Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Sprint Interview and First Impressions

[Paul Jeffrey]

We talk to Niels Heusinkveld and try out the soon to be released Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Sprint.

Catching up with Niels Heusinkveld at the recent very busy Sim Racing Expo over in Germany, we took the opportunity to quiz the man behind Heusinkveld Engineering about his newly announced Sim Pedals Sprint set of high end sim racing pedals. With Niels in a buoyant mood following what appeared to be a largely very positive reception to the new hardware, we took the opportunity to question him about the features and improvements of the new gear, learning plenty about how some dramatic software features and production improvements have moved the product range on from the already very impressive offerings of HE Engineering.

Not content with merely taking Niels at his word, we also couldn't quite resist the chance to get strapped into the cockpit and have a go ourselves, recording a short but sweet talk and drive segment as we give our first impressions based on the limited time we had with these brand new set of pedals.

Frankly, I was very impressed, although it is exceptionally hard to gather any serious kind of feel with something like a high end set of pedals with such a short period of time behind the wheel... not helped any by a crowd of people watching on, and a camera and microphone in my face!

However, with that said I'm going to be lucky enough to take receipt of a review set of these pedals in the very near future, so please consider this more of a taster video, with a much more in depth and detailed look at the HE Sim Pedals Sprint set to appear on our various social media channels in the near future. So stay tuned, get subscribed and watch out for some new footage in the (hopefully) coming weeks...

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[Fi22le]

Can anyone tell me the distance from the bottom part of the brake face plate to the furthest rear protrusion please?

I’m considering getting some, but I’m limited in space at the front of my rig. Thanks

 

[Patrick Dontigny]

It is about 7 3/4 inches.

 

[Fi22le]

Thanks Patrick. Much appreciated.

 

[badbrains7]

What configuration of brake rubber do you guys use?
Personally, I feel that the Small rubber (S) has a shorter stopping distance under full braking, but it is a little harder to control the brake release. The softer the rubber, the slower the response and the longer the braking distance, but I feel it is easier to control the brake release.

I have tried several configurations, but I have not found a setting that gives me the best of both worlds.

I mainly drive iRacing F3 cars, are there any configurations that I should try?
Sorry for my bad English!

 

[stigs2cousin]

Well,
as you described yourself, every configuration has its pro´s and con´s.

I´m afraid you have to find out yourself what works best for YOU.

I myself use one medium rubber, but as i´m still to grow up and progress into GT and Formula cars and have never driven such a thing in person I just can`t answer what would feel right for these cars.

MFG Carsten

 

[badbrains7]

Thanks for the advice, I'll certainly have to find something that works for me.
I'll start with an L configuration between the two and try to adjust the preload short. Hopefully I can find a compromise.

 

[Wilko Jones]

I own a set of Fanatec CSL Elite pedals,I bought them in December of 2020, and these things have broken for the last time! Again, the throttle potentiometer has failed. Im going to unbolt those damn things and put my old ass CSR pedals on my wheel stand. I am now saving for a set of HE sprints. Im not giving Fanatec another chance. 3 problems with the throttle, and even after getting a new potentiometer, the damn things can't last one full year of use? I'm no longer interested in any pedals Fanatec makes. The wife will complain, but I am trying to buy something reliable.

 

[RedBull48]

I own a set of Fanatec CSL Elite pedals,I bought them in December of 2020, and these things have broken for the last time! Again, the throttle potentiometer has failed. Im going to unbolt those damn things and put my old ass CSR pedals on my wheel stand. I am now saving for a set of HE sprints. Im not giving Fanatec another chance. 3 problems with the throttle, and even after getting a new potentiometer, the damn things can't last one full year of use? I'm no longer interested in any pedals Fanatec makes. The wife will complain, but I am trying to buy something reliable.

I don't think you will be disappointed. I myself have upgraded from Fanatec clubsport V3's which I must admit were great pedals and I did not have any technical issues with. They did however lack the customization that I was looking for. The HE Spirnts are a massive upgrade in terms of customization and their configuration tool allowing custom pedal curves and pressure tuning is great. In the unlikely event you do face issues however you will see many cases of HE's above and beyond tech support across this forum.

 

[blekenbleu]

Why do premium pedal sets lack clutch footrests?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Why do premium pedal sets lack clutch footrests?

You mean like this?
Guess because it's essentially part of the rig, not pedal set plus unless you are using motion you are not subject to G-forces requiring you bracing yourself against footrest.
I have tried to use some but in the end it was just waste of space and another thing my foot could catch on.
My solution is to have some initial deadzone on clutch and brake pedal so I can just rest my foot on them.

 

[cnhoff]

You mean like this?

That is an expensive piece of metal to rest your foot upon

I am also using the clutch pedal, i am not pressing hard enough on my Clubsport V3s to actuate the pedal it seems, so i do not have to use a deadzone.

 

[blekenbleu]

I accept that it is not needed in sims, but a footrest was very much part of on-track experiences,
along with a well-fitting seat and tight harnesses, for trying to stay relaxed in corners.

I will try repurposing an old aluminum throttle pedal cover...

 

[RCHeliguy]

I accept that it is not needed in sims, but a footrest was very much part of on-track experiences,
along with a well-fitting seat and tight harnesses, for trying to stay relaxed in corners.

I will try repurposing an old aluminum throttle pedal cover...

I just used a 10" long piece of 20x80 profile with a smooth front and sides.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

I accept that it is not needed in sims, but a footrest was very much part of on-track experiences,
along with a well-fitting seat and tight harnesses, for trying to stay relaxed in corners.

I will try repurposing an old aluminum throttle pedal cover...

You can buy a miata dead pedal on eBay for cheap.

 

[blekenbleu]

miata dead pedal

Thanks a ton, those look much easier than sorting a pedal cover bracket.

 

[JustinSj]

Hi all. I have 2 question.

1. Can anyone give a recommendation on how your heel should be positioned on the heelplate. My heel lifts of from the heel, plate all the time and i think it affects my consistency in braking. Also, i read a lot that you should "brake with your legs, not with the ankle" while on any posted YouTube video everyone seems to do both.

As per the attachment I interpret the heelplate options from HE that they make no recommendations on having your heel rested (high heel plate) vs having your heel in the air (low heel plate). Whereas, at least for me, with a low heelplate, with my ankle pivot point being lower than the pedal pivot point. I can't see how I should be able to press the brake without pivoting my ankle, or raise my whole leg to push it over the pivot point.

2. The spring/pre-load. I don't get it. You want to brake with the rubber right? Giving that kg that your "muscle memory" can remember. However, the first travel is with the spring. What is the idea behind that and how should I tune it to get the best brake consistency out of it?

Thank you!

 

[blekenbleu]

spring/pre-load

Real brakes have lost motion,
where pedal travel just bring pads in contact with brake rotors or drums.
Springs are intended to simulate that lost motion.

FWIW, many (most?) folks brake with heel not near, much less touching a heel plate (floor).
If you cannot apply sufficient brake pressure to lock wheels
without unnatural or uncomfortable heel, ankle or lower leg contortions,
then butt-to-pedal positioning and/or brake calibration want changing.

Personally, for heavy braking, I unflex the ankle,
bringing the ball of the foot more or less in line with the shin.
On the other hand (foot?),
heel-and-toe or trail braking ankle angle is more nearly that for walking.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

Hi all. I have 2 question.

1. Can anyone give a recommendation on how your heel should be positioned on the heelplate. My heel lifts of from the heel, plate all the time and i think it affects my consistency in braking. Also, i read a lot that you should "brake with your legs, not with the ankle" while on any posted YouTube video everyone seems to do both.

As per the attachment I interpret the heelplate options from HE that they make no recommendations on having your heel rested (high heel plate) vs having your heel in the air (low heel plate). Whereas, at least for me, with a low heelplate, with my ankle pivot point being lower than the pedal pivot point. I can't see how I should be able to press the brake without pivoting my ankle, or raise my whole leg to push it over the pivot point.

2. The spring/pre-load. I don't get it. You want to brake with the rubber right? Giving that kg that your "muscle memory" can remember. However, the first travel is with the spring. What is the idea behind that and how should I tune it to get the best brake consistency out of it?

Thank you!

As Blekenbleu said, your heel should NOT be on the heel plate. But, you can get away with a lot of poor technique in *sim* racing, that you can't in a real car, especially if you have the brake pedal setup fairly light. Its also exacerbated by the lack of braking feedback in sims (unless you have a G-belt).

In a real car, you apply primary force (50-100 lbs in a street based car like the MX-5...2x that in a NASCAR / F1 purpose built car) with the quads and glutes (thigh / hip muscles). To do that you must raise your heel off the plate. Then you use your calf and ankle muscles to modulate pressure based on road feedback (seeing smoke, hearing slipping sounds) trailing off the brake on corner entry, etc.

In order to be prepared for heel-toe, mostly just the ball of your big toe (maybe a little of the adjacent toe) should be on the brake pedal. I ALWAYS position my foot exactly the same way, regardless of the need for heel-toe (or not). That way my braking application and muscle memory is always exactly the same. Also, if I have a sudden (unexpected) need to downshift I'm already positioned for the heel-toe blip.

When I'm not in a heel-toe, my ankle is platar-flexed (toes pushed downward so that my instep is "in-line" with my shin). As I pivot my foot for a heel-toe throttle blip, I dorsiflex (toes pulling upward, ankle angle becoming more 90* ish) my ankle, my entire leg extends slightly to hold pressure on the brake, and I roll the outside of my foot (ball of my pinky toe) over onto the throttle. The motion take a while to coordinate so that you don't release brake pressure while making the pivot. Without real/sim G-load feedback, I don't know how you'd learn that.

FWIW, I do this exactly the same way when driving my street car. Always be practicing.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

Real brakes have lost motion,
where pedal travel just bring pads in contact with brake rotors or drums.
Springs are intended to simulate that lost motion.

fun fact. That bit of lost motion is ALSO required in order for the master cylinder to be able to bleed off build up pressure. During that first millimeter of travel there's a bleed hole exposed in the piston. If, say, you try to adjust the brake pedal/master cylinder pushrod in order to minimize this "lost motion" and you inadvertently prevent this bleed hole from being exposed....you will build up a small amount of static pressure in the system with each application of the brakes. After, oh say, a lap or two (for example, the out-lap and the first green flag lap in a race)...that static pressure is enough to prevent the pads from backing off the rotors. Not long after that, rotors and pads get hot, the engine lags, and it feels like you lost 75% of your power. So, coming out of T1 on lap 2, there's no-go. Now you have a full lap to drive with the brakes dragging on full.

Since you cant release the pressure from the brakes, the pads stay in full-pressure contact with the rotors, while still fully HOT. Guess what happens next? By the time you figure out what's wrong, everything is cool. Yep...the pads get "welded" to the rotors.

Ask me how I know....

 

[blekenbleu]

Ask me

No need; I have seen CTS-V front hub, caliper and rotor assemblies go monolithic at Putnam Park.
Something about more engine than brakes and a left foot braker who never fully lifted.