Fanatec | Official Support Thread

Wido Rossen · Feb 7, 2008

Looks pretty neat this wheel.....and it`s wireless.

Andrew Pienaar · Dec 27, 2014

M6 Hex bolts no longer than 20mm if i can remember

Yuri · Jan 25, 2015

Ok here's the deal. As I posted on here before at the end of last year my force feedback motor broke. I got a new one sent and placed it in and it worked perfectly.. untill a couple of weeks ago now. It feels like the exact same problem I had before, it feels awefull so I sent another mail to Fanatec, they asked for another e-mail so I provided it too.
The response was that it 'needed to wear in' and after a while 'it will get rid of the noise'.
Seems weird to me, as it worked perfectly fine when I got it, and it feels an awefull lot like it did the first time it broke. I also never heard of an electric motor that needs to wear in before it works. It's taking ages for them to reply now (over a week) and I'm getting a feeling they're waiting untill the warranty runs out, which is in 2.5 months.

Any ideas on what to do? I can still drive but the ffb feels like I'm on gravel when I'm on the smoothest piece of tarmac.

Brian McManus · Jan 25, 2015

I would get back to fanatec again.
If it takes more a day for a reply send them a reminder to get back to you.
You shouldn't be having the problem.

Yuri · Jan 25, 2015

It's been over a month now, it takes long every time, and I've already sent reminders I don't want to keep pushing and sending mails every day.
Thanks for the feedback btw

Giovanni Lazzari · Jan 26, 2015

Id suggest you to send a PM using their facebook page. A friend of mine was waiting about a a week to get any reply from them, as soon as he sent a PM, they got back to him. I believe they might be pretty busy lately.

Yuri · Jan 28, 2015

Giovanni Lazzari said:
Id suggest you to send a PM using their facebook page. A friend of mine was waiting about a a week to get any reply from them, as soon as he sent a PM, they got back to him. I believe they might be pretty busy lately.

Thanks for the tip, they replied within a couple of hours

Kurt Vanhee · Feb 20, 2015

Notice 2day that i could move my F1 wheel left and right abit.
Also able to lift it up and down a bit.
Having the base just over a week i took off the wheel and saw that screws (dunno the exact word) inside the lock were loose. Tightened them back and it is all fixed again.

Someone who experienced this too?
Is this caused by the rumble and effect of the wheel?

Frederic Schornstein · Feb 20, 2015

Kurt Vanhee said:
Notice 2day that i could move my F1 wheel left and right abit.
Also able to lift it up and down a bit.
Having the base just over a week i took off the wheel and saw that screws (dunno the exact word) inside the lock were loose. Tightened them back and it is all fixed again.

Someone who experienced this too?
Is this caused by the rumble and effect of the wheel?

A lot of users reported that in a german sim forum, so it is pretty common.

Bert van Jaarsveldt · Feb 20, 2015

Yep pretty common fault, and it should be perfect after tightning the screws. Another problem is the rubber o-ring on the shaft that starts looking the worst for wear from swapping steering wheels. Had to replace mine after about a month.

zAmboni · Mar 28, 2015

Hey all.

I have had a CSR wheel for about a year (my first actually wheel for sims)....and I really know nothing about maintenance of a wheel, and I am not really sure what to actually look for when things are going bad (never had anything to compare it to!). I have never had it open to look at anything, but I feel like it needs to have some maintenance and/or my FFB motors may be going bad.

Symptoms: There seems to be a bit of play in the wheel (pulling on the edges but not turning the wheel). also tonight I actually downloaded the wheelcheck program and gave it a whirl. For the first few steps, the wheel did not rotate. When it started to rotate, the wheel did not go exactly back to center, and when the program finished, it never did go a complete rotation of the wheel ...maybe went through 160 degrees.

It is just something that needs to be tightened do ya think or could the FFB motor(s) be going bad? Any good links to sites that may give a walkthrough on tearing a CRS apart and what to look for and fix?

Thanks!

zAmboni · Mar 28, 2015

I decided to open up the CSR. The wobbliness was due to the screws attaching to the shaft being loose. Tightened them up. I looked at the innards and the one belt going to the shaft was nice and snug. The belt on the FFB motor was not quite as snug, but the belt seemed to be firmly seated.

After I put things back together, I tried playing around with wheelcheck again, and I don't fully understand the program. Mainly because the settings on the wheel affect the output of the program. I had the drift setting at 2 and it would peak out at around 160 degrees of deflection. If I turn the drift setting off it would only go through 100 degrees. I'm not sure if this is expected or if the wheel should be able to go through the whole 450 degrees during the test.

Is there a setting in wheelcheck that I should change or is my FFB motor going bad?

Andy Thompson · Apr 8, 2015

Does anyone know why there is currently a 2 month wait for the Clubsport Pedals?

Blkout · Apr 9, 2015

Andy Thompson said:
Does anyone know why there is currently a 2 month wait for the Clubsport Pedals?

Fanatec routinely has long delays on most of their products. That being said, Thrustmaster is going through the same issue with their add-on pedals.

Brandon Wright · Apr 14, 2015

I've searched and didn't find any info. I have a set of CSR Elite pedals hooked up to the PC, they're just over a year old. Had been working fine but now when I go to the track (Assetto Corsa mostly, and R3E) the pedals don't work. I have to unplug the usb and plug it back in (sometimes several times) and then they'll work fine. I've tried different usb ports and cables, nothing fixes the problem. Up until about 4-6 weeks ago they had been working fine and nothing has changed on my setup.

Anyone have any idea what could be going on?

Kjell Eilertsen · Apr 14, 2015

Brandon Wright said:
I've searched and didn't find any info. I have a set of CSR Elite pedals hooked up to the PC, they're just over a year old. Had been working fine but now when I go to the track (Assetto Corsa mostly, and R3E) the pedals don't work. I have to unplug the usb and plug it back in (sometimes several times) and then they'll work fine. I've tried different usb ports and cables, nothing fixes the problem. Up until about 4-6 weeks ago they had been working fine and nothing has changed on my setup.

Anyone have any idea what could be going on?

I've had a similar problem which I solved by moving some other USB device to another port and using the pedals on the very first USB port on my mobo, it might be a conflict with some other USB device.
Also make sure you connect them to the back of your PC rather than in the front ports, the front ports usually does not provide as much power as the back ones. Alternativelly, if you have to use the front ports, use a powered USB hub.

Brandon Wright · Apr 14, 2015

Kjell Eilertsen said:
I've had a similar problem which I solved by moving some other USB device to another port and using the pedals on the very first USB port on my mobo, it might be a conflict with some other USB device.
Also make sure you connect them to the back of your PC rather than in the front ports, the front ports usually does not provide as much power as the back ones. Alternativelly, if you have to use the front ports, use a powered USB hub.

I did notice this problem seemed to develop when I got the TH8A shifter hooked up, so maybe there's a conflict? I only have 4 usb ports on the back of the PC, two up front. Only 2 of my usb ports are 2.0 (both on the back) and Thurstmaster recommends plugging their products into 2.0 ports so the T300 and TH8A are plugged into those. The CSR Elite's and my mouse are plugged into the remaining usb ports on the back, so I'm not sure I have any other combinations I can try.

Kjell Eilertsen · Apr 14, 2015

Just try swapping them around, while Thrustmaster recommends using 2.0 ports that's just a way for them to keep their backs free of as many potential sources of errors as possible.
I used my T300 on a USB 3.0 port with no issues what so ever, I did however have issues with my CSR Elites as mentioned. In my case it conflicts with both my Logitech joystick and the Microsoft Xbox 360 wireless dongle, if I connect those to the front ports of my PC however everything works nicely.

Brandon Wright · Apr 14, 2015

Kjell Eilertsen said:
Just try swapping them around, while Thrustmaster recommends using 2.0 ports that's just a way for them to keep their backs free of as many potential sources of errors as possible.
I used my T300 on a USB 3.0 port with no issues what so ever, I did however have issues with my CSR Elites as mentioned. In my case it conflicts with both my Logitech joystick and the Microsoft Xbox 360 wireless dongle, if I connect those to the front ports of my PC however everything works nicely.

Thanks Kjell, I'll try moving things around again and see if it makes any difference.

Blkout · Apr 14, 2015

Most USB ports are flaky, 2.0 or 3.0. That being said, my Thrustmaster wheels work just fine on a USB 3.0 port but my Fanatec products will not.

Brandon Wright · Apr 14, 2015

Blkout said:
Most USB ports are flaky, 2.0 or 3.0. That being said, my Thrustmaster wheels work just fine on a USB 3.0 port but my Fanatec products will not.

Interesting. My TM products are in 2.0 and my Fanatec is in a 3.0. I'm sure I've tried changing them around but I'll give it another go tonight and see if it fixes the problem. I'm hoping it's something simple like this and I won't have to buy any new hardware, though I am a bit tempted by the new TM pedals.