The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Mascot]

Slightly off-topic-but-maybe-helpful, I've got a £4 off voucher for a £25 spend at Amazon UK if anyone wants it. It expires today and there's nothing I need, and I don't *think* it's tied to my account. The stuff you are ordering has to be fulfilled by Amazon, not third-party sellers. Might be of use to someone ordering SFX100 bits and bobs? PM me if you want it.

 

[TitomakY]

Looks amazing and relatively simple to implement, care to share the Arduino Sketch?

I used this https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/

 

[Talkwrench]

I used this https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/

Excellent stuff, I already have a very similar set up from my previous, now scrapped build. I have the SMC3 loaded on an UNO with a sabertooth just begging to be used for something. What did you use for position feedback?

Sorry for the off topic, last question i promise

 

[acekrusty23]

Just got a quote for the 3D printing. $1650.00.
Melbourne based company. Think I’ll try and do my own prints.

 

[RowanH]

@acekrusty23 Bought a Prusa i3 kit into NZ; one of my best tool purchases ever. Significant "partner acceptance factor" by printing out alsorts of cool little stuff round the house. Actually had to compete with print time for the SFX system. "Here's 1 print for you, and 1 print for the Sim Rig".

 

[frankrizzo2]

I've found a solution for those of you without grease guns or those who don't want to spend the money on one just to use it once. I bought some Lucas White Lithium grease in a squeeze tube and basically trimmed the end to fit up nicely against the grease fitting hole of the ball screw. Just put down some good pressure as you squeeze the tube for 5-8 seconds and you will see the grease coming out from where the screw part is. I had the grease fittings and grease gun but I wanted to try this to see if it would work. Hope it helps.

 

[TimothyDDX]

I am not a grease expert but I do not know if I would recommend using white lithium grease as it is designed for slow moving friction (house and car door hinges, garage door tracks) and actually gets thicker (increase viscosity) as it ages. Also while we are not running super high temp use case with the ball screws, it actually says not to apply it to bearings as another trait is that it increases breakdown with temp which increases viscosity and makes it thicker. A general purpose red grease or bearing grease might work better as the motor is turning at 3000 rpm which is much higher than many applications.

 

[frankrizzo2]

I did some looking at a few different places on the web for a proper lubricant for ball screws and lithium grease was fine for a lubricant from information that I found. I wanted to make sure I chose a proper grease that was available in my area and I didn't read any negatives against it but if you would care to share your findings I would appreciate it. I want to do whatever makes them last the longest but they are not supposed to go untreated as they are only sent with a rust inhibitor from the factory.

Edit: here is a link to one of the articles that I read. I'm not saying that I'm right, it's just a that I haven't found any evidence against using it.
https://www.mromagazine.com/features/understanding-ball-screw-lubrication/

 

[Mascot]

This is the stuff I used in my grease gun. Am I already dead?
View attachment 291062

 

[Mascot]

DP, sorry

 

[acekrusty23]

@acekrusty23 Bought a Prusa i3 kit into NZ; one of my best tool purchases ever. Significant "partner acceptance factor" by printing out alsorts of cool little stuff round the house. Actually had to compete with print time for the SFX system. "Here's 1 print for you, and 1 print for the Sim Rig".

Ok, I’m looking at the prusa i3 or the ender 3 pro. See how it goes. Just got the prices from Emily for the internals. $360 aud shipped. Does that sound about right? Thanks.

 

[anton_Chez]

Sounds spot on mate, pretty much exactly the same as my cost to Australia.

but they are not supposed to go untreated as they are only sent with a rust inhibitor from the factory.

............................................

Am I already dead?

We all know if anyone's is going to break first, it will be mine. You can all then rush to disassemble your actuators and do it NOT how I did.

I didn't grease anything in mine. Except for the linear bearing where the shaft makes contact. I could more than likely get them done the way they are now, mounted, but we all now what happened the last time I was convinced to try this.

At least I now know how to put ball bearings back in a ball screw nut......

 

[jimbraj]

View attachment 291064

Ok, I’m looking at the prusa i3 or the ender 3 pro. See how it goes. Just got the prices from Emily for the internals. $360 aud shipped. Does that sound about right? Thanks.

prusa FTW!

 

[C64]

Just got a quote for the 3D printing. $1650.00.
Melbourne based company. Think I’ll try and do my own prints.

A alternative route to getting your parts printed...

1. Approach existing builders in your area and see if one of them is willing to print the parts for you

2. You pay for Filament ( whatever they specify ) or buy filament and ship it to them... I suggest 4 x 1kg rolls

3. You pay for collection and shipping the parts back

4. You make an additional significant donation to the SFX100 team... at least $100 USD

The purpose of step 4 is to incentivise the person doing the printing... they know that their efforts are going back to the SFX100 project.

I have specified 4 x 1kg rolls... we only need 3 rolls... the extra roll is to cover energy used and any mis-prints.

If you are like me... printing stuff is very satisfying, and even more so when you know it will be used

There should be no compulsion... just doing each other favours. It is not a burden printing this stuff once you know what you are doing.

 

[sjb266]

Damn, as always .. check your cables and or USB Controllert ..
I checked mine, there was a complete unused one in my pc .. so i thought, i take that for the sfx100 controller .. That thing didnt even run for 30 seconds ... was an asmedia 3.1 .. so everything back on the one .. and works .. USB is a pita ..

3 USB cables later.... I think i found one that will hopefully keep working!

On the subject of 3D printing... buy one....one of the best things i've ever bought... Equal parts brilliant and frustrating... but I never stop making stuff!

 

[BrassEm]

Just got a quote for the 3D printing. $1650.00.
Melbourne based company. Think I’ll try and do my own prints.

Damn! That is the cost of a Prusa Mk3 kit, 5kg of PETG and some slabs!

As far as grease is concerned my personal preference would be for a high speed machine grease. Less than ideal grease does contribute to heat but I don't think it will be a show stopper for a long time.

 

[anton_Chez]

Equal parts brilliant and frustrating... but I never stop making stuff!

I felt kinda bad chuckling to myself at the issues with peeling and warping edges etc. from some of the recent posts. My prints are immaculate. Thanks once again Simon, amazing work.

Your USB cables have been causing the dropouts? Are they extension or just regular length. I've found recently that not all cables are created equally and sometimes different pieces of hardware react differently to a given cable. I've never had so much problems with USB since starting sim racing. Every time you add another device you add another swear word to your vocabulary.

I have heaps now.....

 

[BenKay]

I felt kinda bad chuckling to myself at the issues with peeling and warping edges etc. from some of the recent posts. My prints are immaculate. Thanks once again Simon, amazing work.

Your USB cables have been causing the dropouts? Are they extension or just regular length. I've found recently that not all cables are created equally and sometimes different pieces of hardware react differently to a given cable. I've never had so much problems with USB since starting sim racing. Every time you add another device you add another swear word to your vocabulary.

I have heaps now.....

I'm quite an experienced 3D printer, but I cannot get the square prints to print flat (i.e. linear, fixed and motor mounts)....they are not peeling off the bed, but seem to warp as they cool at the end of the print as soon as they're released from the build plate...very odd...It's marginal and a very gradual curve rather than sharp corner warping, so I hope they will be ok anyway.

 

[anton_Chez]

Just in case people missed it that haven't been following for a while, I had NO part in any of my 3D printing apart from opening the box when it arrived at my house. All credit goes to Simon and his fantastic attention to detail.

 

[sjb266]

PLA -> Glass bed.. 60° - Spray the bed with isopropyl alcohol before printing... perfect!

PETG -> only did the high wear parts so warping wasn't an issue