DYI G-Seat

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Michal Burisin, Oct 13, 2018 at 22:54.

  1. Michal Burisin

    Michal Burisin

    So I finally got to the point, where I can start working on the G-Seat.

    Here is my latest progress with the rig in general.

    What's important for G-Seat part of the project is tactile installation on the seat, which consists of 3 BK Concert + 1 TST 239, so it's pretty powerful tactile, so I must make sure nothing rattles, this will be challenge as there will be many moving parts.



    I'm using Kirkey Aluminium Seat, link is here.

    I have 17'' version and it fits me like a glove :) I'm 168 cm, around 66 kg, quite thin with broader shoulders and it's so so, especially with the G-Seat paddles. I'm striving to take around 2,5 cm of space from the internal volume with paddles.

    Here is the parts overview:

    A) Bottom paddles - with big space between them - I don't want to simulate heave, maybe just a little, but it's intended mainly as pressure from the sides.


    B) Main back paddles - narrower gap between to allow for some pressure during acceleration.

    C) Additional back paddles for sides - just for thin guys, I made them removable to allow someone with bigger butt to fit in there :)

    I spent day and half measuring etc., here are some images of progress:



    Now when I printed it on A3:


    And with additional paddle from the side:


    I'm really happy it worked so well! I just have to correct 2 lines where the plate would be bent and that's it! I don't need to tweak the shape any more, it fits perfectly!

    I will be probably using 4x ASME-04A servos for 4 paddles and 2 for seat belt tensioner.


    The servos for bottom paddles will be located on red profiles like pictured below, on these profiles will be also servos for seatbelt fastener.

    Servos for back paddles will be mounted to the seat.


    The servos axles are goint to be extended by this connection - 8 mm to 12 mm, for 12 mm shafts I use aluminium hollow shaft with 2 mm thick wall.


    The shaft will be like 0,5 m long, so at the end, it will be fixed in ball bearing with housing connected to the seat to prevent shaft bending.


    Along the way there are going to be 2 points on each shaft with fixed clamp.

    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018 at 23:28
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  2. Michal Burisin

    Michal Burisin

    At each clamp, there will be 2 connecting rods, these are just M4 so I want to be on the safe side.

    Yes, I went with gold, will be nice addition to BK Concert gold stickers and Fanatec DD clamp :)

    I still need to figure out servo arms, if I won't find anything, I will either 3D print or will make it from aluminium.

    I will need to cut holes to the seat to allow for movement of the rods, but I hope it shouldnt be necessary for the holes to be big. I don't want to connect main attachment profiles between each other to keep L / R tactile separation as clear as possible. I hope I won't break the seat in two pieces with additional holes cut out :)

    I'm planning to use same approach for back paddles.

    I have ordered couple of things. Now I'm waiting for a precise protractor to measure the angles for bending and then I will put it to manufacturing. In the meantime I will order rest of the stuff. I already have 2 servos, so I'll test their strength / speed on seat belt tensioner.

    For that, I will be using bowden approach.

    For guiding seatbelts, I will be using linear prismatic rails and carts.




    It wasn't cheap and it sure isn't light but it's totally tactile proof :).

    These rails will be between vibration mounts already mounted as you can see here:


    I didn't like metal sound with carts moving that was transferring to the seat, I got some vibration mounts leftovers so I used them here :)

    So this it, sorry for links for parts to my local distributors, shouldn't be hard to find internationally though :) I gotta get back to it :sneaky:
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018 at 23:27
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  3. Michal Burisin

    Michal Burisin

    I made the paddles close to size of the orignal ones, so it should be possible to fit the cover over the top of the seat, but the side compartments of the seat cover should fit over the paddles nicely, so it will look nice and there won't be no need for some ugly cover :) I think it will work perfectly :)


    I need now to find some tailor to make the holes bigger for the seatbelt fastener, but I hope it shouldn't be problem :)

    I will use SimTools for running the servos, I will need to do some custom coding for this G-Seat project, as I haven't found anything suitable, this will be also big challange, but I hope it won't be such problem in the end :)

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018 at 23:30
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  4. Buster

    Staff Premium

    Please keep us updated :thumbsup: ..loved reading your post and looking at the pics ..superb work my friend :thumbsup:
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  5. Michal Burisin

    Michal Burisin

    For mounting paddles to the seat I recommend these.
    Super sturdy and no wobble at all, it's tactile proof :)

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  6. Mascot

    Card-carrying mod whore Premium

    Wow, what an incredible DIY project - I'm in awe!
    Brilliant stuff, please keep us updated.
  7. Michal Burisin

    Michal Burisin

    I have been busy today with seat attachment profiles.

    I made new inward side profiles to bear servos for G-Seat - these are on the right side of the photo with 4 holes. I tried to make servo brackets, but it would be awful work. I will 3D print them.


    Anyone have suggestion for 3D printer? I have been looking at Prusa i3 MK3 which looks quite good. I have no experience with 3D printing, but I hope it won't be rocket science :)

    These are side support profiles.


    Here's the result.




    The side supporting profiles are going to bear side paddles. It will have another bridging profile like this.


    On this bridging profile, there will be hinge like this (red) with paddle (green).


    With design like this, this G-Seat will be basically completely in contact with body and not just some limited regions.

    These side paddles will be responding just to lateral forces, whereas back and bottom paddles will respond to mix of acceleration and lateral forces.

    I will firstly do just bottom and back paddles and then I will see if it's worth the trouble adding additional paddles for sides, but I think it could work very well, let's see :)

    The side supports also stiffen the seat. When I was lifting myself from the seat with full force, it was bending, so this is another reason why I did it.

    Attached Files:

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  8. Michal Burisin

    Michal Burisin

    I have done little bit of tweaking to the shape and I also corrected lines along which paddles will be bent:


    On the right side, there is overlay before / after. With side paddles I can push the size very close to the limits, as I can move it as necessary. On the main paddles, I'm leaving some margin for error.

    Tomorrow I will do another print to verify it and I will have protractor so I will measure all the angles.

    I would have question for current G-Seat users,


    Should I extend the back paddle more down to the butt? All g-seat projects I have seen has paddles above the butt it seems. Does it have a reason and should I do the same or it could beneficial to have the paddles all the way down.

    Only reason I figured, it could be because the butt wouldn't move, and it would overstress the servos and limited the felt effect, any ideas?

    Only user of GS-4 I know here is @HoiHman, possible some others?

  9. HoiHman


    Awesome project Michal:thumbsup:

    I think if you make the panel all the way down there will be too much stress on your lower back.
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