The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Tronicgr_6DOF]

1204 s 1605 ball screw & nut?

Hi all,
I'm based out of Singapore, and unable find the exact 100100 profile. The one that I currently have has a narrower clearance in the center and does not have enough space to fit the 1605 type ball screw nut (48mm).

So if I was thinking of changing to type1204 (40mm) ball screw & nut (keeping 250cm length), will it still work correctly? Any change of alignment / off set required?
View attachment 315850

(I'll of course make the necessary adjustment on the STL files so all the mounting parts will fit correctly)

Thanks.

Using different lead screw will require modifying the electronic gear calculations.... just saying...

 

[RowanH]

@DJ_Psymon if you are unable to get the Kinetik profile then try the Item24 profile. https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/

I known the Australian distributor will send to New Zealand so should be no issue sending to Singapore.

Way less hassle than trying something completely different.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Using different lead screw will require modifying the electronic gear calculations.... just saying...

Yeh.. that's what I was worrying about. I'll try to find the right profile then. Thanks.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

@DJ_Psymon if you are unable to get the Kinetik profile then try the Item24 profile. https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/

I known the Australian distributor will send to New Zealand so should be no issue sending to Singapore.

Way less hassle than trying something completely different.

Thanks! I'll try Item24 then. Thank you!

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Btw, is this the one? It doesn't have the measurement and doesn't look exactly the same as the one from Kinetik.

https://sg-product.item24.com/en/pr...-1001042798/profile-10-100x100-natural-62456/

@DJ_Psymon if you are unable to get the Kinetik profile then try the Item24 profile. https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/

I known the Australian distributor will send to New Zealand so should be no issue sending to Singapore.

Way less hassle than trying something completely different.

 

[sn4il]

So if I was thinking of changing to type1204 (40mm) ball screw

Is it 40mm or 12mm??

 

[RowanH]

Btw, is this the one? It doesn't have the measurement and doesn't look exactly the same as the one from Kinetik.

https://sg-product.item24.com/en/pr...-1001042798/profile-10-100x100-natural-62456/

You'll have to read through the Mod page I gave you..all details are in there including the links for the different .stl files for you.

Yes it's slightly different than the Kinetik profile, but will still work with the standard spec ball screw.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Sorry I meant 42mm, the widest side of the nut. The screw / rod itself is 10mm (the 1605 series is 12mm).

Thanks! I'll try Item24 then. Thank you!

 

[diablo2112]

Finished!

A good 20 hours of work, and one sharp mitre saw blade, and the cockpit is complete. I've had a few hours testing out the SFX-100 system, and in a word, it's stunning! Really, really impressive system. The fine details and texture it provides are uncanny. I've run this with my NLR v3 seat mover, with the seat at *very* subdued settings for surge and sway, and this combo is just fantastic.

There's lots to say about this system, and I'll provide more indepth comments in a few days. For now, here's a few pics. My goal in the 80:20 rig was 1) compact, 2) ultra-stiff, and 3) decent looking. I aimed to eliminate ANY flex what-so-ever in the wheel deck. Even a few of the commercial 80:20 riges I've tried had the ever-so-slightest amount of flex in their wheel decks. Not this one.

I probably over-engineered the deck on this rig. Stiff connector plates, + dynamic joints to triangulate the deck into the frame and remove ANY flex. As hard as you can try to move the wheel, the only thing that flexes at all is the wheel rim. Far-and-away the stiffest setup I've ever personally seen. A bonus of the system (see below) is that the actuators are very closely mechanically coupled to both the pedal plate and the wheel deck. As such, you get tons of tactile and fine feedback through both your feet and the rim. Astonishing, actually. The auxillary control mount (sequential shifter + custom made hydraulic handbrake) is equally stiff, not a bit or flex of movement.

Another element: Thano's controller has worked flawlessly. Thanos + simtools gives tons of options. I'll post my settings in a bit, but they're working very, very well. Lots of fine road detail + good overall track position data, but not overwhelming (unless you go off course or hit something, then the rig jumps pretty good).

Had tons of fun with this project. It has gone as smooth as anything like this I've done, and considerably smoother than the DIY OSW I did 3 years ago. I can whole-heartily recommend the SFX-100 to anyone with even modest DIY skills. (BTW, I'm almost finished printing a second complete set of SFX 3D parts. Let me know if you're interested in these).

Here's plenty of pics to show the finished rig. Enjoy.

 

[Wmacky]

Congrats, it looks great! I'm in the middle of mine and this inspires me. Can you tell me about those black fans? I've only seen white?

 

[diablo2112]

Black fans are part of the wind simulator from Motion House (South Korea).

https://en-motionhouse.imweb.me/shop/?idx=8

 

[Pyronious]

I've almost finished wiring everything up, using the shield. Should the shield/Arduino be grounded? I was expecting to due to EMI like I've done with other things like my Teensy button box but the shield doesn't have a obvious ground point so thought it better to ask!
Cheers

I haven’t heard of anyone doing any special grounding of the Shield. It’s a passive component, so it shouldn’t be necessary.

 

[Michal Burisin]

Finished!

A good 20 hours of work, and one sharp mitre saw blade, and the cockpit is complete. I've had a few hours testing out the SFX-100 system, and in a word, it's stunning! Really, really impressive system. The fine details and texture it provides are uncanny. I've run this with my NLR v3 seat mover, with the seat at *very* subdued settings for surge and sway, and this combo is just fantastic.

There's lots to say about this system, and I'll provide more indepth comments in a few days. For now, here's a few pics. My goal in the 80:20 rig was 1) compact, 2) ultra-stiff, and 3) decent looking. I aimed to eliminate ANY flex what-so-ever in the wheel deck. Even a few of the commercial 80:20 riges I've tried had the ever-so-slightest amount of flex in their wheel decks. Not this one.

I probably over-engineered the deck on this rig. Stiff connector plates, + dynamic joints to triangulate the deck into the frame and remove ANY flex. As hard as you can try to move the wheel, the only thing that flexes at all is the wheel rim. Far-and-away the stiffest setup I've ever personally seen. A bonus of the system (see below) is that the actuators are very closely mechanically coupled to both the pedal plate and the wheel deck. As such, you get tons of tactile and fine feedback through both your feet and the rim. Astonishing, actually. The auxillary control mount (sequential shifter + custom made hydraulic handbrake) is equally stiff, not a bit or flex of movement.

Another element: Thano's controller has worked flawlessly. Thanos + simtools gives tons of options. I'll post my settings in a bit, but they're working very, very well. Lots of fine road detail + good overall track position data, but not overwhelming (unless you go off course or hit something, then the rig jumps pretty good).

Had tons of fun with this project. It has gone as smooth as anything like this I've done, and considerably smoother than the DIY OSW I did 3 years ago. I can whole-heartily recommend the SFX-100 to anyone with even modest DIY skills. (BTW, I'm almost finished printing a second complete set of SFX 3D parts. Let me know if you're interested in these).

Here's plenty of pics to show the finished rig. Enjoy.

Such an awesome work! You inspire me yet again!

I based my own rig, based on your previous rSeat N1 setup, which just looked so phenomenal , here's what I got so far:

More info in thread here, if anybody is interested. It has become heavily tactile focused rig, but since then SFX100 project came to life. I'm getting closer to finishing DYI g-seat and once I have it, I'll start with SFX100.

I am still torn between putting my rSeat N1 on top of SFX100 or build 8020 like you did here. My rSeat N1 sits on top of 4 cm MDF board which is like 30 - 50 kg.

The rig has 6 Buttkickers Concerts which is 6 * 5,5 kg = 33 kg. Front pedal platform is steel + 8 mm aluminium plate which is probably another 25 kg. So the rig has become quite a beast to already heavy N1 rig.

@saxxon66 told me, the weight shouldn't be problem, but to move such heavy weight seems little bit ridiculous to me .

I really like how N1 looks, but the 8020, especially as you designed it looks as cool and is just much sleaker, and probably much less than half weight of N1. You did really awesome work here .

So at one point, I will have to make a decision:

1) attach SFX100 to my current setup
2) build 8020 rig

Here are some pros and cons:

1) rSeat N1 solution
+ is already done
+ I have done extensive tactile isolation via vibration, so the tactile feels really nice and the rig doesn't catch any resonance
- the seat position is too high, I hear the lower center of gravity the better chassis mover feels
- weighs a ton
- have to figure out SFX100 mounting
- feels like it will have lot of wheel deck flex with motion, there is really long lever (see photo), this will be exaggerated with heavy DD wheel
- any further addons would require custom mounting which takes a lot of time and money

2) 8020 solution
+ won't be that hard to do regarding moving all the tactile etc. - the pedal deck and g-seat are completely self contained units, I just take them off and mount them to new rig, there won't be necessary any big redesign
+ will be light
+ smaller dimensions
+ lower center of gravity
+ SFX100 easy to attach
+ probably much more solid than N1 (which is plenty solid already )
+ easy modifications for future addons - easy mounting etc.
- will have to spend money for new rig
- all the time and money that went to N1 would go to waste - for example over 300 EUR for isolation materials for tactile etc.
- will have to figure new way how to route cables for tactile (now it's all running under the MDF board)
- possible there will be need to adjust rig for tactile if it catches some resonance, but it looks so solid, it doesn't seem anything can resonate at all, so probably not problem

As I look on the above pros & cons, the 8020 wins all the way. I'm just little bit sad all this work I have put into it will go to waste.

One other possibility is to try SFX100 with N1 and it it doesn't work well, I could then build 8020 rig.

If anyone could offer opinion on moving really heavy rigs, it would be appreciated .

@diablo2112 Would you consider sharing the dimensions / plans / parts you used to build the rig? If you did, it would be really helpful, as your solution to 8020 is quite innovative . Really lot of thought and effort went into this rig, I also really like your cable management and "tidyness".

 

[diablo2112]

Such an awesome work! You inspire me yet again!
(snip)
@diablo2112 Would you consider sharing the dimensions / plans / parts you used to build the rig? If you did, it would be really helpful, as your solution to 8020 is quite innovative . Really lot of thought and effort went into this rig, I also really like your cable management and "tidyness".

Sure, happy to help! The 8020 setup was totally fun to do. I ordered the parts and designed this myself, and it wasn't that expensive. *maybe* $500 or a bit less to do this.

It's based on 4080 profiles and the 40-series. Depth of the main rails is 1525mm. Width between the rails is 535mm, enough to clear the NLR v3 and mount it as low as possible between the rails. The main uprights on the wheel deck are 600mm. You'll need:

2 ea 4080 rails, 1525mm,
4 ea 4040 square profiles, 610mm, for seat and pedal mounts.
6 ea 4080 "light" profiles, 600mm, for uprights, cross braces, and aux mounts
(some of these will be cut during installation)
1 ea 4040 square profile, 1219mm (4 ft), cut during installation for wheel deck supports.
4 4040 dynamic joints
4 5-hole, 40 series corner braces
approximately 250 t-slot nuts (yes, you need that many)
approximately 100 corner brackets
~250 m8 x 16mm bolts
~25 m8 x 20mm bolts
other misc hardware

I probably forgot some stuff, but that's the key 8020 bits, above. Your rig looks AMAZING, really, really well done! I'd love to try it out sometime, seriously.

If you're ever in Albuquerque, let me know, and we can try things out and compare notes.

 

[pass-low]

2 of 4 built , now i really need to sort out a rig to bolt them to it. loads of great info in this thread thanks all and don't be shy in sharing your info

 

[KKaiser4]

Hello, well I got my 4 actuators built, mounted and wired up but for some reason my sim feedback application won't work. I downloaded, extracted it and ran the unblocker. But when I launch the sim feedback app, the splash screen appears but then goes away and nothing happens. If I open task manager, it shows it running, but its no where to be found. Even if I alt Tab, it doesn't show up. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Keith

 

[Ringorian]

Install it for Ex in d;\ or c:.

 

[KKaiser4]

Still no luck. Ive tried extracting to c: and e: same thing. Splash screen loads up then disappears. Shows to be running under task manager but nothing on the taskbar or nothing if I alt tab. Arduino is showing up on Com5 in device manager. Ive tried turning off all of windows defender. I'm out of ideas.

 

[RowanH]

Have you tried running as administrator? shouldn't have to I believe, but might resolve.

 

[KKaiser4]

Yes, I have tried running both remove_blocking and the simfeedback start as admin and not. Is remove_blocking supposed to do anything besides flash up a quick black command prompt box for a second? Getting ready to try safe mode.