The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[MrRoper]

Motors ordered today, That`s everything I need now to build the Actuators. Printing wise I am 3 sliders down and the rest to go. Its gonna take a while as I can only print when im at home and don`t trust the printer to print overnight!

 

[saxxon66]

Noise level

As expected, the volume increases with the rotation speed.
This is due to the principle (ball) of this drive.

The biggest sound pressure is around 80hz.

The sound level is pretty low on slower speeds and rises up quickly

I found an interesting paper on this topic
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...?id=25837940&usg=AOvVaw3Ies7wP79D6e9NEQZpwiQT

What can we do with this info?

What do our Tactile/Sound specialists have to say?

Can we dampen/absorb this frequency range?

I did some test with sliding bearings (Igus) for the linear ball bearing (direct replacement part). It did not helped much with the faster speeds but changed the sound tone (pitch) and the slower speeds are nearly dead silent now.

 

[Insert Coin]

These may help to reduce vibration traveling through the floor: Wagner MP4E / Diversitech MP-4E. https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP-4E-Eva-Anti-Vibration/dp/B008HQ2AAW

10 x 10 cm, 2.5 cm thick. About 4 euro a piece.

 

[BluePotato00]

Nice! Did you use 90mm lengths? I currently bought 100mm, but I can get hold of 90mm (edit: or 80mm for that matter...)

I read earlier in this thread that 90mm screws can work in place of the 85mm ones. I did find some sets of 85mm on Amazon that I ordered for my build. Everything else I purchased from Bolt Depot (way cheaper than the small packs they sell at Home Depot / Lowes here in the USA).

 

[HugoB]

Noise level

As expected, the volume increases with the rotation speed.
This is due to the principle (ball) of this drive.

The biggest sound pressure is around 80hz.

View attachment 291618

The sound level is pretty low on slower speeds and rises up quickly

View attachment 291619


I found an interesting paper on this topic
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwiW9qDB8L3gAhWCLlAKHaolCngQFjAAegQIBxAC&url=http://download.atlantis-press.com/php/download_paper.php?id=25837940&usg=AOvVaw3Ies7wP79D6e9NEQZpwiQT

What can we do with this info?

What do our Tactile/Sound specialists have to say?

Can we dampen/absorb this frequency range?

I did some test with sliding bearings (Igus) for the linear ball bearing (direct replacement part). It did not helped much with the faster speeds but changed the sound tone (pitch) and the slower speeds are nearly dead silent now.

This sounds interesting... do you think the Igus stuff will also last as long concerning wear? I have some Igus filament here, lying around (https://www.igus.com/product/12404), is it possible to print a direct replacement for the linear bearing? Did you make STL files?

 

[saxxon66]

This sounds interesting... do you think the Igus stuff will also last as long concerning wear? I have some Igus filament here, lying around (https://www.igus.com/product/12404), is it possible to print a direct replacement for the linear bearing? Did you make STL files?

Here is a picture:

It is a direct replacement.

But it is not cheap.

Need to find the product link, sorry.

 

[HugoB]

That looks very interesting... would love to give it a try, just for kicks If you ever find the link, please do share?

 

[saxxon66]

That looks very interesting... would love to give it a try, just for kicks If you ever find the link, please do share?

https://www.igus.de/product/1212

 

[HugoB]

https://www.igus.de/product/1212

Thanks! 200€ for Igus vs 56€ for the ball bearing is quite a lot yes I understand why you chose the ball bearings! Let's see if I can gather some lost coins from behind the couch

 

[jimbraj]

Put all my build videos in a playlist


https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWlY1kvTcpFCFzXletBhuMsKd73pdMa1n

 

[Mascot]

Question for those with the NLv3 mounted in tandem (@Steve D, @anton_Chez , others): what's a good technique for raising the whole chassis to enable the actuators to be fitted, taking into account the added weight of the NLMv3? Did you take the NLMv3 and seat off first to make it more manageable? I'm guessing lifting it all up somehow and propping it on timber, something like that? The practicalities of actually installing the actuators isn't something i've seen discussed all that much, so maybe there's a much simpler solution that I'm missing?

 

[anton_Chez]

Yep timber is what I did. From memory Steve used jacks to get his up although he must have lifted it to at lease get the jacks in there in the first place. He'll explain anyway.

For me, I lifted front and rear one at a time, and had my wife position 3 blocks of timber under each corner as I was holding it. I didn't remove anything. The height it was lifted to was enough to get the actuators bolted on, and then once the start up process was done, I was able to slide the blocks out.

I used the same method when repositioning the actuators later on, to drop them lower. Although now, as we already have the ability to raise the platform automatically I did not need another person.

 

[Mascot]

Yep timber is what I did. From memory Steve used jacks to get his up although he must have lifted it to at lease get the jacks in there in the first place. He'll explain anyway.

For me, I lifted front and rear one at a time, and had my wife position 3 blocks of timber under each corner as I was holding it. I didn't remove anything. The height it was lifted to was enough to get the actuators bolted on, and then once the start up process was done, I was able to slide the blocks out.

I used the same method when repositioning the actuators later on, to drop them lower. Although now, as we already have the ability to raise the platform automatically I did not need another person.

Thanks mate, thought as much.
Ref the bolded, why would you need to drop them lower? Isn't there an optimal position for the actuators in relation to the bottom of the chassis (and... what it this position)?.

 

[Steve D]

Steve. Used a mini bottle jack and made up a lifting bracket with an offcut of profile. Attached to the side of the P1 and lifted one side at a time to attach actuators. Very stable.

If you want and aren’t in any immediate rush I can send both to you on Monday?

 

[metalnwood]

I also used timber but now they are mounted I will probably make four blocks a bit higher and use the simfeedback 'start' and stop to raise and lower on to the larger blocks for maintenance if/when required.

 

[Mascot]

Steve. Used a mini bottle jack and made up a lifting bracket with an offcut of profile. Attached to the side of the P1 and lifted one side at a time to attach actuators. Very stable.

Thanks Steve.
Do you have a vertical reference dimension for positioning the actuators in relation to the P1 chassis, either from the top or the bottom of the side rails?

 

[Steve D]

Steve. Top of bearing mount is in line with bottom of P1 for me. Think Anton May have dropped his further, I.e bottom of bearing mount in line with bottom of profile.

 

[C64]

I used a trolley jack... but a car jack should work with a bit of offcut 80/20 bolted on. Having your seating position as low as possible relative to the actuators makes a significant difference to the feel of being “in “ the car rather than on it. My limiting factor is not wanting to trap someone’s foot under the rig when the actuators settle down. I will be lowering my seat in my rig over the weekend if I’m not rattled unconscious driving round Sebring club circuit... it is a truly horrible strip of concrete !

 

[HugoB]

I understand the urge to get the seating point as low as possible, but I've been thinking lately (please correct me if I'm wrong):

- the lower (closer) your seating point is positioned to the turning point of the actuators, the more realistic your pitch & roll effects will feel, but conversely, the less effective your surge & sway effects will be and they will start to feel more like pitch & roll effects...

- the higher (further away) your seating point is positioned from the turning point of the actuators, the less realistic your pitch & roll effects will feel and as an unwanted side effect, surge & sway effects will be felt when pitch & roll effects are induced. But conversely, the more effective your surge & sway effects will be and the more they will start to feel like lateral and longitudinal displacement in the horizontal plane...

- heave is not affected by seating position in relation to turning point

I say this, because lately I've really been enjoying surge & sway in AC. I haven't lowered my seating position on the P1 yet, but this thought experiment got me thinking, my surge & sway effects will feel less realistic and become more like pitch & roll effects if I lower my seating. And the actual pitch & roll effects feel kinda good at the moment. I also think that the pitch & roll effects are more of a slow movement, following the track slope and bank, but surge & sway effects are more of an energy kind of effect, they need to accelerate fast to give you that momentum, so it really comes down to tuning the profiles. Of course, the weight balance effect of braking is more realistic the closer you are seated to the turning point of the actuators. But I'm installing a harness tensioner to get some more feedback under braking

I hope this ramble makes any sense to someone, it's all just in my head and a purely theoretical thought experiment, but logically it makes sense to me and the feeling of surge & sway is really good right now. It actually sways me left & right with a kick, helping me feel grip loss in turns, making fast cornering on the limit really fun. And fore & aft for breaking or gear change and tire slippage during braking etc.

So it's a bit of a compromise, if you don't use surge & sway, lowering your seating position to get it as close as possible to the actuator turning point will makes pitch & roll feel more realistic, a better experience altogether.

But if you do use surge & sway, the closer you position your seating point to the turning point of the actuators, the more your surge & sway effects will start to feel like pitch & roll..

This is purely my opinion and I might be wrong, so I hope the developers can chime in here

 

[razzta01]

Athough I have never had serious problems with EMI on my Pc rig, I would like to mount an emi filter in a preventive way, and I was wondering, would this be good?

https://it.rs-online.com/mobile/p/filtri-di-alimentazione/2192915/

otherwise which do you recommend? Thanks

Hi mate! I am on the same boat. Have had not much support though when I asked before since I got only 2 answers on the german forum (1 guy was offering a spare emi which was below specs what is recommended and the other guy spoke about another emi filter only 10amps and a different model than what you posted (actually an IEC C14 inlet filter with earth line choke)). I recommend you read carefully this page and then make a choice. I was expecting the opinion of someone with some experience on the electrical side as I lack any of this. So I decided to investigate myself.
https://www.schaffner.com/products/emcemi/
I thinkl the FN2070 refurbished model in ebay was the one recommended. You are posting a FN2060.
Check in Shaffner that there are different models within the same series. Just download the specsheets. For example, if I look at the 16amp FN2070 you have basically two options (standard and enhanced performance types).
Standard: up to 80dB attenuation between 100k and 1M. Enhanced: up to 90dB attenuation between 100k and 1M.
This is why I mean I have not the expertise to say one or the other is better for our servos!
Anyway, also look at connector options within each series:
06>faston type (spade/soldering)
07>wire leads
08>can be used with a screwdriver
Any of them are ok.
I researched prices and funny thing sometimes a superior series like FN2090 (with very high attenuation performance) is cheaper than a FN2070.
FN2955 is also another option that goes up to 20amps (just a different form factor...it depends on where you plan to set up your servos).
Hope to make it clearer for anyone looking for this.
Prices I found are in the 20eur-60eur range, so I think it would be great if anyone can confirm what are the minimum specs for:
a) our servos (sfx100) now ...only 4
b) for our servos (sfx100) in a future ... 4+2? or 3? (already people around using 4+3)
c) for the above + our OSW.
Rgds and hope to finish my electronics soon. Everything else is READY!