Another TX/T300 calibration problem thread...

[Awittyusername]

Hey all,

Came to this forum searching for a solution to my problems. Seems like there's some very knowledgeable users on here and apparently a lot of the advice given has worked for many people.

Unfortunately I have continued to have issues and am now at a bit of a loss.

I bought the wheel super cheap, knowing it had issues. But reading these forums and having heard the symptoms from the previous owner, I felt confident that it was a cracked hall sensor mount or loose magnet.

It arrived and I powered it on and sure enough, it wouldn't calibrate, just twitched limply from left to right periodically. Hopeful that a recalibration using that PC software linked on the PCars forum might just cure it, I ran it and sure enough the wheel seemed fine following the procedure, appearing to complete it's power on auto calibration fine. I also ensure that it was on the latest firmware and all my drivers were up to date. I took it for a few laps of the Red Bull Ring in PCars2 but after no more than 3 laps, the FFB had diminished significantly.

I exited PCars2 and opened the TX Control Panel in Windows and tested with the test effects to rule out a PCars issue. The test effects were also considerably weaker, confirming it was the wheel. Another symptom was the rotation speed which was slower going left and faster going right. I confirmed this by moving the wheel by hand to the left and the centre spring fired it right back to centre quickly. Moving the wheel by hand to the right and letting go resulted in a limp and slow move left back to centre.

I unplugged the wheel and plugging back in resulted in the failure to auto calibrate and just twitching left and right every now and again.

I cracked open the case and inspected the hall sensor mount. The mount was not cracked at any point and was perfectly fine. The magnet was securely fixed to the motor shaft. I remade the solder joints on the hall sensor board where the wire attached as they didn't look fab and cleaned the magnet and hall sensor board with 99% IPA.

Leaving the cover off and putting the fan into forced cooling mode to rule out overheating, I reran the manual calibration tool and the wheel auto calibrated fine on next plug in.

I then repeated the test on Red Bull Ring but sure enough, the FFB went weak at the same point. Feeling the fins on the motor, it was barely warm. Same issues in the TX Control Panel test forces and same slow left rotation speed problems.

It might just be goosed but I'm hopeful somebody here may know of other avenues of investigation. Would be supremely grateful for any pointers.

If you made it this far then well done, and thanks for reading!

 

[toweleeie]

How do you get that motor core out?

Hall sensor and mounting bracket all look in good condition. I pulled both off to inspect and no sign of cracks or damage.

Thanks for the reply. Really appreciate it. Been waiting almost a week to hear back from tech support.

mate, its a d**k ed of a job hahahahaa. unscrew the 3... maybe 4 mounting screws for the motor. now, i did this without removing the cables from the PCB but would be alot easier with them unplugged..... youll see why i didnt unplug them mind hahaaha

*NOTE* put wheel to centre position BEFORE removing motor, this will save you alot of time later on when it comes to reassembling it

ok, 1st thing to do is mark the end cap of the motor to the actual motor casing so when it goes back together you can line them back up. dont skip this as it needs to line up as it was. then end cap is on the sensor end, not the gear drive end.

next, theres 3 or 4 little 'knock tabs' on the outer case of the motor that hold the end cap in place, these need to be knocked back away from the end cap. the end cap will then pop out.

next youll see a PCB with 3 wires on it, these have to be de soldered, you shouldnt need to mark them as they will only go to there original mounting point on the pcb, you cant swap them as there too short. its a fiddly job, even worse when you go to put it all back together
the PCB is glued into place, you need to break the glue seal without damaging the PCB. PBC will pop out.
youre now free to tap the shaft on the gear end(remove gear 1st) and the shaft/motor core will pop out baby hahahaaha

take pictures, note the position of the outer core relative to the mount spacers that it glues to, there offset on one end(on mine) and also make a note of the small brass stoppers on the shaft that determine the bearing position, these had slipped on mine causing alot of issues when i put it back together

everything your going to need to know is at the top of the 2nd page on this thread mate, check it out as i wrote it straight after the repair, it aint so fresh in my mind now. another thing is have you checked the PSU to make sure its not a power issue?

MM

 

[PherixX]

mate, its a d**k ed of a job hahahahaa. unscrew the 3... maybe 4 mounting screws for the motor. now, i did this without removing the cables from the PCB but would be alot easier with them unplugged..... youll see why i didnt unplug them mind hahaaha

*NOTE* put wheel to centre position BEFORE removing motor, this will save you alot of time later on when it comes to reassembling it

ok, 1st thing to do is mark the end cap of the motor to the actual motor casing so when it goes back together you can line them back up. dont skip this as it needs to line up as it was. then end cap is on the sensor end, not the gear drive end.

next, theres 3 or 4 little 'knock tabs' on the outer case of the motor that hold the end cap in place, these need to be knocked back away from the end cap. the end cap will then pop out.

next youll see a PCB with 3 wires on it, these have to be de soldered, you shouldnt need to mark them as they will only go to there original mounting point on the pcb, you cant swap them as there too short. its a fiddly job, even worse when you go to put it all back together
the PCB is glued into place, you need to break the glue seal without damaging the PCB. PBC will pop out.
youre now free to tap the shaft on the gear end(remove gear 1st) and the shaft/motor core will pop out baby hahahaaha

take pictures, note the position of the outer core relative to the mount spacers that it glues to, there offset on one end(on mine) and also make a note of the small brass stoppers on the shaft that determine the bearing position, these had slipped on mine causing alot of issues when i put it back together

everything your going to need to know is at the top of the 2nd page on this thread mate, check it out as i wrote it straight after the repair, it aint so fresh in my mind now. another thing is have you checked the PSU to make sure its not a power issue?

MM

I don't have anything to test the PSU with. I assumed it wasn't power as everything works as it should except for FFB. I don't have a soldering iron either so looks like I won't be pulling the motor apart.

I had pulled the motor out already and when I put it all back together I thought I had fixed the issue. Calibration went as it should, all the tool testing ffb worked as it should and was strong. Load into a game and it went limp and just repeated the issue.

I'll likely just be buying a new fanatec setup and see if I can offload my current gear as a "renovators delight".

Thanks for your help on this one. Looks like it goes beyond my ability unfortunately.

 

[toweleeie]

I don't have anything to test the PSU with. I assumed it wasn't power as everything works as it should except for FFB. I don't have a soldering iron either so looks like I won't be pulling the motor apart.

I had pulled the motor out already and when I put it all back together I thought I had fixed the issue. Calibration went as it should, all the tool testing ffb worked as it should and was strong. Load into a game and it went limp and just repeated the issue.

I'll likely just be buying a new fanatec setup and see if I can offload my current gear as a "renovators delight".

Thanks for your help on this one. Looks like it goes beyond my ability unfortunately.

where abouts in the world are you mate?
if you can send the motor to me ill sort it for you

 

[PherixX]

where abouts in the world are you mate?
if you can send the motor to me ill sort it for you

I am in Brisbane Australia.

The other question I have is, do the black wires come out of the back of the motor or are they fixed? Like is it a spade terminal or are they soldered on?

 

[toweleeie]

I am in Brisbane Australia.

The other question I have is, do the black wires come out of the back of the motor or are they fixed? Like is it a spade terminal or are they soldered on?

there not on a connector from what i can remember mate.
guna be honest, the shipping to me and back will be more than the motor is worth. get ya self a half decent soldering iron mate and have a go at it. youll need some good thread lock to re glue the core...... or try and find a replacement motor

 

[PherixX]

there not on a connector from what i can remember mate.
guna be honest, the shipping to me and back will be more than the motor is worth. get ya self a half decent soldering iron mate and have a go at it. youll need some good thread lock to re glue the core...... or try and find a replacement motor

Thanks mate. And again.. Really appreciate your help on this one.

 

[mazel0901]

Hey there
I baught a T300 RS together with the original two pedal set for 70€ on Ebay as the description said it has a calibration bug, which seems to be fixable by some tweaking with the drivers, which obviously is not the case. But as it was that cheap I arranged to live with that issue that it always slammes into the right stop if you dont prevent it.

I am in general very pleased with how the belt driven wheel feels and behaves in terms of being precise and strong if everything works as it should. I`ve bought it as broken. I`m sure that those wheels are very reliable if you just treat them right.

As Corona kicked in I had a lot of time for playing GT Sport on my PS4 and I noticed during a 6 hour Nürburgring endurance Session that the centering force got very weak barely noticeable as it would only center up to ~100° off the center.
So I decided to fially open it to figure out what`s wrong.

At first I tried to replace the almost pulverised Hall sensor mount with a DIY construction, which didn`t seem precise enough, as the wheel started rattle after recalibration. A bug also appeared after this several calibration runs vainly trying to get the sensor in place, which made my playstation as well as my Computer think that there is a T3PA attatched, using my gas peddal as clutch. (Tweaking with the sensors position and repluging the wheel several times made it from time to time calibrate normal without the harmful calibration bug) As this didn`t seem to promise any success I`ve ordered the sensor mount replacement ( https://www.shapeways.com/product/R4GRA59E7/thrustmaster-tx-t300-repair-part?optionId=63288566 ).

It arrived yesterday and I directly put the sensor back in place, installed a older firmware on the wheel to reinstall the actual 30.00 hoping to get it back to life. The result was that my two pedal set still was reconized as a three pedal setup and that the wheel had the same calibration bug as before. When it was calibrated it had no noticeable in-game FFB, in the thrustmaster control panel the steering was precise, but the ffb tests where also extremely weak, barely noticeable. There was also no centering force anymore. What disappeared was the rattle caused by the faulty sensor positioning.

Yesterday I disassembled the motor to check the driveshaft if the magnet was loose, which also was definitely was not the case. After carefully reassembling the whole thing the motor only was moving a little bit to the right, keeping its position for about three seconds and then doing the same with a little bit of moving to the left. It looks like the motor is stuck in its position, but when the USB is unplugged there is no noticeable resistance on the wheel. This calibration issue appeared sometimes in the past but was very rare and repluging the USB instantly helped. Not now.

Does anybody know what I may have broken? By the way, the power supply is pushing about 30V DC on the output. Seems normal to me.

 

[toweleeie]

Hey there
I baught a T300 RS together with the original two pedal set for 70€ on Ebay as the description said it has a calibration bug, which seems to be fixable by some tweaking with the drivers, which obviously is not the case. But as it was that cheap I arranged to live with that issue that it always slammes into the right stop if you dont prevent it.

I am in general very pleased with how the belt driven wheel feels and behaves in terms of being precise and strong if everything works as it should. I`ve bought it as broken. I`m sure that those wheels are very reliable if you just treat them right.

As Corona kicked in I had a lot of time for playing GT Sport on my PS4 and I noticed during a 6 hour Nürburgring endurance Session that the centering force got very weak barely noticeable as it would only center up to ~100° off the center.
So I decided to fially open it to figure out what`s wrong.

At first I tried to replace the almost pulverised Hall sensor mount with a DIY construction, which didn`t seem precise enough, as the wheel started rattle after recalibration. A bug also appeared after this several calibration runs vainly trying to get the sensor in place, which made my playstation as well as my Computer think that there is a T3PA attatched, using my gas peddal as clutch. (Tweaking with the sensors position and repluging the wheel several times made it from time to time calibrate normal without the harmful calibration bug) As this didn`t seem to promise any success I`ve ordered the sensor mount replacement ( https://www.shapeways.com/product/R4GRA59E7/thrustmaster-tx-t300-repair-part?optionId=63288566 ).

It arrived yesterday and I directly put the sensor back in place, installed a older firmware on the wheel to reinstall the actual 30.00 hoping to get it back to life. The result was that my two pedal set still was reconized as a three pedal setup and that the wheel had the same calibration bug as before. When it was calibrated it had no noticeable in-game FFB, in the thrustmaster control panel the steering was precise, but the ffb tests where also extremely weak, barely noticeable. There was also no centering force anymore. What disappeared was the rattle caused by the faulty sensor positioning.

Yesterday I disassembled the motor to check the driveshaft if the magnet was loose, which also was definitely was not the case. After carefully reassembling the whole thing the motor only was moving a little bit to the right, keeping its position for about three seconds and then doing the same with a little bit of moving to the left. It looks like the motor is stuck in its position, but when the USB is unplugged there is no noticeable resistance on the wheel. This calibration issue appeared sometimes in the past but was very rare and repluging the USB instantly helped. Not now.

Does anybody know what I may have broken? By the way, the power supply is pushing about 30V DC on the output. Seems normal to me.

just a thought on this mate, when i stripped my motor down, the magnet didnt appear to be loose, infact it was quite tight, when the motor is cold the FFB worked, it was only when it heated up it would fail. i had to give it a good twist with the pliers to see the problem. and even then it was tight but did slip slightly so dont be fooled by the damn thing hahahaa

 

[asteroulis]

FYI you don't need to mark the center of the motor and the wheel etc before repairing the motor core. That's what calibration is for!

 

[toweleeie]

FYI you don't need to mark the center of the motor and the wheel etc before repairing the motor core. That's what calibration is for!

yes, but, as i found out, the calibration tool left me missing degrees of rotation as the wheel was slightly offset by a tooth or 2, it would turn more to the right than the left. easy way to stop it happening is to put the wheel to centre, then remove the motor. it saves a little bit of what can become aggro hahahahaa

 

[asteroulis]

yes, but, as i found out, the calibration tool left me missing degrees of rotation as the wheel was slightly offset by a tooth or 2, it would turn more to the right than the left. easy way to stop it happening is to put the wheel to centre, then remove the motor. it saves a little bit of what can become aggro hahahahaa

The calibration tool doesn't calibrate the wheel, which happens when you power the wheel and it turns left and right (finding the limits and calculating where the center should be. . The calibration tool reads small movements and alterations of the magnetic field through the hall sensor and corrects those values, so that the sensor can translate correctly what it reads. Meaning that if you change motor, reglue the magnet cap, or whatever, it makes the base understand the new readings that are every time slightly different when changing the motor. Also, previous values are erased, that's why there is 0 reason marking the previous center.
Hope I explained it in an understandable way.

 

[toweleeie]

The calibration tool doesn't calibrate the wheel, which happens when you power the wheel and it turns left and right (finding the limits and calculating where the center should be. . The calibration tool reads small movements and alterations of the magnetic field through the hall sensor and corrects those values, so that the sensor can translate correctly what it reads. Meaning that if you change motor, reglue the magnet cap, or whatever, it makes the base understand the new readings that are every time slightly different when changing the motor. Also, previous values are erased, that's why there is 0 reason marking the previous center.
Hope I explained it in an understandable way.

i didnt realise anyone had marked the centre mate? my only comments were to mark the end cap to motor outer case so it goes back in the correct p[osition, and to save any bother later put the wheel to centre before removing the motor?

 

[asteroulis]

Ok , ok . I See. Well , calibration tool fixes that , but indeed this may help if you don't have the calibration tool.

 

[piergy]

Hi to everyone,
i have a T300RS that has 3/4 years, i always played on PS4 with the cooling forcing mode on.
Yersterday after a couple hours of game i've lost the FFB strength so i disonnected the wheel to let it cool down. When i tried to plug it, the calibration process ****ed up, the wheel was slow when turning left and super fast when turning right, making the calibration process endless.
So i run the calibration software via PC and upgraded the fw aswell. After pluggin it seemed ok, i played 10 minutes and then i unplugged and replugged back. The calibration process finished correctly but the wheel was rotating faster in one direction. I dismounted the base and i've checked the hall sensor, the plastic cage have no cracks...What could it be?

Edit:
I re checked the magnet again and it seems perfectly flush with the sensor, 1mm of space i think, however i took some videos.
After another 10 minutes of game and unplug/plug the wheel, the calibration fails again, it seems that loses the center , but when i play the wheel is precise, it loses only ffb after some laps..
What can it be?

Edit 2:
I disassembled the motor because i thought that the fault of my problem was the glue on the moto shaft that has broken. I tried to move it using a bench vise but nothing!! The glue seems to be still rock solid!! I really don't understand what my problem is..

 

[Efe7to]

Brand ne t300 gt. Seems like my sensor have a ring on the right screw that is making him be not in line with the motor, and losing center while driving after some turns when the ffb kick in (even losing center in control panel tests).I checked other T300 on internet and this ring is not there. How??? Can someone confirm if this ring should be there. First i thought the issue was the belt tightening, fixed that but problem still there. But removing the ring, as seen in the picture, is making the sensor perfectly horizontal (or vertical) with the motor axis, and seems to fix the problem in my brief testing. Will try bumping the ffb up and drive some more to see.

 

[asteroulis]

Brand ne t300 gt. Seems like my sensor have a ring on the right screw that is making him be not in line with the motor, and losing center while driving after some turns when the ffb kick in (even losing center in control panel tests).I checked other T300 on internet and this ring is not there. How??? Can someone confirm if this ring should be there. First i thought the issue was the belt tightening, fixed that but problem still there. But removing the ring, as seen in the picture, is making the sensor perfectly horizontal (or vertical) with the motor axis, and seems to fix the problem in my brief testing. Will try bumping the ffb up and drive some more to see.

There definitely shouldn't be any ring there.

 

[Moh J]

Hey all,

Came to this forum searching for a solution to my problems. Seems like there's some very knowledgeable users on here and apparently a lot of the advice given has worked for many people.

Unfortunately I have continued to have issues and am now at a bit of a loss.

I bought the wheel super cheap, knowing it had issues. But reading these forums and having heard the symptoms from the previous owner, I felt confident that it was a cracked hall sensor mount or loose magnet.

It arrived and I powered it on and sure enough, it wouldn't calibrate, just twitched limply from left to right periodically. Hopeful that a recalibration using that PC software linked on the PCars forum might just cure it, I ran it and sure enough the wheel seemed fine following the procedure, appearing to complete it's power on auto calibration fine. I also ensure that it was on the latest firmware and all my drivers were up to date. I took it for a few laps of the Red Bull Ring in PCars2 but after no more than 3 laps, the FFB had diminished significantly.

I exited PCars2 and opened the TX Control Panel in Windows and tested with the test effects to rule out a PCars issue. The test effects were also considerably weaker, confirming it was the wheel. Another symptom was the rotation speed which was slower going left and faster going right. I confirmed this by moving the wheel by hand to the left and the centre spring fired it right back to centre quickly. Moving the wheel by hand to the right and letting go resulted in a limp and slow move left back to centre.

I unplugged the wheel and plugging back in resulted in the failure to auto calibrate and just twitching left and right every now and again.

I cracked open the case and inspected the hall sensor mount. The mount was not cracked at any point and was perfectly fine. The magnet was securely fixed to the motor shaft. I remade the solder joints on the hall sensor board where the wire attached as they didn't look fab and cleaned the magnet and hall sensor board with 99% IPA.

Leaving the cover off and putting the fan into forced cooling mode to rule out overheating, I reran the manual calibration tool and the wheel auto calibrated fine on next plug in.

I then repeated the test on Red Bull Ring but sure enough, the FFB went weak at the same point. Feeling the fins on the motor, it was barely warm. Same issues in the TX Control Panel test forces and same slow left rotation speed problems.

It might just be goosed but I'm hopeful somebody here may know of other avenues of investigation. Would be supremely grateful for any pointers.

If you made it this far then well done, and thanks for reading!

hey, guys, I have a problem with my t300 its constantly going off center and I checked if the belt is skipping but it is fine the motor is fine ffb is good but it just keeps getting off-center anyone knows why?

 

[Moh J]

Brand ne t300 gt. Seems like my sensor have a ring on the right screw that is making him be not in line with the motor, and losing center while driving after some turns when the ffb kick in (even losing center in control panel tests).I checked other T300 on internet and this ring is not there. How??? Can someone confirm if this ring should be there. First i thought the issue was the belt tightening, fixed that but problem still there. But removing the ring, as seen in the picture, is making the sensor perfectly horizontal (or vertical) with the motor axis, and seems to fix the problem in my brief testing. Will try bumping the ffb up and drive some more to see.

it is there for me

 

[policellaadm-123@hotmail.]

Hola chicos! alguien me puede decir si el iman tiene una distancia especifica con la placa hall? Estoy montando un nuevo motor y queda muy cerca de la placa Hall. Gracias por su tiempo.