The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Dennis Karlsson]

Google translation:

my arduino mega 2560 is well recognized on the COM5 port.
in the controller I put good COM5 and when I flash the arduino mega 2560, I chose the COM5 with MEGA type 2560. By cons in the list of firmware I have 3 choices and therefore I put acservo leoanardo.
I find it strange to put this firmware.
Is there a special firmware for Arduino Mega 2560?

According to this post it does not work with Mega.

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project.. I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge...

www.racedepartment.com

 

[Hees]

BTW my Q is for the pioneers ho did this project, why you are not very interested in adding traction loss to the rigs?

 

[saxxon66]

Some of us have implemented an additional TL.
Both for the seat alone and for the platform.

SimFeedback already has a TL effect where the platform tilts to the side, that works quite convincingly.
Personally, I've already tried some TL rigs and couldn't detect the effect well.
That's why I didn't do it, also because it makes the structure much more complicated.

 

[vittobrambi]

Hi guys, 7 years ago I made a very diy 3dof simulator with wipermotors.
See my video

Now I joined the sfx100 project to make a step ahead (or two).
After few months of ordering, 3d printing, mounting etc...I am starting to roll...but my actuators behave strangely.
The two right actuators, after few seconds go to maximum extension and do not operate anymore.
I read extensively about EMI maybe I lost sone point or did not do everything I should have done.
I did:
- Emi filter (cheap one from Amazon)

XTC, filtro di rete con presa per... https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00Y0IHQ5U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

- Ferrite cores on usb cable
- Servomotor cables far from usb

Is the problem I face EMI? Any other ideas or reasons?

Currently my servo power and encoder cables are grouped within a common containing sleeve. Should I separe power cables from signal ones?

Other possible reasons ( i. e. software or servo config)?

Thanks for helping

 

[metalnwood]

That is a strange one, the two rear ones work OK and the two front ones misbehave?

EMI doesn't seem right if I understand the problem.

So when you click start and the platform raises, all four raise properly. After that the two raise by themselves? Is this with or without game telemetry happening?

I would try swapping the front and rear ones on the arduino for testing.. This will test if the strange output is originating from the arduino or from the servo drivers. You would expect the rear ones to now go up but if the front ones continue to go up then there could be a config issue with your front servos.

You will have to do some basic testing to try and see where this signal is coming from that is driving them.

 

[vittobrambi]

That is a strange one, the two rear ones work OK and the two front ones misbehave?

EMI doesn't seem right if I understand the problem.

So when you click start and the platform raises, all four raise properly. After that the two raise by themselves? Is this with or without game telemetry happening?

I would try swapping the front and rear ones on the arduino for testing.. This will test if the strange output is originating from the arduino or from the servo drivers. You would expect the rear ones to now go up but if the front ones continue to go up then there could be a config issue with your front servos.

You will have to do some basic testing to try and see where this signal is coming from that is driving them.

front right and rear right are the ones that fully extend.
When I click start all four raise with no problem. Then I start driving and after few corners I find myself leaning left, with the left remaining actuators doing their job and the right ones fully extended.
Then, if I stop, the right ones do not return to zero but partially extended. They only go to zero by gravity after power off

 

[vittobrambi]

front right and rear right are the ones that fully extend.
When I click start all four raise with no problem. Then I start driving and after few corners I find myself leaning left, with the left remaining actuators doing their job and the right ones fully extended.
Then, if I stop, the right ones do not return to zero but partially extended. They only go to zero by gravity after power off

worth to mention I have not an original Leonardo but a clone

 

[metalnwood]

ok, so it's both rights... I would rewire at the arduino so that you swap left and right actuators... I.e. swap right front with left front and right rear with left rear..

Of course, it will be strange but lets see if the problem persists or the left ones now go high. It weill help figure out where the problem is. If the same side, after swapping wires, keeps going up then there is some issue with the arduino and not the servo drives.

There could be other kinds of issues, like bad wiring perhaps and two servo drives are sharing a signal.. start to isolate where the issue is.

Some knock off leonardo's are not good. I have one that is OK but there have been the odd faulty one.

 

[vittobrambi]

ok, so it's both rights... I would rewire at the arduino so that you swap left and right actuators... I.e. swap right front with left front and right rear with left rear..

Of course, it will be strange but lets see if the problem persists or the left ones now go high. It weill help figure out where the problem is. If the same side, after swapping wires, keeps going up then there is some issue with the arduino and not the servo drives.

There could be other kinds of issues, like bad wiring perhaps and two servo drives are sharing a signal.. start to isolate where the issue is.

Some knock off leonardo's are not good. I have one that is OK but there have been the odd faulty one.

ok thanks for the advise, I will start testing and see the result

 

[jr1414]

Has anyone used a rackmount enclosure to house their AASD15A's and SFX shield? Looking for a nice enclosure to house this all in with minimal fabrication on my part. Thanks.

 

[Paul Mullins]

Hey Aussie Guys

I've got some spare SFX-100 V1.35 boards for sale in sexy matt black - see this thread: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...tension-board-group-buy-list-au.166791/page-5

At this stage for simplicity, this is aimed at those living in Australia only.

 

[metalnwood]

Has anyone used a rackmount enclosure to house their AASD15A's and SFX shield? Looking for a nice enclosure to house this all in with minimal fabrication on my part. Thanks.

Lots of us have but you would have to look back for pictures... I have a 12u unit but that was for the acutators, rackmount amp for tactile, electronics for wind and simucube

 

[DougRS]

Has anyone used a rackmount enclosure to house their AASD15A's and SFX shield? Looking for a nice enclosure to house this all in with minimal fabrication on my part. Thanks.

I bought a 19" 6U rack box with a 4U blank plate, 1U blank plate and power mains board. Everything just bolted in easy with just drilling holes to bolt the servo drivers and shield on.

 

[EsxPaul]

@DougRS Nice job.

Do you think it's possible to mount the driver's into just the 4U blank plate or was it required to have the extra 1U to give you enough depth?

 

[DougRS]

@DougRS Nice job.

Do you think it's possible to mount the driver's into just the 4U blank plate or was it required to have the extra 1U to give you enough depth?

No you needed the extra 1U to get the top and bottom bolts in - or a 5U - I've never used a rack before and bought bits I thought I needed

 

[jr1414]

I bought a 19" 6U rack box with a 4U blank plate, 1U blank plate and power mains board. Everything just bolted in easy with just drilling holes to bolt the servo drivers and shield on.


View attachment 335198

View attachment 335199

View attachment 335197

Thank you, that's perfect!

 

[HugoB]

Yep, it's a beast. That's right. HMD side of the breakout, approx four or five winds.

View attachment 334450

I tried this just now and can confirm it works!

I've always had grey-outs with my Valve Index as soon as the SFX100 system was running and I touched the HMD. I had to position it well before starting the system. And during races repositioning was not possible. But now with this large ferrite core, I can touch the HMD anywhere, whenever I want and nothing happens, rock solid display.

I've been putting up with these grey-outs for soo long, now it's finally solved! Thanks!

I ordered four of them, just in case, wonder where else I can put them..

 

[Jasje]

Good tip guys, thanks!

If you have other places to put them? I assume on the cable between the arduino and the pc?

 

[MrSnoebel]

Hi, I'm also stepping into this adventure. Saw that the group buys for the SFX shield in Europe is finished. I live in the Netherlands, but would not mind to pay some extra for shipping.
Anyone have a board for me?

I'm just in the phase of getting all the info to start ordering parts.
Already started with 3D printing, learning a lot in that area. Did not yet start printing parts for the SFX100 but are getting enough confidence that I will start this weekend.
Bought an Ender 5 with some option like Silent board, capricon, metal extruder, glass board etc. Planning to use PETG. Got very good results with the standard Ender/Creality filament (PLA and PETG), sow was planning to stick with this brand.

Today we run a simple playseat setup and was planning to save some costs to cannibalize the seat and slider. But maybe sell this to buy a better one, any suggestions for a affordable seat with slider to buy in the NL?

Really looking forward to start building the whole setup, maybe even more than using it eventually. Good that I have more people in house who love to use it ;-)

Got already a couple of questions :

• For building the RIG I was thinking of using 80x40, would that be stiff enough for the sides? Or should I really go stronger like 120x40 or even bigger? Did find a very affordable company for the profiles, but they need a special order to go bigger, standard max is the 8080 or 4080. (For the actuators I will of course use the Kinetik ones)
• Almost no one is building the screen(s) onto the rig, I'm using a single BenQ 35", was planning to make a frame over the rig, or would that be unnecessary?
• On the shopping lists, on the sfx100 website but also in this (very large) tread I found several options, but hard to find if the quality from the Chinese suppliers is less then the German ones, or are they the same?

Feel free to give any advise for this starter

And no, I did not already read this whole tread.. about halfway through it now..

 

[diablo2112]

8040 is plenty strong, more than enough. That's what I did (below).

Lot's of folks mount screens to the rig, as I've done (49" ultrawide). No issues with about 5 months of use now.

Most builders order from the Chinese suppliers (except the K50 extrusions, of course). Haven't heard of any issues. Everything I sourced from China came in fine, fit well, and worked great.

Good luck.