The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Black_rat

75RPM
Premium
Hi all

Im new to the forum

I've been looking around for motion rigs for a while and stumbled across this project

Is it ok to post questions about hardware here?

Mainly be about the electrical side as I'm noob with circuits and stuff, the build side I'm ok with just would need advice along the way

Is anyone based near Sheffield UK who has made this project so I could maybe see a working rig

Tia
Not near Sheffield, way down in Berkshire, for the electrics there are two sides, one is connecting the system to your computer, someone came up with a superb board to take all the hassle out. I see you have already approached C64 ;) the other is connecting to the mains, its relatively straight forward with a couple of approaches open to you.

TBH I found learning the art of 3D printing the hardest :) but glad I did I am printing out so many useful things now and other not so useful but interesting.

If you haven't found it there is a website with guides https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Cheers

Mark
 
Not near Sheffield, way down in Berkshire, for the electrics there are two sides, one is connecting the system to your computer, someone came up with a superb board to take all the hassle out. I see you have already approached C64 ;) the other is connecting to the mains, its relatively straight forward with a couple of approaches open to you.

TBH I found learning the art of 3D printing the hardest :) but glad I did I am printing out so many useful things now and other not so useful but interesting.

If you haven't found it there is a website with guides https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Cheers

Mark
I've gone and ordered some circuit boards and components to make the board, so I'll have some spare lol,

Made accounts at all the relevant places and priced up parts just waiting on quote from ITEM
but next Will be the 3d printing if I can get the hang of that then I can't see the rest being trouble
 

Black_rat

75RPM
Premium
Good luck on your build, if you are planning on donating for the software you get access to a discord channel dedicated to the project with lots of info and help as part of expert mode. I found it invaluable for the 3D printing part.

Of course you can also post here, my thoughts were I wanted to help further software development, show my appreciation and also get expert mode :) so I donated right at the beginning.
 

C64

100RPM
@ThugUK Nice setup !
---------------------

So, chaps, if Im understanding correctly:

---------------------
1. The IDEAL is to have the H-point dead center between the actuators.
2. Its ALSO important to get the actuators into as SQUARE a configuration as possible.

---------------------

So I guess nobody has done this :-D as its kinda impractical to have a super wide rig. Or has somebody?
And if you pulled the actuators into a smaller square confg, they will start getting in the way.



In the case of my current design, (the width of the rig is 700mm), so moving the front actuators and rear actuators into a 700 x 700 mm config would most likely interfere with the steering setup. So that not feasible.

By making the rig 890mm wide, (890 x 890 mm) that would probably be a better situation, but then the rig becomes kinda wide. But not too bad? Might be worth exploring?
Still, it wouldn't be easy to get the H-Point centered as the front actuators would have to move backwards closer to the driver.

Just spitballing here ... trying to understand what the ideal is ...
making the rig 890mm wide does seem excessive, as fr as I know most rigs that have been built are approx. 700mm between actuator centres side to side... and somewhere around 100cm +/- 10cm front to back. I would not get hung up on trying to make them a square configuration, better to leave it at 700mm wide and maybe extend the back actuators out by approx. another 10cm so it moves the "H" point more forwards. I am considering "adjusting" my rig to move my actuators further back ( my "H" point further forward )... but it will ake a good few hours of unbolting / bolting and a small reworking of how I mount my pedals.
 
Hi just had my quote from item for the extrusion pieces
Didn't realize that there not far from me

Has many built using this profile or is it better using the original German stuff

Looks better as you don't have to Heli coil and can just tap
 

C64

100RPM
@ThugUK Nice setup !
---------------------

So, chaps, if Im understanding correctly:

---------------------
1. The IDEAL is to have the H-point dead center between the actuators.
2. Its ALSO important to get the actuators into as SQUARE a configuration as possible.

---------------------

So I guess nobody has done this :-D as its kinda impractical to have a super wide rig. Or has somebody?
And if you pulled the actuators into a smaller square confg, they will start getting in the way.



In the case of my current design, (the width of the rig is 700mm), so moving the front actuators and rear actuators into a 700 x 700 mm config would most likely interfere with the steering setup. So that not feasible.

By making the rig 890mm wide, (890 x 890 mm) that would probably be a better situation, but then the rig becomes kinda wide. But not too bad? Might be worth exploring?
Still, it wouldn't be easy to get the H-Point centered as the front actuators would have to move backwards closer to the driver.

Just spitballing here ... trying to understand what the ideal is ...
making the rig 890mm wide does seem excessive, as fr as I know most rigs that have been built are approx. 700mm between actuator centres side to side... and somewhere around 100cm +/- 10cm front to back. I would not get hung up on trying to make them a square configuration, better to leave it at 700mm wide and maybe extend the back actuators out by approx. another 10cm so it moves the "H" point more forwards. I am considering "adjusting" my rig to move my actuators further back ( my "H" point further forward )... but it will ake a good few hours of unbolting / bolting and a small reworking of how I mount my pedals.
Hi just had my quote from item for the extrusion pieces
Didn't realize that there not far from me

Has many built using this profile or is it better using the original German stuff

Looks better as you don't have to Heli coil and can just tap
I have had a single ITEM actuator running for 6 months, it works the same as kinetik, the only differences are the 3D prints... and those are really minor.
 

Insert Coin

500RPM
I have turned the helicoil inserts into my profiles by hand. My battery powered drill wasn't strong enough. I used a long bit extender and a 1/4 inch Allen hex key (a 6 mm hex key doesn't fit, nor does a 7 mm).
Use spirit ('spiritus', the cheap 'blue alcohol', well ethanol actually) as cutting oil, this works really well. Soak the helicoils with it and also put it into the hole of the profile.
Put the helicoil onto the long bit extender and slide it into the aluminium profile, this way the helicoil will always go in straight. Put the allen key onto the bit extender and start turning. You do not have reverse turning, just keep going. My 32 inserts were turned in within an hour.
Use gloves or you will hurt your hands.
1.jpg

2.jpg

Image1.jpg
 
a few newbie questions

I stumbled across this as looking at sim rigs and this is awesome, and having looked at the sfx100 pages and here, lots to take in, and looking a the last few pages here, guys your work is truly stunning - so a few basic questions - whats the best option on the 3d printer front as there seems to be a few choices and varied cost ? what has worked well in peoples experience, with minimal agro ? I know it can be a learning curve with them. On the main rig, really impressed with @Prototype_ design, however I was considering something like the simlab p1 or gt1 and then adding the actuators at a later date so I can get going and move off my playseat which is just no good for me - any thoughts on that - will I run in to issues - any good suppliers in the UK or should I just hit up the ones in Germany and on the list ? my plan would be to get the printer and get printing whilst waiting for stuff to arrive, as the lead times look long, planning to share my experiences as well to benefit others, and help a friend build one in due course. thanks in advance,
 

Pucis666

10RPM
I am new to this myself, I got ender 3 pro, and am now printing the parts, word of advice, make sure You calibrate everything and print 20x20mm cube and make sure it is to size. Received my profiles from Kinetik yesterday, and the slider I printed fits perfect. Basically its ok to get printer first and print some stuff to get familiar with it
 
I am new to this myself, I got ender 3 pro, and am now printing the parts, word of advice, make sure You calibrate everything and print 20x20mm cube and make sure it is to size. Received my profiles from Kinetik yesterday, and the slider I printed fits perfect. Basically its ok to get printer first and print some stuff to get familiar with it
thanks thats helpful, and ender pro is within my price range
 
I might have some spare boards soon as I've had to order five, will need bits soldering on, just have to see how many I wreck first lol
 

Pucis666

10RPM
Here is my shopping list spreadsheet from the UK, all worked out okay for me back in the Spring, will give you a start. As far as Printers, I went with a CR10s so same company as the Ender series, only for the larger bed as I like gadgets :)

The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread
Thanks for your list, I am following it myself, the only confusion is that Arduino Leonardo, they are different, the one in your link is ok?
 

C64

100RPM
I have some built up sfx100 shield boards ( supplied by pyronious ). I’m based in the uk, £17.50 including posting within the uk. PM me if you are interested.
 
DRAFT 3 REVISION

Form factor now much more compact as a result of lowering the entire system.
I think this is getting close.
I think this looks great! Do you have a mechanism for the seat back/forth adjustment sourced already? It would be great if you can make a "Bill of materials" available for this design, it would be easy to order the aluminum extrusions already cut to measure. Are you planning to do that when you have finalised the design?
 
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