The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Steve D · Feb 9, 2019

Mascot said:
Wow, that looks super-neat Steve. How did you get such clean edges? Ref my idea above I'm thinking some proper anti-vibration foam might be a better bet, although the high-density neoprene (used for industrial gaskets) seems pretty good. Where did you source the foam from?
I'm also thinking 130mm diameter (actual 100mm diameter neoprene) might not be enough to spread the load sufficiently, so I might ditch the discs and go bigger. Shame, as they look quite neat.

Hi Steve,

With regards materials:

MDF circles (I went 3mm thick / 20mm diameter)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MDF-Circle-10cm-20cm-30cm-40cm-50cm-3mm-6mm-Wooden/112559284941?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=412957756378&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Anti vibration foam (15mm, 60cm x 60cm sheet)

https://www.floormats.co.uk/structural-protection-rubber-mat-15mm

Carpet tile. (Had some 'overs' having recently re-tiled my offices)

Making them up was a 'labour of love' but I basically made a thick wooden die, the same size as the MDF circle, used a bandsaw to cut, (the 15mm av material is too dense to do by hand) and a carpet knife, scissors and a file to finish.

Specialist68 · Feb 9, 2019

Hey Guys,
Has someone of you also " Warping " with the printing parts? this is with Petg
It is only on the bottom, after that it prints fine to the top, But it is the connection on the profile wich fail

Whatever I do, temps, nozzle, bed,speed
But every attempt results in hours of printing before it happens ... sooooooo loooong ...
A Raft perhaps?
Soltion anybody?

Specialist68 · Feb 9, 2019

Rfactor2 plugin destroys my sound when I "start" SimFeedback , after stop it plays normal again
In Iracing no problem at all
Test it on 3 computers all the same is there another plugin available ?

HoiHman · Feb 9, 2019

Specialist68 said:
Hey Guys,
Has someone of you also " Warping " with the printing parts? this is with Petg
It is only on the bottom, after that it prints fine to the top, But it is the connection on the profile wich fail
View attachment 290504
Whatever I do, temps, nozzle, bed,speed
But every attempt results in hours of printing before it happens ... sooooooo loooong ...
A Raft perhaps?
Soltion anybody?

A bit of warping on edge of a corner should be no problem at all, but that looks like it's too much.

Tips:
- Use glue (pritt stick)
- Heated bed
- Build enclosure
- Print the first layer very slow (8mm/s)

Specialist68 · Feb 9, 2019

HoiHman said:
A bit of warping on edge of a corner should be no problem at all, but that looks like it's too much.

Tips:
- Use glue (pritt stick)
- Heated bed
- Build enclosure
- Print the first layer very slow (8mm/s)

All done, its the material warm to cold shrinkage
all my prints come of perfect except this "solid " block
Again now with very thick Raft 8 layer, Waiting ....

Steve D · Feb 9, 2019

Specialist68 said:
Rfactor2 plugin destroys my sound when I "start" SimFeedback , after stop it plays normal again
In Iracing no problem at all
Test it on 3 computers all the same is there another plugin available ?

Is it crackling / broken in places? If so, in SimFeedback / Setup, try changing the Soundcard option.

Also, within the rF2 profile you are using, try disabling RPM, (if enabled), but more so, any Shaker effects if you've added them.

HoiHman · Feb 9, 2019

Specialist68 said:
All done, its the material warm to cold shrinkage
all my prints come of perfect except this "solid " block
Again now with very thick Raft 8 layer, Waiting ....

Sometimes the solution can be easy: Try a different brand PTEG, there's something a big difference between the brands.

C64 · Feb 9, 2019

HoiHman said:
Sometimes the solution can be easy: Try a different brand PTEG, there's something a big difference between the brands.

Print in PLA, don't use fan cooling, try a sheet of PEI on your print bed ( PEI works great with geeetech black PLA 210 deg 50 deg bed ). Try .3mm layers, make sure you get a really good "squish" on the first layer to maximise adhesion. You do not need PTEG or any other "strong" material for these parts.

As mentioned further on - this warping will not affect the performance of the part, it's just not as pretty !

BluePotato00 · Feb 9, 2019

I read on Reddit that there is a $5,000USD set of 4 motion actuators from China:
https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/aoanbd/upgrade_complete/

Here's a product link:
http://pt-actuator.com/proshow.asp?strID=156

It's more cost-effective than D-Box, but SFX-100 is still the greatest bargain in sim racing!

HugoB · Feb 9, 2019

Specialist68 said:
All done, its the material warm to cold shrinkage
all my prints come of perfect except this "solid " block
Again now with very thick Raft 8 layer, Waiting ....

Once you screw it on tightly, maybe the warping is less visible? As long as the actuators work, it doesn’t really matter. I think almost everyone had light to moderate warping with the big blocks, it’s a tough piece to print.

Dennis Karlsson · Feb 9, 2019

I had some warping before and it was because of loose bed. I tightened the bolts on the rollers underneath the bed and that solved the problem.

I have a Creality Ender 3.

Specialist68 · Feb 9, 2019

HoiHman said:
Sometimes the solution can be easy: Try a different brand PTEG, there's something a big difference between the brands.

Thanks, But I bought a 3 Kg rol so expensive but I try a few times

HugoB said:
Once you screw it on tightly, maybe the warping is less visible? As long as the actuators work, it doesn’t really matter. I think almost everyone had light to moderate warping with the big blocks, it’s a tough piece to print.

no the 4 bolts are flat to surface thus no less visible
And Raft no results come lose because the contact is much less
So i had the printer setting adjust from Saxxo66 with higher infilL 35% and nozzle 0.2
This time I wil take his settings 0.25 layer only 20% infill and speed 40 ( i had 25 )
wait and see, thank for al your response

BluePotato00 · Feb 9, 2019

Dirt Rally and Dirt 4 use the same telemetry provider in SimFeedback. Any guesses as to whether Dirt Rally 2.0 will be similar?

Since the announcement of VR support, I'm considering pre-ordering it from Steam before the sale ends so I can at least get $5 off.

saxxon66 · Feb 9, 2019

The big blocks are really difficult to print.
Looking at them you think difficult?

They always have the tendency at the corners to detach themselves from the base.

This does not happen with the first layers but rather in the last third.
I printed them in winter and my printer is in the basement.
In the end, the remedy was an enclosure.

I couldn't do it one hundred percent, in the end it was 0.2 - 0.3 mm.

HoiHman · Feb 9, 2019

BluePotato00 said:
Dirt Rally and Dirt 4 use the same telemetry provider in SimFeedback. Any guesses as to whether Dirt Rally 2.0 will be similar?

Since the announcement of VR support, I'm considering pre-ordering it from Steam before the sale ends so I can at least get $5 off.

Probably YES, because F1 2018 works with the same (Legacy) telemetry provider to. Personally though for only $5 i would wait until the type of telemetry output is confirmed or buy a CD key at a lower price just after the release.

anton_Chez · Feb 10, 2019

By the time VR is implemented into DR 2.0, I will be into the Pimax. Which means no support for me at the current stage. How did the PC platform become such a walled garden? It's just like owning a 10x more expensive console these days.

If it wasn't for sim racing, I don't think I'd even be a part of it anymore and I've been gaming 30 years. It actually disgusts me to the point of anger. They've ruined something that's been with me my whole life.

Sorry for off topic. I'll be waiting until VR is actually implemented into the game before even considering a purchase. Until the recent news I had it completely off the radar. No interest. With the addition of 6 rally locations through DLC bringing the total up to 12, combined with DR 1 locations, that's like 18 between the two titles. Would be awesome to have that at your disposal whenever itching for an off road experience.

AlexP37 · Feb 10, 2019

@Specialist68

Petg settings, you can try.

Bed temp 70 - 80 degrees with blue tape
Turn off the fan for the first 4 to 5 layers. Print all other layers with 50% fan.
Z- height nozzle 0.2 mm, dont let it touch the bed or the material whilst printing.
Build an enclosure, just take a big box and test if it helps.

sjb266 · Feb 10, 2019

My damn system keeps shutting down (disconnecting) mid race... so annoying..

Specialist68 · Feb 10, 2019

saxxon66 said:
The big blocks are really difficult to print.
Looking at them you think difficult?

They always have the tendency at the corners to detach themselves from the base.

This does not happen with the first layers but rather in the last third.
I printed them in winter and my printer is in the basement.
In the end, the remedy was an enclosure.

I couldn't do it one hundred percent, in the end it was 0.2 - 0.3 mm.

If that was my case I dont care but mine are 5 mm away from the m8 bolt that to

Steve D said:
Is it crackling / broken in places? If so, in SimFeedback / Setup, try changing the Soundcard option.

Also, within the rF2 profile you are using, try disabling RPM, (if enabled), but more so, any Shaker effects if you've added them.

Almost forgotten to reply,
It was the "RPM" option to disable
Or in setup the shaker option soundcard on a unused soundcard ( my optical setting )
Then you can choose RPM enable again
Maybe a litle bug to solve in a next release ( Micha ? )

You saved my day! Because Rfactor2 is my main simulator for online racing
The sound is perfect again.