Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[RasmusP]

Your "normal center" LUT definitely brings back more detail.

But it also makes the Abarth shake even more. At Magione it doesn't shake at all, but the longer the track the more it shakes. With this LUT this happens with other cars also, the amount of shaking grows with the length of the track. The recommended LUT fixes the shaking almost completely with other cars I've tested, but in Abarth's case even it can't help.
Using the normal center LUT I tested Abarth some more, and at Nordschleife the wheel shakes a little even when car is not moving - and this hasn't happened with any other car so far.
When driving straight at slow speed, only dropping the car specific ffb gain to 20% mostly eliminated the shaking.

Car specific gain was at 100% on all tracks, and I'm not using FFBClip.
Logitech GHUB has sensitivity at 50% and the wheel at 900 degrees.
Filter is at 0%.
I checked and triple-checked all of these most obvious things before my original message

EDIT: I've read that the shaking is worse the further you are from the midpoint of a map, so this of course explains why it's worse on longer tracks. Still annoying though.

Aaaah thanks for the detailed reply! I think your g29 has a little bit less of a deadzone than my g27.
Most g29 are fine with my g27 settings but it seems like your wheel behaves like my did when I raised the gain in the Logitech software (sadly not available with g29 anymore).

I will create a new "recommended LUT" for you in the next days. Scale everything a bit down.

I'll quote you and attach the ini + LUT to my post then.

The shaking about map size and mid points:
That's not a thing with tracks like magione!
This "bug" is important when you drive tracks like LA canyons for example with 50km length or something massive like that.
The original Kunos tracks are totally fine and you shouldn't get shaking!

 

[Mikke73]

Aaaah thanks for the detailed reply! I think your g29 has a little bit less of a deadzone than my g27.
Most g29 are fine with my g27 settings but it seems like your wheel behaves like my did when I raised the gain in the Logitech software (sadly not available with g29 anymore).

I will create a new "recommended LUT" for you in the next days. Scale everything a bit down.

I'll quote you and attach the ini + LUT to my post then.

The shaking about map size and mid points:
That's not a thing with tracks like magione!
This "bug" is important when you drive tracks like LA canyons for example with 50km length or something massive like that.
The original Kunos tracks are totally fine and you shouldn't get shaking!

Great, thank you!

I'm definitely getting the shaking on longer Kunos tracks too, and even LA Canyon is no worse than Nords in that respect.

I've also run "Minimum force" tests with Wheeltest, the results are all over the place but in average it tells me my maximum value for steeringFFBBaseOffset is around 13.5-15.0% (1350-1500).
But I doubt how much that tells, when the step log tests don't usually show any deltaX changes until after 1600.

I also managed to find settings that almost completely eliminate the shake, rattle & roll at Nords even for Abarth, and it was simpler than I thought it would be. I simply disabled all the FFB post-processing, set gain to 100% and kerb/road/slip/ABS effects to 10%. Filter, minimum force and center boost settings are at 0%.
With those settings I don't get the shaking, I finally feel all the wonderful details, but the steering is not smooth and just feels a bit off (without any comparison to the real Abarth, of course).

Maybe I'd just need a better wheel, but there are very few wheels with enough buttons for ETS2 and ATS...

 

[RasmusP]

Great, thank you!

I'm definitely getting the shaking on longer Kunos tracks too, and even LA Canyon is no worse than Nords in that respect.

I've also run "Minimum force" tests with Wheeltest, the results are all over the place but in average it tells me my maximum value for steeringFFBBaseOffset is around 13.5-15.0% (1350-1500).
But I doubt how much that tells, when the step log tests don't usually show any deltaX changes until after 1600.

I also managed to find settings that almost completely eliminate the shake, rattle & roll at Nords even for Abarth, and it was simpler than I thought it would be. I simply disabled all the FFB post-processing, set gain to 100% and kerb/road/slip/ABS effects to 10%. Filter, minimum force and center boost settings are at 0%.
With those settings I don't get the shaking, I finally feel all the wonderful details, but the steering is not smooth and just feels a bit off (without any comparison to the real Abarth, of course).

Maybe I'd just need a better wheel, but there are very few wheels with enough buttons for ETS2 and ATS...

If you want to experiment with it before I'm able to spend the time on my desktop pc:
Open the LUT with a text editor and lower the first 8 values by 10% (calculate what's 90% of them).
The first value by 30%
The second value by 20%

Report back how that works

Additionally btw:
Wheelcheck showed consistent 15-16.5% at 100% gain for my g27

 

[Mikke73]

If you want to experiment with it before I'm able to spend the time on my desktop pc:
Open the LUT with a text editor and lower the first 8 values by 10% (calculate what's 90% of them).
The first value by 30%
The second value by 20%

Report back how that works

Additionally btw:
Wheelcheck showed consistent 15-16.5% at 100% gain for my g27

I experimented mostly based on your suggestion, and what a difference!

I still get the shaking at Nords, but it's at a tolerable level now - even with car specific ffb at 100%.
And what I didn't expect at all, I can now feel pretty much all the detail I could wish for. I think that I've had too much detail previously, because even though I didn't feel the bumps of Magione like I'm used to, Nords was just wonderful and definitely not lacking anything.

I didn't exactly follow the instructions, because at some point I changed the first row to 0.00|0.00, and forgot I'd done that. So I changed the next 8 values, but it surely helped a lot

 

[RasmusP]

I experimented mostly based on your suggestion, and what a difference!

I still get the shaking at Nords, but it's at a tolerable level now - even with car specific ffb at 100%.
And what I didn't expect at all, I can now feel pretty much all the detail I could wish for. I think that I've had too much detail previously, because even though I didn't feel the bumps of Magione like I'm used to, Nords was just wonderful and definitely not lacking anything.

I didn't exactly follow the instructions, because at some point I changed the first row to 0.00|0.00, and forgot I'd done that. So I changed the next 8 values, but it surely helped a lot

First value to 0|0 will kill the "ffb white noise". At default it isn't there as it's not a real signal.. It's just random shaking/vibrating. It's also not influenced by the gain settings.

So I dialed that in to get rid of the very slight notch that was still there with my LUTs.
Just fills the very little gap with some resistance.

But if you put it too high, the wheel will start to rattle and shake when standing still, even with only 1% ffb gain!
Took some days to get that value right for my wheel... So probably was too high for yours!

Glad that it works better now! My guess is that the "fine details" you felt without the LUT were boosted to become "shaking" so it felt like you lost details, while they just needed to be softer to become "detailed" again.

Anyway, I would recommend to put 50% of my original value into the first line again. Feels better in my experience

 

[Mikke73]

First value to 0|0 will kill the "ffb white noise". At default it isn't there as it's not a real signal.. It's just random shaking/vibrating. It's also not influenced by the gain settings.

So I dialed that in to get rid of the very slight notch that was still there with my LUTs.
Just fills the very little gap with some resistance.

But if you put it too high, the wheel will start to rattle and shake when standing still, even with only 1% ffb gain!
Took some days to get that value right for my wheel... So probably was too high for yours!

Glad that it works better now! My guess is that the "fine details" you felt without the LUT were boosted to become "shaking" so it felt like you lost details, while they just needed to be softer to become "detailed" again.

Anyway, I would recommend to put 50% of my original value into the first line again. Feels better in my experience

Yeah, the change to 0|0 didn't really seem to make any difference, so I was lazy and just left it there...

Could be that the details were boosted too much, before the changes I didn't really feel any forces when driving through Foxhole on Nords. Now it feels fantastic.
I'll go test some more, thank you so much!

You're really doing a top notch job with this

 

[MB190E]

Hi,

sadly acc got the LUT update after I upgraded to a fanatec csw 2.5 so I can't test it myself anymore and therefore decided not to create a guide I can't confirm working well.

But there's this from someone who approached me for some advice and asking if he can link my guide etc :

Steam Community :: Guide :: Logitech G29/G27/DGFT Force Feedback LUT Settings

After the v1.0.2 update , force feedback post-processing is now available for Assetto Corsa Competizione, just like in the OG Assetto Corsa. Making it possible...

steamcommunity.com

Hi,

I used the Steam guide with your latest LUT files and have a much, MUCH better experience with my G29 in ACC. It took some experimentation with the various files you pack in your zip (I found Stiff Centre was better for me than the recommended version) and a bit of tweaking in game in the controls menu, but I can attest it definitely works, and is of great help.

Thank you for sharing them.

 

[VitaminZeth]

@RasmusP Hello! I recently acquired a quick release and Aftermarket rim for the Logitech G27 and for my old G25 that I'm trying to kill off first. I've been using your FFB settings for a while now, but have had a question on what to do to increase the power a little bit to accommodate the heavier load on the motors?

Should I:

1. Increase the overall Strength in the Logitech Profiler? (Default 100% for me)
2. Adjust the ff_post_process.ini Value? (I think I have it at the default right now: 0.5)
3. Increase the Gain in "CM->Assetto Corsa->Settings->Controls->FFB"? (Currently Mine is at 50%)
4. Increase the individual car FFB Value in Game with the "FFB Controller App"?

And if I should do one, two or all three of these things, what would you recommend?
(I'll include some pictures as well).

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP Hello! I recently acquired a quick release and Aftermarket rim for the Logitech G27 and for my old G25 that I'm trying to kill off first. I've been using your FFB settings for a while now, but have had a question on what to do to increase the power a little bit to accommodate the heavier load on the motors?

Should I:

1. Increase the overall Strength in the Logitech Profiler? (Default 100% for me)
2. Adjust the ff_post_process.ini Value? (I think I have it at the default right now: 0.5)
3. Increase the Gain in "CM->Assetto Corsa->Settings->Controls->FFB"? (Currently Mine is at 50%)
4. Increase the individual car FFB Value in Game with the "FFB Controller App"?

And if I should do one, two or all three of these things, what would you recommend?
(I'll include some pictures as well).

Hi,
nice rims!

Your question is a bit tricky, I'll explain what I'd do:

1. Increase the overall Strength in the Logitech Profiler? (Default 100% for me)

Don't ever do this! In the LUT there's a "ffb white noise" value for 0% ffb. It fills the little emptiness around the center and causes the slight rattling when you're standing still.
It's dialed in by trial and error. If you raise the ffb in the Logitech Profilers, this will be increased too and your wheel will start to shake and turn on its own.
I also tried if you could actually get more force out of the Logitech wheels by increasing the ffb in the profiler and sadly the answer is:
No.
I put the ingame ffb to 3000% and then raised and lowered the profiler gain.
More than 100% = not more strength, just pushing all ingame ffb into clipping (only good if the game has a too low maximum like F1 2016 for example).
Below 100% = You won't get any details back. If the game is clipping beyond 100%, the details are lost.

Conclusion: 100% in the Profiler gives you the full range of force. Never put it to anything else than 100%.

2. Adjust the ff_post_process.ini Value? (I think I have it at the default right now: 0.5)

That value is inactive. It's only for the GAMMA stuff, not for LUT.
Gamma is some kind of ffb compression so you get stronger forces at lower ffb outputs or when using more than 1.0, you'll get lower forces at low ffb outputs and then a steep raise towards the top end.
Put it to 1.0 and don't look at it hehe.

3. Increase the Gain in "CM->Assetto Corsa->Settings->Controls->FFB"? (Currently Mine is at 50%)

You can try!
My LUT actually only scales to 75% maximum so you get about 25% headroom to not cause clipping. My LUT is basically a bit like the gamma compression. Nice forces at lower ffb outputs and a bit of headroom at the top end.

However:
There's only ONE gain setting for each car where the deadzone will be completely gone and the turning will be smooth. Too low ffb gain and you'll feel a "hole", too high ffb gain and you'll feel a "notch of force" when doing a left/right chicane.

I tried to dial my LUT in so that you'll be pretty close to the optimum with the AC gain at 50% and the car specific gain at 100%.

So if you increase the gain either in the menu or in the car (same effect btw), you might get a notchy center feel.

What you'd actually need to get the impression of "more force" would be more compression.
The difference between a dubstep/edm song and a classical score isn't that the audio track can actually output more volume. It's just compression that gives the impression of being louder.

4. Increase the individual car FFB Value in Game with the "FFB Controller App"?

This would be exactly the same as 3.
I recommend to put your favourite cars to 100% and then adjust the menu gain until all these cars feel "good".
Then fine tune each car between 85-115%.

I sometimes read about people putting the gain to 30% and then having ALL cars between 150-200% so they always have to dial the car in...
Just put the menu gain to 45% then and have the cars between 100-150%.

what would you recommend?

In the end the only nice solution would be a new custom LUT that boosts lower forces while having the same deadzone-removal effect.
So a steeper raise at the beginning of the LUT while keeping the first 5 values the same.

I'll create one tomorrow for you for a first try!

 

[VitaminZeth]

@RasmusP wow! I greatly appreciate the response. Far and beyond expectations! - For the time being, I won't touch any settings then and wait for that LUT file to be made. Seriously I greatly appreciate it - I also think that it would be super beneficial for others as well, for adding an aftermarket wheel tends to be the craze or first upgrade to the Logitech Wheel Bases if it isn't a Brass encoder or Fans for cooling. Will keep a lookout for tomorrow! - If it ends up being super awesome, I recommend to include it in the download package as well.

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP wow! I greatly appreciate the response. Far and beyond expectations! - For the time being, I won't touch any settings then and wait for that LUT file to be made. Seriously I greatly appreciate it - I also think that it would be super beneficial for others as well, for adding an aftermarket wheel tends to be the craze or first upgrade to the Logitech Wheel Bases if it isn't a Brass encoder or Fans for cooling. Will keep a lookout for tomorrow! - If it ends up being super awesome, I recommend to include it in the download package as well.

Here's the v1 of your custom lut. Try it and report back.
You can see the two curves in comparison. It might be too steep between 10-20%? Maybe the curved part has to be smoother, like a slight curve from 10-40%.
Sadly I don't have the math tools to just click at a few points and let the pc calculate a smooth curvature through all points.. I'm doing it manually by raising and lowering single points and see how the curve looks like.

BTW both curves are "smooth". It's the maximum accuracy with 0.00 formatting. I think the AC luts can do 0.000 but I don't think anyone can feel that difference... And I don't really want to fiddle with thousands

You need to rename the "VitaminZeth_Custom_1.lut.ini" to "VitaminZeth_Custom_1.lut". RD doesn't allow for lut-files to be uploaded in a thread post.

Also you need change the lut name in the ff_post_process.ini. (Or you use my attached and already configured ff_post_process.ini)

Or you can load the lut via Content Manager, I'm not sure..

Beware though: CM likes to change things back to the previously used LUT so set it up, go on track, close AC, close CM, reopen CM and check if it's still showing the VitaminZeth lut!

If not: change the files manually and start Assetto via steam, not CM! Go on track, close Assetto und start CM. This will somehow tell CM to use the new lut and stop it from reloading the previously used one.
Strange and annoying bug...

 

[VitaminZeth]

Here's the v1 of your custom lut. Try it and report back.
You can see the two curves in comparison. It might be too steep between 10-20%? Maybe the curved part has to be smoother, like a slight curve from 10-40%.
Sadly I don't have the math tools to just click at a few points and let the pc calculate a smooth curvature through all points.. I'm doing it manually by raising and lowering single points and see how the curve looks like.

BTW both curves are "smooth". It's the maximum accuracy with 0.00 formatting. I think the AC luts can do 0.000 but I don't think anyone can feel that difference... And I don't really want to fiddle with thousands

You need to rename the "VitaminZeth_Custom_1.lut.ini" to "VitaminZeth_Custom_1.lut". RD doesn't allow for lut-files to be uploaded in a thread post.

Also you need change the lut name in the ff_post_process.ini. (Or you use my attached and already configured ff_post_process.ini)

Or you can load the lut via Content Manager, I'm not sure..

Beware though: CM likes to change things back to the previously used LUT so set it up, go on track, close AC, close CM, reopen CM and check if it's still showing the VitaminZeth lut!

If not: change the files manually and start Assetto via steam, not CM! Go on track, close Assetto und start CM. This will somehow tell CM to use the new lut and stop it from reloading the previously used one.
Strange and annoying bug...

View attachment 399721

Holy cr*p - I truly appreciate the Work and help! I will give this a go today and report back tomorrow (or tonight) with my thoughts on the feeling.

I've come across that bug before myself, very weird. It is also linked to settings presets you can save as well. For instance,when I made the changes to the ff_post_process.ini file so the VALUE=1.0, if I reload a save I made prior to that change, CM will overwrite it with thevaule from memory. I really hope that Ilja can get a fix on that, so when we make changes manually, CM also remembers to italicize the preset due to a value change.

 

[VitaminZeth]

[Update on V1]:

So far I gotta say just wow! Very different from the Recommended.LUT file for sure! Much stronger and the wheel is reacting a little quicker than before, with all things considered.

I went out of my way to try two different setup options:

1. Aftermarket wheel without the quick release

2. Aftermarket wheel with quick release

The additional weight on its own in scenario #1 is enough to make the motors work harder, even on calibration - but the lut file changes definitely worked wonders!

Scenario #2 however, which is the ideal one for me, still does require a little more power on the low end in my opinion.

Doing both of these brings up this question: Is there a little more headroom for stronger FFB on the curve while keeping the "notchy-middle" virtually invisible? Because, whether or not I was running a #1 or #2, I never felt the dead zone in the FFB, so the top end is definitely spot on!

If there is a stronger curve that can be realistically done, within reason, for the setup, I would be more than happy to try that one out as well! I also recorded myself doing a run (no RL Cam, however) but the replay was with the LUT settings from V1 and I beat my PB!

Apologies for the recording does freeze up at some point.

 

[RasmusP]

Doing both of these brings up this question: Is there a little more headroom for stronger FFB on the curve while keeping the "notchy-middle" virtually invisible? Because, whether or not I was running a #1 or #2, I never felt the dead zone in the FFB, so the top end is definitely spot on!

If there is a stronger curve that can be realistically done, within reason, for the setup, I would be more than happy to try that one out as well! I also recorded myself doing a run (no RL Cam, however) but the replay was with the LUT settings from V1 and I beat my PB!

Nice and crazy driving!

In theory you can go a lot higher in the force range early on. Beware though that this means less difference between forces when you're in the higher ffb range.

So slight turns will already feel very strong but the difference between a very heavy turn and the absolute maximum of grip will become less.
At default the G27 is very linear in what you feel. However the curve that wheelcheck is showing is already pushed towards lower forces to make it feel linear in your hands.

Anyway, pictures are a lot better to understand this.
What you'd need would be this: (awesome drawing skills!)
Same deadzone removal (first 15% of ffb) and then a lot more force early on.

 

[Arthur446]

Hey!

Just came across your mod via a steam guide for ACC, I have the DFGT and am wondering what to set the gain ingame too using your DFGT Lut file, the recommended noclip LUT has crazy vibrations when I put the wheel to the centre.

Any ideas on how to A) Stop those vibrations in the centre or B) What to set the gain to in the DFGT Lut as it's kind of weak atm

 

[RasmusP]

Hey!

Just came across your mod via a steam guide for ACC, I have the DFGT and am wondering what to set the gain ingame too using your DFGT Lut file, the recommended noclip LUT has crazy vibrations when I put the wheel to the centre.

Any ideas on how to A) Stop those vibrations in the centre or B) What to set the gain to in the DFGT Lut as it's kind of weak atm

Only use the dfgt lut with the dfgt!
That wheel only has a dead zone of 2-4%. The G wheels have 14-18%!!

So yeah, the G luts will shake like crazy as you say.

With all luts, apart from the "recommended" one, put the gain to 100%.
If it feels too weak, put it to maybe 110% or if you have a "bump" in the center or shaking, then lower it to maybe 85%.

Just play around with it close to 100% until the center feels tight and nice without a "hole" and without a "bump".

 

[Arthur446]

Only use the dfgt lut with the dfgt!
That wheel only has a dead zone of 2-4%. The G wheels have 14-18%!!

So yeah, the G luts will shake like crazy as you say.

With all luts, apart from the "recommended" one, put the gain to 100%.
If it feels too weak, put it to maybe 110% or if you have a "bump" in the center or shaking, then lower it to maybe 85%.

Just play around with it close to 100% until the center feels tight and nice without a "hole" and without a "bump".

Thank you very much for the help, after some tweaking I found out that in the profiler the FFB Was set to 115% Which was causing the bump in the centre, I have since reduced it on 93% and it's very smooth now! However I have had to sacrifice some strength from the FFB by using the DFGT Lut but oh well!

Thank you again!

 

[RasmusP]

Thank you very much for the help, after some tweaking I found out that in the profiler the FFB Was set to 115% Which was causing the bump in the centre, I have since reduced it on 93% and it's very smooth now! However I have had to sacrifice some strength from the FFB by using the DFGT Lut but oh well!

Thank you again!

When you lower the profiler gain to 93%, you will lose 7% of ffb range and limit the maximum ffb to these 93%.
The profiler isn't really something you wanna change.
Put it back to 100% please to not increase or lower/limit the ffb at all.
If you have too strong vibrations with the dfgt lut then, I'd recommend to lower the:
- first value by 20-30%
- second value by 10-20%
- third value by 5-10%

Calculate what these values would be and just open the LUT file with the basic windows editor. You need to edit the value right of the | sign.

 

[Arthur446]

When you lower the profiler gain to 93%, you will lose 7% of ffb range and limit the maximum ffb to these 93%.
The profiler isn't really something you wanna change.
Put it back to 100% please to not increase or lower/limit the ffb at all.
If you have too strong vibrations with the dfgt lut then, I'd recommend to lower the:
- first value by 20-30%
- second value by 10-20%
- third value by 5-10%

Calculate what these values would be and just open the LUT file with the basic windows editor. You need to edit the value right of the | sign.

Hey dude,

Don't worry, I have sorted it to my needs now and the FFB in the profiler is on 98% and I have no vibrations!

 

[Goblin616]

What is LUT? Forgive me for sounding stupid, but I feel normally it's a good idea to always explain abbreviations, at least in the first post. I use a G25, and don't experience any sort of shaking, but am always up for improved setup for better 'feel.'