The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[saxxon66]

Does anyone already use TL? What type of actuator? @saxxon66 will this fold-back actuator (with belt) do the job or should we be building a geared slider or such?

I would not recommend to use a fold-back/push-rod design for push/pull. Instead look for something with a FK and FF bearing. It's easy to setup and install and will be your best bet for push/pull (have a look at the cnc guys) because there is no weak point in the construction.
You can easily build one on your own using of the shelf parts or get an preassembled one.

DIY can be much easier because you do not need any rails, just the motor mount, coupler, spindle and the FK and FF blocks. There are also some using profiles, you can mount directly to you 8020 rig.



Only for example
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Baukastensystem-Easy-Mechatronics-Linearachse-CNC

https://de.aliexpress.com/store/pro...09.html?spm=a2g0x.12010108.0.0.497a7f0c7Uccks

 

[Specialist68]

I would not recommend to use a fold-back/push-rod design for push/pull. Instead look for something with a FK and FF bearing. It's easy to setup and install and will be your best bet for push/pull (have a look at the cnc guys) because there is no weak point in the construction.
You can easily build one on your own using of the shelf parts or get an preassembled one.

DIY can be much easier because you do not need any rails, just the motor mount, coupler, spindle and the FK and FF blocks. There are also some using profiles, you can mount directly to you 8020 rig.



Only for example
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Baukastensystem-Easy-Mechatronics-Linearachse-CNC

https://de.aliexpress.com/store/pro...09.html?spm=a2g0x.12010108.0.0.497a7f0c7Uccks
View attachment 307881

It could work but you need a rotating mount because the rig makes a few degrees turn

 

[saxxon66]

Depends ...

Here is more info and the build thread
https://forum.virtualracing.org/sho...tion-Loss-im-Tri-Motion-Wo-geht-die-Reise-hin

 

[MattDignam]

I would not recommend to use a fold-back/push-rod design for push/pull. Instead look for something with a FK and FF bearing. It's easy to setup and install and will be your best bet for push/pull (have a look at the cnc guys) because there is no weak point in the construction.
You can easily build one on your own using of the shelf parts or get an preassembled one.

DIY can be much easier because you do not need any rails, just the motor mount, coupler, spindle and the FK and FF blocks. There are also some using profiles, you can mount directly to you 8020 rig.



Only for example
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Baukastensystem-Easy-Mechatronics-Linearachse-CNC

https://de.aliexpress.com/store/pro...09.html?spm=a2g0x.12010108.0.0.497a7f0c7Uccks
View attachment 307881

Hi @saxxon66 , I've been wondering about this myself. Great info.
With your recent announcement of unlimited multi-controller support, is there any plan on supporting additional motor/driver models as well in SimFeedback? I was wondering if alternative (push/pull) actuator designs suited to surge, sway and traction loss could possibly be implemented in the future to have it all controlled via your software.

 

[Bleak December]

Hello everyone, needing your advice

My build is almost finished (only waiting for the Pyronius board to arrive), in the meantime i did some jog test with the four actuators attached to the rig and two of them (coincidentally?) on one side did not move (I tested them before attaching to the rig and moved up/down fine). They did some kind of thump noise (like trying to move) but that was all, after that sound it seemed they were spinning loose but didn’t want to press the button for too long

Any ideas before de-attaching and disassembling?

Thank you!

 

[dedraro]

Board arrived a few minutes ago! A beautiful package I am surprised by how well packaged it is and the quality of the board. A big thanks to @HoiHman and of course @Pyronious to make this possible.

I can finally assemble my rig, which has been sleeping for 3 months, as I decided to conclude with the Pyronious board!

 

[anton_Chez]

Hello everyone, needing your advice

My build is almost finished (only waiting for the Pyronius board to arrive), in the meantime i did some jog test with the four actuators attached to the rig and two of them (coincidentally?) on one side did not move (I tested them before attaching to the rig and moved up/down fine). They did some kind of thump noise (like trying to move) but that was all, after that sound it seemed they were spinning loose but didn’t want to press the button for too long

Any ideas before de-attaching and disassembling?

Thank you!

If they sound like something is spinning but nothing is moving, try looking in the slot on the motor mount and check if the coupling had come loose.

 

[Bleak December]

If they sound like something is spinning but nothing is moving, try looking in the slot on the motor mount and check if the coupling had come loose.

Will check this evening, thanks!

 

[NeedforSim]

It could work but you need a rotating mount because the rig makes a few degrees turn

Agree with @saxxon66. For a 3DOF platform (surge, sway an yaw) with rear and front traction loss, I am planning to use CNC actuators with AASD15A servo/motor units. The actuators would be:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/3296...lgo_pvid=1a088cd5-5221-4e9f-963c-83673bcc5b78

 

[anton_Chez]

Personally have zero interest in rear traction loss. The SFX translates the feeling very nicely for me and I like the tight and rigid nature of it all. Having a moving rear, I don't know. Same as a moving Surge effect, on a track. For me I'd never go for something like that.

 

[Flag Ghost]

Hoping some smart folks start coming up with some great SFX compatible mechanisms for seat belt tensioning soon.

 

[anton_Chez]

I've lost interest in that, too.



These engine vibes I'm getting have completely taken over for me. They are spectacular.

 

[NeedforSim]

Personally have zero interest in rear traction loss. The SFX translates the feeling very nicely for me and I like the tight and rigid nature of it all. Having a moving rear, I don't know. Same as a moving Surge effect, on a track. For me I'd never go for something like that.

Maybe for racing on a track, traction loss isn't that important, but for rally or flight simulators it really is. For a rally sim, traction loss is like a hand brake. With a hand brake, the immersion is better instead of using a botton. The traction loss also works for flight sims to simulate yaw when rudder is used.

 

[Bleak December]

Will check this evening, thanks!

It’s either 2 of the controllers or the cabling segment up to the motor connection.. i checked and it was not the coupling. I used one of the working controllers/servo to move one faulty actuator and it worked fine (for a moment I was pretty scared that it were the motors). Next test is to de-rack and redo the cabling to use one the alleged faulty controllers into one working setup, keeping fingers crossed for it to be just be some internal damaged cable...

 

[Mascot]

Hoping some smart folks start coming up with some great SFX compatible mechanisms for seat belt tensioning soon.

I've said it before but my semi-passive spring tensioner system feels great and costs naff-all. Tightens realistically under braking/descents, relaxes under acceleration/ascents.
No complication, no noise, no expensive actuators, not much to go wrong. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best.

 

[niko911]

Having serious warping problems with the PETG filament. So I´d build myself the Prusa Lack cabinet.
Pretty fun actually and I´m going to do some test prints after the weekend.
Luckily I´m in no hurry. Long waiting time for both the DD2 or the Simucube 2 (hoping for some serious reviews soon so I can make up my mind). Can´t order a rig before I have choosen a wheel setup.
Are where any Swedes what are planning of building a IKEA Lack cabinett? I´ve got two sets of plexiglas left over since I had to buy a big sheet of plexi and had it cut out.

 

[Chris_I]

@Mascot which spring are u using? Maybe a link you can share?

 

[Mascot]

@Mascot which spring are u using? Maybe a link you can share?

It's a draw-bar compression spring (sometimes called a Storm Door spring) that I happened to have so I don't know the exact specs, but I've got some measurements somewhere. Hang on.

Edit:

Can be had from here:
https://www.federnshop.com/de/produkte/seilzugfedern.html

and this one seems closest:

 

[ThugUK]

You could also use bungies for the tension, instead of a spring.
Here is a YouTube video of a guy doing just that (on his NLR seat mover, but same principal).

 

[Flag Ghost]

I've said it before but my semi-passive spring tensioner system feels great and costs naff-all. Tightens realistically under braking/descents, relaxes under acceleration/ascents.
No complication, no noise, no expensive actuators, not much to go wrong. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best.

Will give it a go with SFX. I tried this before with the NLRv3 and found that the actual belt travel was too short and didn't impart the forces I was looking for so I'm still assuming that an active belt tensioner will be needed for me.