The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Hi guys,

after many years of being away I suddenly found a renewed interest in sim racing and I'm plesantely surprised by the advance of affordable motion simulators! Last time I checked they were few and far between and insanely expensive. Now I'm slowly finding my way through many options and so found my way in here as well.

I have my list down to this AC DIY simulator and DOF reality H3. It's difficult for me to try anything in person so I'll just have to dive in and hope that I've made the right choice I suppose. It looks like different people like different things in terms of moving and shaking. For me there's no way of telling but I think that just a seat shaker would not be the solution I'd be after.

AC DIY simulator is quite attractive. Initialy I was after Rseat S1 and I still like the looks and adjustability of that. Which makes it OK for a platform like AC rig and not so much for DOF because you can throw the center of gravity out rather quickly I suppose so those come without any options to adjust on the fly.

So can AC handle the weight of Rseat S1 which is supposed to be 55kg naked? Plus another platform below S1 obviously because I don't think it would be possible to mount it directly easily. Not sure how much that would add to the weight.

The way I understand it platform rigs can move you up and down as well which I'm sure comes in handy. DOF is pivoting only so can't do that correct? But yaw is easier to implement so not sure how much of a disadvantage that is compared to AC rig?

Many thanks for your answers!

Sorry your post was left unanswered, it must have been lost in heated discussions about Kinetik. I personally don't know anything about RSEAT S1 other that what I can find on the internet. It looks like a comfortable and compact cockpit. I don't know how rigid it is, but if you don't mind a bit of movement in the wheel deck you will be fine. If you however want to add more things later like handbrakes, shifters, buttonboxes, windsim, etc. you will be limited by the existing mounting options of the frame. I was also looking at a similar steel tube frame in the beginning and was very set in my decision for a long time, even though everyone kept telling me: get an 8020 aluminum rig. And after reading and reading and reading, I finally saw the light, there really is no other option than an 8020 aluminum frame.

- it is MUCH more rigid than any steel tube frame could ever be. This is important if you don't want the FFB and SFX100 motion effects to be lost in flex of the frame.
- it is endlessly customizable, there is no limit to what components you can mount.
- you can change the driving position to whatever exotic driving style you prefer.
- you can mount any seat you want and any pedal and DD wheel you will ever get in the future.
- and the most important: you can mount the SFX100 actuators in a couple of minutes with some angled brackets.

Please, do your future self a favor, if you decide to jump down this rabbit hole, you will definitely end up with an 8020 rig anyway. I know, because I went from this office desk racing:
IMG-2684.jpg


To this full blown motion rig with all the bells and whistles within half a year (it can go fast is you catch the simracing bug):

94-DDED59-F537-4-D0-F-B27-D-A5-CAAC9281-AD.jpg

40399047-B288-4-CAD-96-A2-31-A565-EA883-B.jpg


This could never have been done with a proprietary steel tube frame. Or maybe with a lot of pain and effort. But the result would never be as robust and tremendously rigid like I have now. Thank god I listened to the people telling me to get an aluminum profile frame.

About your question regarding weight the AC motion (SFX100 actuators) can lift, don't worry, all the gear in the world will never be enough to make the SFX100 actuators even break a sweat: they can lift around 200kg per actuator, so if you keep your rig below lets say 400 kg, they will still only be at half of their max rated carrying limit.

Hope you do decide to stay here and we can be of assistance in the future :)
 
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Can anyone confirm that the reduction bushing/thread insert here is the same as the one on the shopping list but the part number changed for the hyperlink? It says "Reducing sleeve RH10 / M8, material: steel, galvanized" which looks to be the same as the old one, but want to confirm before I order.

That's got the same part number on the page as my order (H92RH10M8), and looks visually correct. so I'd say you're good to go.

@saxxon66 ^^ suggest updating the official wiki/shopping list with this link.
 
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I'm glad it's working for you. Many days and countless posts later my post is still not worthy of a reply. Perhaps it contained stupid questions but more likely people noticed and thought "I can't be bothered but surely somebody else will deal with that." Not a great first impression. So I guess I'll be out of this place, down the road wherever...
Not sure if 3 days classifies as many but i did see your post at the time but it seemed to be a 'this is cool' post. Also, it was posted during a conversation that was moving pretty quickly if I recall.

Upon looking closer I do see two questions.
No, the DOFReality product does not have Z axis motion(up\down).
For the other question:
But yaw is easier to implement so not sure how much of a disadvantage that is compared to AC rig?

I'm not sure what you mean. Care to clarify?

There are tons of people here willing to help out, no reason to be so brusk - I've been overlooked a few times too!
 
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Hi guys,

after many years of being away I suddenly found a renewed interest in sim racing and I'm plesantely surprised by the advance of affordable motion simulators! Last time I checked they were few and far between and insanely expensive. Now I'm slowly finding my way through many options and so found my way in here as well.

I have my list down to this AC DIY simulator and DOF reality H3. It's difficult for me to try anything in person so I'll just have to dive in and hope that I've made the right choice I suppose. It looks like different people like different things in terms of moving and shaking. For me there's no way of telling but I think that just a seat shaker would not be the solution I'd be after.

AC DIY simulator is quite attractive. Initialy I was after Rseat S1 and I still like the looks and adjustability of that. Which makes it OK for a platform like AC rig and not so much for DOF because you can throw the center of gravity out rather quickly I suppose so those come without any options to adjust on the fly.

So can AC handle the weight of Rseat S1 which is supposed to be 55kg naked? Plus another platform below S1 obviously because I don't think it would be possible to mount it directly easily. Not sure how much that would add to the weight.

The way I understand it platform rigs can move you up and down as well which I'm sure comes in handy. DOF is pivoting only so can't do that correct? But yaw is easier to implement so not sure how much of a disadvantage that is compared to AC rig?

Many thanks for your answers!

Hey mate.. this must’ve been missed..

I must say though it’s hard to determine what you are actually asking.. but I’ll try.

The SFX actuators can handle many times the weight of the rseat so yes you will be fine in this regard.

I think this motion rig is in a different league than the DOF rig.. the DOF looks fragile to me but I suppose it depends what gear you have and what gear you intend to add. Obviously you will need to invest in an 8020 type rig for this build.

I haven’t tried the DOF rig. But for me it’s probably comparable to buying a logitech G29 vs DD wheel.. both will do the Job.. it all depends on what you want out of it..

Hopefully that helps you a bit.

Edit - didn’t see Hugo’s reply before I posted. He is spot on!
 
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Hey Hugo!

I see you modded you pedal deck to fit the actuators. Did you buy new profile or cut the originals down? How do you like the mod?

I’ve done almost the same as Hugo. Moved pedal deck brackets to inside and cut profile down to match internal width of P1. However I mounted my profile on top of the brackets rather than inside them and used corner brackets to connect underneath. This had the added benefit of raising the deck by an additional 4cm, which suited me. Looks neat and tidy, my HEs etc still fit and everything is well away from the actuators.
 
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Hey Hugo!

I see you modded you pedal deck to fit the actuators. Did you buy new profile or cut the originals down? How do you like the mod?

I got them cut here at a local aluminum cutting facility, they did it for a couple tenners. But if you already know you’ll need this for your SFX100 actuators, you can easily ask Darko at Sim-Lab to have the pedal deck cut so it fits on the inside. He knows that I did this and therefore knows what you mean if you ask him. They have a professional cutting machine in-house so they can do it for no extra cost. All three pedal deck profile pieces need to be cut exactly 100 mm shorter. I even took 101 mm off so it slides better.

This quick mod is really great if I have short guests, the pedal deck is so easy to adjust! Definitely a recommendation. Also, you can use the piece that they cut off (ask for them to send it too) to mount a TH8A if that's what you've got :) This is a a very compact and extremely rigid connection, if you use their TH8A mounting plate:

9-A925-AED-759-C-41-D7-BDAF-44-BBCB762-DAD.jpg


93-F14630-C5-DA-4-CD1-BF6-F-FF013-FA627-F0.jpg


(sorry for off topic guys)
 
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VR SFX peeps: is mounting the sensor to the rig the preferred option? With my NLRv3 my Rift sensor is static and works superbly without the need for the NL compensation software. Mounting it to the P1 when the SFX is installed might be problematic because I'll be demounting my 50" monitor from the rig and wall mounting it on a telescopic bracket, so there won't be any suitable structure on the rig to mount a sensor without adding a big silly arm or something.
 
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VR SFX peeps: is mounting the sensor to the rig the preferred option? With my NLRv3 my Rift sensor is static and works superbly without the need for the NL compensation software. Mounting it to the P1 when the SFX is installed might be problematic because I'll be demounting my 50" monitor from the rig and wall mounting it on a telescopic bracket, so there won't be any suitable structure on the rig to mount a sensor without adding a big silly arm or something.
Well... I suggest you test it out using the quick and dirty method that has become my permanent sensor mount... unscrew the sensor head from the shaft then use a very large blob of bluetak to fix in the top centre of your monitor bezel ( assuming your monitor moves with the rig ). I found having the sensor move with the rig made the movement feel more coordinated - it's a subtle difference so don't expect any dramatic difference between static and moving sensor.
 
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Depends... I have tried both and having the sensor on the rig works better for me..

When the sensor is static.. I can't deal with elevation changes (if you are using pitch).. everything is out of sync.. makes me sick immediately..

Surge effects can be a bit tricky too.. especially in iRacing..

It's really hard to explain.. you'll just have to play around..
 
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I plan on testing both. I haven't used either yet as I've been just getting used to it with the screen, which was hard to adjust to coming from VR. But it doesn't take long and I've just been using that to play with settings and stuff.

Speaking of settings, I've trawled the entire thread the last few days and noted every post that refers to SimFeedback and settings. I'm upstairs now but I'll post the list here so that anyone that wants a helping hand with what the settings do doesn't need to do what I did! SimFeedback looks incredibly deep and I wanted as much info as I could before I jumped in and starting messing with things.

I've also now got my drivers on 3000rpm and dropped the smoothing to 22 from 30. I've ran a couple of hours in it with the baby settings and everything seems fine so I'll leave the drivers now as basically max settings and tune via SimFeedback. Looking forward to getting stuck into this belt tensioner now.....
 
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VR SFX peeps: is mounting the sensor to the rig the preferred option? With my NLRv3 my Rift sensor is static and works superbly without the need for the NL compensation software. Mounting it to the P1 when the SFX is installed might be problematic because I'll be demounting my 50" monitor from the rig and wall mounting it on a telescopic bracket, so there won't be any suitable structure on the rig to mount a sensor without adding a big silly arm or something.

Try and get it fixed on the rig Bud, even if just to experiment and compare. Simon, @sjb266 'hit the nail on the head' as to the reasons why it might be preferable. For info, with my sensor mounted to the P1 and the NLRV3 in-situ I've not had to enable VR compensation and everything feels natural. I tried it but it felt pretty weird.

Couple of mounting ideas using a Smallrig camera mount below.

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-simulator-thread.159524/page-80#post-2892372

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-simulator-thread.159524/page-80#post-2892416
 
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I would love to see some pictures of where people have mounted their camera to the rig. I have mounted mine in the middle on top on my wheelbase but i keep getting position shifts in VR.

Tried moving the camera further back, higher, lower, closer but nothing seems to work.
 
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Well... I suggest you test it out using the quick and dirty method that has become my permanent sensor mount... unscrew the sensor head from the shaft then use a very large blob of bluetak to fix in the top centre of your monitor bezel ( assuming your monitor moves with the rig ). I found having the sensor move with the rig made the movement feel more coordinated - it's a subtle difference so don't expect any dramatic difference between static and moving sensor.
When I come to fit the SFX-100 then the plan is to remove my monitor from the rig and mount it on the wall behind. It's a 50" 4k TV so I'm just a little concerned about something of that size being heaved and rattled around. I don't know, maybe I'm worrying about nothing and it'll be fine where it is, moving with the cockpit? It'd certainly offer me a good place to mount the Rift sensor. It just didn't feel like a sensible thing to do, although I know people do have triples mounted to their cockpits with full motion applied. The TV won't have been designed to effectively live through an earthquake for hours on end, but maybe it'll be OK. I guess it got rattled around plenty of times while being transported from Korea to the UK, so maybe I'm worrying about nothing?

iJXKhPW.jpg


Common sense just tells me it would be a bad idea.
 
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When I come to fit the SFX-100 then the plan is to remove my monitor from the rig and mount it on the wall behind. It's a 50" 4k TV so I'm just a little concerned about something of that size being heaved and rattled around. I don't know, maybe I'm worrying about nothing and it'll be fine where it is, moving with the cockpit? It'd certainly offer me a good place to mount the Rift sensor. It just didn't feel like a sensible thing to do, although I know people do have triples mounted to their cockpits with full motion applied. The TV won't have been designed to effectively live through an earthquake for hours on end, but maybe it'll be OK. I guess it got rattled around plenty of times while being transported from Korea to the UK, so maybe I'm worrying about nothing?

iJXKhPW.jpg


Common sense just tells me it would be a bad idea.

With that beast I'd certainly be erring on the side of caution and stick with your original plan! :)
 
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With that beast I'd certainly be erring on the side of caution and stick with your original plan! :)
I might try it first. With my home-brew mounting method fashioned from leftover extrusion (The Sim Lab monitor mount was no good for my purposes) the TV is held at the back with the standard VESA sockets, but it also rests on the horizontal 8020 support arms. I could easily fit a rubber-buffered bracket each side here where the monitor sits on the 8020 arm to keep the bottom of the screen locked in place. It might be enough to keep things 'solid'.

U8wY0gw.jpg


Without the screen in place I'd have to rig some sort of arm to the cockpit to mount the rift sensor at an appropriate angle and distance so that it moves with the rig.
 
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. I guess it got rattled around plenty of times while being transported from Korea to the UK, so maybe I'm worrying about nothing?

Common sense just tells me it would be a bad idea.

I have a small ancient 22" monitor mounted on the rig so I can do setup stuff, I think you are risking shaking your 4k tv to death ( literally ). It's not the large movements that will do it, it will be the repeated sharp edged shocks that will do the damage over time. I would definitely put it on the wall.
 
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Not even the damage to the TV but knowing it's bouncing around as well when you can't even see it using VR. I can feel the deflection in the panel when I run my actuators and mine is only a 35" monitor. You will be able to feel the movement it creates through your chassis, trust me. Try it with it on, but I have a feeling you'll be turning things down to accommodate the screen being there. I wouldn't want to remove my screen entirely as many titles won't support VR. Things like Wreckfest, AMS, the various arcade rally titles and even just sitting in your seat doing random stuff while in between races and testing settings would be lost without the use of a screen. Mounting mine stand alone might work but it will take up more room in what is already a fairly snug space for me. Needing to allow for the chassis movement as well will mean the legs of it need to be even wider than the cockpit. What we need is an easy way to remove the screen when we don't want it there. This will be affected, however, by the size of it. Moving my 35" is bad enough, trying to remount the 50" would be a headache.
 
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