The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[KKaiser4]

Doesn't work in safe mode either. Here is a screen shot showing SimFeedbackStart running, but nothing in the taskbar.

 

[KKaiser4]

It looks like the issue is with remove_blocking. I tried it on another computer and got the prompt when I ran remove_blocking.bat and the simfeedback program ran fine on that computer. remove_blocking will not run on my simracing computer. I don't know what the issue might be, but have tried safe mode and turned off windows defender in case it was blocking it. Any suggestions?

 

[anton_Chez]

Mine worked when I took it off the Windows installed drive. No other dramas apart from that. Same symptons as you before I tried the other drive.

 

[KKaiser4]

I finally got it working!! I reset all windows security/notification settings back to default and was able to get the remove_blocking.bat to successfully run. It's working great except for oval racing in iracing. Works perfect on road courses, but is not working on paved and dirt ovals. Not sure if this is a known thing or not. Thanks for the help!

 

[Ringorian]

Use the 60hz Provider for oval

 

[Michal Burisin]

Sure, happy to help! The 8020 setup was totally fun to do. I ordered the parts and designed this myself, and it wasn't that expensive. *maybe* $500 or a bit less to do this.

It's based on 4080 profiles and the 40-series. Depth of the main rails is 1525mm. Width between the rails is 535mm, enough to clear the NLR v3 and mount it as low as possible between the rails. The main uprights on the wheel deck are 600mm. You'll need:

2 ea 4080 rails, 1525mm,
4 ea 4040 square profiles, 610mm, for seat and pedal mounts.
6 ea 4080 "light" profiles, 600mm, for uprights, cross braces, and aux mounts
(some of these will be cut during installation)
1 ea 4040 square profile, 1219mm (4 ft), cut during installation for wheel deck supports.
4 4040 dynamic joints
4 5-hole, 40 series corner braces
approximately 250 t-slot nuts (yes, you need that many)
approximately 100 corner brackets
~250 m8 x 16mm bolts
~25 m8 x 20mm bolts
other misc hardware

I probably forgot some stuff, but that's the key 8020 bits, above. Your rig looks AMAZING, really, really well done! I'd love to try it out sometime, seriously.

If you're ever in Albuquerque, let me know, and we can try things out and compare notes.

Thanks!

When you refer to square profiles:

By light you mean this:

And square is this?

I don't get this one: "approximately 100 corner brackets"

I looked hard and see only like 20 in use. They are possibly on the wheeldeck, but it's still hard to imagine this many . Would you have by any chance more photos of the wheel deck in front, which is not very visible from these photos you already sent?

Also what really suprised me is price, maybe you have some really cheap supplier in US.

But 1 corner bracket in shop where I buy aluminium profiles is like 3 EUR. Meter of 4040 light is like 10 EUR. They don't have eshop, so I would need to quote them directly, but I think this would be much more than 500 EUR with these prices, I guess it will be more like 1000 - 1500 EUR, anybody got recommendation for cheap aluminium profiles in Europe?

Long road to Albuquerque, but if I'm ever in the area, I'll let you know You're also welcome if you ever wanted to visit Prague .

 

[ThugUK]

Just actuators themselves can use 16 brackets (4x each actuator).
The frame itself may require 1 or 2 either side of each joint (the square frame, 2x seat mounts, the wheel mount the 2 pedal mounts plus cross sections, the gearstick mount etc), so I can see there are quite a few angle brackets required. Ok maybe not 100, but certainly more than 50-75

 

[diablo2112]

Yes, that's exactly the difference between regular and "light" profile. The light would probably work for everything, honestly. The 8020 stuff is quite strong.

Next time I move the rig, I'll get a picture of the front (the rubber pads on the bottom of the feet prevent this from moving during operation, but also prevent me from moving the rig).

It's really easy to use 4 corner brackets in a single 4080 90-degree joint. 2 on each side to brace. If you double up key joints, you'll quickly get to several dozen with any kind of accessories mounted. However, I did overestimate, for sure. I just counted, and I have something like 55 corner brackets on my rig. I bought the 8020 profile off eBay, and here in the US shipping was reasonable. My total cost for the profile was $468. Corner brackets were $18 for ten off Amazon. I had the metric nuts, and ordered 200 slot nuts, which somehow wasn't enough.

I've been avoiding adding up the cost, I'm married. Looks like $600 is closer to the mark for my cost, but you may not have things like metric nuts already. It's starting to look like an EU buyer may be just as well off picking up a GT1 or P1x rig from Sim-Lab.

Good luck, having tons of fun with my rig. Been tuning the motion in Simtools, lots of options. Feels fantastic. Today, I'll go after Asseto Corsa profile (yesterday was Project Cars 2).

 

[diablo2112]

Got rid of the huge monitor stand, and mounted the ultrawide on the rig. It's solid, doesnt' shake at all. We'll see how it holds up to the motion. So far, so good, and so much more neat and compact. Wife approved.

 

[UncleGit]

Is that a HOTAS mount in front of the seat ?

If so how do you mount the throttle and deal with pedal changes for transitioning between flying and racing ?

Just starting out on my build and have all the parts for the SFX100 ready and the printer running, for the actual frame I've ordered a P1-X to use as a starting point - just trying to figure out the best way to mount everything for a dual purpose rig.

 

[diablo2112]

Yes, that's a Thrustmaster HOTAS. Custom underseat mount. It's bent slightly to angle the stick away from the chair.

I do mainly space sims (Eve Valkyre, etc) so don't really use the pedals. I've got a little app that allows the throttle and clutch to serve as rudder pedals if I wanted, but haven't used it much. The throttle is on a removable mount that screws into the 4080 profile on the left side of the rig.

 

[Michal Burisin]

Yes, that's exactly the difference between regular and "light" profile. The light would probably work for everything, honestly. The 8020 stuff is quite strong.

Next time I move the rig, I'll get a picture of the front (the rubber pads on the bottom of the feet prevent this from moving during operation, but also prevent me from moving the rig).

It's really easy to use 4 corner brackets in a single 4080 90-degree joint. 2 on each side to brace. If you double up key joints, you'll quickly get to several dozen with any kind of accessories mounted. However, I did overestimate, for sure. I just counted, and I have something like 55 corner brackets on my rig. I bought the 8020 profile off eBay, and here in the US shipping was reasonable. My total cost for the profile was $468. Corner brackets were $18 for ten off Amazon. I had the metric nuts, and ordered 200 slot nuts, which somehow wasn't enough.

I've been avoiding adding up the cost, I'm married. Looks like $600 is closer to the mark for my cost, but you may not have things like metric nuts already. It's starting to look like an EU buyer may be just as well off picking up a GT1 or P1x rig from Sim-Lab.

Good luck, having tons of fun with my rig. Been tuning the motion in Simtools, lots of options. Feels fantastic. Today, I'll go after Asseto Corsa profile (yesterday was Project Cars 2).

55 sounds more reasonable, thanks . I'll look around for cheaper supplier, but I'm not sure, I'll find any. It might be cheaper to go Sim-Lab rig, but I'll probably need wider base, so I'll have to do it completely custom.

I'll wait little bit, until I really build SFX, with 8020, everything is super fast. Attaching custom peripheries to N1 is quite hell to do going to 8020 will save me lot of nerves for sure and maybe also money in the end

PS. Your monitor mount looks amazing, well done as usual

 

[Black_rat]

I use https://www.obutto.eu/en/r3volution/24-obutto-a10-warthog-flight-stick-mount-5600228673120.html for my warthog on 8020, works fine for me

 

[sn4il]

I'll look around for cheaper supplier, but I'm not sure, I'll find any.

https://www.tnutz.com/product-category/15-series-extrusions/
Check these guys out. Fast & reliable service.

 

[C64]

Any recommendations for blowers to attach to my rig ? - it's starting to warm up in my shed ( flat roof and dark brown garage door ) and I need something to cool me down... would also like to hook them up to simfeedback ( or other tactile software ) in the future.

... Amazon uk would be my shop of choice

 

[TRC7]

SRS has several install and go packages, I have been running a dual fan setup for a year and really like it. It is quiet, compact and effective, I run at 50% speed in the summer and down to 30% in winter.
https://www.simracingstudio.com/

 

[Furnace Inferno]

I just bought a cheap fan from Amazon, works just as well if not better because it’s constantly cooling me not just when you are moving at speed.

 

[Mascot]

There are cheap Chinese Dyson Blade looki-likee knock-offs on eBay that are surprisingly good. No danger of accidentally poking your todger into the rotating blades either, depending what you get up to in VR...

 

[sn4il]

What kind of tape I should use between hollow shaft and slider??

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

There are cheap Chinese Dyson Blade looki-likee knock-offs on eBay that are surprisingly good. No danger of accidentally poking your todger into the rotating blades either, depending what you get up to in VR...

If you turn them round, do they suck? I'm asked my for my friend.