Rig Report - Peter Winkler

[Peter Winkler]

DIY - water transfer printing

a big portion of my my rig report is DIY and i like to share some insights on sepcial techniques. This time i like to share some pictures on water transfer printing.

lets start with the result - i think on of my biggest achievements during this long DIY journey - the front part of my beloved BMW M8 GTE project.

first of all we start with a thin layer primer. afterwards i applied some layers of filler. This step is key to get clean and shiny surfaces.

during the next step i sand the filer to get the final shape of my surface. During this step its important to understand that you sand the filler and not the 3d printed part. this makes you work easier and the result better. In the past i tried to get rid of 3d print surface by sanding the plastic which took ages and the result was never as good as sanding the filler.

maybe you have to repeat by adding further filler and do again some sanding. when you have a perfect surface you can jump to the next step - painting.

after the paintshop is done you can do the water print. you can find some good internet video on how-to. for me the key elemets are
- perfect surface (good filler and good sand paper - i conculted a local expert to get the right material)
- stable water temp, correct activator, stable water surface - take your time, no hectic
- correct final coat - if the clear paint does not work together with your water foil you can destroy the whole piece in the last step.

coming to the last step - final coat

next chapter - videos

 

[Peter Winkler]

DIY - encoder caps

in my next chapter i like to share some word on homemade encoder caps. all my steering wheels receive during the final release ALU machined encoder caps. Unfortunely they are quite expensive hence i try to run the steering wheel with 3d printed caps for a while. During this time i try to make them as nice as possible. I will start again with the final result.

Those caps are designed at home and printed with my ender 5 - PLA - no special settings, just a slow and accurate print. The cap is prepared to drill the final encoder diameter as the print accurancy at this part is not good enough - eg if you have a 3mm encoder shaft i designed a 2mm hole and drilled the final part. The same logic for the threat holding the mount screw.

Like presented during my water transfer print chapter i add one thin layer of primer and several thick layers of filler. in normal cases there is no need to sand the encoder cap. adding a final paint coat makes a perfect homemade DIY encoder cap.

PLA is strong enough to hold the small 2mm threat. Take care during tightening.

Overall this process delivers you great encoder caps a low budget. The accurancy is not like the final ALU brother but comparing the costs between the both i have to say an outstanding alternative.

 

[HoiHman]

Big complements on the BMW wheel Peter. When you see the pictures up close it really looks like a genuine retail product.

-Are the hand grips also 3D printed ? And if so, how do you create that structure on them?
-What's your solution for the stickers / labels. Do you have your own plotter to cut them ?


Attach files

 

[Peter Winkler]

Big complements on the BMW wheel Peter. When you see the pictures up close it really looks like a genuine retail product.

-Are the hand grips also 3D printed ? And if so, how do you create that structure on them?
-What's your solution for the stickers / labels. Do you have your own plotter to cut them ?


Attach files

Hi,
many thanks for your feedback
a special MJF order - i found a company in austria able to make it
i am in discussion with them to open their shop to DIY simracing guys
sticker is use liongp - you can find him at insta
test stickers i print at home and cut myself
Peter

 

[Tom_Hampton]

after the paintshop is done you can do the water print. you can find some good internet video on how-to. for me the key elemets are
- perfect surface (good filler and good sand paper - i conculted a local expert to get the right material)

Looks great, Peter. Nice work.

Two questions:
1. What filler did you you?
2. What was the reason for the primer before filling? Adhesion or just a pre-filling step (as high density primer will fill some surface imperfections, alone)?

 

[Peter Winkler]

filler i use from duplicolor
other option i can share later

primer is foradhesion

 

[cem korkmaz]

10 - DIY McLaren 720s GT3

link to version 2 of this project

let me share my recent DIY project - again i tried to use top class hardware and together with my recent cockpit changes - laptimer and dual DDU10 - i am really happy about my 720s cockpit layout

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back to index

Awesome wheel and top qualty , may i asked the button name on mclaren and your cosworth steerıng wheel ?

 

[Peter Winkler]

no specific one - std pcb solder tactile button with button cap - i order what is available
BMW uses SMD - i have no space behind the PCB - so a bit more difficult

 

[Peter Winkler]

BMW M8 teaster

let me continue the M8 teaser - next steps

- new button PCB incl LED, so far i had only the main PCB with LED
- back incl Carbon water transfer print

 

[paladin21]

Hi Peter, as every single person that viewed your report I also strongly believe you are an insiration to the rest of us! such quality work and results its amazing!!

I wanted to get into tactile and being ignorant of the subject (although I did read some of the details in the 200 page post) I decided to follow your steps.

I have my 4 exciters (aura ast-2b-4) arriving tomorrow, got my sound blaster Z, my EPQ304 (yeay i found one!) and my t.racks dsp 4x4 mini. A couple of questions in connections please.

1. from the sound card there are 2 x 3.5mm cables to 6.3mm connected into the 4 input slots of the t.racks. Where have you connected the 3.5mm jacks on the sound card?

2.output from t.racks to EPQ304 is through 4 x 6.3mm to XLR male thats ok (at least i get that)

3. from the EPQ304 to each exciter is it a 6.3 jack to red/white banana plugs?

4. should all cables be OFC / balanced?

thats it for the installation in the next couple of days...

I have an additional question moving . Can the T.racks 4x4 support a Behringer NX4-6000 or its better to get 2 x NX3000D to support the BKs and TSTs?

thank you !!!!​

 

[Peter Winkler]

Hi Peter, as every single person that viewed your report I also strongly believe you are an insiration to the rest of us! such quality work and results its amazing!!

I wanted to get into tactile and being ignorant of the subject (although I did read some of the details in the 200 page post) I decided to follow your steps.

I have my 4 exciters (aura ast-2b-4) arriving tomorrow, got my sound blaster Z, my EPQ304 (yeay i found one!) and my t.racks dsp 4x4 mini. A couple of questions in connections please.

1. from the sound card there are 2 x 3.5mm cables to 6.3mm connected into the 4 input slots of the t.racks. Where have you connected the 3.5mm jacks on the sound card?

2.output from t.racks to EPQ304 is through 4 x 6.3mm to XLR male thats ok (at least i get that)

3. from the EPQ304 to each exciter is it a 6.3 jack to red/white banana plugs?

4. should all cables be OFC / balanced?

thats it for the installation in the next couple of days...

I have an additional question moving . Can the T.racks 4x4 support a Behringer NX4-6000 or its better to get 2 x NX3000D to support the BKs and TSTs?

thank you !!!!​

hi
1) one of the output jacks - my card is flexible and i configrue the output via SW
stereo and rear
3) from exciter has not banana plugg - please check my pictures
4) did not do this
i run 2 x nx3000d - other i cannot judge - sorry
Peter

 

[metalnwood]

Hi Peter, I am curious how you felt about the change to motion, if any, when you put the spring isolators on your seat?

I put them on a day ago and immediately noticed the change in feel from motion. Obvioulsy the change in feel brought on by the springs dampening heave movements, moreso quick ones than slower ones. I think I can also feel the seat leaning sideways a bit but unsure if that is in my mind. It certainly does move sideways a bit but do I really feel it or think I do because I know it is

I dont have the big tactile installed on the seat yet but it has left me wondering if the 'package' of tactile/motion and springs will be better than tactile/motion without springs. I.e. have you thought that tactile with springs brought more to the game than the loss of some motion feeling lost by the springs.

I was driving wondering if its worse or just different and I am not sure.

Edit, I have used it a bit more and while it may feel different, I am coming to the comclusion that it is not different in a bad way, just not the same and I can possibly change smoothing etc to get back more of the original feeling if I want it.

Also as far as the seat moving side to side - I think I coincidentally had a change in my VR's tracking and it is picking up more sway from the rig, not necessarily because of the springs or the seat moving. so thats encouraging.

 

[Peter Winkler]

Hi Peter, I am curious how you felt about the change to motion, if any, when you put the spring isolators on your seat?

I put them on a day ago and immediately noticed the change in feel from motion. Obvioulsy the change in feel brought on by the springs dampening heave movements, moreso quick ones than slower ones. I think I can also feel the seat leaning sideways a bit but unsure if that is in my mind. It certainly does move sideways a bit but do I really feel it or think I do because I know it is

I dont have the big tactile installed on the seat yet but it has left me wondering if the 'package' of tactile/motion and springs will be better than tactile/motion without springs. I.e. have you thought that tactile with springs brought more to the game than the loss of some motion feeling lost by the springs.

I was driving wondering if its worse or just different and I am not sure.

Edit, I have used it a bit more and while it may feel different, I am coming to the comclusion that it is not different in a bad way, just not the same and I can possibly change smoothing etc to get back more of the original feeling if I want it.

Also as far as the seat moving side to side - I think I coincidentally had a change in my VR's tracking and it is picking up more sway from the rig, not necessarily because of the springs or the seat moving. so thats encouraging.

Hi,
i do not feel any change to my motion experience. Only impact i feel is during braking - at full brake power with my simtags. This flex of the springs is OK after some laps.
not sure if i share this video

Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life

www.dropbox.com

2 things i like to say
- maybe i use less motion than you?
- in the video you can spot that the seat doing the same movement like the rig
maybe i added more NM to my spring?
did you increase the seat height? maybe your feel this change?
i try to make another video showing the side movement - hard pull and push to the seat
my basic understanding - as soon motion starts - its not the seat moving a lot - its my body - and my body has a certain movement within my seat - i hope you understand what i mean - meaning the seat is much better connected to my rig - vs my body to the seat.
Peter

 

[metalnwood]

Yes I had to do a lot of work to make sure the seat didnt go up too much but it did go up a bit.

I have come to the conclusion that it is a change in my VR that is to blame. I did something at about the same time that would change how motion was coming through in VR and assumed it was the seat because I was looking for it.

Thanks for your reply

 

[Peter Winkler]

cool - again a solved problem

 

[Peter Winkler]

tried to fix a long lasting action item

move screens 5cm lower, to use ingame dashbaords, and to get a better LMP and Formel experience (when i moved my DDU away the immersion was not perfect)

sounds like an easy project - ended into a massive reconfiguration

1) screens - 3cm down - only this is a crazy exercise
2) without changing the wheelbase position i would destroy my screens (motion movement)
3) so sc2 4cm towards driver and 2cm higher
4) leading to - repositioning of my buttonboxes and last but not least
5) reducing all steering wheel extension

a lot of work - but amazing result - so it was worth the time and effort

 

[DrRob]

Good stuff there @Peter Winkler. I just lowered my screen 3 cm down as well to take advantage of a potentially higher immersion factor. Like you, I had planned this for some time, but did not due it due to the hassle involved.

Originally I didn't want the wheel to block any section of the screen in case I want to do other things than sim racing on that machine. SO I placed the monitor accordingly. But, this use case did not happen so far... and if, I could always remove the wheel via QR, right?
The exercise really paid off! Much better transition from real world to the virtual world.

Mind you, lowering my 49" Samsung G9 was surely easier than what you did.
Having said that, I cannot recommend to move the massive 32:9 monitor without a second pair of hands helping....

 

[Peter Winkler]

But, this use case did not happen so far... and if, I could always remove the wheel via QR, right?

not sure, did not get your question - SRY my bad enlgish

 

[Martijn Wieling]

Good stuff there @Peter Winkler. I just lowered my screen 3 cm down as well to take advantage of a potentially higher immersion factor. Like you, I had planned this for some time, but did not due it due to the hassle involved.

Originally I didn't want the wheel to block any section of the screen in case I want to do other things than sim racing on that machine. SO I placed the monitor accordingly. But, this use case did not happen so far... and if, I could always remove the wheel via QR, right?
The exercise really paid off! Much better transition from real world to the virtual world.

Mind you, lowering my 49" Samsung G9 was surely easier than what you did.
Having said that, I cannot recommend to move the massive 32:9 monitor without a second pair of hands helping....

Just a suggestion for those using a single 49 inch screen. There are flexible arms which allow moving the screen arbitrarily up and down. That might be useful in terms of flexibility. For example, https://www.neomounts.nl/monitor/mo...mounts-by-newstar-select-monitor-bureausteun/

 

[DrRob]

not sure, did not get your question - SRY my bad enlgish

Sorry for the confusion Peter, that was not really a question directed to you, just your typical - sorry, German "..,gell?" or "..,ne?"