The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by sjb266, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. Mascot

    Mascot
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    Slightly off-topic-but-maybe-helpful, I've got a £4 off voucher for a £25 spend at Amazon UK if anyone wants it. It expires today and there's nothing I need, and I don't *think* it's tied to my account. The stuff you are ordering has to be fulfilled by Amazon, not third-party sellers. Might be of use to someone ordering SFX100 bits and bobs? PM me if you want it.
     
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  2. TitomakY

    TitomakY

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  3. Talkwrench

    Talkwrench

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  4. acekrusty23

    acekrusty23

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    Just got a quote for the 3D printing. $1650.00.
    Melbourne based company. Think I’ll try and do my own prints.
     
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  5. RowanH

    RowanH
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    @acekrusty23 Bought a Prusa i3 kit into NZ; one of my best tool purchases ever. Significant "partner acceptance factor" by printing out alsorts of cool little stuff round the house. Actually had to compete with print time for the SFX system. "Here's 1 print for you, and 1 print for the Sim Rig".
     
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  6. frankrizzo2

    frankrizzo2

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    IMG_20190209_224054.jpg IMG_20190209_224109.jpg IMG_20190209_224120.jpg IMG_20190209_224127.jpg I've found a solution for those of you without grease guns or those who don't want to spend the money on one just to use it once. I bought some Lucas White Lithium grease in a squeeze tube and basically trimmed the end to fit up nicely against the grease fitting hole of the ball screw. Just put down some good pressure as you squeeze the tube for 5-8 seconds and you will see the grease coming out from where the screw part is. I had the grease fittings and grease gun but I wanted to try this to see if it would work. Hope it helps.
     
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  7. TimothyDDX

    TimothyDDX
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    I am not a grease expert but I do not know if I would recommend using white lithium grease as it is designed for slow moving friction (house and car door hinges, garage door tracks) and actually gets thicker (increase viscosity) as it ages. Also while we are not running super high temp use case with the ball screws, it actually says not to apply it to bearings as another trait is that it increases breakdown with temp which increases viscosity and makes it thicker. A general purpose red grease or bearing grease might work better as the motor is turning at 3000 rpm which is much higher than many applications.
     
  8. frankrizzo2

    frankrizzo2

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    I did some looking at a few different places on the web for a proper lubricant for ball screws and lithium grease was fine for a lubricant from information that I found. I wanted to make sure I chose a proper grease that was available in my area and I didn't read any negatives against it but if you would care to share your findings I would appreciate it. I want to do whatever makes them last the longest but they are not supposed to go untreated as they are only sent with a rust inhibitor from the factory.

    Edit: here is a link to one of the articles that I read. I'm not saying that I'm right, it's just a that I haven't found any evidence against using it.
    https://www.mromagazine.com/features/understanding-ball-screw-lubrication/
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019 at 06:59
  9. Mascot

    Mascot
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  10. Mascot

    Mascot
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    DP, sorry
     
  11. acekrusty23

    acekrusty23

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    4664BE8D-7AD0-4990-8678-74DF82FD36E8.png
    Ok, I’m looking at the prusa i3 or the ender 3 pro. See how it goes. Just got the prices from Emily for the internals. $360 aud shipped. Does that sound about right? Thanks.
     
  12. anton_Chez

    anton_Chez
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    Sounds spot on mate, pretty much exactly the same as my cost to Australia.

    :thumbsup: ............................................ :unsure:

    We all know if anyone's is going to break first, it will be mine. You can all then rush to disassemble your actuators and do it NOT how I did.

    I didn't grease anything in mine. Except for the linear bearing where the shaft makes contact. I could more than likely get them done the way they are now, mounted, but we all now what happened the last time I was convinced to try this.

    At least I now know how to put ball bearings back in a ball screw nut......

    :whistling:
     
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  13. jimbraj

    jimbraj

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    prusa FTW!
     
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  14. C64

    C64

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    A alternative route to getting your parts printed...

    1. Approach existing builders in your area and see if one of them is willing to print the parts for you

    2. You pay for Filament ( whatever they specify ) or buy filament and ship it to them... I suggest 4 x 1kg rolls

    3. You pay for collection and shipping the parts back

    4. You make an additional significant donation to the SFX100 team... at least $100 USD

    The purpose of step 4 is to incentivise the person doing the printing... they know that their efforts are going back to the SFX100 project.

    I have specified 4 x 1kg rolls... we only need 3 rolls... the extra roll is to cover energy used and any mis-prints.

    If you are like me... printing stuff is very satisfying, and even more so when you know it will be used :)

    There should be no compulsion... just doing each other favours. It is not a burden printing this stuff once you know what you are doing.
     
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  15. sjb266

    sjb266

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    3 USB cables later.... I think i found one that will hopefully keep working!

    On the subject of 3D printing... buy one....one of the best things i've ever bought... Equal parts brilliant and frustrating... but I never stop making stuff!
     
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  16. BrassEm

    BrassEm

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    Damn! That is the cost of a Prusa Mk3 kit, 5kg of PETG and some slabs!

    As far as grease is concerned my personal preference would be for a high speed machine grease. Less than ideal grease does contribute to heat but I don't think it will be a show stopper for a long time.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019 at 10:52
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  17. anton_Chez

    anton_Chez
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    I felt kinda bad chuckling to myself at the issues with peeling and warping edges etc. from some of the recent posts. My prints are immaculate. Thanks once again Simon, amazing work.

    Your USB cables have been causing the dropouts? Are they extension or just regular length. I've found recently that not all cables are created equally and sometimes different pieces of hardware react differently to a given cable. I've never had so much problems with USB since starting sim racing. Every time you add another device you add another swear word to your vocabulary.

    I have heaps now..... :thumbsup:
     
  18. BenKay

    BenKay
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    I'm quite an experienced 3D printer, but I cannot get the square prints to print flat (i.e. linear, fixed and motor mounts)....they are not peeling off the bed, but seem to warp as they cool at the end of the print as soon as they're released from the build plate...very odd...It's marginal and a very gradual curve rather than sharp corner warping, so I hope they will be ok anyway.
     
  19. anton_Chez

    anton_Chez
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    Just in case people missed it that haven't been following for a while, I had NO part in any of my 3D printing apart from opening the box when it arrived at my house. All credit goes to Simon and his fantastic attention to detail.
     
  20. sjb266

    sjb266

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    PLA -> Glass bed.. 60° - Spray the bed with isopropyl alcohol before printing... perfect!

    PETG -> only did the high wear parts so warping wasn't an issue
     
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