Another TX/T300 calibration problem thread...

Hey all,

Came to this forum searching for a solution to my problems. Seems like there's some very knowledgeable users on here and apparently a lot of the advice given has worked for many people.

Unfortunately I have continued to have issues and am now at a bit of a loss.

I bought the wheel super cheap, knowing it had issues. But reading these forums and having heard the symptoms from the previous owner, I felt confident that it was a cracked hall sensor mount or loose magnet.

It arrived and I powered it on and sure enough, it wouldn't calibrate, just twitched limply from left to right periodically. Hopeful that a recalibration using that PC software linked on the PCars forum might just cure it, I ran it and sure enough the wheel seemed fine following the procedure, appearing to complete it's power on auto calibration fine. I also ensure that it was on the latest firmware and all my drivers were up to date. I took it for a few laps of the Red Bull Ring in PCars2 but after no more than 3 laps, the FFB had diminished significantly.

I exited PCars2 and opened the TX Control Panel in Windows and tested with the test effects to rule out a PCars issue. The test effects were also considerably weaker, confirming it was the wheel. Another symptom was the rotation speed which was slower going left and faster going right. I confirmed this by moving the wheel by hand to the left and the centre spring fired it right back to centre quickly. Moving the wheel by hand to the right and letting go resulted in a limp and slow move left back to centre.

I unplugged the wheel and plugging back in resulted in the failure to auto calibrate and just twitching left and right every now and again.

I cracked open the case and inspected the hall sensor mount. The mount was not cracked at any point and was perfectly fine. The magnet was securely fixed to the motor shaft. I remade the solder joints on the hall sensor board where the wire attached as they didn't look fab and cleaned the magnet and hall sensor board with 99% IPA.

Leaving the cover off and putting the fan into forced cooling mode to rule out overheating, I reran the manual calibration tool and the wheel auto calibrated fine on next plug in.

I then repeated the test on Red Bull Ring but sure enough, the FFB went weak at the same point. Feeling the fins on the motor, it was barely warm. Same issues in the TX Control Panel test forces and same slow left rotation speed problems.

It might just be goosed but I'm hopeful somebody here may know of other avenues of investigation. Would be supremely grateful for any pointers.

If you made it this far then well done, and thanks for reading! :thumbsup:
 
its already completely stripped down and ready for repairs. iv considered getting a replacement but i want to be up and running tonight hahahahaa ;)
edit:
kick a55 thread lock being delivered at 2am.......... were back on the road hahahaaha

and this 'the JST connector for the hall sensor was ever so slightly not square in the socket on the motherboard' i also have on mine, infact the connector was almost pulled off on one side, so well see how that goes ;)

MM
 
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ok, so the wheel is repaired, but i found some weird issues whilst doing this

1st, the motor bearings didnt seem to sit in the correct position, i dont know if i lost a spacer or something off the shaft, but i had to fit one(spacer, HDD bush+washer) in the end to make sure the bearings sat correctly in the housing, the back end cap(hall sensor end) was a whole bearings width from being seated. im starting to think that the brass stopper on the main motor shaft has moved, but once it was all in and together, i was quite reluctant to strip the whole thing down again. the spacer works fine ;)

2nd, the centre point was off by a few degrees, i used this TUT to correct it
T300RS https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/3466-en/
TM-TX https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/7539-en/

next thing the hall sensor PCB and magnet were sat too close, so fibre washers were used on the underside of the PCB at the mount points, doing this for what ever reason seems to make the wheel more aggressive on start up

buuuuuut..... all is well, works like a dream TBH, just done 2 hours on forza horizon 4 with no issues...... YES!!!!

fiddleeie as h3ll job but not too difficult

MM

a couple of things to note when doing this folks
the hall sensor mount bracket has an arrow on it, note the position, it should be TDC or there abouts.

also, make sure that you mark the rear end cap to the motor to make sure that its put back in... in the correct position, as the hall sensor lines up with small pins that go through the end cap, failure to do this will cause the centre to be offset(correctable with software) however, you cant get it too far wrong due to the small circuit board positioning within the motor, it will only allow a small deviation from where it should be

once apart *note* the position of the main rotor to the spacers it glues to, mine was slightly proud on 1 end, but, it may have moved if you have a really bad glue issue. look at the old glue, it should be welled up on one end of the rotor, this will give you a good idea as to where the rotor collar should fit/line up and make sure you note which way the shaft goes in(she said) one end has the main drive gear (drive end DE) and the other has the magnet for the hall sensor(none drive end NDE)

take pictures of every step so you have some sort of reference
 
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LOL,what a joke these wheels are.

I would love positive storys

Had mine for a few years now (not 10, admittedly) with zero issues and I couldn't be happier. The lack of positive stories is down to human nature. If someone has a problem with a product, they're much more likely to go public about it than those who are happy with it and just assume that it's operating as it should. Google "problems with Logitech wheels" and you'll see that they're far from trouble-free. There will always be people who have problems with the most reliable products - nothing's perfect!
 
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+1 here, mine is still going after 3.5 years of good use; can't say much about it, it just works! :)
Of course you get more stories from people who got trouble with theirs, you don't fell the need to post when everything is fine...
 
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Add one more vote for 3+ years. The only problem I had was the fan starting to rattle a bit (not in a major way, but it kinda annoyed me, so I simply replaced it, very easy to do so), and now my clamp is kinda cracking (probably because I have to tighten it a bit too much due to how slippy my table is).

Both of these I have no issues with in regards of expected wear and tear, given that I frequently use the wheel pretty much every day of the week for at least an hour or two, and it was easily even more than that on a daily basis the past two years or so.
 
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mine was an old 1st gen TX base that i didnt pay too much for as it was 2nd hand, but, when it did fail i was left with more dead products in the TP3A pro and TH8 shifter.

im lucky in the respect of i could fix my own wheel, however, i had NO idea that a firmware update was available to run the fan in constant mode, i only found this out AFTER the wheel had failed, so perhaps a communication issue there. it would be nice to have a check box in the profiler to run fan constant at game start, simple fix

now, i believe the TX and T300 have been updated to cure my particular failure, iv no idea what that fix is, but theres no getting round the fact that ALL the torque/power generated by both you and the wheel pass through a very thin glue seal, and if you dont look after your wheel and keep it cool during operation, you run the risk of it eventually failing, especially if you have the older 1st issues of the wheel. i think the design was changed in 2017, could be wrong on that.

now, im not going to start a flame war on wheel manufactures, i will comment that my original G25 is still going strong to this day(bought 2008), but a 2nd G25 bought at the same time as mine and with very little use in comparison to mine has failed(about 6 years from purchase), the G25 likes to be used, other issues i suffered with the G25 was the gas pedal pot working loose, this was never fixed by logitech as it was present on the G29 i used whilst the TM was out of action
the logitech wheels also suffer from a HUGE knock, worse when turning right, i modified mine to reduce this but its still annoying, driving off road/rally on FH4 would expose this isuue, however, it technically isnt a fault, its caused by backlash on the motors that is supposedly within operating limits

summing up, i have issues with both manufactures products, the BIG difference being price, for 300 quid, i dont expect my wheel to fail because of a rubbish glue seal, and for 300quid i would expect the wheel to come with a 3 pedal setup. 200quid is a more than fair price for the T300/TX with rubbish pedals
and for 250 quid i dont expect my new wheel to knock its plumbs off when turning right logitech!!

both got there issues folks, enjoy em whilst they last, upgrade and do your homework when you can

on a side note, id recommend that any extra peripherals(pedals/shifter) have a USB back up cable, then if ya wheel does die, you can still use your old stuf with any wheel ya want

peace out
 
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LOL,what a joke these wheels are.

I would love positive storys.

Has anyone used the t300 or tx for 10 years without issue?

Logis can do that and some.
I'm scared now! My G25 that i bought 2nd hand like 8 years ago for about £50 started getting really slow on the calibration?/Motor spin when i plugged it in, I had also stripped it down and graphite greased the gears previously (About 2 years ago) I look after my gear no matter how cheap :roflmao: I thought i had best replace it before it dies, Yesterday i got my brand new T300 RS (£300!) I really hope this doe's not let me down, Reading this thread i expect it probably will! Although i only will be using it about 10 hrs per week and i tend to like my FFB settings sensible and not clip the cr@p out of it! At least TM have extended their warranty's to 2 years! BTW the T300 is definately a big step up from the G25, I just hope that mine is as reliable!
 
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I'm scared now! My G25 that i bought 2nd hand like 8 years ago for about £50 started getting really slow on the calibration?/Motor spin when i plugged it in, I had also stripped it down and graphite greased the gears previously (About 2 years ago) I look after my gear no matter how cheap :roflmao: I thought i had best replace it before it dies, Yesterday i got my brand new T300 RS (£300!) I really hope this doe's not let me down, Reading this thread i expect it probably will! Although i only will be using it about 10 hrs per week and i tend to like my FFB settings sensible and not clip the cr@p out of it! At least TM have extended their warranty's to 2 years! BTW the T300 is definately a big step up from the G25, I just hope that mine is as reliable!

I really hope so brother.
I have bought Thrustmasters latest pedals with the t stand so I can use them on my desk setup so I am not dissing them yet.

My only conclusion is that us Logi users don’t pound our wheels 3 hours a day because maybe we are more casual and could that be the reason the Logis last or is it the gear system which doesn’t have parts that flex like a t300?
 
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Logitech wheels are good entry level stuff, I used Rasmus' lut files in AC and my G25 felt really good, Also ACC felt good straight out the box. As i stated i bought my G25 second hand so who knows what sort of abuse it might have been through, Also my wheel before that was a 2nd hand Logi Momo, Still working fine! Now i've got to spend a few hours dialling this T300 in properly and getting used to it!
 
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Yesterday i got my brand new T300 RS (£300!) I really hope this doe's not let me down, Reading this thread i expect it probably will!

There are only 2 people with issues in this thread and one of them bought the wheel cheap knowing that it had problems! This is not typical of current T300 Wheel/pedal sets. They had some issues, particularly with overheating, when they were first released some years ago but are now generally very reliable. The latest firmware lets you set the fan to run continuously (recommended) rather than coming on at a particular temperature and that has, to all intents and purposes, removed the chances of getting the problem. As i said in an earlier post, I've currently had years of trouble-free use out of mine and would definitely recommend them.
 
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My T300 overheated regardless of the continuous fan mode, it simply wasn't capable of sustaining 100% gain, could not be set at anything more than 80% for AC purposes. If you reduce the dampening setting a lot of wheel weight disappears and can utilise the higher peaks potentially but then you loose feel on things like understeer and load up. They are still reasonable wheels but they have a few clear design flaws.
 
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There are only 2 people with issues in this thread and one of them bought the wheel cheap knowing that it had problems! This is not typical of current T300 Wheel/pedal sets. They had some issues, particularly with overheating, when they were first released some years ago but are now generally very reliable. The latest firmware lets you set the fan to run continuously (recommended) rather than coming on at a particular temperature and that has, to all intents and purposes, removed the chances of getting the problem. As i said in an earlier post, I've currently had years of trouble-free use out of mine and would definitely recommend them.
I have installed the latest firmware, Doe's the fan automatically run continously now or do i have to go somewhere and activate it? (Googled it, Got nowhere!) Help appreciated, Thanks.
 
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My T300 overheated regardless of the continuous fan mode, it simply wasn't capable of sustaining 100% gain

My experience is that setting the gain that high usually results in clipping in the game which generally removes far more information than just turning the gain down. Using the forced cooling mode has never resulted in overheating for me. How old is your wheel?
 
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Does anyone have pictures or video of the parts being talked about here?

My T300 of just over 3 years has developed the issues described in this thread. I pulled the back off the base yesterday but saw no obvious visual clues.

The wheel wont calibrate and has no FFB/return to centre force.

Any additional help would be amazing. Wheel has not missed a beat the whole time i have owned it.

Thanks
 
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Does anyone have pictures or video of the parts being talked about here?

My T300 of just over 3 years has developed the issues described in this thread. I pulled the back off the base yesterday but saw no obvious visual clues.

The wheel wont calibrate and has no FFB/return to centre force.

Any additional help would be amazing. Wheel has not missed a beat the whole time i have owned it.

Thanks

its not me best work but it does show the problem with my wheel. in your case mate, id 1st check the hall sensor mounting bracket on the end of the motor and make sure it isnt broken ;)
any problems mate give me a shout and ill help where i can
 
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How do you get that motor core out?

Hall sensor and mounting bracket all look in good condition. I pulled both off to inspect and no sign of cracks or damage.

Thanks for the reply. Really appreciate it. Been waiting almost a week to hear back from tech support.
 
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