• Welcome to the largest (sim) racing website in the world!
    Blurring the line between real and virtual motorsports.

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by sjb266, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. Jonathan Ng

    Jonathan Ng

    Messages:
    2
    Ratings:
    +0
    It wouldn't surprise me, I was having a bunch of electrical issues until I put it behind a UPS.
     
  2. Prototype_

    Prototype_

    Messages:
    37
    Ratings:
    +61
    Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the feedback.
     
  3. niko911

    niko911

    Messages:
    37
    Ratings:
    +4
    Can you by any chance take some pictures how yours mounting solution looks like with that widescreen?
    Also going to mount mine and any advice would be appriciated. Thanks.
     
  4. dedraro

    dedraro

    Messages:
    113
    Ratings:
    +110
  5. metalnwood

    metalnwood

    Messages:
    191
    Ratings:
    +113
  6. dedraro

    dedraro

    Messages:
    113
    Ratings:
    +110
  7. saxxon66

    saxxon66
    Micha Premium

    Messages:
    148
    Ratings:
    +207
    You have 32 and 64 bit mixed (x86 = 32bit, x64 = 64bit).
    Bin64 in rFactor 2 is 64bit, so just copy the plugin from x64.
    Sometimes it can be quite tricky.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. diablo2112

    diablo2112
    Premium

    Messages:
    160
    Ratings:
    +176
    Here you go.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
    • Like Like x 2
  9. dedraro

    dedraro

    Messages:
    113
    Ratings:
    +110
    Yes exactly! I had mixed the 32bi and 64bit. Thanks a lot, now works great :D
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. Prototype_

    Prototype_

    Messages:
    37
    Ratings:
    +61
    • Love Love x 1
  11. diablo2112

    diablo2112
    Premium

    Messages:
    160
    Ratings:
    +176
    Looks really nice. You might want to consider mounting the front actuators closer to your seat. The more you can place the actuators into a “square” arrangement, the more symmetrical your forces will be, not to mention you get a wider range of pitch/surge with more closely spaced front-to-rear mounting. Also, the wheel seems a bit high to me? Really nice work here, good job.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. ThugUK

    ThugUK

    Messages:
    477
    Ratings:
    +223
    Looks good, but the wheel looks a little too straight on.
    Take a seat in your own car (or anyones) and take a look at the pitch of the steering wheel.
    In fact go one better still and use a spirit level to work it out and set your to the same (or similar).
    I had mine straight on and it didn't feel natural/comfortable at all until I moved it.

    As diablo2112 also said, move your front actuators in so the distance between them (centre to centre) is around 100cm.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. C64

    C64

    Messages:
    205
    Ratings:
    +150
    Nice drawings !

    I have annotated a drawing with some comments. Getting your seating position s low as practical relative to the actuators will help a lot with feeling "in" the car rather than "on top" of it.

    Other comments are suggestions that will significantly reduce flexing in your rig, especially on the wheel mount / monitor mount.

    If you are getting your 100x100 from ITEM then worth getting them to quote on tapping the holes - saves the cost of a tap and a tedious job.

    rig design comments.png
     
    • Beer Beer x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Prototype_

    Prototype_

    Messages:
    37
    Ratings:
    +61
    Thanks for the feedback gentlemen!

    SQUARE FORMAT: That makes total sense. Thanks for the info on that. +1
    Thanks @diablo2112

    Yeah, the Fanatec motor mount arms that I intend to use have a fair amount of adjustability, including pitch angle. However, after you mentioned this, I realized that I hadn't included enough space to mount the DD low enough to angle it up. So good catch there! Thanks @ThugUK

    Some great points there!
    I only just saw this now, after doing a revision ... :-D
    Ill implement the changes you suggest and post up a bit later ...

    - Front and Rear cross frames: Yup that makes good sense - will do that.

    - Verticals end on - Sure - actually had it like that earlier, but changed it for cosmetic reasons - Ive got angle brackets on the insides - you dont think thats enough? Perhaps not.
    This really is a critical area - so making sure this is solid is a priority.
    EDIT> I placed the Actuators in this position which will effectively do the same thing.
    Two birds with one stone! :)

    - Mount Actuators as low as possible - Ive got 2x 40x40 mm angle brackets top and bottom of the actuators. I can move the actuators down another 40mm if I put the brackets on the sides, making them visible (again - this was a cosmetic consideration). You think the 40mm will make a difference in feel? Functionality all round is obviously a higher priority all round.

    Cross member below wheel: I was thinking the motor and the motor mounts would act as a structural member, eliminating the need for the cross bar - as the geometry is boxed with motor etc ... ?

    Seat position: See below H-point ergonomics - Ill look into it and see if I can get the whole system lower ...
    ....

    Again thanks for the feedback guys, hugely appreciated ...
    Heres an update, next one will include @C64 's suggestions.
    Any more feedback is hugely appreciated!

    [​IMG]
    https://www.skoda-motorsport.com/en/drive-like-pro-sitting-like-racing-driver/


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
    • Like Like x 3
  15. Prototype_

    Prototype_

    Messages:
    37
    Ratings:
    +61
    So guys, if I drop the entire seat/wheel/pedal assembly lower ... what is a safe ground clearance needed? So that you're not bottoming out :)
     
  16. C64

    C64

    Messages:
    205
    Ratings:
    +150
    Looking good :)

    Attaching uprights to the actuators will work very nicely.

    Yous should be able get the bottom of the 100x100 section level with the underside of your rig frame, when you test your rig you can make it do full pitch forward and check that the front does not hit anything. Looking at your setup I would say you will have enough clearance.

    As for a crossmember under/above the DD wheelbase - it depends how well the wheel base brackets tie it together but I suspect you will be more than ok without it now that the uprights are tied to the actuators... so I would only put the crossmember in if you have any significant wobble side to side when you get the rig running.

    80/20 rigs are square frame structures so to make them stiff ( stop them lozenging ) you have to make the corners connections as ridgid as possible... especially the four corner of the base and the uprights for mounting the wheel.

    It's good that you have got the rear actuators well behind the seat, it moves your seating position more between the actuators... which is good for how the motion "feels".
     
    • Like Like x 1
  17. ThugUK

    ThugUK

    Messages:
    477
    Ratings:
    +223
    Something else you could do to make the steering vertical section stiffer is to fasten your front actuators to it.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. GomezRacing

    GomezRacing

    Messages:
    6
    Ratings:
    +0
    Guys I've moved and no longer can have the SFX 100 in the house. I've printed, sourced and built everything but the motors. I've also bought the Ardunio shield breakout board for easy connection. I have everything ready to go including ALL the 3d prints for the entire build. All you need to buy is the servos and you can plug and play. I'm offering all this at $1700. I've spent months on this so this is a big time saver for someone. Here is a gallery I made .... https://www.altshiftsupply.com/sfx100

    Email - joseg3@mac.com for more details
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
  19. diablo2112

    diablo2112
    Premium

    Messages:
    160
    Ratings:
    +176

    Might want to put this in the marketplace. And be prepared for folks that don't want you selling anything related to this project. $300 for extrusions, $350 for ball screws, parts, and hardware. $50 for shield/arduino. $150 for the transformer and misc. That's ~$850. That leaves ~$850 you're charging for the 3D printed parts. I'm putting my popcorn in the microwave now...
     
    • Beer Beer x 1
  20. GomezRacing

    GomezRacing

    Messages:
    6
    Ratings:
    +0
    Everything is negotiable, I've seen the 3d printed parts sold for $350 , safe to say a few hundred more to have convenience and immediately is worth it to some.
     
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.