The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Most builders order from the Chinese suppliers (except the K50 extrusions, of course). Haven't heard of any issues. Everything I sourced from China came in fine, fit well, and worked great.
Hey Diablo

Do you have a link to where you bought your 8040 stuff?

Cheers


On another note, can anyone tell me how warm do the motor controllers get under normal use? Putting them in a server cabinet, do they require fan cooling?
 
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"I have a quick question,
Is there a free simulation game that I can download to test the engine with the effect?

I would like to know if, by any chance, you have a beginner's relationship."


Do you not have any sims yet? A good one to purchase would be Assetto Corsa. Its cheap and you can let the AI take control of your car while you watch the rig move. (Its good for testing)
 
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Reïntroducing the SimFeedback service mode, for unknown reasons it does seem to be working fine on the latest simfeedback release.

I have been using it all week when i was working on my rig, having it raised in its highest position. It still amazes me how much clearance you actually need with a 49" monitor especially with roll left and right. :cool:

Use with caution, links can be found in the SimFeedback discord channel. Leave a comment if it works for you or not.

How is your monitor mounted? It seems attached at the bottom?
 
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Hi guys,

I'm almost ready with my build and I'm planning a bit on where to place the actuators.

My rig is a SRC Pro. I'm wondering if it's useful to move the seat inwards so the rear actuators stick out instead of being right next to the seat. See picture:

1574433816616.png


Normally the rear profile is aligned with the 2 side profiles but I read that it's best to have the seat as much in the center as possible between the actuators. Anything I have to consider here? (sorry if repost)
 
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Definitely get the rear ones as far back as you can. Remember youre trying to simulate where the tyres and suspension is in a real car.

Where you have the rears now will feel better than if you moved them more towards the front.
 
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Do you have a link to where you bought your 8040 stuff?

I purchased all the extrusions off eBay from the 8020 store, a selection of 8040 and 4040 lengths. The remainder of the hardware (slot nuts, bolts, corner joints, angle plates, articulated connectors) were purchased off Amazon.

I used a mitre saw to cut my pieces to length. My main rails are 1500mm long, and the interior distance between them is 530mm. FYI.
 
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Another question. I have ordered 40 series corner brackets but the K50 are wider so the brackets don't align. How do you solve this? Do I add spacers everywhere?
 
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[QUOTE = "DougRS, publicación: 3074078, miembro: 973445"]
Compré una caja de rack de 19 "y 6U con una placa en blanco de 4U, una placa en blanco de 1U y una placa de alimentación. Todo se atornilló fácilmente con solo perforar agujeros para atornillar los servoaccionadores y el escudo.


[ATTACH = full] 335198 [/ ATTACH]

[ATTACH = full] 335199 [/ ATTACH]

[ATTACH = full] 335197 [/ ATTACH]
[/ CITAR]

Puedes poner enlaces de compra de los materiales por favor

Gracias
 
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Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone here has the means to help me out with printing SFX100 parts. I don't have the means or budget to set up my own high end quality 3d printer but am happy to help pay (Reasonably) for materials and time if someone more experienced in here is happy to offer.

I have ordered the servos and drivers from aliexpress already and I was going to buy a set of SFX100 actuators without the servos and controllers from a member (not this forum) that had there's for up for sale but they messaged me recently and sold them to a friend of there's. So I'm back to square one.

I'm located in Australia. Thank you!

I'll answer my own post. Diablo2112 helped me out with printing the parts. Can't wait for them to arrive.

Can't find the post but I remember reading that the Hollow shaft, coupling, etc, and other hardware can be bought from a girl if you email her?

Can you buy some of the hardware ( hallow shaft, coupling, etc) from aliexpress? They have a Black Friday coming up very shortly.

Or should I stick to the vendors on the list?
 
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Two questions:

1) How do I lubricate the linear bearing?

2) How do I prevent stripping theads in the mounts? The holes for the M4 and M5 bolts in the mounts and sliders were too small to get the bolts into. For the slider I just needed to thread a tap into the first bit of the holes. For the M4 holes in the fixed mount, I needed to run the tap all the way through otherwise the bolts did not go in easy . I screwed up one of these because I managed to strip the threads. Then on the M6 bolts for the linear bear I didn't need to tap these and 3 of 4 bolts went in pretty easy, but one was harder to turn and I managed to strip it too.

So, any tips I getting the bolts in easier?
 
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After bolting the fixed bearing mount into the profile I get some binding. The shaft is much harder to turn by hand. If I remove the bolts, then it turns freely. There appears to be an alignment issue between the slider bearing and the fixed bearing (linear bearing is not installed). I don't see how I can make this better. Anyone else have this issue? The shaft turns fine with the drill so this probably will still work fine but it seems like is unnecessary strain in the system.

The slider fit snugly in the profile but slides easily with no play. The fixed mount bolt holes line up with the profile bolt holes and edges. The fixed bearing fits perfectly in the mount. So it seems like the print is good. Not sure why these don't align well.
 
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Aliexpress list:


Are these parts tested comparable in quality to the German based parts?

Do I ask the seller to chamfer the hallow shaft? Do they offer that service?

What else do I need to ask?
 
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After bolting the fixed bearing mount into the profile I get some binding. The shaft is much harder to turn by hand. If I remove the bolts, then it turns freely. There appears to be an alignment issue between the slider bearing and the fixed bearing (linear bearing is not installed). I don't see how I can make this better. Anyone else have this issue? The shaft turns fine with the drill so this probably will still work fine but it seems like is unnecessary strain in the system.

The slider fit snugly in the profile but slides easily with no play. The fixed mount bolt holes line up with the profile bolt holes and edges. The fixed bearing fits perfectly in the mount. So it seems like the print is good. Not sure why these don't align well.

Hi Ryan, sometimes these tolerances stack against you and you can find it works better by doing a few things. One could be to rotate the top plate the top plate by 90 degrees and see if that helps. I would only screw down the top plate when the slider is in the highest position. Simlarly only screw down the bottom parts when the slider is in the lowest position.

Sometimes if it doesnt work then swap your top plate with another from a different actuator it it works.. To get all mine going the smoothest I had to mix things around a little until I had the best parts that fit with each other.
 
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