Sim lab P1 vs GT 1

[Zoof2]

I am close to purchasing my first 8020 rig and really like the look of the Sim lab P1 and GT 1 sim rigs . Apart from obviously the price difference what are the advantages or disadvantages of either from anyone with experience of these rigs ?? Struggling to decide..

 

[RobertR1]

I'm going with aluminum because I don't have the finesse to keep the black scratch free when assembling and moving around. Scratches and such will show up more on the black anyhow. Then add 3 kids to the mix and it's GG for the black option regardless of how nice it looks.

 

[Mascot]

I'm going with aluminum because I don't have the finesse to keep the black scratch free when assembling and moving around. Scratches and such will show up more on the black anyhow. Then add 3 kids to the mix and it's GG for the black option regardless of how nice it looks.

It's a LOT cheaper too.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Anybody is using black profile at all?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

What is the advantage of going non conventional front mount vs traditional wheel deck, even with OSW? Can't see any except compatibility issue with other wheels.

 

[sjb266]

Anybody is using black profile at all?

No.. I though pretty hard about it but I had a drum rack that was black and it just ended up looking like shyte.. scratched.. covered in dust etc.. I think ultimately the clear is the better choice.. YMMV!

 

[sjb266]

What is the advantage of going non conventional front mount vs traditional wheel deck, even with OSW? Can't see any except compatibility issue with other wheels.

None really. I see them more as a disadvantage. I have a few things mounted from my wheel deck.. like my sequential shifter.. I thought about changing to a mount like the sim lab but yeah it’s not as versatile.. and kind of looks a bit weird for me..

 

[Mascot]

What is the advantage of going non conventional front mount vs traditional wheel deck, even with OSW? Can't see any except compatibility issue with other wheels.

You get better knee clearance with the front mount vs the wheel deck, so you have the option to mount your wheel a little lower if you like.
I went for the front mount because I was planning on going the OSW route but my old CSR Elite wheel and my new CSWv2.5 also face fix to the front mount (although Fanatec don't officially support this method).
You can still mount button boxes etc to the face of the front mount.
If you have a DD wheel with standard bolt pattern (or even CSW) then I'd say the front mount offers the neatest solution with better knee clearance.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

It is also a bit more rigid, although the wheeldeck doesn’t move at all from the FFB of the wheel, you can flex it if you pull down on the wheel or push up simply becacuse it’s acting like a lever. With the front mount not only are the mounting points closer making a shorter lever but the rotational force is acting on a completely different plain of the deck that’s significantly hard to induce flex. Plus I believe it’s now 5mm thicker to boot.

Unless you are mounting the wheeldeck flat and using angle brackets it’s also not that useful for mounting things to and my HE Sequential shifter for example would be to far behind the wheel there anyway IMO.

 

[White Hawk]

Well, after UPS managed to lose half my P1 a few weeks ago I’ve finally got the rest of my parts today, it’s been half a day with no sleep and still not done yet. I’m having a heck of a time with attaching the seat slider to the seat brackets, being able to only attach them off the rig and only being able to attach one bolt and nut at one of the ends and then trying to activate the loose pull bar to slide it to the other end to be able to do the other bolt and nut as it’s covered is annoying. I would have been done by now if I didn’t have the slider, but it’s important I have it so grin and bare it or just stare at it, one or the other, just wish it was less fiddly.

 

[anton_Chez]

Ah the joys of using UPS. I will NEVER willingly use their service again. My stuff sat in customs until I had the idea to check if they knew when it was coming. 2 days it sat there, waiting for ME to call and pay the import duties. As soon as I rang them, I saw that the tracking info was updated to reflect the stage that it was at. Meaning, I had to initiate them to update the thread. Idiots.

My build took a couple of days too. A number of reasons caused this, as mentioned in my thread, but it can be frustrating. By the end of it, I had fun but was so glad that it was over. I spent a long time after as well, tweaking certain things, cable management, buttkicker placement etc. But once the main part is done, it's not so bad.

I was happy to not have to use the slider. They can be a bastard to put on. Especially when your (my) seat mount does not have standard bolt pattern for the seat. But now that it's done, I have to say I am super happy with the result. I mean, I probably can't get much higher end gear (in terms of the strength that it can output) and the rig is solid as a rock. A slight creak here and there when you have the motion going, pulling the handbrake and all those actions that require some force. But I have slight OCD (!) and notice everything. Slight re-tightening should fix that anyway.

 

[Jasje]

I went with the P1 over the GT1 as I wanted the added depth to mount the NLV3 motion platform within the chassis and keep the seat/CoG as low as possible, but as others have said there's not much practical difference between the GT1 and P1, as 8020 lets you easily customise it how you see fit. I prefer the aesthetics of the deeper chassis on the P1 but the additional strength is probably OTT but it just looks more solid and I prefer the proportions. If (when - lol) I upgrade to a Dbox system then the additional chassis depth and anti-twist corner rigidity might be a benefit, but I figured if I was spending all this money on the last cockpit I'll ever buy then covering my ass for an additional €100 was probably money well spent.

By the way, you absolutely do NOT need the vertical brace on the shifter mount. I didn't bother fitting the brace so mine is only cantilevered and has my CSS and handbrake mounted. It ain't going nowhere. Solid as a rock, even with my full weight resting on it.

You'll be happy with either the GT1 or P1, trust me. Both will survive nukes from space.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but how did you mount your TV/monitor?

 

[TPS]

Hallo

Do I understand correctly, that GT1 rig from Sim-Lab is sturdy enough to support Next Level racing V3 and DD wheel for a man of 181 cm height? I would like to keep my rig as small as it is possible.

 

[anton_Chez]

I am 166cm and have exactly as you describe. It's more than enough.

 

[TPS]

I am 166cm and have exactly as you describe. It's more than enough.

Thank you! I was considering P1, but I came to a conclusion, that it would be a overkill for me

 

[anton_Chez]

I thought the same although the slightly higher cost, increase is shipping cost and the fact that I probably didn't need the flagship product were only part of the reason I chose the GT1. I chose the GT1 in the end because I really liked the pedal deck design and the P1 pedal deck is different. I probably could have swapped it over if I asked them but I wasn't sure if it was just a straight swap or if other things needed to be adjusted. So in the end that made my decision and I have never felt the need to have the P1 since I completed my build.

 

[alexSchmurtz]

Sim-Lab probably realized that the 2 products were pretty close: it seems the GT1 has been discontinued and is not available anymore.... You now have the P1, the TR1, the GT2 and GT1 evo, each with a distinct price (and features).

 

[anton_Chez]

Hmm interesting. They were very similar although I do hope people get the option of purchasing with the pedal deck that I have.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Isn't GT1 Evo just a new GT1?
What is the difference besides new wheel deck?

 

[GEO147]

I was all over the GT1 and was awaiting stock. They only restocked 5 which sold in a week, so I got the P1. They are as good as each other 8d say. The P1 is mental sturdy tho.

 

[alexSchmurtz]

What is the difference besides new wheel deck?

A lot more: pedals deck is completely different too, made of a steel sheet instead of profiles. Profiles seems thinner too: on the GT1 and P1 you can see 3 grooves on the side profiles supporting the wheel deck, only 2 grooves on the evo; bottom main profiles seems thinner too. As a result the price is much thinner too! Evo is almost half the price of the P1...