RaceRoom Racing Experience WTCR 2018 Released

Paul Jeffrey

Premium
RaceRoom DLC 5.jpg RaceRoom DLC Release 1.jpg RaceRoom DLC Release 2.jpg RaceRoom DLC Release 4.jpg RaceRoom DLC Release 6.jpg RaceRoom DLC Release 7.jpg
RaceRoom Racing Experience has returned from maintenance with seven new cars available to purchase.. the 2018 FIA WTCR is here!

We've heard plenty about these new cars on the build up to release, and now finally we have the opportunity to take them out on the virtual circuits in RaceRoom Racing Experience. Featuring seven brands of car from VW, Audi, Alfa Romeo, Peugeot, Hyundai, Honda and Seat, the new WTCR pack comes with 25 liveries and can be purchased from the RaceRoom Racing Experience store for £13.34, or individual cars can be purchased separately for £3.55.

Update details:
Download size = 634 MB
Client version = 0.3.0.6416
Client BuildID = 3033701
Dedi version = 45.0.695
Dedi BuildID = 3033704


Content:
  • Alfa Romeo Giulietta TCR
  • Audi RS 3 LMS
  • Honda Civic TCR
  • Hyundai i30 N TCR
  • Peugeot 308 TCR
  • Seat Cupra TCR
  • Volkswagen Golf GTI TCR

Game:
  • Added "Launch Control" key mapping. WTCR cars are currently the only cars featuring it.

Usually releasing alongside a game update, Sector3 have confirmed that on this occasion the regular update will likely appear late March or early September, leaving todays update with "just" the new DLC and a new "launch control" option that works with the new car set.

RaceRoom Racing Experience is a free to play racing simulation from Sector3 Studios.

RaceRoom DLC Release 3.jpg


If you like RaceRoom and want to keep up to date with all the latest news and discussions, head on over to the RaceRoom Racing Experience sub forum. We host a whole range of top quality club racing events in our Racing Club, plus we offer a great place to hang out and discuss the game with your fellow R3E fans. Pop over and say hello today!


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 Have you tried the new DLC yet? What is your first impression of the new pack? Which car is your favourite ? Let us know in the comments section below!
 
As mentioned, go to the store (in-game), pick the car of your choice and there should be an option to Test Drive next to where the Buy button is. Then you can test drive the car around Raceroom Raceway for up to 24 hours at a time. There's no real lap timing available in this mode, but the clock is still running, so you can either look at the car dashboard to get an idea of your times, or you can use an external app - for example, Crew Chief still tells you your times on crossing the finish line every time, even in this mode.

Thanks--pretty easy once you get the logic of the UI. I was assuming it was a separate process through the large panel noting you can test any car.

What are the optimal FFB settings if you want "pure" FFB a la AMS? I know they have made changes over time and should go in and be open-minded about it now and forget the bad experience I had in the past :)
 
What are the optimal FFB settings if you want "pure" FFB a la AMS? I know they have made changes over time and should go in and be open-minded about it now and forget the bad experience I had in the past :)
Most of the FFB is "pure" physics based. Basically just the "Force Feedback Effects" section adds some "canned" effects on top of it, so turn those down to your liking. Other than that, I believe the defaults for most common wheels should be fine I think, and then just tweak from there.
 
So I just noticed you can have negative wing on these cars. Adding lift instead of downforce? :O_o:

That's a common misconception, but actually you have to remember that a wing on a race car is inverted compared to an aeroplane wing. So, it won't make positive lift unless you turn it upside down.

With the leading edge pointing up a bit, the overall effect of the wing is still a lot of downward force.
 
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Most of the FFB is "pure" physics based. Basically just the "Force Feedback Effects" section adds some "canned" effects on top of it, so turn those down to your liking. Other than that, I believe the defaults for most common wheels should be fine I think, and then just tweak from there.

Of course I would not use any of the canned effects. It was the middle section, with all the percentages that threw me. Presumably none of these is wheel-specific, so there should be a realistic/optimum setting and then everything else. I know the last one is something we used to have in Realfeel--I always used 90%. It was in AMS, too, in files to be edited, but whatever Reiza did at some point made using 100% the best. I am just trying to avoid a ton of hours of fiddling and experimenting.

I still do not understand why anyone would need or want to adjust settings that relate to the basic physics of the FFB, like the items in the middle section. But then I also don't use a sound equalizer because I presume the artists and sound engineers already took great pains to mix the music properly/optimally in the first place. Who am I to screw-around with the balance? FFB should be the same way.
 
@Marc Collins It is wheel specific, though, at least to an extent. It's the same like your example with the equalizer - yes, ideally the sound engineers did their best to adjust the sound to be as ideal as possible. But there's one thing they couldn't really account for - your own equipment and also your personal taste. Audio equipment has varying characteristics that do color the sound in various ways. So even if you truly want to have the sound as neutral as possible, you would still need to do some EQ adjustments to achieve that based on your specific equipment. Not touching the EQ at all does not mean you're actually getting the sound the sound engineers intended - you might be getting something very different indeed. And obviously, some people also like for example to emphasize the bass a bit more, for example.

It's the same with setting the FFB. But if you want to experience the FFB as the devs intended, again, just go with the defaults the game sets for your wheel.
 
Of course I would not use any of the canned effects. It was the middle section, with all the percentages that threw me. Presumably none of these is wheel-specific, so there should be a realistic/optimum setting and then everything else. I know the last one is something we used to have in Realfeel--I always used 90%. It was in AMS, too, in files to be edited, but whatever Reiza did at some point made using 100% the best. I am just trying to avoid a ton of hours of fiddling and experimenting.

I still do not understand why anyone would need or want to adjust settings that relate to the basic physics of the FFB, like the items in the middle section. But then I also don't use a sound equalizer because I presume the artists and sound engineers already took great pains to mix the music properly/optimally in the first place. Who am I to screw-around with the balance? FFB should be the same way.

You seem to be falling into the same trap most people who only play 1 sim fall into when trying another one. Namely, they want to make the FFB as close to what they already know, without wanting to experience something too different from what they are familiar with. And then most people only try a new sim for an hour and call it quits. When in reality it takes far longer to understand all the intricacies and subtleties being on offer.

Every game out there does FFB based on physics. There is no canned FFB, but there is some canned effects in every sim which you can choose to use or disable.

And like every other sim too, FFB is highly dependent on the wheel you use. I mean, why would a T150 or G27 use the same FFB settings as a Bodnar wheel?

In the end, FFB is mostly about preference. So, the default profiles are there to get you started, and the various options are there so you can tweak things to how you want them to feel. Some people want to feel understeer more easily, some dont want to at all. Some people want to feel all the bumps in the road, some dont care. Etc.

As @Martin Fiala already mentioned though, if you want to avoid 'canned' effects, just dont use much of the bottom 4 settings. Kerb, engine, collision, and slip iirc.
 
Tried last night, not that much fun for the lift off oversteer. Very very hard.

You need to keep a wee bit of throttle to keep the lift off oversteer in check, especially on the faster corners. And balance that with being super smooth on the throttle. It's a fine balance to keep the car settled. Very rewarding though!

Not sure if you saw my video I posted, but take a look on the first lap and you'll see me experience exactly what you describe, and then you'll see me start to control it as the laps go on.

Remember with a FWD car, the best way to control oversteer is to floor the throttle!

Video for reference:
 

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