DIY: using Thrustmaster wheels with QR and working buttons on DD wheelbase like VRS DirectForce Pro / MiGE 130ST

Deleted member 1066209 · Jan 24, 2023

Yes! Thank you, that is extremely helpful. Much appreciated, @Insert Coin .

wolit · Mar 2, 2023

Thanks, already read the serial data from the wheel, i´ll leave it here If you want to add to your sketch.

Code:

  TM Open Wheel
--------------------------------
 *
 Byte 1
7 - constant 0
6 - constant 0
5 - constant 1
4 - constant 0
3 - constant 0
2 - constant 1
1 - constant 1
0 - constant 0
 *
 Byte 2
7 - yellow down left (6)
6 - Dpad left
5 - Dpad down
4 - Dpad right
3 - green down left (4)
2 - toggle switch left (7)
1 - toggle switch pushed in (13)
0 - toggle switch right (8)
 *
 Byte 3
7 - Dpad up
6 - red upper left (10)
5 - blue upper left (3)
4 - purple upper right (5)
3 - left paddle (1)
2 - orange upper right (9)
1 - right paddle (2)
0 - constant 0

Hi guys,
it looks like every rim uses a different bit for each button-number.
These are the button-numbers-lines which worked for me for the Open Wheel Add On and RS GT rims:

Open Wheel Add On --> {-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1, 5,34,33,32,3,6,12,7, 31,9,2,4,0,8,1,0, -1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1};

T 300 RS GT --> {-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1, 5,7,11,8,5,1,10,3, 4,6,33,0,32,34,31,2, -1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1,-1};

both of them have left and right paddle shifters mapped as button 1 and 2, but, basically, on PC it doesn't matter how the keys are mapped to every button number, since they can be obviously reprogrammed in every simulator.
The numbers do indicate the button-numbers minus 1. For example:

5 --> button 6
8 --> button 9

and, the directional cross (hat switch) is represented by the numbers 31 (up), 32 (left), 33 (down) and 34 (right). Obviously, each number (if not -1 ) should appear only once.
The only thing that matters is that every single button number must be triggered by one and one only key; and it is a good praxis to always set the left paddle shifter as button 1 (0) and the right paddle shifter as button 2 (1).

To identify which bit is used by each key on a particular rim you can use Putty, as suggested by "Insert Coin", by setting the debugging flag to true and selecting the correct COM Port.
For example: the T300 RS GT uses the second position (reading from left to right) of the 3rd byte for the "PS" key, and on my line I mapped it as button 7 (6).

With that said, it should be relatively easy for everyone to correctly program an Arduino Micro board for any Thrustmaster rim.

Insert Coin · Nov 22, 2023

If you experience a bit of play when turning the wheel and/or hear 'clicks' in the wheel at high FFB forces, there is a great chance the wheel hub inside the wheel is 'wiggling'. It took me a long time to find out where this problem came from. It is relatively easily fixed. Remove the quick release from the wheel and check if you can move this round part a bit left and right:

If this is the case, the poles on the hub are a bit too thin. The diameter of the poles should match the holes exactly:

Just put some tape on the poles until you can just put the hub back in. It should be a tight fit.

Reassemble the wheel and the problem is gone.

BA114 · Nov 22, 2023

Just wanted to say thankyou for this code. It's working well with my 28 GT wheel as well, however the button numbers differ from others. The button mapping on the wheel matches that of the 599xx however buttons in the "setup USB game controllers" don't match. Perhaps the "wheelbyte" for the 28 GT is different to the 599xx. I'll debug and check.

I'd really like to add bluetooth to the Pro Micro. Im waiting on delivery of some HC-05s to try reprogramming with RN-42 Firmware and try to get that working.

BA114 · Nov 23, 2023

I lied. Its the same as the 599xx

radje748 · Dec 27, 2023

Insert Coin said:
If you experience a bit of play when turning the wheel and/or hear 'clicks' in the wheel at high FFB forces, there is a great chance the wheel hub inside the wheel is 'wiggling'. It took me a long time to find out where this problem came from. It is relatively easily fixed. Remove the quick release from the wheel and check if you can move this round part a bit left and right:
View attachment 708936

If this is the case, the poles on the hub are a bit too thin. The diameter of the poles should match the holes exactly:
View attachment 708937

Just put some tape on the poles until you can just put the hub back in. It should be a tight fit.
View attachment 708938

Reassemble the wheel and the problem is gone.