The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[diablo2112]

Everything is negotiable, I've seen the 3d printed parts sold for $350 , safe to say a few hundred more to have convenience and immediately is worth it to some.

Fine by me, and good luck. It's certainly helpful to have many of the parts already sourced and in-hand.

 

[Gomez Sim Industries]

Thanks. Already have had several people inquire within 10 minutes of my posting. Surprised actually.

 

[Michal Burisin]

I'm building rack with servo controllers like this:

I will be using 3xSFX shield, can I place them in the rack or should I place the Arduinos as far as possible from all the power lines / controllers?

I have 1 m long data cables, so probably most far I could get is on top of the rack.

However I would prefer to keep it inside rack, but I'm not sure if it wouldn't add to EMI issues lot of people are having (especially with VR).

 

[UncleGit]

I'm only running 4 controllers - but so far no issues with having the shield inside the box of zappy potential death.

One thing of note is I'm using an active USB extension to connect to my PC since the length limits to the passive extension was too short for the run I need.

 

[Gomez Sim Industries]

Might want to put this in the marketplace. And be prepared for folks that don't want you selling anything related to this project. $300 for extrusions, $350 for ball screws, parts, and hardware. $50 for shield/arduino. $150 for the transformer and misc. That's ~$850. That leaves ~$850 you're charging for the 3D printed parts. I'm putting my popcorn in the microwave now...

Wow I got 5 offers within 1 hour! Sold at FULL price! Popcorn for dinner! lol ;-)

 

[diablo2112]

Wow I got 5 offers within 1 hour! Sold at FULL price! Popcorn for dinner! lol ;-)

Congratulations! Perhaps the community isn't nearly as hung-up on the idea that other enthusiasts can sell parts and partially-assembled SFX-100 kits, and at whatever price the buyer and seller agree on. If so, that's quite the change from the past few weeks and months.

 

[Ringorian]

@diablo2112 If Someone sells his own, one time , is different than offering them in kits for Sale . Nothing changed ..
The community just decides with there behaviour if other DIY Projects are being released that style or if they stay where they are .. somewhere in the basement , used by 3-4 people .. seen this in other not simracing related DIY projects before ...
Its DIY not I do it for you

 

[BluePotato00]

Wow I got 5 offers within 1 hour! Sold at FULL price! Popcorn for dinner! lol ;-)

If a partial kit can sell for $1,700 (and probably more given the quantity of interested buyers he had), I am even more appreciative of @saxxon66 and the team for having not commercialized this. It would have made my dream motion rig much more expensive than it was. The SFX-100 team has an opportunity to earn some decent profits here and instead they share the plans and let us build it ourselves at a lower cost!
Thank you!

 

[anton_Chez]

It's not all roses, though. A commercial venture would involve start up costs, liability, overheads, significant time and financial investment, red tape, etc etc, and SOMEONE would have to be responsible for THAT coil whine.

It's all relative. It might not have been nearly as successful as it was had it been pursued as a business. There's always two sides to it. It still would have been a compelling product but everything is easy when there are no consequences, responsibility and investment for something to get off the ground. I've been training for nearly 20 years, and could probably coach people on the side here and there for a couple of bucks for my time. If I had to leave my job / sell my current business and venture off on my own into something that was once a hobby, it becomes A LOT more complicated.

But fully understand your point, nonetheless.

 

[GFJunky]

Yeah pretty sure the EMI/EMC issues would require some serious work if a company wanted to sell it as a product that meets EU regulations. I'm amazed companies get away with selling Simucube based wheels as well!

 

[papasqueeze]

Hi all

Im new to the forum

I've been looking around for motion rigs for a while and stumbled across this project

Is it ok to post questions about hardware here?

Mainly be about the electrical side as I'm noob with circuits and stuff, the build side I'm ok with just would need advice along the way

Is anyone based near Sheffield UK who has made this project so I could maybe see a working rig

Tia

 

[Prototype_]

DRAFT 3 REVISION

Form factor now much more compact as a result of lowering the entire system.
I think this is getting close.

 

[ThugUK]

I approve
Mine is 1500mm long, where yours is 1400mm.
What this means is that I put my rear actuators further back getting 1000mm between front and rear (yours are 890mm).
This also means my weight is more central (more equal between front and rear) and there is no chance of hitting elbows on the rears.

 

[Prototype_]

@ThugUK Nice setup !
---------------------

So, chaps, if Im understanding correctly:

---------------------
1. The IDEAL is to have the H-point dead center between the actuators.
2. Its ALSO important to get the actuators into as SQUARE a configuration as possible.
---------------------

So I guess nobody has done this :-D as its kinda impractical to have a super wide rig. Or has somebody?
And if you pulled the actuators into a smaller square confg, they will start getting in the way.

In the case of my current design, (the width of the rig is 700mm), so moving the front actuators and rear actuators into a 700 x 700 mm config would most likely interfere with the steering setup. So that not feasible.

By making the rig 890mm wide, (890 x 890 mm) that would probably be a better situation, but then the rig becomes kinda wide. But not too bad? Might be worth exploring?
Still, it wouldn't be easy to get the H-Point centered as the front actuators would have to move backwards closer to the driver.

Just spitballing here ... trying to understand what the ideal is ...

 

[ThugUK]

The best thing to do is set up your rig with EVERYTHING on except your actuators. Place it onto a broom shank and sit in it. Get a friend to roll it on the broom shank until perfectly balanced. Then use that as the central point for your actuators.

In the real world your design will work just fine as it is and there is no need at all to do this.

However I did notice a difference when I was better balanced, although someone else may not.

Don’t over think it, but do listen to other people as it may save you a little time/money.

 

[diablo2112]

This looks really, really nice. Great job and additions. My one suggestion is consider a triangular brace - 40x40mm from the front edge of the wheel deck down to the front left and right corners. I did this on my rig, and it substantially improves the rigidity of the wheel deck. Here's a pic, to illustrate. Great job again.

 

[Prototype_]

@diablo2112 Oh I like that! Yeah definitely will add that in. Thanks!

 

[diablo2112]

Perhaps one last suggestion. Your monitor is mounted fairly far forward. I find I like it mounted as close to my wheel as I can get it. This improves your peripheral vision with an ultrawide, and looks super. Again, here's a few pics to show how close you can get the monitor. The limiting factor is enough room for your hands/knuckles so they don't rub the screen.

 

[C64]

The best thing to do is set up your rig with EVERYTHING on except your actuators. Place it onto a broom shank and sit in it. Get a friend to roll it on the broom shank until perfectly balanced. Then use that as the central point for your actuators.

In the real world your design will work just fine as it is and there is no need at all to do this.

However I did notice a difference when I was better balanced, although someone else may not.

Don’t over think it, but do listen to other people as it may save you a little time/money.

I don’t think you need to get the c of g in the middle of the actuators, it just has to be within the 4 actuators... which it is bound to be. Because the rig only moves vertically, longitudinal c of g is irrelevant and will have no effect on its operation.

 

[ThugUK]

I don’t think you need to get the c of g in the middle of the actuators, it just has to be within the 4 actuators... which it is bound to be. Because the rig only moves vertically, longitudinal c of g is irrelevant and will have no effect on its operation.

Hence me saying 'in the real world your design will work just fine as it is'.
I know its not the type of mover that requires balancing (like the DOFreality) but by balancing it out it will put equal amounts of stress on each actuator. Whether this will make a difference is open to debate.
Before I moved everything forward I was conscious that my rears were carrying more weight than the front (could this effect the speed if they are working harder, who knows), and when I moved things forward I 'felt' as though it worked better (although this could very well be a placebo effect).