was to figure out the correct tap. The official documentation says "M12" but does not specify a thread pitch. M12 taps are available in a variety of pitches (1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 to name just the first few I found on Amazon). A quick measure of the helicoils revealed that they are 1.5mm pitch. I ended up ordering this M12x1.5 tap from Amazon. It is a good match for the helicoils.

While waiting for the tap to arrive I wired and programmed my servo controllers, tested each one and tested each motor. All good there, whew!

Since my PCB isn't back from fabrication yet I did a rat's nest wiring on the Arduino to get a servo connected to SimFeedback. Tested the start/stop functionality and it works. More good news!

Today the tap arrived I got the other 7 holes tapped in the 1st extrusion. Installed the 7 helicoils in nearly the same amount of time it took me to install just the first one. I didn't tap the full depth of the helicoil, probably about 80% of the way. I used red threadlocker on the helicoils and then dug them in the last 20% by hand with a 1/4" T-wrench. I am feeling positive about the remaining three actuators now. I was really worried at first that I would strip out the head of a helicoil (I only ordered 32) or some other issue.

I should also mention that I used this stuff called Tap Magic to help lubricate the tap while cutting the threads. It seemed to made the job much easier.

I'm also in the early design phase of a new platform for my rig since my old rig is way too flimsy (GT Omega Pro). I decided to use this as an opportunity to learn more about Fusion360, which I've been using to design 3D parts for printing. But using it to design aluminum extrusion rigs is a bit of a different set of tools. Lots of learning about joints and constraints. The best tutorial I found by far is this one from Lars Christensen, which specifically discusses a good workflow for 80/20 design. If you want to learn Fusion360, Lars is the guy to watch.

Anyway, here's a very early work in progress:

Total length is 55", total width is 21". Those seemed to be reasonable dimensions based on the GT Omega (which is a bit longer). I'm installing my Clubsport v3 pedals, Clubsport shifter SQ, an Accuforce wheel, and the seat from my GT Omega (which sits on a 17 x 12 frame).

Any tips from folks about suggestions for the frame would be appreciated, especially with regard to actuator spacing and placement, as well as pedal / wheel / seat mounting as that is my next step.

Thanks! The road to motion continues...

Here is how I designed my rig, the key elements are a rigid base, rigid wheelstand uprights and a low seat position. You can do almost any pedal config or wheelbase config you like because you will have a solid base to fix them to.

I have replicated my design in the freely availabe "Frameexpert" software
https://www.framexpert.com/products/framedesigner/download/
NOTE : the MayTec download is the one to go for.
This 1 hour youtube video is a good guide to the software and using it for designing a rig... in reality the stuff you need to know could be boiled down to 5 minutes.

I have also attached the rig design file for anyone to play with. NOTE : download and rename the file from "basic platform.txt" to "basic platform.scene" ... or you won't be able to open it.

 

[minderacer]

Here is how I designed my rig, the key elements are a rigid base, rigid wheelstand uprights and a low seat position. You can do almost any pedal config or wheelbase config you like because you will have a solid base to fix them to.

I have replicated my design in the freely availabe "Frameexpert" software
https://www.framexpert.com/products/framedesigner/download/
NOTE : the MayTec download is the one to go for.
This 1 hour youtube video is a good guide to the software and using it for designing a rig... in reality the stuff you need to know could be boiled down to 5 minutes.

View attachment 296640
I have also attached the rig design file for anyone to play with. NOTE : download and rename the file from "basic platform.txt" to "basic platform.scene" ... or you won't be able to open it.

Really like the design. I couldn't figure ito how to get the corner brackets as an option in the app, mine a only had the internal brackets as an option. How did you get them in?

And thank you for posting..

 

[C64]

Really like the design. I couldn't figure ito how to get the corner brackets as an option in the app, mine a only had the internal brackets as an option. How did you get them in?

And thank you for posting..

I couldn't figure it out either which is why I ended up watching the video... simple answer is they are all in "Acessory" in the toolbar... not in "Connectors". When you want to position the angle bracket hit the "G" keyboar key to rotate the bracket until you get the position you want.

 

[minderacer]

I couldn't figure it out either which is why I ended up watching the video... simple answer is they are all in "Acessory" in the toolbar... not in "Connectors". When you want to position the angle bracket hit the "G" keyboar key to rotate the bracket until you get the position you want.

Thanks

 

[Furnace Inferno]

It’s probably been asked before but I couldn’t find it, how tight should the slider be in the extrusion? Does it need to be tight or move relatively freely?

 

[C64]

It’s probably been asked before but I couldn’t find it, how tight should the slider be in the extrusion? Does it need to be tight or move relatively freely?

If you can push it with your hand it will be ok... if it slides freely it is ok... if it feels loose when you twist it side to side then it will rattle, main thing is the side to side twist - a little bit of play will be ok.

 

[razzta01]

Hi c64

Here is how I designed my rig, the key elements are a rigid base, rigid wheelstand uprights and a low seat position. You can do almost any pedal config or wheelbase config you like because you will have a solid base to fix them to.

I have replicated my design in the freely availabe "Frameexpert" software
https://www.framexpert.com/products/framedesigner/download/
NOTE : the MayTec download is the one to go for.
This 1 hour youtube video is a good guide to the software and using it for designing a rig... in reality the stuff you need to know could be boiled down to 5 minutes.

View attachment 296640
I have also attached the rig design file for anyone to play with. NOTE : download and rename the file from "basic platform.txt" to "basic platform.scene" ... or you won't be able to open it.

Hi c64, are you up and running with your motion cockpit with sxf100's? I ask you because I would like to know if the 2 profiles for the seat will or will not touch the floor when using the actuators. I actually just finished my build and would like to place my baquet further down. Exactly like yours.
Hope you are actually riding your motion cockpit!
Rgds

 

[Furnace Inferno]

If you can push it with your hand it will be ok... if it slides freely it is ok... if it feels loose when you twist it side to side then it will rattle, main thing is the side to side twist - a little bit of play will be ok.

Hmm need to swap the mallet for the sandpaper then .

 

[DotComRich]

Anyone figure out the high pitch sound yet? Apparently it is very common thing with servo motors but I find it odd that just one of my 4 produce the sound. I wonder if everyone has at least one actuator producing the sound and those who don't hear it are just too old (older you get the less high frequencies you can hear). Maybe it has something to do with wiring them in a series?

 

[metalnwood]

Hi c64

Hi c64, are you up and running with your motion cockpit with sxf100's? I ask you because I would like to know if the 2 profiles for the seat will or will not touch the floor when using the actuators. I actually just finished my build and would like to place my baquet further down. Exactly like yours.
Hope you are actually riding your motion cockpit!
Rgds

The extrusion can be under like C64's pic. I have the same and there is no worry that it will touch the ground.

 

[Mascot]

Great to see so many new builds nearing completion!
A few things to bear in mind based on my own recent experiences:
If you can, put the drivers on the opposite side of your rig to your PC (or as far away as possible) to help minimise EMI effects.
For tall P1 (or other 8020) cockpit users: if elbow room is an issue with the rear actuators you can set them back a further 100mm by having them overhang the rear of the chassis and tapping the end of the side rails M8 for the second set of brackets. I posted pics a couple of weeks ago. You can also lower the chassis and seat by fitting the actuators one channel higher up. Popular opinion seems to be that the lower you can get your seat, the better. This gives more of a sense of being in, rather than on, the vehicle.
Have some suitable packing ready to raise your chassis up ready for fitting the actuators. I found the polystyrene packing from the servo motors to be ideal despite my P1 weighing a ton.

Edit: here's the pics.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

I ordered the servos earlier today and also got the shipping number for the NTL parts due next week. One slider is all done and filed so now it’s just a case of printing the rest of the parts and doing the electronics once the servos get here.

Then it’s just a simple process of screwing it all together and attaching it to the rig..... I hope!

 

[Flag Ghost]

Ugh.. just got word my aluminum frame order for my revised rig has been delayed by almost two weeks. I will be ready well before then.. patience patience

 

[Flag Ghost]

I've spent a few days now testing different types of 3D filaments to see what type seems to slide the best inside this aluminum profile. Here are my very unscientific results.

Filament tested
PLA
PetG
iGus iglide I180-PF
Taulman 910

A simple test - print a relatively small section of the slider with each filament until I achieved a fit without side play but would move vertically without any extreme effort. I moved the filament piston up and down on the same profile gauging how slippery / smooth the constant movement was, whether it tended to grab on stopping, it's resistance to initial movement, etc..

The iglide filament was definitely the favorite going in considering it is sold for use as bushings sliding against metal. The results didn't match my expectations.

Results in order of greatness (enabling smooth uninhibited motion)
1) Taulman 910
2) PLA
3) iGus iglide I180-PF
4) PetG

The Taulman 910 was the clear winner besting the other three by a wide margin. The remaining three filament types were very close to one another. Taulman is just super slick while both very hard and durable. This stuff is not easy to print though.. 255 nozzle, 90 bed, prone to warp (used brim and enclosure) and prints SLOOOW 35-40mm/sec.

If you want the very best in terms of enabling smooth motion the choice is Taulman Alloy 910. The remaining three were very close so, out of the bottom three, I would recommend the PLA as it is definitely the easiest to print. Dissapointingly, the iGlide stuff didn't perform that well, was hell to print, even tougher than the Taulman.. and super expensive.

Remember these results are unscientific and very subjective. YMMV.

EDIT: If anyone is contemplating printing the sliders with Taulman Alloy 910.. rethink it. I've spent most of today trying to get a good print from this stuff and I finally just gave up. It is extremely temperamental. I'm sure it's possible but it won't be me.