Logitech G29

[AnDrEwY9087]

Hello,
I just got into racing simulators, and I bought a USED G29, the wheel is in good shape, but sometimes when i turn right the wheel is cracking ans making some noise (only when force feedback pass a certain amount).
Do you know what the problem might be? and if I can repair it?
Thanks in advance for your time !

 

[Grape-Juice]

It's geared force feedback so mine makes a lot of noise as it moves through the gears on the FFB (and I've only had it 3 months) maybe one of the pegs on the Cogs is broken

it's worth looking up a YT vid on taking it apart because there pretty easy to put back together just to see and you have no warranty anyway. But bear in mind mine does make a sort of cracking noise sometimes as well so it could just be the way the wheel works when it passes a certain limit on the gears on the motors.

. - video

Problem is getting to the motors and components of the FFB system is pretty hard.

 

[RasmusP]

Well my G27 sometimes sounds like it would shred itself into pieces but still working totally fine and the same like it was new after 3 years

Yes, it's normal! Depending on the game and the FFB strength it can be really bad or not. rFactor 2 FFB without some smoothing in the settings and then going over kerbs sounds like it would just break apart!
No harm done though!

 

[AnDrEwY9087]

Thanks guys, It`s true FFB is feeling the same, i was worried ony about the sound, becouse it`s not brand new, and i don`t want to broke it, i play asseto corsa, (using a lut table, and FFBcliper app) and it feels very good, except on low speed, when i have to turn the car after a crash, wheel is making sound like crazy.

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks guys, It`s true FFB is feeling the same, i was worried ony about the sound, becouse it`s not brand new, and i don`t want to broke it, i play asseto corsa, (using a lut table, and FFBcliper app) and it feels very good, except on low speed, when i have to turn the car after a crash, wheel is making sound like crazy.

That's the "damping" effect. In real life a slow car is really heavy to steer!
To get rid of that:
\\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assettocorsa.ini

find:
[FF_EXPERIMENTAL]
ENABLE_GYRO=0
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0
DAMPER_GAIN=0

MIN_LEVEL and GAIN are probably not 0 for you. Put them to zero and your wheel will go completely light when standing still. Not very realistic but at least not making weird sounds

 

[AnDrEwY9087]

ok, thanks

 

[AnDrEwY9087]

i turned MIN_LEVEL and GAIN and it feelit worst, but playng with those values i found that if i set min value between 1% or 5% and gain to 50 %- 70 % it works very good

 

[MotherDawg]

FYI
I bought my G29 used and right away it made noise here or there.
I took it apart real fast, I did not want anything to "shred" itself.
The two motor gears that run on the steering shaft ring gear are solidly held against that ring gear.
No slack there.
But at the end of the steering shaft there is another gear that makes a slider go right-left as we steer. Exactly like a Rack & Pinion. It's used as a hard stop to physically lock at 900 degrees.
That rack is held against the pinion by a leaf spring.
When the wheel goes "clockclockclock", It's the rack jumping, flapping up and down.
The cogs are deeper than the loose play, I don't see it "shredding" as the rack has nothing to do except stop the wheel at the limit.Tough explaining this... it's kind of a slave that follows the pinion around. Zero force.
My best guess is since the rack is not part of the gear assembly, production wise, dropping the assembly on a spring prevents having to verify clearance... drop in - screw in - next!
No adjustments to do.

***** EDIT *****
See below for my Nov. 27, 2018 post, #11.

Visible in this clip at 7:10

And in this on at 39:25

 

[Matthew Wilkinson]

This is Logitech wheels, they are all the same internally and while robust(usually) they are no where near as good to use as any of the Thrustmaster offerings, even the T150 has far superior FFB to the G25,27,29,920,dfgt,df pro. I used to use Logitech myself until I saw the light or a T500 for only a hundred Pounds.

 

[MotherDawg]

Tidbit to add but this is totally experimental... your milage may vary!

Logitech-G29-Solution-for-missing-driver-settings-in-Logitech-Gaming-Software

From that page:

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Logitech\Gaming Software\DriverSettings

DamperStrength, SpringStrength and OverallStrength, the three missing settings in the Logitech Gaming Software are there and are all set to 100% (10000=100%).

Just edit the entries and set them to 0. You may also edit the FFB overall strength a little bit up but remember to lower FFB strength ingame to compensate (the value 10500 means 105%).

Further down that page, there is a comment that make a lot of sense:
"These are supposed to be configured and controlled by the games now which is why they aren't offered in the drivers any longer. Those are legacy settings for the old games that didn't have FFB settings."
____________

Since I rather have those set to zero, I will be testing it in the coming days...
After reading some more, I have settled to try this with the 3 setting at 10 and not zero.
From the FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" page:
"Turns out enabling spring/damper in the profiler seems to then allow rf2 to apply it's own spring/damper affects onto the final ffb output."
G25/G27 user might also want to leave a few percent in their Profiler.
____________

@Matthew Wilkinson, Mine is bigger than yours... YaDaYaDaYaDa...
If you don't have something constructive... go call your mom.

 

[MotherDawg]

Here's a story for ya:

I might be quite wrong about where the noise comes from... face/palm.

When not in use, I slide my wheel on a shelf of a small bookcase next to my chair. When I plugged it in the other day, it autorotated itself off of the shelf. I had my back to it, I did not see how it hit the ground, the only thing I knew, my new wheel, was now making one hell off a racket when rotating.

What The Efff Just Happened!

So I took it apart... the whole thing into pieces. With each motor in my hand, I applied voltage to them, one was running silently... perfect, the other was turning but the torque was on/off/on/off/on/off/, it had a rotational shake to it and was quite noisy. It was finished, I needed a new motor. I opened it up, hammering at the lock tabs, being careful of not bending the brushes while pulling off the back end... full inspection... nothing. I looked at avery bit back and forth... nothing. I put it back together, hammering the tabs back in, power... trut-trut-trut-trut-trut... done for... passé. In a fit of frustration, while the thing was shaking in my hand, I took the hammer and whacked it on the side.... bzzzzzzzzzzz... all nice and running smooth like the other one. Well that was 6 hours well spent! Next time something does awry, I'm just gonna take my hammer to it.


So, I put the whole thing back together and it's there that I noticed a gap. where the main bearing of the wheel shaft comes through the back metal plate of the motor/gear box. The bearing and back plate at 9:45 in the first clip. That hole is more than a few thousandth bigger than the bearing itself. I now think the noise comes from the bearing moving around in there. When I saw that, I "Tried" to made a shim out of the side of a beer can, it was all tight for a few weeks but it didn't hold, beer can aluminum is way too soft.

I'll see at the next tear down..

HF

I saved / fixed my wheel... Mouhahahaha... I am so good!