The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Is there an option for 150mm actuators?.I am wondering if 100mm is enough to follow the road slopes. What is your experience about this, does the pitch match the road slopes or is there a limitation?

This effect is the one i am more exited for,I Would like to get it right.

Excellent point and many people overlook / ignore this point. Makes a huge different for tracks with large elevation suck as Nord and SPA.

I've done extensive trial, the 100mm is "enough" if you manage to place the front and rear close enough, but mounting could be a challenge on some rigs. I would suggest to just go with 150mm so you have more flexibility to place the actuators without compromising the pitch angle. And if you use the Thanos controller, you can always limit the travel if you really need to. SimRacing Studio software even calculate and set the max roll angle for you so your rig doesn't flip.

This explains quite well....

Stroke and Position

Is 1.5 inch really "Good Enough" for Sim Racing? Assuming the front & rear actuators are 1000mm apart, and left & right actuators are 600mm apart.... a 1.5 inch (38mm) system gives you only 4.4° for Pitch and 5.2° for Roll Where as a 100mm system gives you 11.4° for Pitch and 16.9° for Roll...

eracing-lab.com

In this video on the Nord I've max out the 100mm and it's the closest I've ever felt compared to the experience on the real track. I will be upgrading to 150mm during my next rebuild to get a bit more pitch and space to get in/out of the rig.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

ok.Ill go with ver 90.B then.

Thanks

I would recommend to go with Ver. A.
Even with the 90 degree connectors, it still sticks out quite a bit and making it look awkward (both the connector and cable management).

The "pig tail" on the Ver.A, while it's not shielded cable, it really shouldn't be a concern, so long as the extension cables are shielded cable (usually you'll just tie down the pig tail to the actuator / rig) and ground your rig properly. You'll still face EMI issue regardless of Ver A or B if you have grounding issue on your rig. Also try to get a longer cable than the standard 3 meters.

Just my 2 cents! Good luck.

 

[Kieran527]

Excellent point and many people overlook / ignore this point. Makes a huge different for tracks with large elevation suck as Nord and SPA.

I've done extensive trial, the 100mm is "enough" if you manage to place the front and rear close enough, but mounting could be a challenge on some rigs. I would suggest to just go with 150mm so you have more flexibility to place the actuators without compromising the pitch angle. And if you use the Thanos controller, you can always limit the travel if you really need to. SimRacing Studio software even calculate and set the max roll angle for you so your rig doesn't flip.

This explains quite well....

Stroke and Position

Is 1.5 inch really "Good Enough" for Sim Racing? Assuming the front & rear actuators are 1000mm apart, and left & right actuators are 600mm apart.... a 1.5 inch (38mm) system gives you only 4.4° for Pitch and 5.2° for Roll Where as a 100mm system gives you 11.4° for Pitch and 16.9° for Roll...

eracing-lab.com

In this video on the Nord I've max out the 100mm and it's the closest I've ever felt compared to the experience on the real track. I will be upgrading to 150mm during my next rebuild to get a bit more pitch and space to get in/out of the rig.

What are your spacing measurements between the actuators?

 

[DJ_Psymon]

What are your spacing measurements between the actuators?

Front / Rear - 900mm
Left / Right - 750mm

My seating position is very close to the center of the 900mm

 

[Freeon]

Do the servos produce a lot of heat. I have them in an enclosure with about 1 1/2" gap between them. Want to add a fifth one for belt tensioner but would have to put them real close together for them to fit. Will this make them overheat?

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Do the servos produce a lot of heat. I have them in an enclosure with about 1 1/2" gap between them. Want to add a fifth one for belt tensioner but would have to put them real close together for them to fit. Will this make them overheat?

They don't produce much heat at all. I put them pretty much back to back together to squeeze 6 drivers into a standard 6U rack. No issue for me (it's hot weather all-year here, so I race with the air-con switched on all the time).

 

[Mehmet Baran]

Does anyone have aasd15 servo drive schematics ? I fried mine and I will take it to electronic repair station.

 

[Lebois]

Hi all !
Regarding the travel, I can't agree more with what as been said ! You always find tracks with steep angles, think about : Nordschleife, Spa, Laguna Seca, Bathurst... Having the actuators maxed out really ruin the immersion. BTW I worked with this ali seller to design a 150mm kit for Opensfx Actuators.

And I also found a trick to optimize the travel. The idea comes from cubexxx on xsimulator (half of the page). By inverting the linear bearing, you can gain travel.
I went from the original openSFX 123mm travel to 146mm. I draw another linear bearing mount, but the idea is the same :

 

[Luscombe]

I had it set up that way. When I went to checkout I had to input my address and when the drop-down list popped up for countries, the USA was not included.....
I don't know what we did but I apologize!

Just checking in. It has been almost 11 weeks since I ordered the extrusions and I have not received them yet. The order status changed on February 11 to "Completely Delivered". I think that means that the complete order was shipped. Nothing has been delivered and there is no tracking information.

Should I be worried? I think some have said it may take 6 weeks or longer for shipping and that would put it in early April.

I have all the other parts to begin the build but want to have the extrusions in hand before I start 3D printing any components.

 

[eSEA One]

Driver box nearly done. Waiting for a power socket with fuse and the hinges for the Plexiglas door

 

[Luscombe]

Just checking in. It has been almost 11 weeks since I ordered the extrusions and I have not received them yet. The order status changed on February 11 to "Completely Delivered". I think that means that the complete order was shipped. Nothing has been delivered and there is no tracking information.

Should I be worried? I think some have said it may take 6 weeks or longer for shipping and that would put it in early April.

I have all the other parts to begin the build but want to have the extrusions in hand before I start 3D printing any components.

Anyone else having issues with Kinetiks?
I have reached out to them via email, my only source, and they first responded with an update on the order status but no shipping information like tracking number etc. I have repeatedly emailed them in the last month and now they are ghosting me.

I ordered extrusions on January 5 and have not received them and it is now April 3.

Is there an alternative supplier and 3D print profile for the extrusions?

I have every other part for this build except the controller and have been dead in the water since January.

I am normally a patient guy but this is frustrating.

I have opened an official complaint through Paypal. Hopefully, I can get their attention.

 

[DJ_Psymon]

Anyone else having issues with Kinetiks?

I think pretty much everyone who bought from Kinetiks experienced the same issue, except for a few very lucky ones.

 

[Freeon]

Is there an alternative supplier and 3D print profile for the extrusions?

item

www.item24.com

10 100x100 on this page

https://ca-product.item24.com/en/catalogue/products/construction-profiles-10-1001042798/

Alternate STL files and other info available here https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/

 

[Luscombe]

item

www.item24.com

10 100x100 on this page

https://ca-product.item24.com/en/catalogue/products/construction-profiles-10-1001042798/

Alternate STL files and other info available here https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/

Thank you Freeon! I really appreciate the links.

After no acknowledgement, I decided to file a claim with Paypal.
I really didn't mind the wait but just can't accept the lack of communication after a 3-month delay.

 

[Alpixar]

That really has nothing to do with the issues that @anton_Chez is having. The EMI is actually caused by the servos and the wiring. NOT the controller.

I have been running the Arduino configuration for 2 years and 3 months, now trouble free.

I did have some issues in the beginning, but they have all been resolved. Now the SFX runs with controllers together with 4 button boxes, a hand brake, pedals,, AccuForce, GS-5, HE-shifter and a USBD480 from a single USB cable connected to PC.

I provided Anton with some of my solutions, but they did not work for him.

Hello @HoiHman!
I recently finished building the platform and I also face similar problems like anton_Chez. Can you share solutions? I will be grateful.

P.S. Sorry for my English, I use Google translate

 

[HoiHman]

Hello @HoiHman!
I recently finished building the platform and I also face similar problems like anton_Chez. Can you share solutions? I will be grateful.

P.S. Sorry for my English, I use Google translate

The usual stuff:

-HQ usb cables
-Net filter
- Ferrite cores
- Grounding USB devices to your frame
- Grounding servos to your frame

 

[Alpixar]

The usual stuff:
- Grounding servos to your frame

Aren't they already grounded with the wire on the driver?

-Net filter
Which one do you use?

 

[HoiHman]

Sometimes the grounding is not good enough.
Not sure which Net filter i used, it burried somewhere in this thread

A quick tip for new builders: Invest in a impact wrench for the thread inserts:

 

[Insert Coin]

Aren't they already grounded with the wire on the driver?

-Net filter
Which one do you use?

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project.. I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge...

www.racedepartment.com

 

[Alpixar]

[URL Unfurl = "true"] https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...y-motion-simulator-thread.159524/post-3081061 [/ URL]

Thank you! Unfortunately, I cannot buy the Schaffner FN2070. Can I replace it with OMNICOM EMI Filter CW4L2-20A-S or CANNY WELL Power EMI Filter CW4E 20A?