The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

BluePotato00 · Feb 10, 2019

Mascot said:
What's best practise for fixing wagos to plywood? Double-sided tape?

I used superglue. It bonds solidly.

anton_Chez · Feb 10, 2019

Damn that reminds me, I bought some wago's and a 10m length of silicon wrapped wire to redo the electronics. I seriously haven't felt the need though. Breadboard seems to be holding up quite nicely upside down in my control box. The option is always there if I decide I want to break something in the near future. Speaking of...

sjb266 said:
My damn system keeps shutting down (disconnecting) mid race... so annoying..

How so, Simon? Are you getting restarts, or the SFX-100 is powering down mid race? I just did two back to back 39 lap sprints in the V8's and for the first time I ran both my motion platforms and Shake It for tactile, along with the Rift. Apart from the sauna on my face and the buckle in my legs after nearly 2 hours heel toe downshifting around the hell that is Adelaide, nothing else broke!

How?

Ringorian · Feb 10, 2019

sjb266 said:
My damn system keeps shutting down (disconnecting) mid race... so annoying..

Damn, as always .. check your cables and or USB Controllert ..
I checked mine, there was a complete unused one in my pc .. so i thought, i take that for the sfx100 controller .. That thing didnt even run for 30 seconds ... was an asmedia 3.1 .. so everything back on the one .. and works .. USB is a pita ..

TitomakY · Feb 10, 2019

Hello everyone, I would like to present my platform SFX-100 with hybrid system fused. You can appreciate how the raw power of the SFX and my old 2dof system can do wonders.

Todd Pakiz · Feb 10, 2019

Specialist68 said:
Hey Guys,
Has someone of you also " Warping " with the printing parts? this is with Petg
It is only on the bottom, after that it prints fine to the top, But it is the connection on the profile wich fail
View attachment 290504
Whatever I do, temps, nozzle, bed,speed
But every attempt results in hours of printing before it happens ... sooooooo loooong ...
A Raft perhaps?
Soltion anybody?

Don't be afraid to use a BRIM instead of a "SKIRT" or "RAFT"....that will help hold the corners down.

adekid · Feb 11, 2019

TitomakY said:
Hello everyone, I would like to present my platform SFX-100 with hybrid system fused. You can appreciate how the raw power of the SFX and my old 2dof system can do wonders.

Very nice!!! So you said old 2dof but I can see the seat sliding when braking and acelerating? So how did you do that? Incredible man, (fabuloso tio)

Chris Sellars · Feb 11, 2019

The printing is so temperature sensitive. I can see how a small housing of the printer would work. I printed my bearing mount overnight in a small room in the garage with the ambient temp around 20 deg it came out really good then my second during the day with the temp increasing to 30+ and it warped a lot more. Try using brim and lower the bed temp after a few layers. Just keep experimenting as the material is cheap.

RowanH · Feb 11, 2019

Mine warped a little, I didn't get too hung up on trying to make them perfect. Bolted it all together and my actuators are fine.. I'll see if I can dig up a photo to show how much warp they had. As always tighten bolts in a diagonal pattern to try to even out any offset/misalignment that might be there.

RowanH · Feb 11, 2019

.... and this is how much I got away with if you look carefully on the ends. These were just the parts held up next to each other. Printed overnight, default Prusa temps, not paying attention to anything special temp wise (would've been around 18c or so overnight).

HoiHman · Feb 11, 2019

Slight warping is not an issue Rowan, as long as the 4 points where the parts are screwed on the extrusion are flat.

I'm genuinely surprised how strong the 3d printed parts actually are. Due to a loose ground wire a the beginning of my build, the servo's hit the 3d printed parts multiple times, shutting the servos down due to the build in torque protection.

Also i have been "dropped down" quite a few times when having to cut of power to the servos.

No problems at all after (already) 4 month of usage.

Mascot · Feb 11, 2019

BluePotato00 said:
I used superglue. It bonds solidly.

Thanks, I didn't see your message (because watched thread notifications seem to be a complete lottery here on RD) so used double-sided carpet tape, which seems to be quite solid. If they work loose I'll try your superglue tip. Anyway, my electronics 'board' has all the components mounted to it now, it just needs wiring up.
Progress is still slow with my build for one reason or another. I've got everything I need except for the 10mm channel nuts and the e-stop, but a lot of my fixings are overlength by 5mm (thanks to an over-promising, under-delivering local supplier) and I haven't physically started assembling an actuator yet so I'm not sure whether this will be a problem.
My enclosure isn't going to be anything fancy, just a frosted plastic storage box with lid, as I've got two of those on shelves in the little unit next to my rig and they fit perfectly into cubbyholes. It's the right size to house the drivers and the electronics can sit on top of the lid. However, it's a right bugger to drill vent/cable holes in, and I've destroyed one of them already. It's quite a soft plastic, but strangely brittle. For no obvious reason at all it can just shatter as it's being drilled. I'm supporting it behind, using new drill bits and different speeds. Very frustrating.

Jean-Paul Lanaux · Feb 11, 2019

Mascot said:
What's best practise for fixing wagos to plywood? Double-sided tape?

3d printed Wago holders
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2075219

TitomakY · Feb 11, 2019

adekid said:
Very nice!!! So you said old 2dof but I can see the seat sliding when braking and acelerating? So how did you do that? Incredible man, (fabuloso tio)

here you have the solution friend

adekid · Feb 11, 2019

TitomakY said:
here you have the solution friend
View attachment 290808

WOW TITO thanks So what kind of sliders are the seat on top of ? I wanna do that! Gracias amigo

BrassEm · Feb 11, 2019

TitomakY said:
here you have the solution friend

Stunning work there TitomakY! Definitely the setup to aspire too. Looks like it's got everything happening. Nice solid frame connection for the Surge too. I was allocating another SFX100 for the surge but you got away with a different motor. Is it AC or DC? Are the linear guide rails you used 15mm or 20mm?

Mascot · Feb 11, 2019

TitomakY said:
here you have the solution friend
View attachment 290808

That looks absolutely ideal for fore/aft surge effects. Do you have plans and a parts spec that you can share?

TitomakY · Feb 11, 2019

BrassEm said:
Stunning work there TitomakY! Definitely the setup to aspire too. Looks like it's got everything happening. Nice solid frame connection for the Surge too. I was allocating another SFX100 for the surge but you got away with a different motor. Is it AC or DC? Are the linear guide rails you used 15mm or 20mm?

They are DC motors and work with Simtools and Arduino Uno R3. The rails are 15 mm although the 18 mm ones are preferable.