Buri's Rig

Did some more driving in PC2 and think I'm close to finding a good setting in SSW.

Road Bumps
  • gain 24% (will probably go lower since I did get a couple piston pangs at Spa)
  • threshold 45
Road Surface
  • gain 65%
  • threshold 0
Bumpy Terrain/Kerbs
  • gain 48%
I'm reporting on the above from memory but the numbers should be pretty close. What I found last night is that the PC specific setting of Bumpy Terrain/Kerbs is the key. Those are getting sent to my LFE and because they are low impact, I can really bump up the gain without causing piston pang. Now when I go over kerbs I'm getting awesome feedback from my LFE. I have to say, PC2 is feeling quite nice!
Thanks, will definitely try out your settings! I found out, I had wrong hold / release values in amps setting, so that might have been causing delays, I will try it out. I don't know how the settings 200 and 400 ms got there, as I can't remember messing with these settings as I don't know what they mean yet :)

Effect for Bumpy Terrain / Kerbs in PC2 is great as they pick up more - maybe even more than what should be there - for example some curbs on Spa, which are just drawn on road with paint, and are not getting much feedback in telemetry - but it gets picked up by this effect :)

Shared memory in PC2 has these:

TERRAIN_ROAD = 0,
TERRAIN_LOW_GRIP_ROAD,
TERRAIN_BUMPY_ROAD1,
TERRAIN_BUMPY_ROAD2,
TERRAIN_BUMPY_ROAD3,
TERRAIN_MARBLES,
TERRAIN_GRASSY_BERMS,
TERRAIN_GRASS,
TERRAIN_GRAVEL,
TERRAIN_BUMPY_GRAVEL,
TERRAIN_RUMBLE_STRIPS,
TERRAIN_DRAINS,
TERRAIN_TYREWALLS,
TERRAIN_CEMENTWALLS,
TERRAIN_GUARDRAILS,
TERRAIN_SAND,
TERRAIN_BUMPY_SAND,
TERRAIN_DIRT,
TERRAIN_BUMPY_DIRT,
TERRAIN_DIRT_ROAD,
TERRAIN_BUMPY_DIRT_ROAD,
TERRAIN_PAVEMENT,
TERRAIN_DIRT_BANK,
TERRAIN_WOOD,
TERRAIN_DRY_VERGE,
TERRAIN_EXIT_RUMBLE_STRIPS,
TERRAIN_GRASSCRETE,
TERRAIN_LONG_GRASS,
TERRAIN_SLOPE_GRASS,
TERRAIN_COBBLES,
TERRAIN_SAND_ROAD,
TERRAIN_BAKED_CLAY,
TERRAIN_ASTROTURF,
TERRAIN_SNOWHALF,
TERRAIN_SNOWFULL,
TERRAIN_DAMAGED_ROAD1,
TERRAIN_TRAIN_TRACK_ROAD,
TERRAIN_BUMPYCOBBLES,
TERRAIN_ARIES_ONLY,
TERRAIN_ORION_ONLY,
TERRAIN_B1RUMBLES,
TERRAIN_B2RUMBLES,
TERRAIN_ROUGH_SAND_MEDIUM,
TERRAIN_ROUGH_SAND_HEAVY,
TERRAIN_SNOWWALLS,
TERRAIN_ICE_ROAD,
TERRAIN_RUNOFF_ROAD,
TERRAIN_ILLEGAL_STRIP,

So it's great SSW is taking advantage of this.

I will do more testing with SSW bumps to see if I will have same problems with pang as you. As I'm now mixing SimVibe and SSW I'm getting really amazing response so far, especially with this specific SSW setting for bumps in PC2 and rest of the bumps in SimVibe :)

I found great testing track for bumps to be California Highway - you can see the bumps ahead you and they are big. Also runing on kerbs on Azure Coast, I can feel 4 wheels jumping on kerb separately, really awesome feeling :)
 
So long time no update, I have been taking it slowly over the summer.

But at last I finished the tactile project part! Here's the update:

P9020007.jpg


Firstly I had to start with cable managment, getting the rig from the main platform is not easy and it requires lot of work, so I tried to think about everything, so I don't have to expand / rework it any time soon.

I have made through holes 3 big holes in the board to be able easily run USB, power etc. on the underside, I would like to keep the top of the board as clean as possible.

The small channel from left to right accommodates cables for wind.

P9020009.jpg


Details on back tactile connectors, these are hand made, two aluminium profiles are keeping SpeakOn connectors tightly in place.

P9020013.jpg


P9020017.jpg


P9020018.jpg


P9020020.jpg


I have added more channels for cables running to the back if I ever wanted to add more tactile units. I have now 2 BK Advance lying around as I have upgraded them to BK Concerts.

This is final state of the underside of the board.
 
Now for the new aluminium Kirkey seat. I have got this one. It took me a long time to figure out, how to attach it to the rig and all the tactile units to it.

At the end, I went for long L steel profiles. With steel O profiles for attaching tactile, shifter and handbrake to it.

P9110022.jpg


P9110024.jpg


The stripe of aluminium from left to right is there to reinforce it and help with tactile transfer from TST which will be attached to it.

P9110026.jpg


Notice completely redesigned handle for moving the seat. I needed it to make it strong so it doesn't vibrate and it was neccessary to make space in the center to allow for big BK Concert under the seat to move freely.
 
Functionally this hardware tactile part of the project is done for me now. I will be working on the looks - aluminium plates to put seat buttkickers on. Also I will spray paint the whole back section, but I will do this once I have it completely done - this includes harness tensioner and g-seat I have in the works now.

It's absolutely amazing what the aluminium seat have done to clarity and strength of the tactile feedback.

Before I was struggling to get enough power, now I had to tone it down a bit, because it can be too much now :) At least I have some headroom for those really big bumps and times when you run on grass etc. and I still don't bottom out most of the time :)

I got rid of that annoying hum from higher frequencies I was getting before from old acrylic seat. Now the overall levels of noise coming from tactile came down like 50% compared to the old seat while strength and clarity have gone up by 100%, it's really amazing. The seat is comfortable and the fabric on it is great. Not as comfy as R-Seat Alcantara I must admit, but I had happily sacrificed this little bit of extra comfort for better tactile.

On the back I have 50 kg vibration mounts, I will try to go even softer to 43 kg and see what's better. I think it will be even better. As I have offset the pivot point of the seat using long profiles, I don't get that extra movement when pressing on the pedals, now it's super solid.

Regarding software, I'm running SimVibe as main soft with additional SSW for some g-force effects. It's working great so far, I'm running pretty basic effects for now, I need to spend more time on more complex effects in the future.

Mixing these 2 softs really works great and I cannot recommend it enough, you get best of both worlds.

SimVibe handles engine, shift, bumps and damage.

SSW handles braking, accelerating and lateral g-forces and wheel slip and additional bumps in Project Cars 2 for specific surfaces.

Only trouble I have now is that my second cound card for SSW outputs rear signal really weak SoundBlaster X-Fi Pro so I don't get almost any feedback from L / R transducers on the seat, but I hope once I use some regular and not USB soundcard, it will be alright.

Here's the rack:

P9160043.jpg


And some other images:

P9160044.jpg

P9160045.jpg
 
As I have tried VR at friend, I don't have any interest to race on flat screens anymore so I'm waiting for high FOV VR headsets and then I'll get new PC to run it.

Right now I have just notebook with 1060 graphic card and 24'' screen which kind of sucks, but I don't want to spend money on upgrade to TV right and I'll rather wait for proper VR.

I tried Oculus Rift, the VR is really great, felt completely natural as opposed to flat screen racing when I'm just making estimates on when to turn on previous experience while in VR it's just intuitive as you have much better depth perception. On Oculus rift the SDE killed it for me, hopefully Pimax 8K will be available soon next year.

In the meantime I'll continue working on the rig.

P9160047.jpg


Here is coils mod for SeaFlo blowers. I had some problems with power supply and MotoMonster so I'm waiting for new MM to arrive to hopefully finish this project soon.

Here I got big servo for seat belt tensioner:

P9160048.jpg


And linear prismatic railing to guide movement of the seat belt with use of bowdens.

P9160049.jpg


I'm also working on the g-seat so lot of things to do till next year :)
 
So I finally have dedicated space for rig, so no need to move it from place to place.

PA130057.jpg


It's temporary solution, once I have normal PC (running from laptop now), I will clean it up and I will aslo probably soundproof this corner with professional materials.

Then I started G-Seat project I had in my mind for couple of months now, see here. :)
 

Hiro Abe

250RPM
Premium
I would like to get the same kind of isolators you are using. They are rather pricey here in the States so I want to be sure I get ones sufficiently rated. If I understand correctly, the ones you are using for your seat are rated at 50kg per? Is that right?
 
I would like to get the same kind of isolators you are using. They are rather pricey here in the States so I want to be sure I get ones sufficiently rated. If I understand correctly, the ones you are using for your seat are rated at 50kg per? Is that right?
Yeah they weren't cheap in Europe too, I took them from UK, but I don't regret it. I have 50 kg versions. These are quite normal size, the stronger versions are ridiculously high 43 mm vs 78 mm, see table here.

For me 4 of these are fine (I weight around 65 - 70 kg). It was good also for my brother who is around 80 - 85 kg, so it should be fine up to 100 kg maybe little more :) If you would need to stiffen it up, I would personally add another pair for total of 6 isolators than going for the higher rated ones which are tall.

Also I think it's necessary to have the back isolators offset to the back like I do to prevent rotation of the seat when pressing the pedals.

upload_2018-10-15_18-56-48.png


My offset is around 15 cm from the outer edge of the seat to the center of the isolator. When I didn't have this offset, I could feel the seat rotating when pressing hard on hydrauilc pedals.
 
I was reworking handbrake this weekend, detail are in separate thread here if anyone is interested in cheap DYI handbrake, check it out. :)

I finished reworking of seat attachment and attachment of accessories to it necessary for G-Seat project.

I also installed Seaflos for wind. Still need to finish box with power supply and cabling, I got Arduino + MotoMonster ready, I hope I'll manage to do it during work week.

PA210089.jpg
 
Received some aluminium plates cut to size.

upload_2018-10-24_1-29-48.png


See the one with hole in it? Buttkicker should be on top of it :) They messed up the scale, it's 10 times smaller.

Good company, they accepted the mistake without hassle and they will try again :)
 

callumjtc

250RPM
All this effort and realism running a thrustmaster! DD wheel must be in the back of your mind no? ;) Awesome work can't wait to see it all up and running!
 
All this effort and realism running a thrustmaster! DD wheel must be in the back of your mind no? ;) Awesome work can't wait to see it all up and running!
Yeah, it's in queue :), I want to wait for Fanatec reviews and decide then :) I would really like to cut the cord the OSW requires (maybe bluetooth buttonbox, but haven't seen many of those). I like to drive road cars with bigger steering range and also rally so I think the cord would get in the way.

Also need to gather some finances, this project is much more financially exhausting than I originally thought, but hobbies are never cheap :)
 
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callumjtc

250RPM
Yeah, it's in queue :), I want to wait for Fanatec reviews and decide then :) I would really like to cut the cord the OSW requires (maybe bluetooth buttonbox, but haven't seen many of those). I like to drive road cars with bigger steering range and also rally so I think the cord would get in the way.

Also need to gather some finances, this project is much more financially exhausting than I originally thought, but hobbies are never cheap :)
Tell me about it, my pedals are costing me big :cry: I dream of an OSW that is Simucube based, possibly DIY, however my G27 is still going strong so cannot justify it yet.
 
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