Hi Gentlemen,
I think there another key point which can affect the way we feel braking and accelerating (not only with this fantactic mod) : Trigger range for those who are using an xbox One controller. I explain myself :
If you look at the telemetry display, you will notice that breaking and accelerating are full max at 80% of the trigger range, which make "dosage" too sensible. And, bu the way, it's the same for every racing game with X1 controller.
I've tried to plug an xbox 360 controller and it improves A LOT the sensibility, brakes and gaz are so more easier to control (full range is use for the trigger).
I'm disgusted to have a xOne Elite controller and not use it anymore for riding because of that.
If someone would have a tip to configure/ crack / reset xOne controller, whatever, I would be interested !
I have more controllers at my disposal than I can sensibly list as in the past I have been helped out by SharQ and also one other smaller specialist small scale controller "mod" company. I also do a bit of testing for Brook LLC in Taiwan.
I have a Microsoft xbox Elite controller, as well as modified xbox one controllers, a Razer "Wildcat" xbox one controller, a modified Thrustmaster GPX "Lightback" racing controller and various SharQ and official Scuf xbox 360 controllers and a SharQ DS4.
So I have tested and played with pretty much all aspects of all of these controllers.
What you are saying about the xbox one Elite controller is correct. It has a dead-spot from about 3/4ths trigger movement until its mechanical stop. With the Microsoft controller software you can slide and adjust a deadspot setting if you wish from the beginning of each trigger's movement and separately you can increase the "deadspot" at the other end of the trigger's movement. But as regards the deadspot at 3/4 qtrs opening you can only make this larger and not reduce it. So in other words, yes, the trigger inputs on the xbox one controller, Elite included, are not linear and progressive from mechanical "stop" to mechanical "stop". You are stuck with the minimum "deadspot" setting of about 25% at the end of the trigger's range of movement. To my knowledge there is no way round this even if you employ the use, as I have, of a Cronus Max device to try to change the trigger input signal(s). Same on pc. Same on xbox one. Same on PS4 through a controller adapter. xbox one controllers are just made that way..
This was a source of much consternation and discussion over on the gpbikes forum when people upgraded from their xbox 360 controllers to the then new xbox one controller. Same consternation was voiced by those who purchased an Elite thinking it would solve the problem.. In fact one of the fastest guys on gpbikes who purchased an xbox one controller found he was crashing a lot more on the brakes and throttle because of this anomaly with the trigger inputs..
I can race competitively tbh using an xbox one or xbox one Elite controller on Milestone's racing games (RIDE 2 and motogp) because the games are not as "delicate" in terms of trigger inputs as say gpbikes..
My advice, if this bothers you, which I think understandably it does, is maybe to switch back to an xbox 360 controller to race on or perhaps switch to a GPX? If you go for the standard black GPX controller (not a "lightback" but otherwise identical) you used to be able to get these off Amazon for about £23. I'm not sure now..but if you can find one they should be quite cheap to buy as they are generally redundant now for console use.. Nice controller from my experience.
But no. You are not wrong in what you are saying at all. You are spot on.
"Midge"
gpx lightback mk1 by
Tracey Roberts, on Flickr
Great stuff mate!! Will try to record maybe today, and share a video here (raw file of my riding) but we'll see!!
