The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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I have had my OSW glitch like that a couple of times in 3 months of driving in iRacing so I can't really attribute it to the SFX. Have not had any issues with elevation changes - may be the tracks I have run on - my sensor is mounted on the rig a few feet in front of the rift, slightly above it.

I totally agree about getting a comfortable driving position, more upright and closer to the wheel feels to me like it gives me more control. A well positioned heel rest has definitely improved my braking control when things get bumpy.
 
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That version is about as laser scanned as Mario Circuit!! I might be a snob but there’s only one proper version of Bathurst and that’s iRacing - which is near perfect.

It’s such a shame no other developers have spent the money to do another proper laser scanned version of the best track in the world!

But only at this time of the year ;)
snap_c1.png
 
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Well, thank you!

I'm curious what you might be talking about - with that being one of the major connection points for the actuator I cant picture a 3DP part that would hold up!
I assume your talking about the gap between the bracket and profile.. you are using a 40mm bracket yes?

Just need a small 5mm 40x40 plate with 9mm clearance hole in the middle..

Here you go

29M1L2b.png

6hZOtHu.jpg
 
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I assume your talking about the gap between the bracket and profile.. you are using a 40mm bracket yes?

Just need a small 5mm 40x40 plate with 9mm clearance hole in the middle..
They're 1.5" (about 38mm) - the problem is the screws are designed to be used without a gap. I'll either need longer screws or different brackets.

Thanks though! You've been helping me out since the first day I posted haha
 
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My gusseted brackets have a big slot so I was able to bridge the gap and just slide them forward to make the channel in the 100mm profile line up with the bolt. The spacer will be fine. I'm using similar ones (10mm window packers) to space the gap for the V3 mounting bolts. This thing is suspended in mid air with them! Seems fine. Although I do need to find time to swap the bolts that I am using currently out for the ones I bought that make up the length of the additional space. I don't even think I need to it feels fine. But, just in case.
 
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Of course, i'm totally regretting offloading all my spare brackets, fixings and extrusion left over from my P1/NLMv3 build. I remember thinking "what possible use could I have for any of that now? My rig is complete!", lol.
 
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