The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Bonjour !
I have been watching loads of forums and tons of YT videos, craving for a motion rig, but always concluded they were out of my reach. And finally came accross the SFX 100.
I see many built it before looking for sponsorship, so I'm not sure how important it is. I am at step #0 (I only have an updated list of providers/prices to make sure I can get everything).
It seems even here not everybody agree on the need for a sponsor... So IS it important (essential) ? It will probably help anyway, so if there any volunteer, that would be fantastic. I am based in France, and speaks French better than any other languages. English should do (I'll probably stumble on tech terms but internet is rich enough). My German is definitely not up for it ; )
Thank you !


There's also an active SFX thread on racingfr https://www.racingfr.net/wbb/index.php?thread/4576-diy-vérins-sfx-100/&pageNo=1
 
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Hey all, haven't touched iRacing in a while so just today came across the expiry issue. I re-downloaded SimFeedback and have run the blocking.bat file but SimFeedback isn't loading. I see the splash screen and then nothing.

Any ideas?
Did you install in the same folder? Also try launching .exe directly from installed folder as apposed to any shortcuts.
 
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Did you install in the same folder? Also try launching .exe directly from installed folder as apposed to any shortcuts.

As its just a zip file I have put them in their own folders like last time. So I have both the old and new folders still. And yep, launching direct from the exe

Frustrating as I can't pay for expert mode as the link is in the program right? And I can't get into the discord without "donating". I have a sponsor.
 
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Can someone please share best rig dimensions for the base please and what about the center of gravity, should it be low as possible or high for the best experience ?

My idea is to be center of gravity to be a little bit high and the rig should be as narrow as possible.

I am all open to hear your ideas. Please share your rig dimensions and feedback.

Thanks.
 
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As its just a zip file I have put them in their own folders like last time. So I have both the old and new folders still. And yep, launching direct from the exe

Frustrating as I can't pay for expert mode as the link is in the program right? And I can't get into the discord without "donating". I have a sponsor.
The reason I asked about location is when I first installed it I put the folder on the "C" drive and it wasn't working. It was a year ago but from memory I think it was doing the same thing as you. If you have a sponsor he might be able to contact owner for how to proceed with donation if you can't open it. Or install on a second PC and if it opens use the link there.
 
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Are you sure you downloaded the latest copy? I reinstalled a older version first and it did the same thing. Only the new version will open after January if the license was not updated before.
 
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The reason I asked about location is when I first installed it I put the folder on the "C" drive and it wasn't working. It was a year ago but from memory I think it was doing the same thing as you. If you have a sponsor he might be able to contact owner for how to proceed with donation if you can't open it. Or install on a second PC and if it opens use the link there.

Weird. Installed it on a different drive to previous install and it worked this time. Should be good from here to get expert mode sorted now.

Cheers for the help fellas
 
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Can someone please share best rig dimensions for the base please and what about the center of gravity, should it be low as possible or high for the best experience ?

My idea is to be center of gravity to be a little bit high and the rig should be as narrow as possible.

I am all open to hear your ideas. Please share your rig dimensions and feedback.

Thanks.
I would like to add another question, which is : can someone share prusa slicer settings for the print please.

Thanks.
 
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Hello all,

I havn't installed my Thanos yet and still run on the arduino.
Strange thing happenend yesterday; a large crack sound, and after stepping out, this was the result..
I think its a failure of the arduino concept, where the actuator doesnt really know where its position actually is..

Printing a new one in ABS with 60% infill atm. Still 12 hours to go...

Any thoughts what might have caused this? It seems like it ran down too far..

voetjestuk1.jpeg
voetjestuk2.jpeg
 
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Hello all,

I havn't installed my Thanos yet and still run on the arduino.
Strange thing happenend yesterday; a large crack sound, and after stepping out, this was the result..
I think its a failure of the arduino concept, where the actuator doesnt really know where its position actually is..

Printing a new one in ABS with 60% infill atm. Still 12 hours to go...

Any thoughts what might have caused this? It seems like it ran down too far..

View attachment 439048View attachment 439049
It's a bit hard to see on your pictures, but it looks like you did not print a lot of outer layers (outline / perimiter shells). It needs to be at least 8 layers wide. See here: https://opensfx.com/3d-printing/#settings
 
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Are you sure you didnt let it drop right down before selecting start?
It looks as thought its over extended. SFB wont let you do this, but if it was in the rest (mid way) position and you started it then it would still try and travel up and could cause this to happen.
 
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None ofit all, they were printed as advised, and it happened in-game, we were racing for about 20 minutes or so. It made a dive to right front for a crash, and extended the actuator, causing a broken bearing plate...


You sure its 8 Perimeters ? Sure looks like less from zooming in...., tho the break could be causing it to look strange.
 
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SFX will pull the actuators in onto the endstops, determining zero, correct?
No. Before you start SimFeedback the rig should be in the lowest position. But that's normally always the case because the weight of your rig will push itself down (by gravity) when you press stop.
This looks like 2 layers to me, not 8:
perimiters.png

2 layers is too weak.
This is what 8 layers looks like:
8 layers.png
 
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My rig is on wheels in order to move it, so in the lowest position, its not on the ground, but few mm above it.

I took a good look, and its correct; its not 8 layers indeed. Our mistake.
Still, the spindle shouldnt have pushed it out, but when it relies on gravity for its zero point, i can imagine why it went wrong...

Time to install the thanos controller, which actually does take a reference run to zero before start....
 
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My rig is on wheels in order to move it, so in the lowest position, its not on the ground, but few mm above it.

I took a good look, and its correct; its not 8 layers indeed. Our mistake.
Still, the spindle shouldnt have pushed it out, but when it relies on gravity for its zero point, i can imagine why it went wrong...

Time to install the thanos controller, which actually does take a reference run to zero before start....

Your prints will fail regardless of what controller you are using. They are just not strong enough to handle the load during heaving motion.

A good 3d printed block will make the servos cut out on torque overload without damaging them (except when the slider hits them at high speeds)
 
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