The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[HugoB]

Hi mate! I am on the same boat. Have had not much support though when I asked before since I got only 2 answers on the german forum (1 guy was offering a spare emi which was below specs what is recommended and the other guy spoke about another emi filter only 10amps and a different model than what you posted (actually an IEC C14 inlet filter with earth line choke)). I recommend you read carefully this page and then make a choice. I was expecting the opinion of someone with some experience on the electrical side as I lack any of this. So I decided to investigate myself.
https://www.schaffner.com/products/emcemi/
I thinkl the FN2070 refurbished model in ebay was the one recommended. You are posting a FN2060.
Check in Shaffner that there are different models within the same series. Just download the specsheets. For example, if I look at the 16amp FN2070 you have basically two options (standard and enhanced performance types).
Standard: up to 80dB attenuation between 100k and 1M. Enhanced: up to 90dB attenuation between 100k and 1M.
This is why I mean I have not the expertise to say one or the other is better for our servos!
Anyway, also look at connector options within each series:
06>faston type (spade/soldering)
07>wire leads
08>can be used with a screwdriver
Any of them are ok.
I researched prices and funny thing sometimes a superior series like FN2090 (with very high attenuation performance) is cheaper than a FN2070.
FN2955 is also another option that goes up to 20amps (just a different form factor...it depends on where you plan to set up your servos).
Hope to make it clearer for anyone looking for this.
Prices I found are in the 20eur-60eur range, so I think it would be great if anyone can confirm what are the minimum specs for:
a) our servos (sfx100) now ...only 4
b) for our servos (sfx100) in a future ... 4+2? or 3? (already people around using 4+3)
c) for the above + our OSW.
Rgds and hope to finish my electronics soon. Everything else is READY!

I have the FN2070 16A 07 installed, it has cleaned up my line, I've posted about it before. Also what I have noticed is that I can now leave my whole rig running with the car just sitting there idling (I know, bad for the environment) while I go take a dump or eat something and when I get back, sometimes even after a hour, everything is still up and running fine. Before the filter was installed, something had most likely hung up, the Rift, the OSW, the HE pedals or the SimFeedback software. Also, I'm getting less VR HMD resets or shifts. Also, the input of my HE Sprint pedals has become rock solid, they used to sometimes have micro glitches.

 

[dedraro]

Hi mate! I am on the same boat. Have had not much support though when I asked before since I got only 2 answers on the german forum (1 guy was offering a spare emi which was below specs what is recommended and the other guy spoke about another emi filter only 10amps and a different model than what you posted (actually an IEC C14 inlet filter with earth line choke)). I recommend you read carefully this page and then make a choice. I was expecting the opinion of someone with some experience on the electrical side as I lack any of this. So I decided to investigate myself.
https://www.schaffner.com/products/emcemi/
I thinkl the FN2070 refurbished model in ebay was the one recommended. You are posting a FN2060.
Check in Shaffner that there are different models within the same series. Just download the specsheets. For example, if I look at the 16amp FN2070 you have basically two options (standard and enhanced performance types).
Standard: up to 80dB attenuation between 100k and 1M. Enhanced: up to 90dB attenuation between 100k and 1M.
This is why I mean I have not the expertise to say one or the other is better for our servos!
Anyway, also look at connector options within each series:
06>faston type (spade/soldering)
07>wire leads
08>can be used with a screwdriver
Any of them are ok.
I researched prices and funny thing sometimes a superior series like FN2090 (with very high attenuation performance) is cheaper than a FN2070.
FN2955 is also another option that goes up to 20amps (just a different form factor...it depends on where you plan to set up your servos).
Hope to make it clearer for anyone looking for this.
Prices I found are in the 20eur-60eur range, so I think it would be great if anyone can confirm what are the minimum specs for:
a) our servos (sfx100) now ...only 4
b) for our servos (sfx100) in a future ... 4+2? or 3? (already people around using 4+3)
c) for the above + our OSW.
Rgds and hope to finish my electronics soon. Everything else is READY!

Unfortunately no one had answered me and I ordered the fn2070-10-06
https://it.rs-online.com/web/p/filtri-di-alimentazione/1705012/
That from what I read is just as you say the recommended, I know less than you certainly. Thanks for the reply.

These may help to reduce vibration traveling through the floor: Wagner MP4E / Diversitech MP-4E. https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP-4E-Eva-Anti-Vibration/dp/B008HQ2AAW
View attachment 291622
10 x 10 cm, 2.5 cm thick. About 4 euro a piece.

I have ordered this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU6WT5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And i will do a sandwich with other insulating pads and MDF plate.

 

[anton_Chez]

All I know is, for the seating position, when I dropped the actuators as low as possible, the drive just felt better. As Paul has suggested (he was the one that initiated my interest in achieving a lower COG) you are more connected to the movement the lower your seat is in relation to the actuator position. He likened it to 'sitting on top of the car, rather than sitting in the car'. I didn't have a great deal of experience the way that actuators were from the beginning, because I made the change fairly early on and was still playing with settings and VR stuff before actually doing many laps. But I immediately felt the difference.

My solution was two pronged. First, I assessed whether or not I could get the actuators positioned any lower on the bottom rail, while still having enough fixing to be confident in the mount strength. Turns out I could, so I achieved 40mm lower there. I then turned to the seat. As a V3 user, there's a mandatory height that must be maintained (for my seat, anyway) between the bottom of the platform and the curve in the underneath of the bucket seat. This combined with the irregular mounting holes means I need to run the 40mm profile in between without any choice. I could, however, remove the 40mm rail that the bespoke V3 brackets were mounted to. With some packing to bridge the new gap between the bracket holes and the main bottom rail, I've reclaimed an additional 40mm here as well. The V3 now sits almost as low relative to the floor as it did pre actuator mounting.

Final result gives me nearly 100mm closer seating position relative to the actuators. The only way to go lower will be to remove the V3 and further customise the seat rails to drop the seat inside the frame rather than on top (Rowen discussed this somewhere, showing seat mounts that were basically connected to the underneath of the chassis), or to create a custom bracket that connects to the actuator and allows a mounting point to the chassis that is lower than anything the actuator currently can provide.

For reference, I've got one set of gusseted angle brackets at the absolute bottom of the actuator, connected right against where the linear bearing mount is, and these are connected to the highest slot (top slot on the 2 slots I have available on the 40 x 80mm main rail) on the chassis main rail. I've then used another set of 2 gusseted corner brackets along the top of the main railing connecting to the inside portion of the actuator, the side that faces the seat.

I'm happy with the result. Again as an owner of the V3 I don't require huge feeling in surge and sway as this is the primary use of that platform. In my opinion it does a great jot complementing what the SFX-100 offers, I do still run those effects, however, in tandem. If Hugo's theory is correct (I have no way of actually knowing if it is) you could cure this just by increasing the intensity of the Surge and Sway effects in SFB, relative to the other effects. You get proper COG and still get the high feedback forces should you require them especially if you don't have a supplementary motion solution combined with the actuators. Most of us won't.

The V3 actually feels very melded in it's feedback combined with the SFX-100. I sometimes forget that it's running, It doesn't feel like something is being pasted over the top of something else, at all.

 

[anton_Chez]

@HugoB please give some feedback when you get your tensioner. I am sure we will hear about it once you receive it. I'm holding out on ordering one for now. Keen to hear your thoughts.

 

[Mascot]

Yay, finally got my first actuator assembled after a day of distractions.
One thing struck me as daft:why is it recommended that the fixed bearing is attached before the slider? It only gets in the way of your drill/driver when attaching the slider to the ball screw. I was puzzling over it for ten minutes thinking there must be a reason for it, but... no. I'll do the rest of them in the reverse order, it'll be a hell of a lot easier.

 

[C64]

Good to see you back on the build... don’t forget to stick the o rings to the bump stop with a few dots of superglue.

 

[Mascot]

Good to see you back on the build... don’t forget to stick the o rings to the bump stop with a few dots of superglue.

Already done!

 

[RowanH]

Thought I'd throw this out there for anyone interested. I've now had the chance to try all 3 scenarios of monitor/VR with my SFX. Unmounted, mounted to the rig, and VR.

1. Unmounted - gives the most motion sensation, as you constantly have a reference point you're looking at which is static and you're moving. Eyes got hellishly tired - mostly I believe because it was too far forward from the rig (the only way I could do it at the time) and had the rig wound up intensity wise so you're struggling to focus on a small area with the movement. Potentially felt a little motion sickness now and then.
2. Mounted - this is now my default setup. 7 weeks and counting I haven't broken the monitor. Motion sensation lessened, less eye strain. You have to make sure there's no possible way the monitor can move - ie needs to be fully supported not just on the vesa mount, but a few points on the frame.
3. VR - (for me and I really think this is how everyone copes with VR). I rented an Odyssey+ this weekend. The feeling of motion lessened. Heave yes, rumble strips, yes, but if a track was pitching up/down it was weird and uncanny like "it's not moving" but no it is. Now of course I can barely manage a few laps in VR without wanting to reach for the bucket.. the minute there's some cornering with lots of pixels going left or right, ooof.... my brain really, really struggles with VR and can't make heads or tails of things so ends up in the same place motion sickness wise. It definitely made VR feel better in motion than when I had the platform turned off.

I've got my alloy rig coming and have to decide what I'm going to do between 1 and 2, ideally (1) as I like to have everything turned up and like my big Group C cars that crash through rumble strips, but that means big triples to compensate a little for moving back from it's current mounting position. Decisions, decisions...

 

[wajdi]

I ordered the pt-actuators ( 4) and I can’t imagine my self running motion without VR. I strongly believe that motion is much much immersive with VR and loses a lot without.

 

[HoiHman]

Rowan, i have tried all 3 options for a pretty long time

Option 1. Unmounted, just doesn't immerse me anymore. The screen needs to be too far away from the steering wheel, in order to prevent it from hitting the monitor

Option 2. Mounted, i like this a lot for all racegames that do not support VR. Still reduced profiles are needed in order to prevent the vesa mount from breaking of

Option 3: VR : This is when the SFX100 can be free. Unleash it's full potential not having to worry to break anthing. Turn up the speed and just have a blast.

I never use option 1 anymore, but i often (sometimes even daily) switch between option 1 and 2.

Monitor on the rig i usually use for the casual race games, VR mostly for the hardcore sims

 

[sebna]

I am at the stage when I try to overcome motion sickness with VR and NLRv3... uhh it is not going well but I read that I need to keep pushing through and it will eventually get better.

Lets see who wins, my strong will or the motion sickness...

 

[Mascot]

I am at the stage when I try to overcome motion sickness with VR and NLRv3... uhh it is not going well but I read that I need to keep pushing through and it will eventually get better.

Lets see who wins, my strong will or the motion sickness...

Drink ginger ale.

 

[sebna]

Option 2. Mounted, i like this a lot for all racegames that do not support VR. Still reduced profiles are needed in order to prevent the vesa mount from breaking of

Can you write a bit more about what do you mean with reduced profiles?

 

[sebna]

Drink ginger ale.

Just looked it up online. Should I get dry or gold version and how much should I drink of it? Is intravenous application an option?

(At this stage I am willing to try everything and anything )

 

[HoiHman]

Can you write a bit more about what do you mean with reduced profiles?

Lower intensities and lower max and min speed settings. In general softer movements and lower speeds.

Sometimes less = more

 

[jimbraj]

Question for those with the NLv3 mounted in tandem (@Steve D, @anton_Chez , others): what's a good technique for raising the whole chassis to enable the actuators to be fitted, taking into account the added weight of the NLMv3? Did you take the NLMv3 and seat off first to make it more manageable? I'm guessing lifting it all up somehow and propping it on timber, something like that? The practicalities of actually installing the actuators isn't something i've seen discussed all that much, so maybe there's a much simpler solution that I'm missing?

I’m gonna bring my jack and some jack stands lol

 

[BluePotato00]

In case you're interested in what all 10cm of travel looks like on all 4 actuators!

Several times during the ride, there was an actuator foot off the ground. Reason for concern?

BTW, I can do an hour long race in VR with no problems, but 20 seconds of this and I'm needing to tear off the headset!

 

[C64]

Just looked it up online. Should I get dry or gold version and how much should I drink of it? Is intravenous application an option?

(At this stage I am willing to try everything and anything )

Ginger is one of the few non-medicines that has an effect on motion sickness, may not have a big effect but worth a shot, mythbusters tested various seasickness potions and ginger was the only one that helped http://kwc.org/mythbusters/2005/11/episode_43_seasickness_cures_f.html
I'm lucky in that I can do VR for as long as I want but when I first ran the SFX100 it did make me feel strange for a couple of hours, similar to when i first got my oculus rift. I would suggest getting used to VR without any motion and then add in motion when you are comfortable. The good thing is most people can build up a tolerance to motion sickness as long as you stop when nausea strikes and don't try again until you are properly recovered.

 

[anton_Chez]

Same, I've never experiences any motion sickness, whether that be in car, boat, plane, or in VR. There are times where your stomach can get queasy but in those situations, they are extreme, like doing loops in No Limits 2 on the roller coaster where your legs are dangling. In race cars though, nothing. I'm lucky.

I didn't like the screen mounted to the chassis. I kept finding my viewpoint needing to be corrected, as I've been used to racing on stationary triples, both with and without the V3. I do feel that motion is the ultimate experience with VR. I wonder on a real road how much you'd feel the car pitch on elevation changes, anyway? Probably the same little amount you experience in VR, when you would expect to see more. I think also without the HMD on, things around you give the impression that the chassis is moving more, you have more to reference your change in position on. In VR, you have basically your inner ear and the pit of your stomach for changes that aren't big, sudden or forceful.

 

[frankrizzo2]

If anyone has any interest in this mount I will post the STL files for it once I have it dialed in. I haven't had a chance to try it yet on a race but it seems like a really solid way to hold the sensor position in place.
The motion and effects with this system is just incredible and I'm really enjoying it other than I am getting some reseting in VR which is breaking immersion so I would like to get that taken care of. I know that there have been some success out there on eliminating/lessening the effects of the VR resets mid race but it's been difficult to find those posts again. Has the EMI filters been the best fix for them or are there some other things that have been proven effective in reducing this? I have a separate USB card for the Oculus sensor and headset and have them separated from the other usb devices but I'm still getting the same results. I will try a few different combos tonight and see if I can eliminate some or most of it. Maybe there should be another thread just for this issue so that it's easier to find in the future and we're not clogging up this thread with this issue?