The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[RowanH]

Rowan, I recently discovered your blog and I love it!
It is very well written and pictured with videos, well done.
Do you mind if I link your blog in the wiki?

Saxxon66 - Yes of course you can link to it. I've put a landing page together for you that you can link to: https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide this will group any future posts I make about it but not include any other random sim racing/other posts. I've got another one to do about re-doing the controller box using xhill's neat 3d printed design, and a bit of review/overview of the profile settings, and then finally tidying up the rig so it looks neat.

Thank you for designing these in the first place

Regarding the brackets they had solid aluminium nubs, unfortunately they weren't going to snap off.. couldn't quite justify an angle grinder just for this project so filing it was. As opposed to the 3d printer that was fully justifiable

Thanks again !

 

[razzta01]

Deleted.

 

[razzta01]

Thx a lot! This is what I meant! Rgds

 

[BluePotato00]

Sharing a photo of my finished 3D prints. Just picked them up a couple hours ago. They were printed on "rafts" which were a pain to remove! But the prints do feel strong.

 

[HugoB]

Sharing a photo of my finished 3D prints. Just picked them up a couple hours ago. They were printed on "rafts" which were a pain to remove! But the prints do feel strong.

Maybe that helped to reduce warping? Are any of your corners warped up slightly?

 

[BluePotato00]

Maybe that helped to reduce warping? Are any of your corners warped up slightly?

My corners are still warped up slightly.

 

[MADShootStuff]

My corners are still warped up slightly.

I tried several different configurations trying to get rid of that with little luck - sounds like it's fine once the bolts are tightened though!

Unrelated question, do you have a link to the converter you're using? I'd like to compare features to the one I have while I communicate with my seller.

 

[Moxley6969]

My corners are still warped up slightly.

GLUE Stick is your friend.

 

[MaltIce]

Have been doing some testing waiting for brackets to come in for my actuators. It seems it is running correctly in AC but cant seem to get her up in running in Iracing.

 

[HugoB]

GLUE Stick is your friend.

My corners actually stuck so well to the PEI sheet of my Prusa that it pulled up the PEI from the metal plate.. There seems to be no stopping of the corners slightly warping up, the force of the shrinking filament with this kind of object is so strong, I would like to see if anybody manages to get prints that are perfectly flat at the base? Maybe a printer enclosure with constant regulated environment temperature would do the trick?

But as soon as you bolt everything together, it is no longer visible, so not that I'd worry about it.

 

[RaceNut]

View attachment 284598
What's everyone's thoughts on it? Would you consider it at least worthwhile to try?

I mounted the shoulder-harness ends to a block that sits under my rear actuator (x3 system) to work as a semi-active harness tensioner. It does work with my D-box but, having only 1.5" of travel is not enough to be very effective. With the SFX100, it should work much better and use of spring tension is a good idea in the event that the belts are too tight from a static starting point. It definitely is a simple and reliable system to implement once a base-plate is available to secure the harness straps under rear the feet.

 

[HugoB]

Exactly Hugo.

View attachment 284639

View attachment 284640

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0087MV...t=&hvlocphy=9045796&hvtargid=pla-561914668042

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMALLRIG-C...7QZ0NX2J5SF&psc=1&refRID=42XZT955C7QZ0NX2J5SF

@Steve D I got that Oculus Sensor mount you told us about, it's brilliant! And the good thing is, it fits directly into my profile slots, so this will be a solid connection hopefully

 

[saxxon66]

Building a printer enclosure was the key for to stop lifting the outer corners of the big parts.
Got some Styropor from a local hardware store, and put it together using some spax screws.
Nice trick I found by watching some 3D printing guys on youtube.
So rising the ambient temperature helped.

 

[sjb266]

@anton_Chez - sorry to hear you’re having such a hard time with the USB.. is your Arduino a genuine version...? Not even sure what to recommend to you.. to not even be able to test everything out must be so frustrating...

How did your actuators go together? All the prints ok? Need much sanding?

 

[Steve D]

@Steve D I got that Oculus Sensor mount you told us about, it's brilliant! And the good thing is, it fits directly into my profile slots, so this will be a solid connection hopefully

Some of the best things come in small packages Hugo!

I added a profile frame behind my monitor to secure the Oculus sensor above it (it's rock solid but leave a little slack on the sensor cable) and to act as a clamping point for my rig-mounted monitor.

"Belt and braces" as we say!

 

[Steve D]

Got everything mounted and connected. Still seems like I'm having massive USB issues. I haven't been able to get motion working in AC yet as a test drive. I've had the actuators go through their start up, and then cool down when pressing Start and Stop. Sometimes, it doesn't even let me stop, it just drops out without me doing anything. Had one time where one rear one was all the way down and the rest were at full tilt! I had to manually sit on the actuators to get them back down to level again. Might have been because I pulled out the USB once it had died and it was just about to return to bottom position.

Tried the powered hub, tried no hub but with the extension cable, tried using a power brick for the Arduino as well. As soon as it's in game it just freezes. You can see the orange light remain solid, this to me shows malfunction. Normally, when you hit Start, the orange light flashes intermittently awaiting a telemetry signal from the game. Half the time just hitting Start gives me the start sequence but immediately solid orange light. Sometimes it flashes as normal but always as soon as in game, solid orange.

I'll have to do come cable swapping tomorrow. Where the box is it's too far from the PC. I don't know what I'm going to do. It worked perfect connected directly to the PC front USB 2.0 port in testing with all 4 motors. Doesn't want to know about it now. I've checked the wiring even though I plan on redoing it but still it is fine. I mean they get power it's just the signal that dies.

Anyway...

I feel your frustration buddy but hang in there.

Try re-flashing the Arduino and make sure the motor controllers are off when you do it.

Try plugging in as few USB devices as possible. If you get success and a stable connection add them back one by one and see if anything triggers it. Suggest downloading USBView, which I found extremely useful to help me balance my USB set up after @Insert Coin kindly recommended it to me. Spread things out as best you can. I'm using a 3.0m USB from my Arduino to a powered hub and it hasn't dropped once.

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/debugger/usbview

Don't overload your powered hub. They are not all equal and the quality of the power adaptor can be important.

Try and keep your USB cables away from the servos / servo cables just in case EMI is causing an issue.

Check your wiring again and also that your servo motor connections are all nipped up tight.

Consider that you might have a duff Arduino! You won't be the first to have that problem.

Good luck!

 

[sebna]

Building a printer enclosure was the key for to stop lifting the outer corners of the big parts.
Got some Styropor from a local hardware store, and put it together using some spax screws.
Nice trick I found by watching some 3D printing guys on youtube.
So rising the ambient temperature helped.

Can you post a photo?

 

[saxxon66]

Can you post a photo?

[FIXED] [But the size of the image seems to large]
Sorry, seems I can not upload images here. Strange?!?
Does this forum not allow any media uploads, or am I missing something?

Does this work for you?
It is a direkt link to the image on my google drive.

Anyway, here is the link to my drive:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nbHN_vZmtpW4cm59g2Bj0OuX8GyaOz7B?usp=sharing

 

[BluePotato00]

Sorry, seems I can not upload images here. Strange?!?
Does this forum not allow any media uploads, or am I missing something?

This is what I do, but there may be a better way:
Upload it to Google photos, click on it to view the photo, right click on the photo and choose "Copy Image Address." Then in the forum post, click the image icon in the toolbar and paste in your image URL.

 

[Requis]

[/QUOTEMore on 3D printing:
Small correction - I printed another slider as suggested in lieu of 1.75 did 1.78 ( THAT DID NOT WORK IN CURA) however when I spoke to Ultimaker for some guidance they told me to reduce the X and Y by which i did by .5 on the scale icon. And that is what worked when I re sliced the file and printed. It now moves freely . Huge thanks to everyone's help!

I'm tackling the motor electronics next and really not looking forward to that bit but will post pics once my adapters come in...Yikes I hope it works out of box, my diagnostics skills are not where they use to be lol.