Anyone here got the recent OSW SW7C+, SW10C+, SW12C+ ?

[Cosimo]

These motors are rated at 7/10/12Nm peak torque. I'm wondering if that's too little, or where's the sweet spot. If you got one of those, leave a comment below. Thanks,

 

[Krassi Petrov]

Huh, that's pretty convenient! So it works without the keyway, i'm assuming the little square indent on the 3d print slots into the keyway cutout. I have actually received my keyway from Ollie, i requested it and it was included, but i guess i won't need it. I'm using 8nm with my sw10c+ so good to know it will hold up.

This is exactly what i've been looking for, if i ever get around to buying a formula style rim i'll pick up a couple of these.

Yes, the square indent seen in the pics is like the 3d printed keyway

 

[jordan199423]

Loving my SW12C so far however, the universal mount flexes a lot! Worse than the steering shaft on my old CSL elite. I can just hang my arms on the rim and I can see it flex! If I force it to flex, it moves horrendously. I thought about welding a 45 degree bracket from the top to the bottom piece like other mige mounts but that would be a little tricky since there wouldn’t be much room to work with. Has anyone done anything and had success?

 

[Krassi Petrov]

Loving my SW12C so far however, the universal mount flexes a lot! Worse than the steering shaft on my old CSL elite. I can just hang my arms on the rim and I can see it flex! If I force it to flex, it moves horrendously. I thought about welding a 45 degree bracket from the top to the bottom piece like other mige mounts but that would be a little tricky since there wouldn’t be much room to work with. Has anyone done anything and had success?

Hmmm, surprised bu that...you metal brackets from Simplicity which mount the motor to the rig are flexing??? If you bolt them good - they gotta be rock solid...I will check later - in general I dont try flexing, because I use 3d printed QR and the flex will in it with crack LoL - but never saw flex and to try to bolt tight or to add something support!

 

[jordan199423]

Hmmm, surprised bu that...you metal brackets from Simplicity which mount the motor to the rig are flexing??? If you bolt them good - they gotta be rock solid...I will check later - in general I dont try flexing, because I use 3d printed QR and the flex will in it with crack LoL - but never saw flex and to try to bolt tight or to add something support!

It’s mounted to my simetik k2 and the rig itself is rock solid. I’ve got 6 bolts holding the bottom plate to the simetik and the 3 supplied bolts holding the upper part that attaches to the motor to the bottom plate. They are all as tight as they can be. I believe it’s just a design flaw. If I forcefully move it up or down It moves about a half inch total up and down. It doesn’t move left or right at all.

 

[Edr]

It’s mounted to my simetik k2 and the rig itself is rock solid. I’ve got 6 bolts holding the bottom plate to the simetik and the 3 supplied bolts holding the upper part that attaches to the motor to the bottom plate. They are all as tight as they can be. I believe it’s just a design flaw. If I forcefully move it up or down It moves about a half inch total up and down. It doesn’t move left or right at all.

There are more people who have complained about this.

Personally I can not imagine how the solid bracket could flex....

Could you upload a video ?

 

[Krassi Petrov]

It’s mounted to my simetik k2 and the rig itself is rock solid. I’ve got 6 bolts holding the bottom plate to the simetik and the 3 supplied bolts holding the upper part that attaches to the motor to the bottom plate. They are all as tight as they can be. I believe it’s just a design flaw. If I forcefully move it up or down It moves about a half inch total up and down. It doesn’t move left or right at all.

Half an inch flex?? This is insane...btw I tried mine and to preved braking the QR I grabbed the motor with 2 hands and tried to shake it ...you know the motor levitates in the air mounted on the front only , so it will be easy to flex it, but in mine case I cant see flex to the moment that entire wheel deck starting to flex.....in real use I cant see when I will force this with so much force, so for me the bracked is rock solid.
Ofcourse everything can flex when have bolts and joints, the point is that mine dont flex from normal use and as yours move half an inch I really think you bolted it wrong...please show pics

 

[jordan199423]

Half an inch flex?? This is insane...btw I tried mine and to preved braking the QR I grabbed the motor with 2 hands and tried to shake it ...you know the motor levitates in the air mounted on the front only , so it will be easy to flex it, but in mine case I cant see flex to the moment that entire wheel deck starting to flex.....in real use I cant see when I will force this with so much force, so for me the bracked is rock solid.
Ofcourse everything can flex when have bolts and joints, the point is that mine dont flex from normal use and as yours move half an inch I really think you bolted it wrong...please show pics

I will post a video when I get home today. If I force it up and down the distance between the furthest point it goes up and the furthest point down on the back of the motor is probably around a half inch and if I force as hard as I can, maybe even more. In use I don’t notice it most of the time when using but due to the mount having this design flaw I do feel as though I’m missing some FFB effects getting lost in my rig. Only the most extreme forces though... like when going off track or over bumps at Sebring on iRacing. If you just think about how that 1/4 inch thick plate on the front of the motor is the only thing holding the entire motor levitating in the air it’s pretty easy to bend the contact point of the top and bottom plates. I can assure you it is mounted correctly. I will end up fixing it myself just wondered if anyone else has found a easier remedy than welding 45 degree brackets on the sides.

 

[Krassi Petrov]

I will post a video when I get home today. If I force it up and down the distance between the furthest point it goes up and the furthest point down on the back of the motor is probably around a half inch and if I force as hard as I can, maybe even more. In use I don’t notice it most of the time when using but due to the mount having this design flaw I do feel as though I’m missing some FFB effects getting lost in my rig. Only the most extreme forces though... like when going off track or over bumps at Sebring on iRacing. If you just think about how that 1/4 inch thick plate on the front of the motor is the only thing holding the entire motor levitating in the air it’s pretty easy to bend the contact point of the top and bottom plates. I can assure you it is mounted correctly. I will end up fixing it myself just wondered if anyone else has found a easier remedy than welding 45 degree brackets on the sides.

My mother is the best Welder here in Bulgaria on black welding, so if I have even 0.1% concerns mine will be welded...or even done from more thick metal...even with my first firmware which was boosted as hell and the forces are stronger - I didnt saw flex...
Basicaly if you feel flex here...then using regular wheel like TS-PC or CSW will break the shaft in few minutes in your hands....

 

[Krassi Petrov]

Btw guys if you use often FB like me you can join the group for Simplicity DD Compact wheels:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/SimplicityDD/

 

[jordan199423]

Here is the video. You can see my rig flex a little when pushing upwards but when pulling down there is minimal flex on the rig. You can see the mount flexing. Ignore the cables touching the motor, I moved them so you could see.

 

[Krassi Petrov]

This is a huge play - no doubt...mine is rock solid compared to that...dunno what can be the problem, one thing is that the extension of the hub is working like leverage, but that play realy amazed me...it is like the brackets are made from cheese

 

[ykap1]

Here is the video. You can see my rig flex a little when pushing upwards but when pulling down there is minimal flex on the rig. You can see the mount flexing. Ignore the cables touching the motor, I moved them so you could see.

Mine was similar, i just removed the 'face' plate from the bottom "L" bracket part and mounted it direct to my 8020 crossbar. There is almost zero play from doing that. Had to move the crossbar higher, and also buy a wheel shaft extender How you avoid this with a simetik i dunno.

Realistically if you're grabbing the top of the rim and pulling it towards/away from yourself it will flex regardless since it's a plate bolted down. If it's a plate bolted to a "L" bracket, bolted to another wheel base plate then that's a lot of points of flex. I'm curious to see if there is more flex from the simplicity L brackets, or the simlabs L brackets. From memory the simplicity is 2 pieces, and simlabs 1 piece, but they're virtually identical.

I think the driving forces are not majorly affected by this flex, as they're working on a different plane. But you pay good money, and you have a strong af rig then ideally you shouldn't have any flex.

 

[Edr]

Way more flex than mine.
My guess is Ollies supplier sent him a batch of plates that were not manufactured/heat treated properly and are not stiff enough.......

 

[Krassi Petrov]

Way more flex than mine.
My guess is Ollies supplier sent him a batch of plates that were not manufactured/heat treated properly and are not stiff enough.......

I try to figure out what can be the problem - your suggestion is one of the best candidates The flex here is insane, if I had this flex - will do new brackets for sure!

 

[stevepeef]

Hi guy's. I want to upgrade my old G25 to a new wheel and this 10nm sim-plicity look pretty nice.
I have a few questions about it and the rims that I can connect to it, I don't know much about the brand or DD wheels in general so please excuse me if I ask a stupid question.

First of, when I read the pages here it seems that there is only 1 person running sim-plicity and he needs to do stuff to get new sims to work, does this scare others here? If he gets hurt or just want to do something else how will the next sim get support for this wheel when the firmware is closed source.

Second, when I look at this page https://sim-pli.city/products/sw10c-10nm-direct-drive-wheel I don't see a bottom part to the mount that I could attach to my rig, I do see it in the video above. Is it optional or does it come with the kit but just isn't listed or in the picture.

Then, about a rim, the cheapest rim with controls that I found is https://www.simracingcoach.com/en/contenido/volante-gt1/#formulario, will that attach to the sim-plicity DD base without any adapters? I would like a simpel round rim with flippers and a few buttons but don't need super fancy stuff.

I basically don't have a lot to spend and think that this might be a reachable DD solution but I don't feel 100% about the company behind it being 1 man (is this true) and wonder what wheels with pedals you guy's are using.

 

[Krassi Petrov]

Hi guy's. I want to upgrade my old G25 to a new wheel and this 10nm sim-plicity look pretty nice.
I have a few questions about it and the rims that I can connect to it, I don't know much about the brand or DD wheels in general so please excuse me if I ask a stupid question.

First of, when I read the pages here it seems that there is only 1 person running sim-plicity and he needs to do stuff to get new sims to work, does this scare others here? If he gets hurt or just want to do something else how will the next sim get support for this wheel when the firmware is closed source.

Second, when I look at this page https://sim-pli.city/products/sw10c-10nm-direct-drive-wheel I don't see a bottom part to the mount that I could attach to my rig, I do see it in the video above. Is it optional or does it come with the kit but just isn't listed or in the picture.

Then, about a rim, the cheapest rim with controls that I found is https://www.simracingcoach.com/en/contenido/volante-gt1/#formulario, will that attach to the sim-plicity DD base without any adapters? I would like a simpel round rim with flippers and a few buttons but don't need super fancy stuff.

I basically don't have a lot to spend and think that this might be a reachable DD solution but I don't feel 100% about the company behind it being 1 man (is this true) and wonder what wheels with pedals you guy's are using.

Hello,
alot of people use the Compact line wheels from Simplicity...in the FB group we are 16, but there are alot more...
As the Simplicity is doing its own brand of Wheels - it is normal the firmware to be made inhouse and not be made open source...
All future title will be made supported...and alot of titles are working even nothing been made for them.
For the mounting you receive in the package mounting bracked with all holes for major brand wheels and that means all legit rigs will support mounting.
For rims - you can bolt any 70mm wheel on the hub and tons of other options are available...

If you have other questions - ask!

 

[stevepeef]

Well, to be honest, it doesn't really matter how many people use the simplicity, if the company is just one guy and he is the only one with the code and something happens to him it is over for the wheel when it comes to new support, you have to hope nothing happens and he keeps doing what he's doing.

I know and understand why the code isn't open source but it's probably nowhere except for in his care, again, when something happens to him it's done for this brand and wheel as in future support.
I don't know this for a fact, if he has other people working for him that can continue the risk is smaller but I'm a little hesitant to buy something like this from a company with just a single person working there.

 

[Krassi Petrov]

Well, to be honest, it doesn't really matter how many people use the simplicity, if the company is just one guy and he is the only one with the code and something happens to him it is over for the wheel when it comes to new support, you have to hope nothing happens and he keeps doing what he's doing.

I know and understand why the code isn't open source but it's probably nowhere except for in his care, again, when something happens to him it's done for this brand and wheel as in future support.
I don't know this for a fact, if he has other people working for him that can continue the risk is smaller but I'm a little hesitant to buy something like this from a company with just a single person working there.

Hello,
Simplicity is not one guy...the fact that the owner stand with his name is, because the name is proven and he is one of the Pioneers ind DD wheels - back from the days that only DIY kits was for sale from hima nd few other guys... The company have few employees at least and trust if something happens to him he had in mind plan B.... These concerns can be the same for any company if something happens to the CEO/Owner...

 

[stevepeef]

Like I said, I don't know it is just one guy but it appeared to be the case as everybody only talks about him.
And comparing this to any other CEO of a company that writes software is nonsense, normally the source code is stored in escrow so that it can be reached and used when something happens to the company.

I really do like the wheel and I am seriously considering purchasing one, I just want to get a better feel for the company I am dealing with, if there are multiple employees and he has this type of stuff sorted so we don't all depend on him I might just move forward.

Do you recommend the 10nm DD wheel or is the 7nm strong enough, I don't need absurd power, if it's about as strong as a midrange fanatec that is fine, I want the fidelity of a DD wheel.

 

[super_gt]

As the Simplicity is doing its own brand of Wheels

Wireless?