The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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FINALLY got through all 5300 posts! I am in the process of building my rig and did not see this question answered so I thought I'd ask. Many of you are running Sim-Lab's P1X chassis, and a few running GT1's. What I am not sure of is concerning the rigidity and general suitability for motion of these three chassis:

P1-X
GT2
GT1-Evo

From what I gather the P1 seems a bit overkill. But I haven't seen anyone compare the GT2 to the GT1-Evo unless I'm missing something. Will both of these be up to the task? I do not want to lose any effects via flex but the P1-X seems a bit high in price. Any advice?
 
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GT1-Evo should be fine; I have the original GT1 (and a few others in here do as well) and it works fine with motion. I'm in the process of gathering up all the parts to build an SFX myself and I'm not worried about the GT1 being stiff enough.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a couple folks using the GT2 with motion setups. Other than the steering uprights it pretty much has the same base as a GT1.
 
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I looked at all the sim lab rigs. As delivery was delayed, I ended up building my own. I used 80x40 profile along with a few joints to triangulate the wheel deck. It’s rock solid, nothing moves. Motion works great with this. If the GT1 has a bit of wheel deck flex, it’s pretty easy to augment 8020 to stiffen it.



 
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I looked at all the sim lab rigs. As delivery was delayed, I ended up building my own. I used 80x40 profile along with a few joints to triangulate the wheel deck. It’s rock solid, nothing moves. Motion works great with this. If the GT1 has a bit of wheel deck flex, it’s pretty easy to augment 8020 to stiffen it.
What was the cost like compared to simlab's? are you in the US?
 
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I purchased 8020 profile off eBay, and t-slot nuts and other hardware from Amazon. Yes, I’m US based. All in was about $650. Not a huge savings over the cheaper Sim-Lab rigs, but I got exactly what I wanted. This includes extra parts like the dynamic joints and parts for an on-rig monitor stand.

You can really make a rock-solid rig with a few extra parts, and get everything mounted exactly where you want. You do need a way to cut the extrusion; a table-top miter saw works great.




 
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After almost 6 months I can say that I have finished my Rig (for the moment), by now it is a month that has concluded the last details, from the first rendering:

Immagine2-Copia.png


At the current Rig:

01.jpg


I did a lot of tests for the active belts with 2 gearmotors driven with SimTools, but besides the normal backlash obviously present in the gearbox motors, there was also a certain, really annoying delay that contrasted the immersion, so I opted for the belts fixed at the base below, with 2 really rigid springs.

Unfortunately, at the moment I only mount a single monitor, as having returned the HP Reverb, due to various factory problems, I am waiting for a new VR at the height, for the moment I get enough of this 27 "2k.

Pedals of my creation, as well as the Wind Simulator and button box.

02.jpg


03.jpg

04.jpg


Inside the feet where the SFX-100 rests, I added several layers of insulation, mounting 10 transducers on the ring also, including LFE, Mini LFE and BassPump III.

05.jpg


And the result is remarkable, almost no ground vibrations, the most intense SFX-100 shocks, of course, can still be heard, but it is impossible to remove them.

Small Dash created to make up for the lack of VR and the use of a single monitor.

07.jpg


See you soon with, I hope, with some news :D

Hey @dedraro. Really liking your pedals. Would you share your 3dprint files?
 
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That's the standard Fanatec QR. I bought a half-dozen of them about 3 years ago, when they were cheap and easy to find pre-OSW. All the paddle shifters are wired through-hub. The wheels are plug-n-play (including standard Fanatec Rims, which have full button, display, and haptic functionality through-hub as well).
 
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There is no way the 15mm (approximately) thick wheel deck flexes on the GT1. I couldn't see anything bending either the regular or the front mount style decks. They are THICK. As long as your mount to the actual chassis is solid (I have 4 M8 bolts holding mine to the uprights) you'll be fine with anything you can throw at it.
 
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Do you have the Vive Pro? This one was reported to not work with SFX100 in the German forum..
Can someone confirm this?? I'm VivePro user.
I'm looking to upgrade to Valve Index this week since I just received a confirmation email from steam.
 
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Can someone confirm this?? I'm VivePro user.
I'm looking to upgrade to Valve Index this week since I just received a confirmation email from steam.

It has something to do with the tracking used by Valve (and any other system that uses the lighthouses are affected in more or less ways). It depends a lot on what differences in configuration users have, location of components, cable management and many other factors like shielding or earthing. It’s hard to say if your Valve Pro will or won’t work with the SFX100 but one user on the German forum never figured it out and gave up I think. I use the Index and it works fine, with a minor inconvenience note though: when the SFX100 is running and I’m sitting in my rig I cant hold the Index HMD by the sides or the screen will go grey, as soon as I remove my hand image comes back and during racing not one single problem has ever occurred. I can however hold the HMD in the middle part somehow (to adjust it for example). I think @HoiHman also reported this. With the OG Vive I never had any problems though. A lot of Pimax users also successfully use the SFX100. Only report I’ve ever heard of unsolved compatibility was one user with the Vive Pro.
 
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I almost finished my sfx-100 build. I’m mounting the actuators to a Simlab P1 rig. Now I’m wondering whether I should mount my Samsung 49” screen to the P1 or that it’s better to have the screen stand alone. What’s the better solution in combination with the actuators?
 
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Thanks for your reply (nice rig btw). So you mounted it to the frame. That would be the easiest solution for me as well, but perspective wise I would think that only a stand alone solution would give me the correct picture looking through the windshield of the car that I’m driving. I mean: the road and environment outside the car should not move together with the rig. Is that something that you (or anyone else) considered as well?
 
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Thanks for your reply (nice rig btw). So you mounted it to the frame. That would be the easiest solution for me as well, but perspective wise I would think that only a stand alone solution would give me the correct picture looking through the windshield of the car that I’m driving. I mean: the road and environment outside the car should not move together with the rig. Is that something that you (or anyone else) considered as well?
We've all considered it, but you got it all backwards.
 
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I don't like my monitor mounted to the chassis with motion. I don't have another solution at the moment but I pretty much only ever use VR so it's not an issue for the most part. I'd almost just run without motion if the monitor is required. I had the V3 seat mover and the screen was stationary for that so I am used to a static screen.
 
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Monitor ON the rig definitely for me. If you look at my youtube channel you can see i have tried both for a while. The Samsung 49" on the rig in a dark room is almost VR.

But.... you have to compromise with your motion profiles. The SFX100 has enough power to snap of any monitor, no matter how well you have mounted it. It's a matter of mass and inertia.

That's why i can remove mine within a couple of minutes a go full out in VR. :D

Here's a small video i recorded this morning. The monitor is so close i have to put my reading glassed to get clear vision :roflmao:

 
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