The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

acekrusty23 · Feb 14, 2019

sebna said:
Thanks for letting us know. Could you please also let us know if the process was smooth sailing like it was with Emily once you get all the parts etc.?

Yep, will do. Amy just emailed me to confirm my address etc. she said she will email me again once she has the tracking number from shipper.

metalnwood · Feb 14, 2019

@anton_Chez You have got to tell me about the pimax... I have a bit of $$ and was contemplating getting one.. I know a few guys at iracing have them and really like it but the chat seems to have died.. maybe they are just happy using them..

anton_Chez · Feb 14, 2019

Will definitely start a new thread with my impressions and also how it combines with motion. Probably not that different to what we have now but tracking and all that stuff is a relevant point of contention now so I'll have some thoughts on that as well.

acekrusty23 · Feb 14, 2019

sebna said:
Bolts and nuts ordered...

Where did u get your nuts and bolts, I presume your in oz. thanks.

BluePotato00 · Feb 14, 2019

I used DecibelX on my iPhone to test SFX-100 noise. Had the iPhone on my rig seat. My room is 42dB ambient. Maxed out at 62dB when the actuators do their start/stop operation.

For reference:
40dB is a quiet whisper
50dB is a quiet home
60dB is a quiet street
70dB is normal conversation
75dB is inside a car
80dB is loud singing

Moe Ballout · Feb 15, 2019

Are these still available? Can I get these pre built? I currently have a next level motion v3 and want a more of a dbox setup. I would love to try these out. Can these handle heave weights? Thank you

sjb266 · Feb 15, 2019

Moe Ballout said:
Are these still available? Can I get these pre built? I currently have a next level motion v3 and want a more of a dbox setup. I would love to try these out. Can these handle heave weights? Thank you

Wow.. have you read any of the thread?

RowanH · Feb 15, 2019

BluePotato00 said:
I used DecibelX on my iPhone to test SFX-100 noise. Had the iPhone on my rig seat. My room is 42dB ambient. Maxed out at 62dB when the actuators do their start/stop operation.

For reference:
40dB is a quiet whisper
......
80dB is loud singing

See there's something things you just don't want simulated. Real car, static noise test 120db @ 4500rpm on the old exhaust (side exit inches away from my right hip). Hate to think what it was at 7600rpm... did damage my hearing slightly one track session.

The SFX actuators are quiet

anton_Chez · Feb 15, 2019

Almost silent, to be honest. Coming from someone who owns another highly regarded quiet motion platform. I reckon the actuators are quieter than the V3. Not counting the rattle and what not from the actual rig bouncing around which can vary greatly person to person.

The actuators themselves, I was stunned at how little noise there was when I first put them on to test.

HoiHman · Feb 15, 2019

Silent agreed, but... if you really drive them hard with large and fast movements, the noise levels go up significantly.

Steve D · Feb 15, 2019

RowanH said:
See there's something things you just don't want simulated. Real car, static noise test 120db @ 4500rpm on the old exhaust (side exit inches away from my right hip). Hate to think what it was at 7600rpm... did damage my hearing slightly one track session.

The SFX actuators are quiet

120db at 4.5k static! Holy Moly and oh to dream! No chance you can get away with that in the UK. You'd be heading back home before even sniffing the track.

Circa 100db static and in some cases as low as 87db driveby, depending on circuit and which way the wind is blowing! My Caterham just about makes it and that's with exhaust and induction work. I refuse to short shift!

Back to the noise the actuators make and I think it does depend on how aggressive you run intensity and other settings but scale-ability is the beauty of this system. It's just so damn tuneable and you can enjoy the experience at any level. I've set things on the conservative side and I'd say noise levels are on a par with the NLRv3, if that and that's impressive.

However that's all pretty irrelevant to me anyway as when the opportunity presents itself I crank up the external audio to silly levels to immerse myself fully.

Mascot · Feb 15, 2019

anton_Chez said:
Almost silent, to be honest. Coming from someone who owns another highly regarded quiet motion platform. I reckon the actuators are quieter than the V3. Not counting the rattle and what not from the actual rig bouncing around which can vary greatly person to person.

The actuators themselves, I was stunned at how little noise there was when I first put them on to test.

Just imagine how quiet they'd be if you'd greased the ball screws mate.

There was a smear of very light machine oil on mine when they arrived but that would soon disappear after a few cycles. If I was you I'd strip them down and go to town with a grease gun - the ball screws are metal-on-metal and taking the full load of the chassis under violent movements. You might not get an audible warning that they're wearing (but I'd be surprised if noise levels didn't increase over time) but you may start to experience some 'slack' in the system after a few months as the parts wear. These really are supposed to be properly lubricated.

Vantskruv · Feb 15, 2019

I noticed that in this build, machinescrews are screwed in 3D-printed plastic. Does that really hold? I am think about using some type of glue in the plastic holes (have not researched yet which best glue to use with PLA plastic) while screwing them in, but I am still getting quite anxious...

Edit: Another thing I thinking about is to drill the holes with machinscrew-drills. But I am not sure if that is intended or not, or if it will make it worse.

sjb266 · Feb 15, 2019

Vantskruv said:
I noticed that in this build, machinescrews are screwed in 3D-printed plastic. Does that really hold? I am think about using some type of glue in the plastic holes (have not researched yet which best glue to use with PLA plastic) while screwing them in, but I am still getting quite anxious...

Edit: Another thing I thinking about is to drill the holes with machinscrew-drills. But I am not sure if that is intended or not, or if it will make it worse.

run them in and out and in again with a driver.. the screws heat up and basically lock with the plastic... mine did anyway..

Vantskruv · Feb 15, 2019

Okay, I will give it ago when I have reached that step, though it just feels wrong to use machinescrews in plastic. :S

And for that matter, it is quite hard to find M6x85mm screws in local machineshops in Sweden. It is easy to find 80, 90 or 100mm. So I bought some lengthier ones and I will try my best to cut them to 85mm lengths.

jimbraj · Feb 15, 2019

I def assembled the actuators and never did the motor test . Should i worry about this? Pull them apart ?

sebna · Feb 15, 2019

acekrusty23 said:
Where did u get your nuts and bolts, I presume your in oz. thanks.

I am in EU

. In Ireland to be precise.

RowanH · Feb 15, 2019

Vantskruv said:
So I bought some lengthier ones and I will try my best to cut them to 85mm lengths.

Same in NZ no need to them down they'll be fine

HugoB · Feb 15, 2019

Vantskruv said:
I noticed that in this build, machinescrews are screwed in 3D-printed plastic. Does that really hold? I am think about using some type of glue in the plastic holes (have not researched yet which best glue to use with PLA plastic) while screwing them in, but I am still getting quite anxious...

Edit: Another thing I thinking about is to drill the holes with machinscrew-drills. But I am not sure if that is intended or not, or if it will make it worse.

The 3D printed material acts like a nyloc nut, the screws won’t come out. And the strength is apparently enough for this application, it doesn’t budge a millimeter. In any case, if it ever breaks, just print a new part. Also, I think the beauty of this design is that if things go very wrong, 3D printed parts will absorb the energy and break, like the crumple zone of a car, before the more expensive parts like ballscrew and nut or motors. I wouldn’t change anything in the design, it has been proven to work for a long time already and by many, many people.

Vantskruv · Feb 15, 2019

@RowanH Nice! Did you use 90mm lengths? I currently bought 100mm, but I can get hold of 90mm (edit: or 80mm for that matter...)

@HugoB Yeah, you are right after all. I remember when I had RC-helicopters as a hobby, it was crucial to have some breakpoint parts to not destroy bigger and more expensive parts when crashing.

I will stop worrying.