Buying advice please - Next Level v3 Motion Platform

[MarkR]

I'm looking for some advice and thoughts of other owners or people with good knowledge of the product, please.

I always said I'd buy myself a motion simulator if I could afford one and had the room available. Well, that day may have arrived. I'm impressed by what I've seen of the Next Level v3 Motion Platform

This seems to meet all my criteria:

+ Limited space requirements, I don't have room for a huge sim rig but this seems compact enough to work.
+ Works with Oculus Rift VR, that fixed head position setting solution is impressive
+ Great support and regular updates from the developers
+ Available in the UK
+ Works with my current Thrustmaster wheel and accessories.
+ Sub £3k for the full setup, I'm not a pro racer I'm not looking for a practice simulator this is just for fun so the cost/fun balance has to be right.

So help me do the man maths! Is it worth it?

Is there another similar product I should also look at? It would need to be reasonably compact, work with VR, available in the UK without too much hassle and in the same £3-5K price range.

Is there anywhere I can try one or even better several of the systems in the UK?

 

[Mascot]

It was 10% off in the UK last week but I missed it as it 2 days before I got paid .

Now it’s just a waiting game, I’ll probably pick it up in a November Black Friday sale because I can’t bring myself to pay £230 more! I suspect that will also be the best time in the U.S too.

Just buy it from Amazon then phone them up to request a UK kettle plug (mine came with a Euro one) and they'll refund you 10% of the total purchase price.
Yeah, I know - crazy.
YMMV.

Edit: lol, £3.5k at Amazon right now. Scratch that idea.

 

[Mascot]

£1899.99 at Overclockers right now.
B-Grade, whatever that means.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/b-gr...-motion-platform-v3-nlr-m001v3-bg-00m-nr.html

Edit: Below is the original description for this product, any reference to warranty is to be ignored. Warranty for this item is 90 days as with all B Grade items.

B Grade items may have been used, have damaged packaging, missing accessories or a combination of these.

Some items may have scuff marks or slight scratches but should otherwise be an operable product.

Might be worth phoning them up to get specific details. It might just be a damaged box.

These things seem to be as rare as hen's teeth right now.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

£1899.99 at Overclockers right now.
B-Grade, whatever that means.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/b-gr...-motion-platform-v3-nlr-m001v3-bg-00m-nr.html

Edit: Below is the original description for this product, any reference to warranty is to be ignored. Warranty for this item is 90 days as with all B Grade items.

B Grade items may have been used, have damaged packaging, missing accessories or a combination of these.

Some items may have scuff marks or slight scratches but should otherwise be an operable product.

Might be worth phoning them up to get specific details. It might just be a damaged box.

These things seem to be as rare as hen's teeth right now.

90 days warranty though, I think I’d rather spend an extra £400 for piece of mind on something at this price. In 2 weeks I could buy it outright if I wanted anyway but it’s too hot to drive right now for any length of time so I’ll just be patient and wait.

 

[HoiHman]

Hardware failure on my NLMv3 today.

It started feeling odd during braking. I paused the game and moved the sliders of the motors in the platform manager control panel.

Then the left side stopped reacting completely and the seat has fallen down to the left. I can still hear the motor running but the lever of the left motor has come loose.

Filled in a support request at NLM waiting for their response, so no more racing this weekend.

 

[Steve D]

Are you able to use the level calibration tool to move the platform left, right, front and back even if it’s still pitched heavily to the left? Or do you think something has snapped or broken inside?

If the former then it could be down to one of the two internal optical sensors, which sit below the cams, being covered by dust, fluff, gunk etc.

Had the exact same issue (seat pitched heavily to one side and stayed there) after I had spray lubricated the various external pivot points / ball joints and a little overspray crept inside the unit, despite me covering access points.

A quick clean up of the affected sensor with a cotton bud soaked in white spirit and all was good again. Job takes about 5 minutes and very simple to do but you will need to remove your seat to be able to easily remove the top inspection panel. Suggest also removing the four screws on top which hold the internal fan in place so you avoid stretching the fan wiring when removing the panel. Also the tiny screws holding the cover in place, on top and to the front are soft so be careful not to round them off. (I replaced mine with better quality ones)

Best you drop tech support a line though because to get inside the unit you might have to break the silver warranty sticker, which covers a mounting screw you need to remove. At least there was on mine. So probably an idea to get their approval if still in warranty. They had no issues me doing this and sorting the problem myself.

For info, I now inspect and clean the sensors every few months as preventative maintenance.

Hopefully a very simple fix for you and nothing broken.

If you need any help in terms of “how to” feel free to drop me a line.

 

[anton_Chez]

I had the same problem Steve. I make sure now when I lube the arms and ball joints that I cover every bit of access into the casing. I then wipe underneath any part that may drip inside once I'm done spraying. The sensors seem to be very sensitive.

 

[HoiHman]

Thanks Steve for the guide to open up the unit.

The left lever of the motor that goes into the housing is loose.

I suspect the bolt connecting it to the motor may have come loose. It's probably possible to do a DIY fix if they allow me to open up the unit myself without voiding my warranty.

I already requested that this morning, but have to wait for an answer (which will probably be somewhere in the beginning of next week)

 

[Mascot]

I had the same problem Steve. I make sure now when I lube the arms and ball joints that I cover every bit of access into the casing. I then wipe underneath any part that may drip inside once I'm done spraying. The sensors seem to be very sensitive.

I wasn't aware that we were supposed to lube anything. Is there a maintenance guide that I've overlooked?

 

[HoiHman]

I wasn't aware that we were supposed to lube anything. Is there a maintenance guide that I've overlooked?

You have to lube the two flexible rod ends at the front regularly with WD40. Was in the manual somewhere i believe.

 

[Mascot]

You have to lube the two flexible rod ends at the front regularly with WD40. Was in the manual somewhere i believe.

That's odd, WD-40 is not a lube, it's a water displacer. In fact, it can have the opposite effect to a lube. Are you sure they recommend WD-40 and not something like GT-85?

 

[Steve D]

That's odd, WD-40 is not a lube, it's a water displacer. In fact, it can have the opposite effect to a lube. Are you sure they recommend WD-40 and not something like GT-85?

I use WD-40 silicone lubricant.

It doesn't attract dust and also reduced the very little noise that the NLM generated.

 

[anton_Chez]

WD-40 is the brand, not the product. I just looked at my wet PTFE lube and it's actually the WD-40 brand. I don't think I even realised. I have lithium grease spray and also the PTFE lube. The wet PTFE can slide into places you don't want it to, so it's best to wipe clean the surrounding parts you don't want affected.

 

[Mascot]

I use WD-40 silicone lubricant.
It doesn't attract dust and also reduced the very little noise that the NLM generated.

WD-40 is the brand, not the product. I just looked at my wet PTFE lube and it's actually the WD-40 brand. I don't think I even realised. I have lithium grease spray and also the PTFE lube. The wet PTFE can slide into places you don't want it to, so it's best to wipe clean the surrounding parts you don't want affected.

Cool, that's a relief. I thought it worth mentioning though because a lot of people use vanilla WD-40 as a lubricant, not realising they might be doing more harm than good. I'm a mountain biker and know of several people that have knackered £1000+ groupsets by 'lubing' them with WD-40.

I'll take a look at lubing my pivots today, so thanks for the heads-up that I should be doing this, and about protecting the sensors. I guess a good way would be to wrap an old teeshirt around everything, just leaving the joints that need lubing exposed.

@HoiHman what WD-40 variant are you using?

 

[Mascot]

I just dug my manual out to check the maintenance section and one of the lubricants they recommend is just listed as 'WD-40'. I'm amazed. I personally wouldn't use that. I just carefully did my joints with GT-85 (which contains PTFE) using the pipe nozzle with everything else wrapped in a clean rag, but it wasn't easy with the NLv3 sunk so low in my P1.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

I just dug my manual out to check the maintenance section and one of the lubricants they recommend is just listed as 'WD-40'. I'm amazed. I personally wouldn't use that. I just carefully did my joints with GT-85 (which contains PTFE) using the pipe nozzle with everything else wrapped in a clean rag, but it wasn't easy with the NLv3 sunk so low in my P1.

I always thought GT-85 was just a water/grease displacer like GT-40 and lubed my bicycle chain afterwards, it’s a bit too light to be a long lasting lubcricant either way on a bike.

The best lubricant suggested for Heusinkveld gear, olive oil, I can’t honestly say it works a treat. My pedals and handbrake had a little squeak and/or scratchiness to the action OOTB with light use, a little olive oil on the shafts and they are smooth as butter and perfectly silent.

 

[Mascot]

I always thought GT-85 was just a water/grease displacer like GT-40 and lubed my bicycle chain afterwards, it’s a bit too light to be a long lasting lubcricant either way on a bike.

The best lubricant suggested for Heusinkveld gear, olive oil, I can’t honestly say it works a treat. My pedals and handbrake had a little squeak and/or scratchiness to the action OOTB with light use, a little olive oil on the shafts and they are smooth as butter and perfectly silent.

Yeah, GT-85 wouldn't have been my obvious choice but the other 'lubes' NL list in the maintenance instructions are all very light. It's definitely a better choice than the WD-40 they list so I figured it'll be OK. Like you I tend to use GT-85 as a pre-lube prep after washing my bike to expel water from the drivetrain before a proper lubing, or just as a quick spray between clean, dry rides if a full re-lube wasn't necessary. I think next time I lube the NLv3 joints I'll use a drop of a light summer synthetic bike lube. It'll be longer lasting but also be cleaner and easier to apply from the bottle than using a spray nozzle on my sunken setup.

I must say I'd never, NEVER, use an organic substance like olive oil to lube anything as it has danger of literally cooking under friction heat. It should be OK on that front for the uses you describe but being vegetable-based it will still literally rot and break down over time. Any reason you didn't use a synthetic engine oil instead of olive oil? I guess they suggest olive oil because it's something most people have in their kitchens.

 

[Vetie]

Hardware failure on my NLMv3 today.

It started feeling odd during braking. I paused the game and moved the sliders of the motors in the platform manager control panel.

Then the left side stopped reacting completely and the seat has fallen down to the left. I can still hear the motor running but the lever of the left motor has come loose.

Filled in a support request at NLM waiting for their response, so no more racing this weekend.

Please keep us updated on the manufacture response and what they will allow you to do.
Thanks

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Yeah, GT-85 wouldn't have been my obvious choice but the other 'lubes' NL list in the maintenance instructions are all very light. It's definitely a better choice than the WD-40 they list so I figured it'll be OK. Like you I tend to use GT-85 as a pre-lube prep after washing my bike to expel water from the drivetrain before a proper lubing, or just as a quick spray between clean, dry rides if a full re-lube wasn't necessary. I think next time I lube the NLv3 joints I'll use a drop of a light summer synthetic bike lube. It'll be longer lasting but also be cleaner and easier to apply from the bottle than using a spray nozzle on my sunken setup.

I must say I'd never, NEVER, use an organic substance like olive oil to lube anything.as it has danger of literally cooking under friction heat. It should be OK on that front in the uses you describe but being vegetable-based it will still literally rot and break down over time. Any reason you didn't use a synthetic engine oil instead of olive oil? I guess they suggest olive oil because it's something most people have in their kitchens.

They actually specifically say not to use any synthetic lubes as it damages the rubbers they use. White grease is one of their recommendations but I always find that a bit messy and it’s easier to apply the olive oil and have it lubricate the parts of the shaft you can’t get to.

I’d be very surprised if normal pedal action caused any build up of heat and I suspect it will require reapplication before any rotting occurs and I trust they’ll repair if that did happen.

 

[Mascot]

They actually specifically say not to use any synthetic lubes as it damages the rubbers they use. White grease is one of their recommendations but I always find that a bit messy and it’s easier to apply the olive oil and have it lubricate the parts of the shaft you can’t get to.

I’d be very surprised if normal pedal action caused any build up of heat and I suspect it will require reapplication before any rotting occurs and I trust they’ll repair if that did happen.

Yeah, like I said earlier, the uses you describe are unlikely to build up enough heat to cause a problem but I'm still surprised that Heusinkveld recommend putting food on their products to lubricate them..!
It seems olive oil will last about two years (sealed in a cool, dry place) before starting to significantly degrade, so probably a little quicker in a shifter or handbrake, and a lot quicker in direct sunlight.

 

[Mascot]

I forgot to power up my NLv3 after lubing the joints yesterday and drove away before realising. When braking for the first corner there was a real sensation that I was leaning back in my seat due to the lack of actual forward pitch. What a weird feeling that was..!

I carried on driving with it powered off for a while and it gave me an even deeper appreciation for what the NLv3 adds to the driving experience. Everything felt really flat and static without it, which I guess was to be totally expected but still felt odd.

Man, how the hell did I ever used to race on a 2D screen in a fixed seat, and still enjoy it?