The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

mouse1 · Feb 12, 2019

I used DevilDesign PETG for all the parts. I have only very minor warping on the larger parts' edges, but I assume, it is caused by the bubbles under the PEI sheet. (The PETG was sticking so well, it slightly pulled up the PEI coating from the steel sheet. Nothing serious, it mostly goes away after a few printing, but I was printing 24/7.

)
I had only 1 bad printing: one of the fixed bearing mount's 3 corner released the PEI sheet nearly at the last third part of the printing. So it wasn't just a simple warping, but I can see collapsed layers on the last ~3rd part. I had to trash it.

I have a Prusa i3 MK3. I was fighting with the Live-Z calibration for ~1 week. On the 9 points, the printer does the calibration, the first layer was more-or-less OK, but the clearly it had a not-that-slight slope to the back-left corner. I tried to check the heated bed, but that seemed OK, so I assume, the steel sheet, or PEI sheet has a minor waviness, which totally screws up the first layer (on side was pushed down too hardly, the other side could be easily lifted from the PEI sheet).

So I tried to level the bed manually:
https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs

It was leveled to 0.02-0.03mm between min-max, the bed was on the printing temperature (I did that for PLA that time). Still had the first-layer issue.... Not surprising, because I leveled the bed to the 9 measurements points, which the printer is using for its calibration... So I didn't really help on the real problem...

So the only thing can help on my problem is a higher resolution calibration method (the generic FW is doing 9 (3x3) measurement before the printing, and interpolates calibration data to a 7x7 square). I was just starting to check the FW, to make the modification, but luckily, I found this thread:
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/1239

Fortunately, somebody already implemented the 7x7 calibration, the FW is there. It's working flawlessly, I have a perfect layer since then, and saved me a few hours/days of coding.

Theoretically, that change will come to the next FW as well:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/download/file.php?id=23211

Besides, my printer settings for the DevilDesign PET-G:
BED: first layer->85C, other layers: 82C
NOZZLE: first layer->220C, other: 230C

These worked well, with minor warping and very minor stringing (only if I printed multiple parts at once, like the bump stops).

But again: the key was the perfect, squished down first-layer.

BenKay · Feb 12, 2019

mouse1 said:
I used DevilDesign PETG for all the parts. I have only very minor warping on the larger parts' edges, but I assume, it is caused by the bubbles under the PEI sheet. (The PETG was sticking so well, it slightly pulled up the PEI coating from the steel sheet. Nothing serious, it mostly goes away after a few printing, but I was printing 24/7. )
I had only 1 bad printing: one of the fixed bearing mount's 3 corner released the PEI sheet nearly at the last third part of the printing. So it wasn't just a simple warping, but I can see collapsed layers on the last ~3rd part. I had to trash it.

I have a Prusa i3 MK3. I was fighting with the Live-Z calibration for ~1 week. On the 9 points, the printer does the calibration, the first layer was more-or-less OK, but the clearly it had a not-that-slight slope to the back-left corner. I tried to check the heated bed, but that seemed OK, so I assume, the steel sheet, or PEI sheet has a minor waviness, which totally screws up the first layer (on side was pushed down too hardly, the other side could be easily lifted from the PEI sheet).

So I tried to level the bed manually:
https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs

It was leveled to 0.02-0.03mm between min-max, the bed was on the printing temperature (I did that for PLA that time). Still had the first-layer issue.... Not surprising, because I leveled the bed to the 9 measurements points, which the printer is using for its calibration... So I didn't really help on the real problem...

So the only thing can help on my problem is a higher resolution calibration method (the generic FW is doing 9 (3x3) measurement before the printing, and interpolates calibration data to a 7x7 square). I was just starting to check the FW, to make the modification, but luckily, I found this thread:
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/1239

Fortunately, somebody already implemented the 7x7 calibration, the FW is there. It's working flawlessly, I have a perfect layer since then, and saved me a few hours/days of coding.
Theoretically, that change will come to the next FW as well:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/download/file.php?id=23211

Besides, my printer settings for the DevilDesign PET-G:
BED: first layer->85C, other layers: 82C
NOZZLE: first layer->220C, other: 230C

These worked well, with minor warping and very minor stringing (only if I printed multiple parts at once, like the bump stops).

But again: the key was the perfect, squished down first-layer.

Yes the firmware with 7x7 bed levelling is brilliant, it's really helped my first layer on large surface area prints.

Prusa have said they will integrate it into the main firmware same point....can only be a good thing for everyoine

TimothyDDX · Feb 12, 2019

frankrizzo2 said:
I did some looking at a few different places on the web for a proper lubricant for ball screws and lithium grease was fine for a lubricant from information that I found. I wanted to make sure I chose a proper grease that was available in my area and I didn't read any negatives against it but if you would care to share your findings I would appreciate it. I want to do whatever makes them last the longest but they are not supposed to go untreated as they are only sent with a rust inhibitor from the factory.

Edit: here is a link to one of the articles that I read. I'm not saying that I'm right, it's just a that I haven't found any evidence against using it.
https://www.mromagazine.com/features/understanding-ball-screw-lubrication/

So that article is about the different grades of grease (which is contentious as the grades are misleading) , but fails to talk about the different types and purposes of grease. The article even states: "NLGI Grade alone is not sufficient for specifying grease for a particular application but is a useful qualitative measure."

White Lithium Grease is actually Lithium Soap (the white stuff) with some oils mixed in to make it more less viscous (flow better). What happens is that as it ages or increases temp the oils in the lithium soap separate which just leaves the lithium soap, which is very thick and gloppy and no longer adheres well. For low temp low speed applications (eg. household use like slow moving garage door tracks) it works great. For other uses that are higher speed not so good. Lucas even mentions not to use it on bearings on their product information page for the product (link below) "Not recommended for use in wheel bearings."

I don't know enough to say that it will or won't hurt the rig. I do expect that with the amount of torque and relative light use we are using it for, it probably is not horrible or going to kill your actuator. The only thing I was trying to convey is that regular red grease or a synthetic bearing grease would work much better. In a year when you take your actuators apart there will probably be clumps of white in it that are the lithium soap and they will no longer be providing lubrication to the ball screw.

https://lucasoil.com/products/grease/white-lithium-grease

Dennis Karlsson · Feb 12, 2019

I have now recieved all parts, except the servo motors. There is this Chinese Lunar New Year Holiday going on, so they haven't even shipped them yet.

No hurry though, I'm still printing the plastic parts.

Mascot · Feb 12, 2019

My e-stop has arrived, so I *think* that's everything except for my 10mm channel nuts, which were last seen being used as barter for a donkey saddle in North Korea.
Anyway, I can't fit what I haven't yet built, and I can't build until my neck decides to unseize itself. No matter how much beer I drink it doesn't seem to be getting any better, so maybe I need to add whisky chasers. I'll check with the doc.

acekrusty23 · Feb 12, 2019

C64 said:
A alternative route to getting your parts printed...

1. Approach existing builders in your area and see if one of them is willing to print the parts for you

2. You pay for Filament ( whatever they specify ) or buy filament and ship it to them... I suggest 4 x 1kg rolls

3. You pay for collection and shipping the parts back

4. You make an additional significant donation to the SFX100 team... at least $100 USD

The purpose of step 4 is to incentivise the person doing the printing... they know that their efforts are going back to the SFX100 project.

I have specified 4 x 1kg rolls... we only need 3 rolls... the extra roll is to cover energy used and any mis-prints.

If you are like me... printing stuff is very satisfying, and even more so when you know it will be used

There should be no compulsion... just doing each other favours. It is not a burden printing this stuff once you know what you are doing.

Yeah I hear ya. Thanks, I’m in Melbourne if anyone is inclined to do the printing of course they will be paid whatever is appropriate for their time and effort. Thanks.

BluePotato00 · Feb 12, 2019

acekrusty23 said:
Yeah I hear ya. Thanks, I’m in Melbourne if anyone is inclined to do the printing of course they will be paid whatever is appropriate for their time and effort. Thanks.

Check your local universities. I got all my 3D printed parts for $165 USD. They offer the same service to the local public for the same prices.

jimbraj · Feb 12, 2019

did a few more assembly videos

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWlY1kvTcpFCFzXletBhuMsKd73pdMa1n

and

acekrusty23 · Feb 12, 2019

BluePotato00 said:
Check your local universities. I got all my 3D printed parts for $165 USD. They offer the same service to the local public for the same prices.

Good idea, I’ll look into that. Thanks.

Specialist68 · Feb 12, 2019

Ok Elektronics:
Problem DB-25 connector pin 6
motor 1 leonardo A0.
motor 2 leonardo A1.
motor 3 leonardo A2
motor 4 leonardo A3

https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki/Electronics
But when you see the pictures they connect al DB-25 connectors pin 6 to 1 wire
and then connect the emergency stop to only pin A0 on the Leonardo
This can't be right I'am a electrician myself but this I can't understand
Are the pictures wrong? and so yes where must I connect the emergency with to?
I think pin 6 of every DB-25 must connect to another pin on the Leonardo A0 A1 A2 A3
Before I power al up please help

metalnwood · Feb 13, 2019

@Specialist68 All the ENA signals are either on or off (A0-A3) so many people are just taking the signal from one pin and distributing that to all pin 6's on the DB25 connectors.

You can do it either way and it will be fine.

acekrusty23 · Feb 13, 2019

Question, should the prints be all at 100% infill?

DotComRich · Feb 13, 2019

What are people with a Rift doing for motion cancellation if any? I read on another forum it was no longer possible with the Rift, is this true? I am having to hit my recenter hmd button a few times per lap at points in races which is very annoying.

RowanH · Feb 13, 2019

acekrusty23 said:
Question, should the prints be all at 100% infill?

Refer here for slicer settings : https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki/3D-Printing

acekrusty23 · Feb 13, 2019

acekrusty23 said:
Question, should the prints be all at 100% infill?

RowanH said:
Refer here for slicer settings : https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki/3D-Printing

Thanks Rowan. You have been a great help to me.

anton_Chez · Feb 13, 2019

@DotComRich I've removed my Rift sensor from the moving chassis and placed it back static on my desk as I had it before I build the actuators. Is your sensor mounted to your rig? I got fed up with the camera resetting the viewpoint on its own and since I've moved it off the rig I've not had to recenter the view AT ALL.

I'm still debating whether pitch causes a problem with vision when the sensor is static vs rig mounted, but from what I've seen, it's not very noticeable at all. I have to do a side by side comparison to be sure, but in no way is something like Bathurst undriveable with the sensor positioned static. You'd expect your vision to be slightly obscured in a real car around the top of the mountain anyway, so it doesn't feel unrealistic or problematic to me.

Mascot · Feb 13, 2019

VR image stability has now replaced falling through the floor as my number one concern, lol.

jimbraj · Feb 13, 2019

My Leo Box

@Nick Moxley needs to upload the newer version to thingiverse

anton_Chez · Feb 13, 2019

@Mascot If all else fails, put the sensor where it was when you were only running the V3. Seems to have fixed it for me. I'm now getting the FFB dropping out for a second here and there again, which I thought I cured by changing USB ports for the OSW. However, now that I've put the sensor back where it was before, in a different USB port, it might have something to do with it.

I have to solve that. It breaks any sort of driving experience. I since switched the OSW port AGAIN but am yet to test it properly. I thought I had fixed it, but since the sensor position change it's reared it's ugly head again.

sjb266 · Feb 13, 2019

Meh .. VR.. that's so 2018.. I'm back on the old mega ultra super wide Samsung screen... Loooooooving it!

PS: This message was written under the influence of Beam Devil's Cut ... my opinions are subject to change without notice!