The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Ringorian]

Anyone figure out the high pitch sound yet? Apparently it is very common thing with servo motors but I find it odd that just one of my 4 produce the sound. I wonder if everyone has at least one actuator producing the sound and those who don't hear it are just too old (older you get the less high frequencies you can hear). Maybe it has something to do with wiring them in a series?

Are you talking about SFX100 or the pt Actuators ?

 

[sn4il]

Like I said the other three were very close so I would recommend the PLA as it is definitely the easiest to print. The iGlide stuff was hell to print, even tougher than the Taulman.. super expensive.. not recommended for our purpose anyway.

Thank you!
On top of that slider prints fast, around 6 hrs and can be easily replaced when needed.
You could probably print all 4 with single 1kg spool of filament.

 

[leeroy605]

Servos came yesterday so I am having a go at the wiring today so I can test them. It's true what people have said, once all the parts are in front of you the instructions do start to make sense!

One question though. On some of the wiring diagrams I've seen that use wagos, they've put A0 from the arduino to the wago then fed this out to port 6 on each db25 breakout. I've followed the guide and done A0 to A3 from Arduino to #6 on each motor individually.

Does it matter which way round this is done? Or are both going to work? Thanks!

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

For some reason I've been let down twice by 2 different suppliers for the 25pin leads.

These are what I need, yes?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002VZURLO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8Z30HEYE6OTY&psc=1

 

[C64]

Hi c64

Hi c64, are you up and running with your motion cockpit with sxf100's? I ask you because I would like to know if the 2 profiles for the seat will or will not touch the floor when using the actuators. I actually just finished my build and would like to place my baquet further down. Exactly like yours.
Hope you are actually riding your motion cockpit!
Rgds

Been using it every day since the end of october , as long as nothing touches the floor inside the 4 legs when the rig is off ( lowest position ) then they will never touch no matter how extreme the movement.

 

[pass-low]

For some reason I've been let down twice by 2 different suppliers for the 25pin leads.

These are what I need, yes?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002VZURLO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8Z30HEYE6OTY&psc=1

i got mine from here
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Serial-C...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[Furnace Inferno]

For some reason I've been let down twice by 2 different suppliers for the 25pin leads.

These are what I need, yes?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002VZURLO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8Z30HEYE6OTY&psc=1

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Serial-C...rentrq:8790258d1690aca446763313fffa5141|iid:1

Those are the ones I got, took a week to arrive though as they were using 2nd class but all got here fine.

 

[DotComRich]

Are you talking about SFX100 or the pt Actuators ?

I have the pt's but I am willing to bet the cause of the sound will be the same for both.

 

[Mascot]

Can you tell what it is yet?

 

[NeedforSim]

Can you tell what it is yet?

Those are to place under the actuators. those with hooks, are for safety belts

 

[Mascot]

Those are to place under the actuators. those with hooks, are for safety belts

Winner!
Knocked them up as an experiment but they seem to work really well. Tension increases in the harness webbing as the SFX100 dips under braking as per @anton_Chez /@Steve D's patented mechanism. Crossing the belts at the back keeps the eyenut/carbine linkages clear of the actuators.

Quite impressed with this £30 knock-off Sparco harness with 3" webbing.
This is the first time I've used a harness in any of my sim rigs and it does feel good. It's a pain in the ass every time you need to reach for something not in your immediate radius though...

 

[Tim Palmgren]

I will unashamedly steal these ideas.

 

[Flag Ghost]

What do you think about attaching the lap belts down there as well? To me it makes sense that the shoulder and lap belts should tension up under braking.

 

[razzta01]

Been using it every day since the end of october , as long as nothing touches the floor inside the 4 legs when the rig is off ( lowest position ) then they will never touch no matter how extreme the movement.

Excellent news! Thx mate!

 

[razzta01]

The extrusion can be under like C64's pic. I have the same and there is no worry that it will touch the ground.

Thx mate! Great news. Will do so then.

 

[anton_Chez]

@Mascot, I am stealing that idea also. That looks like a good way to keep the thing from walking as well and is SUPER clean. I gather a hole saw bit at the correct size is what's used to cut the timber out? Is that ply? Looks like it.

Also, your knock off harness. I have a knock off, too. Can you link where you bought it? I'd like to know how your shoulder buckles are. This is the problem I had with my knock off. There are no springs on the shoulder strap buckles and this was letting my tension come loose while in motion. I've since hacked together a little fix for it which works, but it makes it a pain to loosed them. I was considering just buying a full legit one so that I can have full functionality and probably a lighter cam lock and also more comfort. But this will run me over 300 bucks. Curious how you find your knock off and if you run into the issue I did. Run a few stints in Dirt Rally with motion, it should come loose in that if it's ever going to. I found I needed to tighten mine at least once per lap while circuit racing. Annoying and not great for the overall purpose of having it.

 

[ScottSonder]

I wired up my servos today, with all 4 in jog, the whine is REAL. Wow. I hope the software does not produce the jog whine, but yeah it probably will. My pops couldn't hear it at all though, so maybe that's why the testimony is so wide-ranging. It seems like a very personal issue, but somehow, even with my bad hearing, I got hit right in the frequency range.

Edit: Actually, it does seem like just a weird controller whine when you go into Jog_1. I just watched the YT video that showed how you spin them in Jog_0, and I just went and tried that. Whine only was only output while servo spinned at a much lower volume. Jog_1 always outputs a crazy loud noise no matter how faster the servo spun, so I thought that might be the case when in use, but that's not likely after testing again. We'll see what's up when I wire the arduino in, but that's a definite relief.

Also, @Mascot that looks awesome, and I request more information on this patented mechanism? Always thought a little tension restriction under braking would help a lot without more servos.

 

[Mascot]

What do you think about attaching the lap belts down there as well? To me it makes sense that the shoulder and lap belts should tension up under braking.

Yeah, I did think about that and it'd be pretty easy to implement - just another eyebolt on the same pad for the lap webbing. It didn't feel odd without it though and I didn't feel like the effect was missing under braking - if anything, the fact that there's no lap tensioning might accentuate the surge felt in the chest from the shoulder straps. I might try it though, but I was keen to avoid contact between the lap belt and the seat bolsters to avoid wear on the seat over time. That's why my lap webbing is attached where it is on the sides of the P1 chassis.

@Mascot, I am stealing that idea also. That looks like a good way to keep the thing from walking as well and is SUPER clean. I gather a hole saw bit at the correct size is what's used to cut the timber out? Is that ply? Looks like it.

Yeah, I used one of those 5-in-1 hole saws like this one:

The largest size just happened to be a perfect fit for the rubber anti-vibration feet.
The square plywood pads are just things I happened to have, salvaged from somewhere. I thought they'd come in handy one day. I'd previously used them a few years ago in a stack to raise up the TH8 shifter on my old Recaro Playseat rig, so they've definitely been useful..!

For this use with the SFX the floor pads are made from two pieces of ply: the top piece has the large hole cut in it and has a M8 countersunk socket screw coming from underneath to take the M8 eyenut. The bottom piece is a blank with countersunk screws going up into the top piece to join them together cleanly. There's a hole in this bottom blank so that an Allen key can be inserted to tighten the csk socket screw if necessary, but as the socket screw is captive (sandwiched between the upper and lower pads) and the eyenut can't rotate more than a few degrees because of the harness belt, it'll never be able to undo. Having it slightly loose and able to rotate means the eyenut self-aligns with the tension in the harness linkages. A square of self-adhesive neoprene on the base gives grip and noise damping.

Also, your knock off harness. I have a knock off, too. Can you link where you bought it? I'd like to know how your shoulder buckles are. This is the problem I had with my knock off. There are no springs on the shoulder strap buckles and this was letting my tension come loose while in motion. I've since hacked together a little fix for it which works, but it makes it a pain to loosed them. I was considering just buying a full legit one so that I can have full functionality and probably a lighter cam lock and also more comfort. But this will run me over 300 bucks. Curious how you find your knock off and if you run into the issue I did. Run a few stints in Dirt Rally with motion, it should come loose in that if it's ever going to. I found I needed to tighten mine at least once per lap while circuit racing. Annoying and not great for the overall purpose of having it.

This is the one I bought from eBay, £30 delivered from China. Took about ten days to arrive.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Black-3-4-Point-Camlock-Quick-Release-Racing-Car-Seat-Belt-Harness-EL/382624492545?_trkparms=ao=1&asc=20140728113935&meid=dee94f011da24f21a64fe0306759e22a&pid=100148&&itm=382624492545&_trksid=p2059210.c100148.m2813

Quality seems good and the belts are plenty long enough. The shoulder buckles haven't slipped during the brief testing I've done. In fact, they're quite hard to adjust and solid once done. The lap straps have easily adjustable buckles (lift-and-pull) with knurled grippers, but the shoulder and rear buckles are more basic, but effective. Once my harness is set I'm not going to want to be continually adjusting it anyway. I have it set quite tight in the 'neutral' SFX raised platform position, but of course I put the harness on when the platform is down and the tension is more relaxed. It's much easier this way. Then when you hit 'start' to raise the platform the harness tightens and I can imagine what a leg of lamb feels like when it's getting vacuum-sealed in plastic.

Also, @Mascot that looks awesome, and I request more information on this patented mechanism? Always thought a little tension restriction under braking would help a lot without more servos.

It's a simple method that @anton_Chez /@Steve D came up with of clamping the webbing attachments under the actuator feet so that they stay fixed relative to the floor and don't move with the cockpit, thus allowing cockpit movement to provide harness tension under surge. Some people have their cockpits mounted on a fixed platform and can drill/fix into that, but for those of us without a platform it means we haven't got to fix brackets into our floor.

 

[Mascot]

Little update: stole another idea from @Steve D's Harness Consultancy™ and added a couple of rigging screws for fine-tuning the tension. Looks a little neater too, I reckon.

 

[Steve D]

Y
It's a simple method that @Steve D came up with of clamping the webbing attachments under the actuator feet so that they stay fixed relative to the floor and don't move with the cockpit, thus allowing cockpit movement to provide harness tension under surge. Some people have their cockpits mounted on a fixed platform and can drill/fix into that, but for those of us without a platform it means we haven't got to fix brackets into our floor.

I can't lay claim to the idea Steve mate. Think our good buddy @anton_Chez may have mentioned it first, (and some time ago), about using the weight of the rig to hold the harness mounting points down without having to secure to the floor directly. I simply built upon his idea and added my own 'flavour' as we all do.