The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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What bracket have people used for attaching the profile to the rig?
I have a P1-X on order so I’m assuming it would be the same as those who have a P1 rig?

Any pointers to UK suppliers would be helpful but not essential.
 
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Wow... When people are talking about how long it takes to print the parts... You werent joking..

I've now got 2 3D printers.. And have become a quasi expert in the last few weeks...
Also going to design and print the bumpstop gasket out of flexible filament.. Will post the STL once I've perfected it if anyone's interested?
I feel anything I can contribute to this project is my duty :)
 
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What bracket have people used for attaching the profile to the rig?
I have a P1-X on order so I’m assuming it would be the same as those who have a P1 rig?

Any pointers to UK suppliers would be helpful but not essential.

Lots of people have been using the standard 40x40 angle brackets (4 per each profile). You can go bigger if you feel the need to. I know some have used 80x80 brackets for example.

You can use the standard M8 t-nuts in the Kinetic profile too but it's a bit of a faff to keep them in place as they are smaller than the ones that can be ordered directly from Kinetic when you are buying the profiles themselves.

I used Motedis (Germany) for all my brackets but the postage cost is pretty high to justify unless you are doing a big order.

Here is a link to a UK supplier (KJN). I haven't used them personally but I know others have with no issues.

http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/40x40-Angle-Bracket-Set-KJN41124.html#SID=310
 
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Thanks

I’ve not used the aluminium extrusion before so possibly a stupid question but do the 40 40 brackets fit? The k50 profile has a different distance to the slot at 25mm compared to 20mm
 
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The brackets I bought from Valueframe fit no problems at all.
The are slotted, so easy to fit most profiles.
They do have locating lugs on the profile which can easily be snapped off with a screwdriver or priers.
 
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If only everyone's answer to their problems were as easy as mine.

SImon, of course :thumbsup:

Also, GT1 is a great chassis, BUT, they have removed the one that I have, replaced it with the GT1 Evo and also adjusted the pricing on the P1, I think? I know that the shipping cost is MUCH less (to Australia, anyway) than when I bought mine. I paid 500 euro for shipping, I think.

So with the reduction in cost for shipping heavy weighted items to far away places, you probably could spend as much or less than I did and end up with the flagship model, the P1.

Just make sure you have a punching bag handy when you unpack it all.............
 
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The new P1-X is better than the old P1, because the pedal deck is already on the inside, which is required for mounting SFX-100 style motion actuators at the corners. No need for any modifications.

I’m very happy with my P1, I use it everyday for a couple of hours with the SFX-100 motion, HE pedals and OSW, so there’s a lot of forces going on, but it’s still solid like a granite rock. It’s so solid that I can feel the smallest vibrations of the OSW in my seat (when I turn off the SFX-100 and Buttkickers for FFB fine-tuning). Highly recommend the P1 if you don’t want to design something yourself. The front mount is also great, for SC1 or SC2. Or they have a new side mount especially for the Podium.
 
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Does anybody have CAD models of the complete actuator assembly or the individual purchased parts? I don't have a printer but I do have a 3-axis CNC mill so I'm going to make a version out of ali and polyacetal. Cheers.
 
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Ignore that request actually, I've managed to find most of the parts on GrabCAD or modelled my own. Planning on using M12 bolts into the extrusion instead of M8 + inserts. I'm guessing the central slider is designed to contact with the inside of the extrusion during possible flexing (particularly at full extension) so should be a fairly close fit. Still a work in progress:
Md1cP1I.png
 
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Not sure anyone has found that limit yet. There’s a video of 2 people on a rig with it working without issue, so I would think you should only worry if you’re getting over 500kg
 
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